Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chrysler 300M



  • OK. My past experience has been that once you got the car running, you didn't really need the battery since the alternator keeps the car going. A dead battery wasn't a big deal if you could get a jump start. It is starting to sound as if there are new rules in play. Has something else changed in the design of cars in the last few years?
  • psterpster Posts: 293
    Scott, that is exactly whay I thought and the reason the Motorist Assist guy said my alternator had to be bad. I actually had the car towed to a Toyota dealer in a rainstorm. The dealer called the next morning and said the only thing wrong with the car was adead battery. I specifically asked them to test the alternator and he said it was in perfect order with good output. New battery and car has run fine since. I still can't figure out why the car just went blink dead at 70 mph. It scared the ^@%$@ out of me.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Did I see the wrong picture on that web page? What I saw was another butt ugly cross between an Aztek [of Waste Management Trash truck fame] and a "Family Queen Truckster" of Vacation, the movie, fame. Or maybe it just looks like the old Taurus station wagons of a few years back. I was hoping to see a 300N in the flesh. Did I get the wrong picture? Another DC dog. Well, it made me "woof."
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    No, that's the sports tourer wagon of the LX-platform, that we've all read about, in addition to the 300N and the Concorde & Intrepid replacements. It's low, muscular, and powerful looking, and has very clean, uncluttered, smooth-flowing lines. And, this is a picture of just the wagon, from far away, and in steel blue. The 300N has a different front and rear, and is a sedan too boot. It's still to bad no one snapped a view of a new "N" though...

    I must say, the main appeal of the new LX's to me, is the Hemi V8. We were never impressed by our M's sluggish V6, but these last 7 months with a big, honking V8 have been nothing short of marvelous. It puts you back in the seat, and still gets very good gas mileage for it's size and performance. A highly styled, luxurious sedan, with terrific ride & handling (read: crisp & firm), a much stiffer structure (MB vaultlike), and that Hemi under the hood, and you have a winner. Now, if they only give it great performance, refinement (cut the road & wind noise), and don't strangle the Hemi's grunt (like the M's trans does to the 3.5)....
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    Actually the Stock (plane Jane) M is faster then most of the Chevy truck until you get over the 6L size V8's. If you are talking about the special then you will need to go to the big block Z71 to give it a run. Not bad for a 3.5L six with a less then steller transmission. Not to mention haveing to spend over 6K additional clams to do it.
  • My other Chrysler, a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan did the same thing. Only two years old, it just quit while my wife was driving it. She was able to get it restarted and limped home. Rather than pay to tow it, I went out and bought a $50 battery at the local discount parts store and dropped it in. Fired right up. It was due for a major maintenance cycle anyway so I drove it to the dealer and had them check the electrical system along with other work. They found nothing. It has run perfectly ever since.
  • You see Mopar batteries really are junk. All these batteries just all of a sudden quiting to function is rediculous. Change your battery before you get stranded. I had a similar experience with a Dodge Ram and Jeep Grand Cherokee. I changed the battery in the M to avoid a third experience.
  • rrmanrrman Posts: 21
    I had a five year Diehard die in six months in my New Yorker. Inconvenient, but totally "free" replacement.
    Another device that can give you the shutdown in traffic thrill is the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Around 110K my old New Yorker taught me that one. It usually restarted in nuetral. And would restart after "cooling" off. But I got it towed after waiting 15 minutes the last time. Started right up at the repair shop the next day but the trouble code told the tale. I wonder how common that is!
  • Help!!
    I have a 1999 300M with 40K. Both headlite lens have a fog on the outside, resembles overspray and some areas are still clear. I tried cleaning with tar remover and lacquer thinner in a small spot. It feels rough to the touch.
  • I still have the OEM in my 300M after 4 years and nearly 100,000 miles. Go figure. Hey Otto, you know anything about the wide variance in the performance of these OEM batteries?
  • Depending on how comfortable you'd feel doing this you could wet sand the rough spots with 1000 -> 1500 grit wet or dry sand paper to get the majority of it out. Then do a final polish with either a clear coat polishing compound, or something called Novus Plastic Polish.

    Novus isn't real easy to find but there are a number of places that carry it or you can get it from the manufacturer.

  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    I don't know , both factory batteries in my cars lasted at least 6+ years before I needed to replace them. Maybe all this aftermarket electrical equipment some of you guys have installed shortens the life of your battery.
  • uxca300muxca300m Posts: 155
    I don't care what you think. I wanted blue lights in my M. The pictures don't do them justice but they look great in person. Take a look at
  • psterpster Posts: 293
    My OEM starts fine, I have no complaints about it whatsoever. I'm just afraid at 3 years it's going to go dead on me. And a few of the posters are right, batteries no longer seem to give any warning they are about to "fail". No more slow deaths......
  • I have been lurking at this and other message boards since August 2001, just a few days after I picked up my '01 300M (premium stereo, moon roof, Champagne pearl metallic, charcoal interior, no PHG or lux). Over 1 year and 32k miles have passed and no issues so far. My obsession with my machine hasnt diminished in the slightest. My reluctance to post was based on not having any pictures to post until now. "" . More to come if Santa brings me a digital camera for Christmas. When I first visited some of the various web sites showing different modifications, I thought to myself "Why would anyone want to mess with perfection? These guys are nuts!" Since then, I have caught the bug. After looking at everyone elses cars, my vehicle seems incomplete by comparison without the Dual exhaust. I have already done a few minor mods; splash guards (I trimmed an inch off the bottom and painted to match the body), Filled and painted the license plate holes in the front grill, Hood light, Custom visor stickers and shaved letters off the doors. If an original idea comes to mind I will let you know. I would appreciate some feedback on the splash guards.. too much? leave em black? They do the job they are designed for, I am just a little unsure about how they look. Sorry for the long post. I just want to thank everyone (you know who you are, to many to list here) Who has a 300M webpage, posted on this message board, or has posted pictures. All of you have been an inspiration. I would also like to encourage other lurkers to chime in with or without pictures.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Well, I replaced the OEM battery this weekend. Had some 1/2 to 1 second delays before anything would happen when I would turn the key to start the car so I figured it might be wearing down at 53 months so I went for a Diehard. Almost blew my cool. I showed the mechanics that according to the book the battery could be removed without taking off the wheel and shroud, so when I come back from paying for the battery, they've got it up on the lift and the wheel and shroud taken off, as well as the stuff from the engine compartment. Took em 15 minutes to get the battery changed and 30 minutes to get the shroud back in, and I am not even sure they did that right, as the guy asked me how many clips are on the shroud. Like I would know. At least he listened when I said no more than 80 psi on the the torque wrench. I was gonna see about doing the inside of the wheel wells with Rhino truck bed spray stuff, but maybe that wouldn't be such a good idea if you have to get at stuff thru the wheel well shrouds. Interestingly, the labor to put it in cost a little more because the Sears computer rated the installation on the 300M as "difficult." I will now have to see if the hesitation has disappeared. It did not hesitate this am when I came to work.
  • I may be buying an M soon and am trying to get an endorsement from someone who has 75K plus miles. I see that Indydriver appears to have 100K. Is the love still there for those who have them at those miles ? Major issues,ie: transmission failures, engine/electronics etc. For the most part those with 30k miles on this group seem to love them. I am looking at either new 2002 or slightly used 02. thanks for the help
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    When is the latest date to order a 2003 LH? It's only a few months, right? The reason I'm asking is because I was just reading on a automotive production site that 2003 Sebring/Stratus orders were closed on 11/13, and Grand Cherokee orders are also closed and 2004's can be ordered at a dealer now, anywhere. I'm wondering why this is happening for so many models? With the LH's, it's because of the new LX cars late next year, but what else is Chrysler doing?

    Anyone know? Anyone here have a 2003 yet? I haven't seen any being purchased since they first arrived a few months ago, just sitting there collecting dust.
  • blondablonda Posts: 542
    What a coincidence....I haven't read this board in several days and come to fiind out you all are talking about changing out batterys. Mine was working fine, but figured 4 years for a 3-year battery was chancing it a little. Replaced mine yesterday. This was my 2nd purchase of a Costco brand battery -- they claim to be comperable to the Die Hard and have a 100 month warranty. Was happy with the last one so went for it again (only $43). My husband and I did a joint effort on the battery. Turned the wheel to the right and the shroud in the wheel well came off easily. Since I had the K&N charger we only had to remove the filter for easier access from the top. The hardest part was getting to the bracket screw towards the engine. After that it was very easy.

    BigMike5 - I almost took mine to Sears instead of doing it myself and getting the Die Hard. After hearing your story I'm glad I didn't. (did they charge extra for the install?) The owners manual does say to remove the air box and the shroud -- You really need to do both to get the the bracket. I guess they thought removing the wheel would be easier (!). The only thing changing the battery myself is now I have to take the old one somewhere for recycling.
  • blondablonda Posts: 542
    The flaps look nice. Were those the ones with the 300M logo? I have heard they are a little long. I know what you mean about the mods. I had added the dual exhaust, air charger and dash kit about a year ago. Though I was done. I finally decided last week to get the molded mud flaps -- I'm tired of cleaning the splash off the car and think they will look good as well.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Blonda-- Congrats on doing it yourself with hubby help. I don't have the tools to do it or the guts to try. Sears charged $79 for the Diehard Gold and $26 for the installation. I have only replaced one other in recent memory and that was on my wife's old Toronado. It quit just "zap" one day at a filling station, between stopping and going. I think the dealer got me about $80 for a new battery so I didn't feel too bad about the Diehard price. Least its got 3 years full replacment and 5 year pro-rated replacement. Were the OEM batteries rated for 5 years or 3? I just assumed 60 months, but maybe it was 36?
  • blondablonda Posts: 542
    The dealer told me the OEM batteries were 3-year only
  • I got the Mopar molded splash guards without the logo. Since I trimmed about an inch off they haven't dragged the ground like they did before. They definitely deflect any splash and gravel (my main concern). I was afraid that if I left them black they would stand out to much with my light colored paint, so I painted them myself. The end result is now they stand out more. On your Black 300m they should blend right in.
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    I still have my orginal battery (3yrs, 10 months) and it is showing signs of trouble. I have a lot of extra electronics and the HID's don't help any. I figure in a couple of months I will be looking for a new one.
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    Sorry if you got the disease from me. I know it can be very contagous. I hope you don't get (and miss all the fun) will soon.
    I like the idea of painting the outside part, but not the tire side. If my car wasn't lowered so much I would get the molded ones.
  • I have over 44k on my 00M and still love it. Lots of little issue though--got most covered under warranty---Its at the dealer's now getting a few issues resolved moving drivers seat on acceleration, bcm to fix light show problem, door lock actuator, flaking steering wheel, etc. The main thing is that the power train is usually dependable and I would think should easily make it to 100k and beyond.

    You're lucky in that the first owner took most of the depreciation hit. Buy it as cheap as possible and then add some nice mods like others have done.
  • 300Michael,
    You are definitely a carrier.
    I only painted the outside.. a couple of times actually, The rear ones kept dragging, and getting messed up.
    I really dig what you did with your shifter lights. I may have to steal that idea. Also Blondas exhaust tips are way cool. SDMike's painted rotors are great except red wont go on my car. AjpIII rims and dvd/lcd screens... awesome car.
  • drive = love

    Mechanically, I had a few trans problems early on that were repaired under warranty. At 38,000 I had a front sway bar bushing fail...they had to replace the entire assembly...a $600 repair that was technically not covered by my extended warranty but my (really a) 5* got Chrysler to do it for the $100 deductible anyway. Zero problems in the last 60,000 miles. I have not had any of the tire problems many have complained of here. No window failures although they are sounding pretty creaky these days. I drive it for business so lots of highway miles and maybe non-typical service life issues. I averaged 22.5 mpg for all miles the first two years when I tracked every tank of gas. It still doesn't burn any oil and while I have not read every one of the 21,417 posts here, I have never seen any complaints of engine reliability issues. My interior definitely shows signs of wear and tear, but the only thing I would call unusual was the breaking of one of the main driver seat attachment bolts. I wish I had time to go Zaino-crazy like a lot of contributors here, but my warhorse just goes to the car wash every couple of weeks and the exterior has held up well. But, (and this is why this vehicle is destined to be a classic) I still feel a sense of pride when I see it sitting in the parking lot and know it is mine. The styling still looks remarkably fresh to me after four years. The "N" that Otto will start building pretty soon may be a great car, but it will be a totally different car and having one of the last M's may turn out to be a very good thing.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Got the slight hesitation in starting again this a.m. I turn the key to start it and there is about a 1/2 second pause before anything happens. Any ideas? The battery is now a brand new Diehard, so I don't think it could be that. Is there a relay or celanoid that involves the ignition key. One day I tried my extra key just in case it was a chip problem with the key and it gave me the same result when I tried it. I have noticed that it happens most often when the car has sat overnight or for an extended period during the day. Any thoughts on this before I try the dealer?
  • Hey guys, if I were to go with HID wannabe's, does anyone have suggestions? I see that the Sylvania Silverstars aren't yet available, any one else know of a close match to actual HID's? I see Midnight Moose has Eaglite Xenon's and Max Super White's. Are either of those good? How about PIAA's?? I don't want the kind that just look blue and provide no lighting benefit.
    Thanks for any input!
Sign In or Register to comment.