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Chrysler 300M



  • I had a feeling that there should be some sort of extended warranty on safety equipment, but the dealer's service writer either didn't know it (doubtful) or preferred not to mention it(likely).

    But since the seat belt mechanism was still servicable, and since I did not want to take the time (hassle) to argue my point with someone who was clearly not on my side, this solution seemed more efficient.

  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273

    I hear you! I KNOW how "accommodating and helpful" those "5-STAR" service managers can be from PAST experience!

  • I don't think dealers repair anything anymore. They just replace. This way, they can make a profit on the part, overcharge you with with flat rate labor, and move on to the next vehicle.

    At the end of the day, the average mechanic has flagged 25 hours in an 8 hour day, replaced countless parts needlessly, and helped the dealer's bottom line in the process.

    But I'm not bitter!!

  • Hello everyone:
    I am only 16, don't know much about the consequences of what I did, nor the 300M engine. Basically, a few days ago, I woke up in the morning, and was going to go for a drive. The car wasn't warmed up, cold engine. Instead of having my foot on the brake, I had it on the gas pedal. The second I start the car, I have a habit of pusing the brake. However, this time, I pushed the gas. My car only reved up to 2500 R.P.M., however it happened right at the time when I turned on the car...Can I have possible problems due to what I did...can that result to possible problems if it is done...thanks.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    No big deal on pressing the accelerator at the starting of the car. Normally, it is not done with the electronic fuel injection, but as long as you didn't red line it in neutral for an extended period of time it should be no problem. Old people [like me] still sometimes end up depressing the gas pedal out of habit because the old cars we grew up with didn't have electronic fuel injection and normally responded better to ignition if you depressed the pedal when starting the car. You should have no problem...don't worry about it.
  • Your fine. It's one thing to rev to over 5K rpm & hold it there, but only briefly at 2500 isn't a big deal.
  • mrl859mrl859 Posts: 168
    There is one thing you must realize. In the old days, parts were available to repair assemblies. With all the electronics on modern cars, most components are sold as part of assemblies and pieces of those assemblies are not available separately. It is not the dealer doing this to jack up profits, it's the nature of today's advanced electronics.
  • mrl859mrl859 Posts: 168
    The reason why the engine only revved to 2500 is because there is a built in rev limiter for when the car is in park or neutral. This keeps the engine from over revving when there is no load on it.
  • True however, 99.9% of the time parts at a dealer are more expensive then at a parts store. And parts prices vary with dealers. So the dealers do control what the puplic pays. Just like any bussiness they want to make money at the expensise of the consumer. It's the consumers job to not get taken.
  • mrl859mrl859 Posts: 168
    It is definetly true that dealers do set their own prices. My point was that it is not the dealers who determine what is serviced as an assembly and what is not.
  • what happened to the Townhall logons? I can't log in as Ruski anymore and was forced to create a new account and screen name.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    wasruski & russonator-

    "We've moved to a new registration system. Members should sign on using their lowercase e-mail address and password, rather than their Town Hall username and password. Read more about the changes in the Our Software... discussion or Contact Us with your username if you need help logging in.
    For all other questions, please Ask the Hosts."

    Hope this helps.

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    No, all you need to do is either email me, or use the contact links in the gray box at the top of the page. These discussions are not monitored in real time, so if you post here, you just end up waiting for me to come by on my regular rounds.

    Anyway, I sent you an email at the address listed in your current profile - hope that helps.
  • rstilprstilp Posts: 105
    Someone in the club paid $ .29 each for T25 Torx at their dealer so I checked at my dealer and they wanted $ 1.58 each. I'll never go back.
  • It is time to replace the tires on my wife's 2001 300M. She got 36,000 miles out of the original Michelins, rotated every 3000 miles. Still some tread on them, but uneven wear on two of them has brought the tread on one side of the tires to the wear bar. Michelin replacements are $140 each on

    In looking for other replacements, I saw that the Continental Touring Contact CV95's were on special for $95 each, although we don't need V-rated tires. They are actually rated just above the Michelins in the tirerack consumer survey.

    Has anyone any experience with these tires? The $180 price difference (Michelins are 47% higher) make them attractive.

    By the way, I previously endorsed the Yokahama Avid T-4s on the basis of the performance and feel. However, they were close to the wear bar at less than 20,000 miles and I was lucky I didn't have to replace them before turning in my 2000 300M on lease.

    Any other recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • If you liked the Yokahama Avid T4 for ride and handling, try looking up the Avid Touring.
    Ratings are T4 Traction A Temperature B Treadwear 420. Tourings are A, B, Treadwear 620. They should last longer.
  • Thanks for the info. For some reason, tirerack won't let me pull up the Avid Touring for the 300M...
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273

    ONE good thing about all the new changes around here is the elimination of the URL limits! That's a plus so that you don't have to go to Make a Shorter and "fool" the software here. ;-))


    One way to solve the tire problem is to trade in the car BEFORE they wear out! That's what I've done all along. LOL.....

  • hayneldan...

    I wasn't able to pull up the 17" Yokahama equivalent (my size). Maybe it's not available in 17"...


    "One way to solve the tire problem is to trade in the car BEFORE they wear out! That's what I've done all along. LOL....."

    But with cars like Christine, you've had another reason to turn them in early! We've been lucky so far and expect to keep our M's for many years...
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273

    True, but it wasn't just with Christine. After 3-4 years, I get tired of a car and change it. I've always been like that. Guess I was spoiled from day one.

    I hate paying for repairs to cars especially with the prices they charge and some of the ding-a-lings you have to deal with out there. Years ago, it was easy to find a good mechanic who could FIX things. Now we're in the throw away era because you CAN'T fix it.

  • I put the Continental ContiTouringContact CV-95's, size 225/55-17, on my '99 300M last year. So far I have 22,000 miles on them and have been very satisfied with them. They have been very good in rain and I have even driven successfully on ice with them recently (NOT recommended, but possible!!) They are much quieter than the Goodyears that were on the car when I bought it. I paid $122 each for them last May, it looks like you can get a better price now. I drive about 80 miles a day on the interstate and want the tires to last awhile. I hope this is of some use.
  • Thanks!

    As you could probably tell, I was leaning toward the Continental ContiTouringContact CV-95's and I am happy to get positive feedback to reinforce my decision.

    However, I still have to convince my wife... :)
  • Rstilp, what is a T25 Torx? Is that a tongue twister? Anyway, like you, I've noticed a bad markup at dealers also. One dealer, when I called a couple of times on parts, gave me different prices each time within a short period of time. Once, I got one price over the phone, and when I went to get it later dressed in my greasy work clothes, maybe I looked poor as they charged me a good bit less. My point is that they don't even keep the prices consistent, and when I call them on it they give a big line of BS. This happened recently, after which I thanked the man and left without buying his parts. He who laughs last laughs best.

    Tires; If you buy a $25 online subscription to Consumer Reports, the best combo tire (performance all season) in the 300M's size is the Falken (I think it's W rated for speed in the 225/55 17 size). They're sold at Sears, which includes free rotations for the life of any tires you buy there (not sure if you have to buy 4 to get that). They are rated quite a bit higher than the Yoko Avids that CR tested, although CR tested an Avid other than the T4. I think the Falcons have a more complex compound to best combine performance w/grip and all season capability, which I don't think the T4s have based on my reading on their web site. I bought T4 recently and am not impressed with their handling, although are good in snow (although only average on ice by my estimation on North East roads). I think the Michelins are great tires, but too expensive. My next tires will probably be the Falcons, and some people have spoken well of the Hydro Edges they've bpurchased at Costco. But I don't think the HydroEdge is that performance oriennted; I guess it depends what your priorities are.

    Pardon my wordiness but I've read way more about tires and care more about them than anybody should. They are an important interface for that sleek vehicle you've got in your garage/driveway so get a good set and enjoy them!

    Let me comment on Contis; they make some great tire in my opinion but I have read on one or more models where when the car sits for a few days the tires take a "set"; that is, they get slightly out of round (a flat spot where they were parked) which can cause a vibration sometimes when driving. But if you're driving the car everyday it shouldn't be a problem. Good Luck. You'll be limited in selection if you want the M's exact size. I insist on the exact size as I don't want the odometer and speedometer to be "off".
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    The Michelin MXRV-4's on the wife's 96 Aurora were also dead at 38K irrespective of careful rotation and balancing, etc. [Sold the car when it was time to change the tires.] Goodrich made [don't know if they are still available] two tires that would go on the 17 x 7" rims. The Scorcher [they have the red, yellow or blue colored band in the vertical tread and a weird tread pattern anyway- John Wyche had them on his M] and the Comp TA's, which I put on my 99M at 40K. They are 245/50-17's and they have performed well, and show virtually no wear after 25K miles. I do about 26 miles a day to and from work, most 55 mph. I am running them at 35 psi per dealer recommendation. I think there was a follow-on Goodrich tire for the Comp TA and somebody who used to be in Dallas but moved to CA had them. K-force or something, can't recall the model number?
  • lflowerslflowers Posts: 155
    I'm the fellow who was running Goodrich GForce KDW tires (245/45-17, Z rated) on my 2000 M. I liked them a lot (wore out 2 sets!), but recently replaced them with Pirelli PZero Nero's (also in 245/45-17 size w/Z rating). The Pirellis are very nearly as good as the Goodrich tires on dry pavement, better on wet, and supposed to be better in snow (haven't had that pleasure yet).
    The Pirellis are quieter than the Goodrichs, which were already quieter than the original Goodyears.
    By the way, I completed my assignment in California and now have a new contract job back in Dallas.
    Lynn Flowers
    McKinney, Texas
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Right Lynn, now I remember it was you. God has the time gone that fast, it seems lkike yesterday you were going out there. Did you get near SDMike while there?
  • lflowerslflowers Posts: 155
    I worked quite near SDMike's home and we talked on the phone about getting together, but we never actually managed to see each other.

  • Thanks everyone for the tire input!

    Since I didn't hear anything bad about the Continental Touring Contact CV95's, I decided to go with them. AT $95 each, we will save $45 per tire, or $180 less than the O/E Michelins.

    With no negative feedback on the Continental's, I couldn't pass up the bargain price. I'm not sure my wife was convinced (they're for her), but I told her I'd swap with her if she didn't like them...
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