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2012 Subaru Impreza



  • sgoldste01sgoldste01 Posts: 26
    A floor jack is faster. The jack I linked to above is a high-speed jack that raises and lowers much more rapidly than any cork-screw scissors jack.

    When I do tire rotations, I like to have all four tires in the air at the same time. I am able to accomplish this with two lifts of my floor jack (one at the front lift point under the engine, and one at the rear lift point at the rear differential). I'm guessing you would need to do four lifts with your scissors jacks.

    But it's more than just speed. There's also a safety factor. Many people use scissors jacks as a last resort, emergency only solution. A floor jack with jack stands is both faster and safer.
  • dfong87dfong87 Posts: 171
    i agree with sgold.

    it sounds like once already owns a floor jack. related to my post above: how much extra clearance do you need? finding a few scraps of wood to drive onto might give you enough clearance so you don't have to buy anything new, and worry about the safety and time issues raised by sgold.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    One other point to note... the "scissors" jack, which I'm guessing is the one that comes with the car, isn't really designed for regular use. The screws on my '96 Outback's jack and my '98 Escort's jack have both worn out as a result of using them for seasonal tire change outs in the past few years. I now only have the jack in my new(er) Forester, and need to pick up another one or two from a local junk dealer before I wear that one out too.

    Unfortunately, floor jacks generally don't prefer a gravel driveway, but I've made it work a few times. ;)
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • sgoldste01sgoldste01 Posts: 26
    I'd trust a floor jack on a gravel driveway more than I'd trust a scissors jack on any surface.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Posts: 1,640
    edited July 2012
    2 floor jacks, 2 lift points, all 4 tires in the air? Now you make me nervous. What keeps the car from tipping sideways?

    I have used a floor jack and 4 x 4 in the center of the side and lifted both wheels of the Forester. That works pretty good, but the Forester isn't mostly plastic underneath like the Impreza.
  • dcm61dcm61 Posts: 1,552
    2 floor jacks, 2 lift points, all 4 tires in the air? Now you make me nervous. What keeps the car from tipping sideways?

    I would assume they are using jack stands (but then you don't really need 2 floor jacks).
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    edited July 2012
    Not me! I've known too many floor jacks. ;)

    The primary problem with a floor jack on such a surface is that the jack must be able to roll in order to counter-act the levering effect of the hydraulic arm. Once the vehicle's weight begins to bear down on the jack, its ability to roll is compromised. Unless the vehicle is allowed to roll, that can be problematic. For example, you can literally pull a vehicle off a jack stand this way.

    That said, I do prefer to use floor jacks whenever possible simply due to the speed... but that doesn't mean I'm going to "trust" them more than other jacking methods.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • sgoldste01sgoldste01 Posts: 26
    That's right, I only use one floor jack. I jack up the front of the car from the front-center lift point, then set it down on two jack stands that are positioned under the front pinch welds at the edge of the body.

    Then I jack up the rear of the car from the rear-center lift point (the rear diff), and then set the rear down on two more jack stands that are positioned under the rear pinch welds at the edge of the body. At this point, all four wheels are airborn.

    To lower the car again, I first lower the rear of the car, then I lower the front of the car.
  • sgoldste01sgoldste01 Posts: 26
    Good point about using a surface that allows the floor jack to roll.
  • kanjiikanjii Posts: 99
    Ok SP and SL owners. What do you think of the OEM Yokohama tires on your subie so far? I, myself think these are pretty awesome tires so far, but I have nothing to compare. These are my first "ultra performance" tires. Actually, these are my first performance tires :P . Tire Rack gives them poor ratings, especially from Mazda owners and a few Subie owners, except me.
  • porperporper Posts: 2
    Irritation red? Annoyance red? If so, is it the only color available?

    For that matter, is amatuerish white the only daytime color available for the dash?
  • cherryfancherryfan Posts: 12

    Did you wake up on the wrong side of the bed this morning?

    I find the red much, much easier on the eyes at night. And white seems perfectly suitable to daylight. Why would Subaru screw around with something that works just fine?
  • joeminijoemini Posts: 4
    We have 4900 miles on our 2012 Impreza Premium. We love the car but have several concerns.

    1. There are now 2 distinct rattles in the dash. The first is on the passenger side by the dash speaker. It sounds like a screw came loose and is rattling around in it's holder. This rattle comes and goes depending on the smoothness of the road.
    2. The second rattle sounds like it is somewhere in the center of the dash. This also comes and goes depending on road conditions.
    3. Durability of the seat material looks to be very poor in both front and rear seats.

    I mentioned the rattles at the 3500 mile service but the dealer could not duplicate my concerns.

    Anyone have a similar experience?
  • I have roughly 2200 miles on my base model Impreza and I also have an off and on rattle from the dash. I have a feeling that the sound is coming from the plastic on the underside of the hood over the speedometer because the right side of this plastic feels like it isn't secured too strongly to the dash. I've been thinking about mentioning it at the first oil change, but I haven't been able to replicate the sound on demand. I hear it every so often when driving. The road doesn't even have to be particularly rough for the rattle to appear.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Welcome to Subaru ownership!

    Interior rattles are a way of life for Subaru. Fortunately, the dealer should be able to take care of the initial ones, but others will eventually (as in a few months after the 3/36 warranty) replace them. It is the one thing I really haven't liked about any of the four Subaru vehicles I have owned. :mad:
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • dfong87dfong87 Posts: 171
    i have a lot of rattles, but all intermittent. i've documented them to death on the NASIOC forum. the most annoying one may be the same as your 2nd rattle:

    it's a tick-tick-tick sound that comes at certain temperatures which suggest that something is expanding and contracting which allows things to have more or less play. initially, i heard it only when the car was cool (in CA that means 65 oF in my garage). after the car was in the sun, it would go away. now, it's not there when the car is cool, but is some intermediate temperature.

    i can make the sound go away if i apply pressure between the dash assembly and the instrumentation cluster. i *think* the sound is coming from within the instrumentation cluster. my theory is that when that dash panel moves under the right temperature conditions, the dash cluster moves at some clip or another point and it squeaks/ticks. i thought i could deaden the behavior by sticking a piece of cardboard between the two pieces but that doesn't seem to help. i think my hand stops it because it is able to hold everything rigid. i think in the end, the rattle is "way up" into the instrument cluster so not easily fixable. i'd love to have the dealer fix it, but i am guessing that will only have a small chance of occurring if the problem becomes more persistent and regular so i can duplicate it consistently and have it occur when i bring the car in and have it remain while they test drive it. sigh...

    my other rattles (which i'm getting more used to) include something on the passenger side near the seat belt. i'm now guessing its actually the roof rail outside. this is only there when the car is "cool," but goes away pretty quickly and doesn't seem to come back even as the evening hours hit and if my car was parked outside. but i think i'm also getting better at ignoring it.

    i had some noises in the A pillars which i have pretty much cured by better bracing the A pillars from the windows (stuffed a piece of cardstock on one side, and a felt circle on the other) and also putting foam tape to remove play in a small piece of panel outside of the car at the base of the windshield.

    i'd be so ecstatic if i could get rid of the first rattle as i think that's the only one that continues to annoy me. i can handle the other occasional ones...
  • dfong87dfong87 Posts: 171
    so you've had some success with your dealer helping with some initial rattles? i haven't seen one post on NASIOC which suggests anyone has gotten rid of their rattles with the dealer's help.
  • I'm with you. I have a very occasional rattle in the dash speaker on the driver's side. These dash speakers do not seem to be secured well at all, and any road surface that sets up the right vibration sets the speaker abuzz.

    I found that simply pushing down on the speaker cover solved the rattle briefly. But I expect it to recur when road conditions provoke it.
  • dfong87dfong87 Posts: 171
    i think i know what you guys are talking about. if i'm right, and your experience is the same as mine, then the rattle is not actually the speaker/tweeter. it's actually the A-pillar. what is happening when you push down on the speaker grill is that you are stabilizing the a pillar and keeping it from rattling against the glass. so there are several ways to fix it, but for me, it was to cushion the gap between the glass and the A pillar trim. i did two temp fixes and left them both in place because i don't think anyone can see them unless i point them out. (driver's side has a round felt pad 3/16" thick tucked between the two, the other side has a folded cardstock parking permit)

    YMMV, but it's likely you rattles are similar to mine and can be fixed. (the tweeter is held down by two screws (can't recall if they were phillips or flat) that for me are plenty tight (i replaced my tweeters)....those speaker panels can also be carefully pride up from the front edge so you can see what i'm talking about regarding how the A-pillar and that trim piece fit together.
  • joeminijoemini Posts: 4
    dfong87---I thought about the A pillars---they are loose but I don't think they are the culprits.
    I will try some felt to see if that helps. I have a 2002 GMC sierra that has a dash rattle that only
    occurs when the temp is below freezing( I live in Wisconsin). Once the cab is warmed up the rattle is gone.
    While the car is under warranty I won't do anything too drastic but I would like to solve these
    annoying issues. I do most of the normal maintenance on my vehicles so I won't be going back to the dealer unless I really need to.
    Do the speaker covers just pop off? I would like to get them off without breaking them.
    Thanks for all the posts.
    P.S. the subie replaced my wife's mini as you may have already guessed.
  • van123van123 Posts: 14
    We are looking at purchasing an Impreza sedan. Does anyone have good info as to when the 2013 Impreza will be available? Since it is so close to a new model year, we would like the added trade in value in the future. Thanks! ;)
  • dfong87dfong87 Posts: 171
    yes, the speaker covers do pry up and off. just do it gently.

    take a flat screwdriver (thin one) and tuck it on the front face, maybe 1 inch in from the "inwards corner" and pry up so you can get your fingers under it and gently tug upward. that front edge will pop up and then you can pull the whole cover forward and out. to put it back in: reverse: push it inwards (towards the windshield) so that the "teeth/male ends go into the holes/female end on the dash and then push down.

    probably too much detail that isn't super clear, but hopefully somewhat helpful...
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,788
    Probably late August or September. It will likely arrive when the XV Crosstrek arrives, as they are so closely related.

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    I can't speak to the new Impreza, but yes, they were successful with most of my initial rattles on my '07 and '08 Outbacks, and my '10 Forester. Both the Outbacks had terrible rattles (sounded like a ball bearing rolling/jumping around in the middle of the dash near the windshield) in the dash and the liftgate, and both were fixed by the dealer.

    The '09 Forester had only two bad rattles: One in each front door. The car was perfectly silent the first 500 miles I owned it, but by the time I made it home at 2,200 miles, both front doors were singing to their own tunes. Again, the dealer took care of those (apparently common and well-documented issues on the '09 and '10 Foresters) on the first visit.

    During the 3/36 warranty, I listen for rattles as much as possible. Now that I'm out of 3/36, I wish I could turn that part of my hearing off. Thankfully, the only thing that rattles consistently now is something in the moonroof assembly, but it is just above my head, so it can get pretty annoying.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    I do most of the normal maintenance on my vehicles so I won't be going back to the dealer unless I really need to.

    Yeah, I don't like to visit the dealer either. In the case of rattles, I figure if it costs Subaru enough money to fix those sorts of preventable issues, they might tweak their manufacturing techniques to avoid the problems in the first place. On the contrary, if I spend my time finding and fixing them myself, they have no incentive at all to make the issues better for future buyers.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • dfong87dfong87 Posts: 171
    thanks for the positive feedback/encouragement. if i can get my rattles to be any more consistent, i'll bring them in. the intermittency thus far is a mixed blessing. 75% (?) of the time, the car is dead quiet and "tight." the other 25% i find myself annoyed and can't seem to ignore them.

    i think if i could get rid of the one in my dash, i can live with any other intermittent rattle. it's the rattles that are in close proximity that have a way of really getting on my nerves.
  • rxman4rxman4 Posts: 2
    I think your right on with the Pillars causing the rattle. I used a 2 inch piece of a very small rubber vacuum hose and inserted it between the glass and A Pillar cover and so far, for the last month, no rattles (at least in the front passenger side) I do have a rattle coming near the passenger side rear, by the hatch thats driving me nuts. At first I thought I found the problem when I noticed the black covering around the window had a clip that wasn't pushed all the way in, but that wasn't it - I then sprayed silicone in the hatch channel, but still can't find the problem. I do feel the front rattle near the speaker seems to be the A Pillar cover and the glass just as you said.
  • jd_24jd_24 Posts: 92
    5 months, 6000+ miles and no rattles so far. Good mpg and I'm happy. Now the however part.
    3 times I've had a humming noise from the rear of the car. All three times the car is parked, and keys out of the ignition. Engine hasn't been running for hours. The hum is from the rear underside. My best guess is fuel pump. But why would it start running when the car is off??? Put the key in the ignition and turn to ACC and back off and the noise stops.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Must be emissions related. Could be pressurizing fuel or even venting the fuel tank itself.
  • jd_24jd_24 Posts: 92
    I was leaning that way too. First time was a hot day. Last two times was cooler (about 70) so I'm leaning less that way. Also how long would it have to run?? I've let it go 5 minutes after hearing it, and I don't know when it I think it runs a long time.
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