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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions



  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Had a similar problem with the wife's 00 Eldo, and it turned out to be crank shaft sensors. The dealer knew what the fix was as soon as I described what was happening. must have been a pretty common occurrence for that model for them to know exactly what the problem was before doing a diagnostic. It was under extended warranty, but the bill to replace the sensors, per the invoice, was about $320. :shades:
  • Sorry I can't be of help, I have the same sort of thing. Idles rough stopped in drive, in neutral it's fine. Seems to run great at speed, good enough mileage (23 city, 28 hwy). Changed plugs to platinum, nothing, no error codes. Car has 33k. If you hear anything or find a fix I'd be interested to hear it. Otherwise, I love this car!
  • Is there a specific one that can be downloaded for the 300M? I noticed the ones you had posted were for a LHS and general Chrysler one
  • Thanks for the info. I will enjoy it as long as I can afford to fill the gas tank! :) Gas is $2.85 a gallon where I live. I take it you have not run into any tire pressure problems. I have always had a soft spot for red, but my 300M is metallic black. I've done some researching on the octane debate, and it appears that as long as it doesn't ping you can get by on the lower octane. I will probably continue to use the recommended octane in the manual just to be on the safe side. Let me know if any problems arise.
  • illini4illini4 Posts: 140
    It's not going to ping on 87 octane. The engine has detonation sensors that cause the ECM to retard timing slightly if detonation (ping) occurs.
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    Goto the main 300M forum this msg, note it's a 54 MEGABYTE download so you better have broadband or DSL and plenty of harddrive space.

    Message 25940 of 25944 Service Manual 2004 300M, Concorde and Intrepid by spark9 Sep 21, 2005

    I downloaded a version a few months ago, but after 18 months still no problems (half way through the new car warranty, so the dealer would fix them anyway, but car quality remains superb).
  • I bought my 2004 300M new with 5 miles on it. Nothing but problems from day one. Over heating, head gasket replacement, several oxygen sensors, and crank sensors. Finally the engine locked up on the dealers lot. They replaced the long block at no charge and the dealer has been great. Now with about 30k on the new long block the have replaced several oxygen sensors and now the crank sensor on the new engine. Seems like we are going down the same path. Dealer has been great car has been terrible.. Sorry for all the bad news but its fact.
  • illini4illini4 Posts: 140
    I've been following this board as well as other 300M boards for over 6 years and have never heard a story like yours. None of the problems you mention are common - they are more like unheard of. You are having some incredibly bad luck.
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Posts: 3,096
    Maybe your M came from a lot stricken by Katrina...

    '13 Jaguar XF, possibly my favorite of all the cars I've owned. But, my '09 Jag XK was a beauty, as was my '05 Acura TL, '88 Acura Integra, '84 Mitsubishi Mirage Turbo & '78 VW Scirocco (my first!). And, of course, the '92 Nissan Sentra SE-R and '95 Saab 900s I bought for the ex... Ok, I like a lot of the cars in my life.

  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    I feel for you too, I bought my 300M new in spring 04 and with 15K miles have had zero problems. It's the best car I have ever owned quality wise (and looks etc too). At least so far, we'll see what another 5-7 years brings as I typically drive mine into the ground, which unfortunately even w/TLC never seems to be the 150K miles I would like to get.

    I guess it's a bell shaped curve with some bad and some good; really sorry to hear you have had that many severe problems as overall it's a sharp pretty highly rated car.
  • HI classiccars, I started my wife's 02 300M the last couple days to move it in the garage, it started knocking, vibrating and putting out smoke. Sounds like a bad lifter pumping up but it's OK when it finally get's up. I am worried sick but I just joined and seems everyone is having the same problem. I went through the tranny thing with it starting in the wrong gear, etc, showing all gears and not just drive at the drive position. what a pain, dealer was never able to get the check engine light out. What is happening with your's any answers.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    ...but I just joined and seems everyone is having the same problem.

    Huh? Who else is having that problem? I don't recall anybody having the problem you describe. :confuse:
  • Hi, I have a 1999 300M and I noticed last week that when I started the vehicle, a code that reads -1sel appears on the screen and then disappears showing either my radio station of the time. I have also noticed that the front speaker located in the dash has a lot of feedback (almost like a blown speaker) and I don't know if it has anything to do with the "code" that I am getting when I start my car, or if it is a seperate incident.
  • illini4illini4 Posts: 140
    I believe that's what comes up when you input you seat/mirror/radio memory for selection #1. It may come up when you unlock the car with the #1 remote transmitter and then turn on the ignition- I'm not sure.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    That is correct.
  • mpw2mpw2 Posts: 1
    I have a 20002 M can any won tell me where all the air filters are on this car
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    There's only one and it's located on the passenger side fender, under the hood, behind the passenger side headlight. There are no cabin filters.
  • 99'300M/PHP.
    I have had light shows e.g. radio displasy on/off;dash display on/off;overhead map lights flicker. this past summer.
    At the the same time period this past summer I have had starting problems. When I attempt to start car,there is complete silence, no electrical connection. I found out by trial and error that if I turn on the headlights, or the radio the electrical connection is made and the car starts immediately.
    The starting problem is getting better in the cooler aurumn weather.(Any connection)?

    Any thoughts on this ?? or similar past experiences?? solutions to the problem.???
  • dale8dale8 Posts: 1
    Hope that it is only a bad lifter. Our 300M, with less than 50K, suffered a connecting rod bearing failure that scored the crankshaft. Always changed oil (Mobil 1: 10W30) and filter (Fram Tough Guard) every 3000 miles. Absolutely no warning until the terrible knock started on startup. The knock discontinued after several minutes, but the damage had already been done. Guess that I'll be switching to Japanese-built cars in the near future.
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    Sorry, but not sure how to link to a comment I made w/o replying to myself. Well, I just had my first very minor 300M bug and warranty fix (I hope it's fixed, car seems to be doing better). At 15,700 miles and 19 months old, on Monday it did not start - engine cranked but it twas flooded. We got it started doing the old hold the pedal to the floor trick just like carbs did for years, then lotsa white smoke and bad gas smells even after driving it around for a mile. It did not throw a code, I was suspicious of bad gas, however the wife had filled at a major chain sooooo....despite thinking it might be overkill I took it to our DC dealer.

    Wow, they got me in w/o an appt, had it done in 90 mins! Nothing showed on their scopes and it was running fine of course, so they put a TSB firmware upgrade into the main car computer TSB 18-042-03 for cold weather hard start and rough idle. I put in a full tank of top grade (BP/Amoco) gas and have driven it now for a day ... all seems fine, so will let the wife have "her" car back. The only thing that seems odd is we drove it all last winter with no problems, why a problem now when only 40 deg out, hmmm?

    Anyway, I'm not sure I really will hold this against the car: it was minor, maybe only a fluke, no real pains and excellent turn around at Adamson Motors (ah, tomorrow I head there for my first new tires on my 01 Gr Cherokee at 70,000 miles ... Michelin LTX M/S, this one WILL cost some bucks but I hope they are as good as all I read about them ... cannot complain getting that many miles on OEM GY Wranglers either, but I need more than 4/32s tread in Minnesota winter).
  • blorbblorb Posts: 2
    My heater stopped blowing hot air. this spring it did it for 1 day
    and it returned after I set heat to 90 then back down but that did
    not work this time. how do I do a diagnostics test or reset on the ATC
    temp gauge is fine any ideas to what problem could be.
    thanks blorb
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    I'll assume it blows air. You may be having a problem with your heater core. If it's simply taking a while before the air starts blowing, that's normal. I can't remember if it's true for the 99 Ms, but it won't start blowing any air until the engine warms up. That way you don't get hit with an Arctic blast when you turn on the heat. If that is the case, just set the highly effective seat warmer on High and enjoy until the air starts. ;)
  • blorbblorb Posts: 2
    It blows fine, but its cold and stays cold even when engine warms up.
    could it be thermostat? any way I can do a self diagnostics on atc?
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    There's no self-test that I know of for the ATC. You may have a blockage to the heater core or it could be the valve to the core just not opening. You'll have to take it to the dealer and have them check it out.
  • illini4illini4 Posts: 140
    There is a self test. It's initiated by depressing some combination of the control switches, but I don't remember the details. Its covered in the service manual.
  • I have owned an '00 300M for two years now. The car has been great for 28,000 miles and now has 49,000. Several months ago it started to develop a hard starting condition. It fires right up when cold (sitting all night) or hot (a quick trip in and out of a store) but if it sat for two/three hours it might have taken a couple of cranks to turnover and at times would puff out a cloud of smoke. The mechanic performed a fuel pressure reading about two weeks ago, and said it showed low pressure and replaced the fuel pump. The problem has gotten worse with the new pump and now can sit out all day at work and give me the same fits after eight hours. It still starts right up hot or being started in the morning. The car runs great after it starts and has always started after a couple of cranks. Could I be having the same problems with the starter/ignition relay and switch problems like the '99 owner's had on page 7 of this forum? Any advice would be appreciated.
  • Do you know what might cause a musty odor in a 2001 300M? Like last night, I had the climate control 'off' for about 30 minutes while driving, then hit the 'Automatic' switch. I got a mild odor for 3-4 minutes, then it was fine. One night in the rain, I had the odor for a 30 mile drive. During the day, I almost never have it. Changed the air filter, made sure the a/c drip hose is clear. A friend told me to check the cabin filter, but I was told it didn't have one. A 1996 Caravan had a similar odor, it was a filter in the a/c system. Does the 300M have one of those?
  • mshermsher Posts: 5
    Most likely you have a problem with the negative wire of the battery. Try to clean up both connectors of the wire (on battery side and on ground side)
This discussion has been closed.