Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions



  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    Sorry to hear of your problems, I am near 18,000mi on a Mar 04 purchased 2004 with no problems so far.
    Why are they charging you =anything= when it's still under warranty? Be sure to take it to a 5 star Chrysler dealer, they should not be charging you to diagnose these problems (or I would contact your regional Chrysler rep). And write it all down, symptoms, date/times, external conditions etc. Keep us posted. DNaatz in Rochester MN
  • scotianscotian Posts: 1,064
    For light show problem, at least that which involves dimming light intensity:
  • I have a 2000 300M with 73K miles and I am noticing that 3 of 4 doors are rusting on the inner edge. I keep my car in the garage all the time. Anyone else having this problem or if this is a defect with 300Ms? I don't think this should be happening with a 6 year old car. I am probably going to contact Chrysler.

    Any input is appreciated.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    If it's the bottom inner edge of the doors, the drain holes are probably clogged. You'll need to unclog the holes and get that rust taken care of.

    No, this is not common for the 300M (or any LH car) that I know of. Pretty much every common problem with the 300M is posted here and that isn't one of them. Luckily for us all, the 300M has very few problems at all.
  • illini4illini4 Posts: 140
    It may not be common, but it happened to my 2000 M also. The rust is along the seam where the door skin is bonded to to the frame. It's not all along the seam, just here and there, including under the drain slots. I some of it have it on every door except the front passenger door. My fix was to scrape the rust off the best I could, and spray on Extend rust treatment IAW their instructions, followed by a coat of touch up paint. That seems to have stopped it. Don't bother with Chrysler. They won't do anything unless an outer panel is rusted through.
  • We have owned a 1999 300M from 0 to 93,000 miles.
    It has been a very good car for me (we love how it looks and how it handles)and we have had very few problems with it.
    BUT ------- FYI

    We had an issue where the interior lights would remain ON after you shut the car off. The dealership where we purchased the auto told us they needed to remove the dash and replace some $400.00 something or other.
    Wanting a second opinion we took the auto to a different dealership and for $40.00 he fixed the problem which was:
    A wire that fed the overhead inside light located above the rear door was shorting to the auto frame, the wire was taped and the problem was solved.

    We do need some help!

    We have been experiencing a problem with the auto alarm system. When the car is locked and left alone everything seems normal, then maybe hours later without any warning at all the alarm system "goes off" with the lights flashing and horn blowing.
    Does anyone have a solution for this problem?

    Our car is now experiencing sluggish starting.
    When it is cold it starts perfectly, when it is started again after it has warmed up it sometimes wants to "crank" for a time before it starts.
    Does anyone have a solution for this problem?
  • Thanks everyone for the feedback.
  • Where are the drain holes located? How do you unclog them?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,596
    right in the bottom of the door as you open it. Anything will do, a paper clip, pencil, whatever.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • dgaonadgaona Posts: 3
    Just had my battery replaced and after a few problems, the problem was actually a bad battery clamp on the positive side. Now during the time I thought my battery was dead I used a portable battery to jump start the engine. When the clamp was replaced, now my low beam headlights dont work. High beams and fog lights work fine. Checked the fuses under the hood and inside the drivers side dash and all are ok.

    Both headlights worked fine before the battery/battery clamp replacement and I have never heard of both lights burining out at the same time. Any suggestions??
  • dgaonadgaona Posts: 3
    Oh, 300M is a 1999 from message above...
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Replace the fuses anyway. Probably is a bad relay. The shop might've fried something while connecting the new battery cable.
  • It was just the headlights. Took it to the shop to make sure it wasnt the relays or an electrical problem. Funny that they both went out at the same time. I still think the genius who put the battery in my car did something to cause them to burn out....

    Now, I have to take a look at my power windows, three of four dont work....they've been replaced by the dealer during the warranty period, but now I gotta pay....Thanks for the help...
  • If you can get the door panels off try spraying the brushes of the window motors with TV tuner cleaner or any electronic cleaner. Someone posted that this works most of the time.
  • I was unable to successfully de-oxidize the headlight lenses in my 2000 300M using a variety of online suggestions as well as buying lens cleaner from my Chrysler dealer. So, I just bought replacement OEM headlight units for $169 each and, separately, purchased Sylvania SilverStar high and low beam lamps based on several online recommendations I had located and read.

    Can anyone direct me to a step-by-step instruction guide on how to take off the front end plastic cover and them remove and replace the headlight units? And is there anything I need to know about inserting the new bulbs other than not to touch the glass with my fingers?

    The now six year old car has been a near-flawless performer. No significant or major problems other than replacing three driver/passenger electric window motors.

    Thank you.
  • Hi. If you still have this problem or if it comes and goes,you should look for MISFIRE ON ONE COIL. I had a 2000 Intrepid with the same problem and took it to the dealer. They replaced the coil and problem was gone. Good luck. :)
  • Sorry to hear you already bought replacement headlights. The problem with these headlights is the poor quality material used.Oxidation at a microscopical look comes from thousands of diminute superficial cracks. My 2000 300m was horrible and lights were very dim due to this problem. I used a 600 grit sand paper with water,followed by 1000 grit(with water too) and then polished them with a good plexiglass polish cream (Available at Pep Boys and others). Headlights came almost as good as new. Polishing with the cream must be done at least monthly to keep the good looking.Some people I heard say that this problem comes from the inside part of the lenses due to the high intensity bulbs.This is not true.If problem comes again or you know someone with the same problem,pass the voice. :D
  • tkaztkaz Posts: 69
    I don't have the yellowing effect with my '99 LHS headlights.But the low beams sure seem to be dim. High beams are fine. Do these bulbs get weak with time? 153K miles and still runnign strong.
  • Thanks for the recommendation. The first person I'll pass your solution along to is my Chrysler dealer at an upcoming service. They had recommended a 2-part liquid sold by the dealership. Didn't touch it and now I understand why. After I install the new lights I'll get some plexi polish from my local Kragen's and use it regularly.

    I'm still looking for a do-it-yourself guide to removal and replacement now that I have the new OEM headlights. Interestingly, the dealer cost was just shy of $900. including headlights, bulbs and installation.

    I now have 120,000+ miles on the car and it is still a great performer.

  • The Sylvania website - where I reviewed the SilverStar bulbs - and other sites says that bulbs do dim over time. Others may know more accurately than I do whether that is true or not.

  • A month ago, the friendly chirp my 300 emits when the car is locked died. Taking a quick look under the car I noticed the two high tone horns by the inside corners of the bumper. Both of those were working, and are triggered when the alarm is set off or when you press the horn on the steering wheel. Does anyone know where the low tone horn is located that “honks” when you lock/arm your car?
  • I have a 1999 300m. When the car is ideling the light comes on and when I start off it goes away as the rpms go up. It idles at like 500 at a stop light. It never makes any noises. I was told By Chrysler it is oil starvation and that it should make a growling noise. I took it to them and they can't duplicate the problem. It hasn't thrown any codes. Any help would be appreciated.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    There is no separate horn for the alarm arming chirp. It uses the same horn. You need to check your settings in your EVIC (if equipped) or OTIS (if possible). Follow the directions in your owner's manual to set it back up to chirp when you arm it.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Check your oil level. You're probably low. You might also need to do an oil system flush. There might be some clogged passages in your engine. How often do you change your oil and what type of oil do you use?
  • I take it to Chrysler for the oil changes and everything else. I change it every 3,000. I think I let it go 4000 once I was on a trip to Texas. But It got changed when I got home. So I don't know. It also had a Tune up done on it like a week ago. Could this be a reason for it to do this?
  • tkaztkaz Posts: 69
    Was ready to buy a pair of 9006XSST Sylvania Siverstar bulbs when I noticed the rated life time is 150 hours. Standard replacement bulbs, 9006XSLL are rated at 1500 hours. Anyone have short life problmes with the Silverstar?
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    It's a sad day! :( At 7:23am EST @ 46,388 miles, my 2002 Special performed the infamous Light Show! :cry: I thought I would be exempt, but I guess no 300M is safe. To twist a phrase from Star Trek: Generations, [The Light Show] is an enemy that stalks us all. :sick:
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    I have had pretty good luck with Stongard [on the net] headlight protectors on my 99M which is approaching 8 years old. Xpel also makes them. For about $53 you get clear covers for all forward facing lights that protects them from rock hits, etc. They guarantee them not to discolor, and my first set went 5 years before they started discoloring, and Stongard replaced them with no hassle. You might want to consider doing that once you get the clarity back up so you don't have to polish them every week. If you do get them get a second set of hands to help you put them on straight [at least with the headlight protectors], you only get one shot before the glue hits the plastic and they stick. :shades:
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Posts: 3,097
    My advice to you is to start drinking heavily...!

    '13 Jaguar XF, possibly my favorite of all the cars I've owned. But, my '09 Jag XK was a beauty, as was my '05 Acura TL, '88 Acura Integra, '84 Mitsubishi Mirage Turbo & '78 VW Scirocco (my first!). And, of course, the '92 Nissan Sentra SE-R and '95 Saab 900s I bought for the ex... Ok, I like a lot of the cars in my life.

  • Hi Board!

    After my 2000 Intrepid ES was stolen for Christmas, I went ahead and purchased a '99 300m--luv the car! Even at 85k, it's really fun to drive, looks great, and seemingly has no major issues .

    I was primarily checking you all out because the one exterior flaw to my almond joy is that blasted oxidation issues with only one headlight. (I read this entire sub-forum, and printed out the step-by-steps to sanding...) And although the given methods sounds like a winner, I'd really rather not do it; but paying $800 for a new one isn't fiscally an option for me. So there was a member who found someone ho just does this sort of thing for about $30? How did you find him? I'm in the DC/MD area, but would gladly pay someone to do it for me.

    Other surprises that I discovered after my haste to buy a vehicle...
    --all of my front speakers don't work, and my infinity tweeters have nothing in them.
    --no mats at all, be it driver, passenger, or rear.
    --no spare tire or donut.
    --no trunk net, and with such a large trunk, groceries play hid and seek with me.
    --ever now and then, my rear/brake lights will not go out. Initially, I thought I had some electrical problem, as my car needed a jump on two out of the eleven days that I've had the car. But, by accident, I discovered that it was the brake lights, and if I remember to physically lift it with my foot, I wont have the issue.

    So, any ideas? Specifically, how to go about finding someone to do my headlight, how to find the trunk net (it is supposed to have one, right?), whether I should try to find stock mats--or settle for after market cheap counterparts, and what I should do, if anything, about my brake-light situation.

    Thanks in advance, this forum is really informative. And I luv this car! :shades:
This discussion has been closed.