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Honda Odyssey Care and Maintenance



  • Hi,
    I h'v a 2010 odyssey EX-L that has done 4000 miles. I'm planning on a road trip that require me to drive over 1200miles. The oil range is aruond 80%. I would like to know if it is okay to do "maintenance A" before i start?

  • imoimo Posts: 16
    Oil change interval is around 7500 miles. I don't know how long your oil has been at the 80% mark, so let's say it's really at 85%.
    That means the oil can go for another 1125 miles (15% of 7500 miles).
    I think you can just take your trip and change the oil when you get back.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 25,367
    you have it backwards. It starts at 100%, and when it hits 15% you are supposed to go in for service. so if he got 4K out of 20%, he won't be prompted to go in for quite a while yet, so no problem at all with doing a 1200 mile jaunt.

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • hi my name is steve
    i have 2005 honda odyssey and i bought the vehicle back in january.
    i bought used certified vehicle with the extra cover warranty.
    which they they told me its bumper to bumper cover warranty. i paid extra
    $2000 for it and soon as we sign and finish the paper work. we left the tomwood honda
    dealership. we stopped the vehicle at the traffic and we find there is problem with the
    vehicle and when we drive the vehicle there is shaking problem. and we called dealership right away. and they told me that we can get that fix anywhere in U.S cover with the warranty.
    because we were had to New Jersey right next day.
    so we went to local honda service in new jersey. and they dynostic the vehicle they couldn't find
    anything wrong. they told that there is somthing wrong with the tires.
    but i knew that there no big problem with the tires.
    and right next day. the vehicle steeling wheel were to hard to turn. and i took it back to the honda service. and they told me that steeling wheel oil pump need replace.
    in 3days since i bought the used certified vehicle cost me that problem. and even better honda care won't cover with that warranty. because its used certified vehicle before "Tomwood Honda"
    should fix the problem before they sold the vehicle because its certified.
    but they actually reanverse the invoice to me 2weeks later.
    but they still didn't find the main problem. and now almost 3months later. my brake pad went out.
    and before that van was still shaking. and one day i took at get it oil change and they find out there somthing wrong with caliber on the brake that's why it cause that problem, shaking problem.
    honda service they actually test the van 3time they never could find the problem. in 10 min oil change guy find out that caliber its went out that why lock the brake system cause the shaking.

    so now i took it back to honda service and i told them that there is problem with caliber on the right hand side front passenger.
    and guy call me back in 5hours later they did find out caliber its went out. so they gonna fix it with the warranty and also they told me that my brake pad is also need to replaced.
    but i told them that the reason brake pads went out is because caliber. so honda should replace everthing. but they denied that. but i said its ok than just fix caliber for me.
    and guy told me that they get that ready in 2days.
    but rgiht next day they call me honda's not gonna cover with that warranty. because caliber went out because that brake pads.
    so what they trying to do here. is make customer pay everthing for it.
    and before i want a ask question we almost got in to big accident because that problem.

    and my question is Tom Wood honda fiance maneger actully lie to us that warranty is cover bumper to bumper.
    what should i do with this situation?
    should i sue the dealership and honda care?
  • Wear parts aren't usually covered by "warranties" of any kind. Brakes, tires, alignments, light bulbs and the like are normally exempt from secondary warranties.

    However, if you've had this only 3 months and appear to have a brake issue in such a short time, then this defect should have been caught if this was a HONDA CERTIFIED USED CAR. If this was a HONDA CERTIFIED USED CAR, then you need to contact Honda directly to get this resolved.

    You should remain polite with the whole thing or else you won't get anywhere. Collect all of your paperwork, make records of all phone conversations, and copies of all letters.

    You need to actually read all of your contracts and warranties to understand what your rights are.

    Are you sure you have a Honda Extended warranty? I've never heard of Honda denying a claim when a Honda Dealer submits the repair.

    Good luck.
  • crandocrando Posts: 1
    I have a V6 Accord and I believe it is at 105,000 miles for changing a timing belt.
    I just bought a 2007 Odyssey EX-L-RES with 68,800 miles. I went to
    and developed a service record profile. As you have noticed, Honda is not forthcoming with the schedule. I found the following schedule at this location that states that for years 2000 and newer, change belt every 90k. The 60k statement from what I have found is for extreme conditions.

    The previous owner did an outstanding job maintaining this vehicle and I hope to do the same since I plan on keeping it a while. My 1999 V6 Accord has 228k miles and gets about 24.5 mpg. I have a 2003 Pilot that has 185k miles that I will be selling soon. We have three little kids and the interior of the pilot has been put through the ringer. About 4 hours of scrubbing and detailing should brighten it up.
  • dougmgdougmg Posts: 13
    Recently my Odyssey has had a host of problems. The catalytic converter failed, cd player failed, it leaks. Now both of the sliding doors will not remain open. This is an intermittant problem. They fail to catch the latch mechanisms I guess. Anyone have this problem? Any recommendations? It has 31K on it, so is still under warranty.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    I need to replace the OEM Michelins on my '07 Ody EX. Good tires, but they get noisier as they wear.

    Several of you have recommended Yoko Avid Tourings in the past. I see there is also a Yoko Avid TRZ. Is there much difference between the two? I'm looking for a good all-season tire. I put snow tires on the front in the winter (please don't start yelling at me about the 2 vs. 4 tires thing - already been there/done that on this site).

    Any other recommendations?

    Thanks! :-)

  • jjpcatjjpcat Posts: 122
    Bought it new and it has only 17k miles. The first battery was dead 3 months ago with lots of blue residue around the + terminal. Bought a new battery from Pepboys and they cleaned the terminal.

    Lots of the blue residue is now back on the + terminal. The battery is down to 11.5V, with battery connected and all devices shut. Turn the engine on, the voltage is 13.5V. So I assume the alternator is good and the battery is fair.

    So I tried to figure out what caused the damage to the battery. I suspected there is current leakage. So I park the van overnight with all devices shut, remove the cable from the - terminal, and insert my multimeter inline. It's over 100mA (my multimeter maxout at 100mA). So my questions are:

    1. Is this the correct procedure to test the leakage?
    2. What's the normal current reading? I think >100mA is way way too high. Shall it be 0 when all devices are shut?
    3. Do you think my battery is damaged by this current leakage?

    I took my van to a shop with very good reputation. They claimed they found nothing wrong with my van, even though they admitted there's leakage.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 25,367
    3+ years ago I think the TRZ was all that was available in the size/load range.

    they are similar I believe, but the TRZ is T rated, and I believe a higher load range (the ody is about a 103 IIRC). basically a heavier duty tire.

    they may have the avid tourings now in the right size and load range though. Thankfully, my TRZs are going to last 2x what the crappy OEM michelins did.

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • dtran67dtran67 Posts: 4
    Did you figure out the problems with the misfire. I have a 2000 Odyssey. I was a great van until the misfire.
  • ben70ben70 Posts: 16
    No problems until dealer performed the recall. None. After the recall was performed all the brake fluid leaked out. After stopping the leak and bleeding the pedal is soft. Honda service really screwed up our Odyssey and now they tell me that the soft pedal is normal. We have to pump the brakes to stop. Have an appointment with a local independent garage to have the repairs done at my own expense; whatever it costs I'll pay. I can't put my family at jeopardy. After this fiasco I won't be using Honda's incompetent service department in the future.
  • Hi, I have a 2009 EX-L, and drive it in town mostly. My freeway driving is limited to flat roads in SoCal. I know the Ody is a heavy vehicle, but I was very surprised to find that my 2 year old vehicle needed the rotors resurfaced and front brakes pads replaced at 32K. The problem I'd been experiencing was that it shuddered violently when I braked on the freeway. The tech told me that this was a "normal" complaint (!) and just meant I needed to have my rotors resurfaced and brake pads replaced. He told me I was lucky that my car had lasted so long (!) . He said brake pads get replaced and rotors resurfaced on a "normal" ODY anywhere from 12K to 20K - this is not a warranty covered action.

    I told him that my old Sienna went much longer and he said it was likely that was true, because the ODY is a "very heavy car yet people drive it for everyday" (DUH)

    I'm wondering what other people's experience has been? I'm considering trading in the car, because it seems ridiculous and somewhat dangerous to own. Does anybody own the 2010 or 2011 ODY and have these problems? Is it an overall Honda problem? The tech seemed to suggest it was, even pulling up his own Pilot records to show me that he had his brake pads replaced at 20K.
  • My wife has the 2006 model, and yes we have had to do the same thing. New rotors and brakes due to violent vibration when braking at highway speeds. We might have gotten to 25 or 30 k miles before we had to do it.

    In addition, we have found out that because we did not have the work done at a Honda dealer, there may be a problem with the master cylinder. There is a campaign to have the master cylinder replaced.

    I think the weight issue is bogus. I honestly think it is a design defect of some kind. Either the rotors aren't large enough, or a problem with the anti-lock braking system. The rotors are warping, and this just should not happen with regular driving.
  • azkid2azkid2 Posts: 47
    I do very little stop and go driving with my 2008 EX_L. I had the front brake rotors turned and new pads at 75k miles. The pads were still 40% good, but changed anyway.

    Click and Clack the Tappett Brothers on NPR say easy starts and gentle stops save a lot of wear and tear on vehicles. Try to drive as "far ahead" as possible and slow down and try to coast to a stop when practical. Everyone drives differently and "YMMV".
  • svemurisvemuri Posts: 5

    I have 2007 Honda Odyssey EX-L with 45000 miles. Currently, it is showing maintenance minder A1, which amounts to Oil Change.

    My question is

    Should I get complete 45000 service, which is about 200$, which includes oil change, transmission fluid change and other checks/refills.


    Get the oil changed now and respond to next service minder when it shows up ?

  • hondaoddityhondaoddity Posts: 25
    edited August 2011
    If you haven't had the trans fluid done yet, I would do it if it is part of the 45,000 mile service. I try to do them every 25,000. (I also have that done at the dealer. If something goes wrong, it's on them to make it right.) It's far cheaper than $2000+ for a new transmission.

    I really don't like this "guessing game" maintenance stuff. I'm too old school. Tell me what mileage it needs to be done on and I will take care of it.
  • svemurisvemuri Posts: 5
    I changed transmission fluids at 30,000 miles. A non-dealer shop that specializes only in Honda/Acura (Honda Acura Connection, San Jose, CA), say that I can wait for 60,000 for next change.

    But, the dealer shop always push me to change the transmission saying it is dirty/discolored.

  • mthimthi Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    Have '03 Odyssey with the remote horn signal not working. I saw 2 owners with this issue but can not find any answers to correct this problem. Anyone have and answer?
  • Had the same difficulty and suspected a 3rd screw. Thanks to this post I knew what was going on. I used a length of thin nylon webbing from a tie-down strap to get a hold of the forward edge of the lens housing without chipping the paint. Just push the webbing into the thin gap along the forward edge / corner of the lens and you have a good way to pull right near the stubborn fastener.
  • nit2nit2 Posts: 40
    edited March 2012
    I have 67k miles on my 2003 Odyssey. About 2 months back I noticed that at 55 - 60 mph, my Odyssey started to show a distinct jiggle in the ride. Not noticeable it at lower speeds. So I had all 4 wheels aligned. The garage told me that the alignment was really off. When they did the alignment, they rotated the 4 tires - front-to-back. All seemed good.
    Ten days later, I noticed that at 55 mph, the steering wheel exhibited a different type of jiggle and I realized that my left rear tire was missing the weight that would be there to balance the tire. So I had all 4 wheels re-balanced and test-drove the car on the highway at 55 - 60 mph and all seemed good.
    Less than a week later, I noticed that when I start from a zero, there is a slow jiggle (shimmy?) coming from the steering wheel. At 55mph the jiggle is very noticeable and I get a sound that coincides with the jiggle and appears to be coming from somewhere beneath the car - not the smooth sound I used to hear when all was well. I also notice that to drive straight ahead, the I need to keep the steering wheel turned about 5 or 8 degrees turned to the left.
    Has anyone come across this? Any suggestions?
    Thanks in advance.
  • It is possible your alignment was not done 100% correctly. All steering boxes have sweet spot that is "straight". Typically it is when the center of the steering wheel is "level". It sound like your steering wheel might have been turned when they did your alignment. The wheels might be set correctly, but if the wheel was turned when it was done, then the vehicle is going to want to travel (drift) either left or right depending on how the wheel was turned during the alignment. If you are finding yourself fighting the steering wheel to keep the car going straight, that is the problem.

    The shop should have a tool that rests on the driver's seat and pins the steering wheel to keep it where you want it.

    Another possibility, though unlikely, is the cotter pin was removed (broken) from the spindle/disc nut and the disc and wheel are working their way off the spindle. I did have this happen once when I had my discs replaced. The idiot mechanic never put a cotter pin through the nut and spindle and my wheel and disc were literally bouncing around back and forth on the spindle. Fought to have them pull the wheel and still never got an apology for the dangerous situation they put my family in. And, no, I did not go back.

    Either way, something is definitely not right with your front end.

    Good luck
  • nit2nit2 Posts: 40
    hondaoddity, many thanks for the reply. Very helpful!
  • I ended up with an ugly, deep gash on my glove box and decided to replace it. The glove box itself only took a few minutes to replace but I need get the lock cylinder out of the old glove box and into the new one.

    I don't see any retainer to release when I peek under the latch and am at a loss.

    Can anyone help?

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