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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair



  • I haven't noticed an increase in oil consumption probably since I take my pf to have the oil changed for me, regularly. However, just the other day the engine started make a very loud knocking sound. I made it home and parked it. Called the Mobile repair guy. He came right over. The first thing he did was check the oil and told me that I was a quart low. I had the oil changed 3 mos. ago. He put a quart in and it was full. He told me not to drive it and tow it to the dealer, so I did. The next day the dealer told me that it was low on oil. I told them it couldn't be and why. He said the technician said it was low and looked for oil leaks and found none. So where is this oil going? Needless to say, they don't know what is wrong with the engine but that it is major. What happened to nissan quality? It also had the service engine soon light problem and the exhaust leak that so many have talked about on this list. If I could go back, I would have bailed out on this pf 2 years ago and cut my losses then.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,961
    Can the 16 from a 2004 with the stock tires go on a 97 without any issues? I need tires and get get the tires and rims off of an 04 for 300. The seller is negotiable and says that the tired have 75% tread left.
  • edbbedbb Posts: 2
    97 PF LE with 168,000 km( 100,000 miles). Recently took it in for 100K mile check. Dealer reported all OK except noisy upper strut bearings ($330 Cdn) and need to replace both front stabilizer links($169 Cdn). I do not notice any noise ( might be my hearing or just used to it) and PF seems quite stable and smooth.
    Is this repair justified/prudent? I do not do any off-roading except for minor use of dirt boat ramps.
    Dealer has always been good to me, but there's always a first time.
  • It's hard to say without examining the car in person, but it's probably not an urgent repair. If you trust the dealer that much, ask what risk there might be to not spending the $ at this time.
  • I had similar problems with my rotors, and rotors on other vehicles. Some of it is a symptom of automakers trying to use lighter rotors for better performance and lower cost. It is critical all lug nuts be hand torqued to proper torque any time a wheel is removed (and follow proper pattern too, just like they taught us in driver ed).

    I also discovered a secondary cause recently. If you do a hard braking, either from highway speed to a stop light or maybe a panic stop; the rotors obviously get very hot. The hot rotors can melt/burn the brake pad material causing a small micro-layer of friction material on your rotor. This is a combination of the heat from the rotor and the type of pad. If you look at your shiny rotor and see a rectangular shadow or mark on the rotor, then this is likely some of the cause for the warped rotor sensation. To prevent this, avoid a hard stop and then sitting with your foot on the brake. You need to ease forward a little to keep the pads from "sticking" to the rotor while they are screaming hot...

    Very light coatings can sometimes be removed with sandpaper, but they will come back if you don't get a better pad. Something like a Hawk pad is a good choice, I am experimenting with Performance Friction since it was available local. I would avoid generic OEM stuff from brake shops unless you have good performance history.

    Mine was so bad, I replaced rotors and pads. Now I will see if it comes back or not.

    Since a lot of this problem is driving habit-based, automakers/dealers cover the issues at their own discretion.
  • My son has a '99 Pathy and is currently experiencing the same problem-no dash air.
    I don't know about the lighter , wiper, etc. but, I imagine they don't work either. Is there
    a ready solution?
  • Fixed.. As these cars are getting older the (single core) radiator on our car had become restricted. When just about to boil over, I shut the motor and placed my hands on the inside middle of the radiator and it was basically cold outer edges where hot. Replaced the rad it with a new one (@$130 vs. having it boiled/cleaned).

    Make sure the rad cap is not clogged (cheap replace it) also to allow the collant recovery tank to work properly

    Note- limited heat flowing from the middle of the rad makes the clutch for the clutch fan real lazy.

    Hope this helps others with this problem. Mark
  • Fully loaded all pkg's

    1st problem, when I ease my foot on the accelerator at around 40/45 mph or accelerate, the tranny upshifts & downshifts noisily.
    Dealer says normal.
    2nd problem, almost since new, bad creaking sound rear right on take off. Getting worse.
    Dealer can hear it, but does not know what is causing it. I'm stuck with it.
    3rd problem, really, really noisy windshield wipers, sometimes vibrating on screen.
    Dealer changed blades, once made no difference. Now says normal.
    4th problem, here in Sth Florida, the screen demist does not work well at all. Try all settings/combinations.
    Have not told dealer, he is not interested in other problems, see no point in adding more.

    Had I known: that the 4x4 was unusable, except in sand or snow, Plus needs Premium gas, I would never have bought this truck.
    Reg. Frank R.
  • khurramkhurram Posts: 15
    I think your heat shield may be lose. Get a auto clamp from any auto store and tighten it to check.
    Switching to synthetic will make the engine smoother.
    blades, maybe not the rubber but the steel may be bent a bit, that is how my mechnanic fixed mine.
    premium gas, you can use reg for a while.
  • I have a 92 Nissan Pathfinder that has had the same problem off and on for a few years. It does not want to idle. At idle, the RPMs will go up and down and eventually it will stall out. I took it to the mechanic and they said the plugs needed changed, so they did that. It now has less than 2000 miles on it and the same problem is back. When it starts doing this, it will also get very bad gas mileage. If I change the fuel filter it seems to help for a while, but the rough idling and bad gas mileage will come back. Any ideas? 2000 mi on plugs, new fuel and air filter. Thanks.
  • jeg72jeg72 Posts: 18
    I have a 01 LE 4x4 and have had some ongoing cooling system problems. Nov of 2006 it overheated. Took it to the dealership in Madison, AL and they flushed the cooling system, replaced the thermostat, new fluid. 3-4 months later I got home from work and heard the antifreeze boiling. Took it to the dealership where they replaced the radiator and all the hoses. Now 6 months later I smelled antifreeze on the way to work. When I got out of the car I heard a hissing sound. I guess I am taking it back to the dealer for the third time. Any thoughts?
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 382
    It's possible the hissing sound could have nothing to do with the cooling system. Are you familiar with the noises your evaporative emissions control system occasionally makes? If you do have a coolant leak somewhere, you will likely be low on coolant. If the hissing noise is is a coolant leak, it could be coming from any one or more of many different or the shop simply need to find it. When you thought you heard the antifreeze boiling, was the temperature gauge out of it's normal range? If not, I'm wondering if the radiator replacement was really needed and/or if there was really anything wrong at that point. Keep in mind if you do have a coolant leak, it may have nothing to do with the previous repairs, and may just be a coincidence. Have you regularly changed your coolant since the vehicle was new per the owner's manual? If not, you can expect all kinds of repetitive problems, not only with the cooling system itself, but with other systems the coolant touches such as sensors, etc. Replacing the coolant now probably won't solve all the long term damage that may have been done.
  • khurramkhurram Posts: 15

    If anyone can tell me if it is possible to do the pathfinder oil change without lifting the car. It is high, so can easily get in.

    Also, a link to the easiest instructions on how to do it.

    Thanks very much.
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 382
    You didn't mention which model year you have. I can tell you at least on the 2001-2004 model years, it's easy given how high the bottom of the engine is off the ground. To access the oil filter, there's a large plastic protective cover that you will need to remove. It's held on by approximately 8 sheet metal screws. Your owner's manual will likely show the location of the oil drain plug and the oil filter. You will want to replace the crushable washer on the oil drain plug.
  • spot2spot2 Posts: 15
    I have a '92 SE Pathifinder. The clutch release cylinder, the slave cylinder, seems to have started leaking. I had alook and it seems to be fairly inaccesable? Is it a tough job or does it just look harder than it actually is?
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    My 2001 Pathfinder is approaching 105,000 miles and new spark plugs. Anyone changed theirs on a 2001? Is it pretty straightforward or anything different on this vehicle?
  • I purchased a 2004 Pathfinder in July with 25,000 on it. Great deal I thought. I have only put about 8,000 on it. About 3 times now when I am driving the rpm will hit around 4,000 at 15 mph. Pedal all the way down. Dealer says he can't do anything about it because he can't "duplicate" the problem. How are they supposed to duplicate it with only putting 3 miles on it?! Then after I picked up the engine started chirping. Said idler pulley was bent, after they supposedly replaced that the noise came back and they said it was the belts were cracking due to the air dam missing and water hitting belts. I park it in a garage, where did that much water come from? When I first purchased it my interior lights would come on when I was driving and the horn would randomly honk. After 3 weeks of having no horn they finally said it was too long of screws in steering column. sounds like a load of crap to me. Is the pathfinder really this poorly put together?? I feel like I have gotten a lemon, but I was wondering if anyone else has had these problems and what they did to fix it or someway I can duplicate the tranny issue for them. I am driving my hubby's work truck because I don't feel safe is this SUV. I am paying monthly payments on something that sits. I am due to have a baby in less than 1 week and the dealership wants me to drive that around. Doesn't sound reliable to me. Thanks.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    My 2001 Pathfinder is approaching 105,000 miles and new spark plugs. Anyone changed theirs on a 2001? Is it pretty straightforward or anything different on this vehicle?

    Anyone? Wow I remember when my PF was new & this forum wasn't dead. :(
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 382
    Hi Smokey, how have you been? I asked the same question, and got no responses. Since I've seen things on newer cars that I'm not experienced with (coils on plugs, etc.), I let my trusted mechanic do the job. He's not cheap, but he does do good work, and keeps himself up to date on everything going on with new cars.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    So what would happen if one filled their front driveshaft with grease until the nipple wouldn't take anymore on a 2001 PF... or is that what you're supposed to do?
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 382
    Smokey, I've always filled mine until fresh grease appears at the cover...just the same as if you were greasing a ball joint, tie rod end, etc.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    I've always filled mine until fresh grease appears at the cover...just the same as if you were greasing a ball joint, tie rod end, etc.
    I'm not sure I understand what you mean. What cover will fresh grease appear at?
  • Any codes? Sounds like related to the idle airflow bypass or the temp controlled idle arm. is it a 3.3L V6?
  • I have a '95 XE with 101,000 miles and my plug foul almost instantly and there is a very strong gas smell under hood while cranking. There are no leaks and all of the plugs looked the same-very black, wet, and lots of fuel. I thought it maybe be a sensor telling FI that it was cold and to dump fuel but I can't find anything. Any help would be great thank you in advance.
  • Does the 1995 have an OBDII plug anywhere? I cant find one under the dash.
  • Hi
    Im tring my best to locate the fuel filter so that I can replace for sevicing.
    Can some body tell me where it is?
    Where is it located? :confuse:
  • Using 10/30 now, anybody know if 20/50 is recommended now (at 134,000 mi) ? Good idea? Personal experience etc??? Thanks!
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    I have a 2001 and don't have it with me to check but I seem to remember it's located underneath near the rear of the vehicle.
  • yes its near the rear driver side tire towards the center of the vehicle.
  • any one know how to take out torsion bars out
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