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Mazda Protegé



  • I have a 1999 Protege ES with 43K miles. Starting from 35k miles, I have heard some groaning sound from underneath of the car when driving at a speed under 35mph. I feel that the car is not old enough to have some problem in the suspension system, but can't be sure. How do you think?

    And strangely I could not find any information in the user's manual regarding when I should have the automatic transmission fluid replaced. When do you usually get the fluid changed?

    Many thanks.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    The short answer is yes. The longer answer is not until recently when Mazda standardized on one oil filter size for all of its 4 cylinder and small 6 cylinder engines.
  • avuxavux Posts: 12
    My 2000 1.6 Protege has a thumping sound coming from tha air intake side of the engine when I tap on the accelerator or the AC cycles on. It only thumps one time. It also has a rough idle on cold startups. Could this be a leaking intake manifold? The car has 34k miles on it.
  • manavimanavi Posts: 150
    I had a similar problem once with a 2000 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab I used to own. It turned out to be a bad bearing.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    You can use the same filter on the 1.6 as spec'd for the 2.0 and the 4 and 6 cyl engines on the 626. But, as pointed out, Mazda now uses the same filter for all the above. However, you can still get the larger V6 filter for the 626 from aftermarket brands. That's what I use now with synthetic oil (I found the smaller filter seemed to reach capacity at around 3,000 miles, the larger one at about 5,000-6,000 miles, depending on the driving conditions). The longer cycle syncs better with the longer wear of the synthetic oil.
  • mazdafun,

    How did you determine oil filter mileage capacity?
  • Since our Pro's are running trouble free and most of you have little to talk about in the maint. dept, perhaps someone will answer a couple of q's for me. (I'm mechanically illiterate). When I took my 98 Escort (that's almost a Mazda I think) in to Meineke to get the brakes checked, I noticed the mech. had to bash the tires with a mallet to get it off. He said whoever was balancing my tires (Firestone) was not using the kind of extension socket that he was using, which he told me would guarantee not to overtighten. However when I took the car back to Firestone the next day to get the tires rotated, I noticed the guy there had to beat on the tire a couple of times to get it off. So Q1: What does one have to watch for in getting wheels rotated as far as the tightening of the lug nuts??

    The Meineke guy showed me the rotor thickness on his caliper and pointed to the book that said they were way below specs. So I OK'd a new pair of rotors. Q2: What happens if you let the rotors get below specs (pads were fine and I didn't feel any problems in braking). BTW cost for two rotors and pads was around 350.

  • I think that 'center-weighted' feel of the PRO's steering is a desirable in my mind. BTW I have aan 03 Camry V6 and I don't think its over-boosted it has plenty of road feel too. However when I took a trip to the mountains this weekend I chose the PRO!!
  • too thin rotors are more likel to warp from heat and also might make the calipers work beyond their optimal geometry.

    As far as tightening wheel lugs, if it's done by hand, it's almost always OK. I've never had a problem with a wheel I handtightened and have never used a torquewrench to do it. Power drivers very often overtighten and can lead to wheel warping. I once used an 8' length of pipe on the end of a lugwrench and still couldn't break the nut free. It did, howver, look really stupid. Fortunately, it wasn't my car.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I don't know why so many places get it wrong. They should be using torque sticks on their air-tools to prevent over-torque. They simple do not take the time to make sure the sticks are set correctly or are not using them.
  • Every 30,000 miles.....

  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    Hello everyone! I see you are still helping others. I think it will be at least another 30 months before my Pro hits 30,000 miles, it's just below 16K now.

  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586

    Your PRO is still new after 2 years :)

  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    I just "eyeball" the oil when I check the level. If it starts looking dark and maybe a little "gritty" (little specks of what look to be solids), then I figure it's getting time for an oil change. Usually, this is quite a noticeable change from the last time I checked my oil. Usually my oil stays nice and amber (more so with the synthetic I think...I switched to synthetic sometime the winter of 95-96); the darkening occurs rapidly when I think the filter needs replacing (I think a pressure-triggered rubber-like valve interal to the filter allows oil to bypass the filter material). This is the metric I have been using and seems to work for me (140k+ miles on my '89 323LX and 45k+ on my '99 Pro LX).
  • hey folks just bought one today 03 pro es
    auto,6-disk-cd-moonroof pack,abs-airbag pack,
    compass mirror, 17500.00 out the door includes 2500.00 reabate. also considered a 2004 civic ex coupe but the pro es had more features for the money, better warranty, and the 2500 rebate. which is the better car`the civicex or the pro es, even though the civic does get better milaege and might have better
    resale value as well.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Glad you finally made your choice, and hope it serves you well for years to come. Congrats on the new purchase.
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586

    Take good care of it as far as maintenance goes and it will make you smile over and over.

  • I know I have had some of you point me in the general direction before, but I crawled under the car as best I could and tried to find it. Anyone with a tip on which side to look? Passenger side? Is it amidships or closer to the ground level? I know it has a miniscule filter because the FRAM or Motorcraft book specified the same filter as that of an Aspire which is a thimble too. (Had the same problem finding the filter on that one, but it was easy to reach from the top once you knew where to look). Thanks.
  • We bought at about the same time I believe. My 01 ES has 21.8K. No problems, still looks new and the Dunlop 5000's still look good..
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    It's closer to the passenger side. You have to reach up from the bottom of the car and towards the front to get to it.
  • steven39steven39 Posts: 636
    the main selling point me choseing the pro es
    over the 04 civic ex was features. pro es has 4 wheel disks- better stereo 6-disk cd, better warranty, and much better handling plus service loaner cars for warranty repairs. dealer even throw in first free oil change at 3500 miles.and there is one` more major option that came standard with the pro es that does not come with the civic es and that is 100% MADE IN JAPAN!!!!
  • forlopforlop Posts: 7
    I purchased this extra remote keyless entry key from ebay. But I couldn't find programming instruction for it. Does anyone know where to get it? Thanks.
  • Interesting enough, the other day I contacted Mazda USA regarding the maintenance of automatic transmission fluid, and was told that there is no suggested service schedule for Protege from the manufacture. They just recommend to have a dealer inspect the fluid during every major checkup, and then decide whether the fluid should be replaced.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I'll take a lot at the service manual and let you know if I come up with anything.
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    1. Open driver's door
    2. Turn the key to on position (not ACC, but ON)
    3. Turn the key off and REMOVE it.
    4. Repeat the last 2 steps two times removing the key each time. Keep the key out.
    5. Press the light switch in the door (that turns the light off when the door closes) three times.
    6. There should be a chime similar to when your seatbelt is not fastened. (Mine did not chime but the door locks went down)
    7. Press the lock button on your remote two times.

    Let us know if it works!

  • forlopforlop Posts: 7
    This is another wonderful thing about owning a protege. I always can get help here. I will let you know how it goes when I receive the remote. Thanks again.
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,868
    Picked up my Protege LX last night. Silver, auto, ABS-Airbag pkg., Sunroof-CD changer pkg., cassette player.
    Where can I buy accessories for the best price? Cargo net, cargo tray, etc..
    So far the only surprise has been the maintenance requirements being more extensive than I expected. Maintenance is required more often and looks as if it may be more costly than the maintenance on my VW Golf TDI. The much lower purchase price should balance out the maint. cost.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    There is no way the maintenance would be more costly on the Protege than the VW. Not from my experience anyway. Of course, I had a 1.8t and not a TDI.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    A few places that sell Mazda parts and accessories at a discount include:

    Maintenance is pretty cheap on Mazdas in general compared to the Jeeps and VWs I have owned in the past. I hope you enjoy your new Protege.
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