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Mazda Protegé



  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    I had one on my (older) Pro - made a world of difference, combined with the lower profile tires and light wheels I put on at (almost) the same time.

    And you can do a lot better than 99 - look on ebay for used ones, or non-Mazda ones. Mine cost under 30 shipped, and the finish and quality were very high - yes, it didn't have the cool look and interesting cross-sectional profile of the Mazda one, but IF its 25mm sphero-ellipsoidal cross section was THAT effective, I shudder to think how much better the Mazda one needs to be to justify triple the price :)
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    Yeah - manufacturers (and Mazda in particular, if they want to be serious about this 'sporty' image ;) ) should chose their performance tires more carefully!

    I loved my Falkens on my Pro, and having driven one of the newer Pros with the Dunops, I can say they were equivalent in the dry, and (going anecdotally for the Dunlops, my own experience with the Falkens) around 74,391 times better in the rain and snow.

    And when Mazda decides to NOT use performance tires, they use solid rock-like tires (All Season Michelins on my 6) that hop and bounce (especially on turns under torque) even when its slightly wet and slip and slide when its wetter. Ugh!

    Mazda, just cause the Michelin MX4 is good enough for Honda/VW or even Audi, doesn't make it good enough for a Mazda!
  • Found on eBay:

    99-02 MAZDA PROTEGE JDM FRONT STRUT TOWER BAR is priced at $10? - gory=33591&item=2449373247&sspagename=rvi%3A1%3A1

    How can that be? Little worried about that too-good-to-be-true price.
  • Isn't JDM at all, that's just tricky marketing.

    The fact that it is only connected at two of the four strut tower bolts at the sides would completely cross that bar off my list.

    I for one would go for the tried and proven OEM bar for 99 bucks than to risk performance for "style" because it's cheaper.
  • Hi, I thought I'd post this here since there seems to more discussion on it.

    I've got the price of a new 03 lx down to $11,900 from a local dealer. Is this a good deal? I was the one who posted an earlier message saying I had been offered $12,500...after waiting a few days, the dealer called back and reduced the price.
    The lx is an automatic has the abs/air bag and moonroof/6-cd package.
    Tax is $873 and doc fees are $160. They're also charging me something called govt. fees at $15.
    So the total out the door price is $12, 956.
    Should i go for it?

    Thanks for any advice...appreciate your time.
  • I figured it was a bit shady just based on the price and dubious JDM moniker.

    I'll shop around, check some forums to see what others are buying and from where.
  • speedyptspeedypt Posts: 200
    Whether you drive a Protege, Mazda3 or any other vehicle, all the best to you and your family!

    Holiday Regards,

  • Just took the Protege round trip from LA to Vegas, including through the big storm that ripped up San Bernardino wiht high winds and pouring rain.

    The car was very comfortable for most of the trip, though wind noise was high on the return trip (40+ MPH winds hitting us head-on). Going up the car was very quiet at 75MPH with wind noise not at all annoying.

    In the wind and rain the car tracked well and was very stable, though I did keep it slow. All-in-all, a very pleasurable car for the drive, and my wife felt very safe and secure in it.
  • chiyochiyo Posts: 18
    Hi all!

    My 02 protege LX auto is acting strangely. My car is at 30,600 miles. I haven't done the 30,000 maintenance yet [I had 800 mile round trip, it hit 30,000 on the way]. The last service was oil change 3500 miles ago.

    When I drive, it feels like my car is lacking some push. For example, I was entering a fairly stiff-hilled highway entrance. When I use this ramp, under normal condition, my car revs at about 3 rpm and it slowly reaches 60mph. Yesterday, it revved at 3.5 but it could only reach 40 mph and would not accelerate with some more foot. Also, the O/D OFF light came on, even though I did not touch that button. Today same problem happened, but the O/D OFF light did not came on. Once I reached flat road, the car was able to reach 60 mph at 2.5rpm. But when I tried to get my car to go at 70 mph, the rev needle would rapidly move to about 5 and come back while making some engine noises, but the speed would not increase at all. The car seems to rattle a bit at 10-20 mph also.

    I am guessing it's transmission problem, so I was thinking about bringing it to dealer. I think I still have some warranty left. But would Mazda say that my warranty is void they can't apply the warranty because I'm 600 miles past the maintenance?

    I am planning to go to Mazda tomorrow, but I need some advise.
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    (not sure about your problem, Chiyo...maybe somebody else here knows the answer)

    Happy holidays to me...the day before Christmas, I received my six-month insurance bill from Allstate.

    Thanks to a speeding ticket this summer, I now pay $1700 for six months on my '00 ES.

    Happy New Year, everybody!!


  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    They don't do anything with the transmission at the 30k service, so I don't see how they can use that against you. Plus, you were mid-trip.

    Sounds like an issue with the transmission. Probably a sensor going bad.

    Definitely take it in. At the very least, to have them log it into their records on your vehicle.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    Man, that bites. So, how many years good behavior do you need for that to go away?

    Anyways, have a happy new year. :)
  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    In my sleepy stupor after a day of skiing on Saturday I put a nice 14" scratch down my door with my ski pole. Of course it has to be right where I put my hand every day to get in the car so I can think about it all the time!

    Dale: Geesh, if I had to pay $3400 per year for insurance I wouldn't be driving. The worst I ever had was $2000/year on my CRX. I was 18, had 1 ticket, and they considered it a sports car since it had only 2 seats.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    ask the dealer to check out:

    1. spark plugs and wires
    2. ignition coil
    3. Leaky intake manifold gasket
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    Due to their newest vehicles: 2, 3, 6, 8. Glad to see them on the upswing.
  • I test drove a Mazda 3 sedan with the 2.0 liter engine and automatic (the base car, not the S). I was expecting similar sporty character to the Protege, but was dissappointed that despite the aggressive look, the 3 was almost generic.

    Don't get me wrong, the car is fast, handles well and is much improved over the Protege in terms of NVH, but it just doesn't seem to enjoy being a car as much as the old one does.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    I can't confirm as I didn't test-drive any 3 (just sat in them...couldn't see out well enough to drive any).
  • I test drove a Mazda3 about a month ago, and I too, wasn't all that impressed. I have a 2000 SE with the 1.6L engine and the 2.3L Mazda3 really didn't feel anymore zippy than mine, despite a 60+ horsepower and torque advantage.

    What I've always loved about the Protege is the stripped-down feel of the car, you feel every groove and bump in the pavement and the tight handling lets you have a lot of fun tossing the car around city streets. The Protege is a little flimsey on the highway and I'm sure the more substantial Mazda3 beats the Protege in this realm, but lets face it, highway driving is boring as hell, I want a zippy city car. The Mazda3 has a much more muted connection to the road, the downside of it moving up market.

    I have a Mazda dealer down the street from my apartment and they have about 20 Proteges still on the lot, I keep thinking I should pick one of the last Proteges
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    I couldn't think of any car I'd rather commute in if I lived in a congested area.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    "I have a 2000 SE with the 1.6L engine and the 2.3L Mazda3 really didn't feel anymore zippy than mine, despite a 60+ horsepower and torque advantage."

    That doesn't seem right. The 2.3L must've been running on 3 cylinders. The 2.3L in my heavier 6 is much more peppy than the 2.0L in my Protege. You should feel a huge difference between the 2.3L and the 1.6L.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    Though it's whether to pick up a P5. I really like my wife's '03 P5. But my '99 LX is still pretty good to me.
  • I have an 02 Protege ES with 16 in alloy wheels and dunlop P5000 sport tires. I would like to go to a 15 inch wheel and same Diameter tire to get it to ride better on these New England Back roads.The Dunlops are not very good in snow and they appear to have a short tread life. Plus I not use to paying $162 for a new tire. The 16in wheels have a 5 lug pattern. Any suggestions on wheel/tire combinations. Thanks
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    From what I found on Tire Rack, the '02 ES requires a 5x114 bolt pattern. Not sure about the offset, but the few I checked range from +42 to +45mm. Better check the clearance you'll need on the inside diameter for the brake calipers and anything else that might hit the inside of the wheel. It may pay to ask your friendly service dept what the specs are on the wheels.

    Then check what wheels fit those measurements. On, what pop up under 15in, 5x114.3mm are a bunch of steels (black and chrome finish...doubt you'd use a chromed steel one as they all seem to use zero offset) as well as alloys of many different offset values. On, you can search 15in wheels if you select a set of winter wheels & tires. They won't let you choose anything smaller than the stock 16in using their regular wheel search.

    I'd try to match the stock offset as closely as possible, without going under (I'm sure they pad it a little, but do you want to be knocking your brake calipers?). The more offset you have, the more tread wear you'll likely see on the insides of the tires, which may affect your car's handling (as the load is less evenly spread across the tread).

    Too bad you can't use the 15in wheels from an '00 ES. They seem to use a 4-lug pattern (4x100), from what I find on and
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    You might be able to talk them into selling you a set of smaller wheels without having to buy a set of winter tires.
  • chiyochiyo Posts: 18
    I took the car to the dealer, and the service advisor test-drove it. After a mechanic took a closer look, he decided that the transmission is slipping (he transmission could not transfer the engine power to the wheels, so the rpm would go up but the car would not accelerate).

    They're replacing the transmission, and I got a rent car until they replace it. This could have cost me $1800!

    (If anyone is interested, my car is 02 LX auto at 30,600 miles.)
  • Based on numbers, the 2.3L should blow the 1.6L out of the water, but "subjectively", it didn't feel all that more powerful. Maybe my expectations were too high, I thought that I'd be flocking to the dealer to get a Mazda3, but it wasn't enough of an improvement to give up the 2000 1.6L. I had a similar experience with the MINI Cooper S, another car that blows the 1.6L out of the water, but really didn't impress me all that much.

    Now, when I took a V6 Mazda6 through the Mazda Rev It Up track (and a few pylons), I was totally impressed!!!!
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    Good for you!

    What exactly was slipping, BTW? Just curious.
  • Hey all, I have a 2002 Mazda Protege ES with about 45k miles and the rear brakes have worn out. My front brakes are good condition. I have not had any brake work done on the car. It is all original. I have never heard of the rear brakes going before the front ones do. I am going to make an appointment with the dealer to bring it in to see if there is some defect with the calipers. I was told by the dealer that it should be covered by the warranty. Hope so. It is odd for the back brakes to go that soon. Has anyone had a similar experience?
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,868
    Probably the cold weather in Antartica caused the rear brakes to freeze up and wear out quickly.
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