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Mazda Protegé



  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    But you can't go wrong with a Diehard from Sears. And there are Sears everywhere.
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    Hey, Jim--

    Ditto what Calvin said.

    On Hank's advice, I got a Sears DieHard Gold a couple years ago...I think it was about $80 installed.

    Even given our temp extremes here in the Windy City, it's been doing fine.

    Good luck!

  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    The November 2005 issue of Consumer Reports has a spread on batteries including quite a few recommendations as well as useful tips to choose a battery. Walmart's Everstart seems like an especially good value.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    talk about EVERYWHERE. If you trust the quality, you can't go wrong there. I'd still buy a Diehard though.
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    I was searching on the web this afternoon, checked Sears DieHard. Can't believe I need a new battery at only 24,250 miles, but it's also four and half years old. May be the sudden change to colder weather. I couldn't restart the engine with the headlights on the other evening, thought it might be time.

    Funny thing about the change in the weather: the car coughs and won't start, I seem to be getting a chest cold and my dog has a cough and can't bark. Is spring far away?

    One other thing, do you lose the onboard computer settings when they change the battery, speedo reading?

    aka Jim
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Batteries need to be replaced by age, not mileage, and that sounds like about the right lifespan from what I've seen. And yes, the battery has to work harder to start the car in cold weather, so that is definitely a factor.

    I'm sure a Protege owner knows the answer to your last question.

    Good luck with it.
  • Re "One other thing, do you lose the onboard computer settings when they change the battery, speedo reading?"

    No to that Jim
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    ...Pat_HOST and Alternator. I figured it was age related probably, not holding a charge. Well, off to Sears tomorrow.

    Funny, the last time I had this problem it was the "alternator", 1977 Audi Fox, three bad alternators in one week. Never buy Factory Refurbs. As soon as they got it running again I traded for a Mazda GLC (1981). And what didn't work on that car? The heater. Sound familiar?

  • Paraphrasing the Protege Shop manual:


    Remove in the order indicated
    Install in the reverse order of removal

    1 Negative battery cable
    2 Positive battery cable
    3 Battery clamp
    4 Battery box (cover)
    5 Battery
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    Got the DieHard WeatherHandler. This morning I started the car and drove it for 40 minutes to charge the battery up, hopefully. Then three hours later when starting it to go to Sears it just barely started. I needed a battery today!

    Better than getting stuck somewhere, I don't have a cell phone, no roadside assistance plan, and if the police call wrecker service it costs three-times more than if I call. In NC that's $120. Ouch!

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You're lucky you had some warning. The last time my battery died, everything had worked perfectly -- right up until it didn't work at all. :)

    Glad you got it resolved.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    It's what I used in my '89 323 and currently use in my '99 Pro LX. Of course, I also back-shop to get as fresh a battery as I can find (lead-acid cells don't recover from deep drains, just like Li-ion cells).

    Even if I don't have a problem, I change them out every 5 years. Ditto for the tires.

    I can't believe my Pro is almost 7 years old. Other than needing a bath (and that annoying EGR valve), she's in pretty good shape.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Sorry, I joined the conversation late. A DieHard Gold went in my wife's 2002 Protege5 a couple of weeks ago. Funny, my 2000 Protege never needed a replacement battery even after five winters!

  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    My battery will likely be due for a refresh next winter, so I'd like to benefit from your experience regarding the Everstart.

    Do you know the size/model that fits the P5?
    Did you have it installed at Walmart?
    Anything to watch out for?
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    The part number is 35-3 (size code 35), same as what fits the sedan.

    I installed it myself. It's pretty easy. Lugging the batteries back and forth is the hardest part. You get your deposit (if you need to leave one) back once you turn in your old battery.

    Don't overtighten the restraining strap, as doing so may crack the battery's case. I clean out the battery pan while I have the battery out. I also clean out the battery terminal clamps with a wire brush and inspect the cables for cracked insulation or conductors. Once the terminal clamps are installed, I spray them with some wax (I think it's called battery terminal protector or something like that) to prevent corrosion. I'd wear dry leather gloves and safety glasses, just in case.

    You'll probably have to reset your radio presets, clock etc. as you'll have the battery disconnected for at least a few minutes.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Thanks Chow-Chi! That was very helpful. :)

    Do you use anything (like baking soda) to clean the battery pan?

    Fortunately, mine can wait until the spring/summer when there isn't any snow; snow can present some problems in an uncovered work area. :surprise:
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    No, I just remove the dry dirt, then wipe with a few moistened paper towels.

    If the previous battery leaked, I'd wipe it out with towels. If I suspect some ran out of the tray, or if the tray was also cracked, I'd rinse out the area with a generous amount of water, gently flowing out of a hose.

    Yeah, I definitely prefer doing work on my car when I don't have to defrost my fingers every five minutes (I hate mid-winter oil changes...I prefer to do these just before winter, even if they are a bit early). I only had to do that once to avoid doing that again (I have to leave my garage door open when I have my car up on ramps, so I can get underneath).
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    ...besides DieHard, one they suggested, similar to Everstart, lists at $34.99. It has a higher cold start number than the DieHard below "Gold", which I bought -- $59.99. Tax and installation brought it to $77.42.

  • Its been a while since the last time I was here, good to see the discussion still going strong. I changed the battery on my 2000 Protege last spring after I left the map lights on all winter long when the car was parked. Needless the say, the factory battery was totally dead and wouldn't hold a charge. I took the subway to Canadian Tire and bought one of their store brand batteries, took it home in the back seat of a cab, and had it installed in the car in about half an hour. The battery mount bolts were a seized in place and took about 20 minutes to loosen, easy job for almost anyone to do.

    Just a hint, I had the Protege fully detailed inside and out before I parked back into the garage for the winter, definitely worth the $100. It felt like a new car when I picked it up. Recommend it at least twice a year (spring and fall.)

    Here in midtown Toronto, there a quite a few mint mid-80s 323s cruising around, probably grocery getters that were bought as second cars by yuppies who take the subway to work. I'm hoping that my 2000 Protege holds on for another 10 years!!!
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I had the Protege fully detailed inside and out before I parked back into the garage for the winter, definitely worth the $100 ... I'm hoping that my 2000 Protege holds on for another 10 years!!!

    The way that you're caring for your Protege another 10 years is definitely possible. My 1991 Corolla will be heading for its 15th year of continuous service; I had given it to a friend several years back who does the minimum of service and it still keeps on ticking. My current 2002 Protege5 is as good as the first day I drove it.
  • And my "99 es is going strong. I even cured the buzz - pie tin, my wife called it - under the dash. I lay on the floor with my feet over the passenger seat as Jane drove up Interstate 5 - carefully, I hope. I dimantled the lower console shroud and found that the buzz stopped when I pressed on a cable that ran vertically right up the firewall. The next day I wedged a piece of foam under the cable. Now the pro is as quiet as a 7series bimmer. Well, almost.
  • Hey all, I just wanted to drop in and say Merry Christmas!
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    And happy holidays, everyone else!

    Please drive safely...almost involved in a head-on this evening, driving home from Christmas dinner. Goof in an SUV comes spinning across several lanes on the highway; ends up in my lane, facing me. Eek! Fortunately, I was able to get on the shoulder and go around him without incident. Still, got the old ticker a-racin'.

    Happy 2006!

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Yikes, glad to hear everything is okay!! Sounds like your reactions were excellent.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    Dale, I'm glad you were able to dodge that goofball. Eek.

  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    ...Pat and Chow-chi! All that autocross (okay, all two times :P ) must have really paid off.

    Car turned 50K over the weekend; last payment next month.

    Woo hoo!
  • Since the q. of batteries has been brought up my 01 Pro (bought in 02) has 40K on it. What is the life rating on this battery? Also, my local Mazda dealer has closed, moved or gone out of business (thought Mazda was doing well) so I may have to start changing oil myself. Can someone tell me the approx. location of oil filter? I think I will have to buy some ramps. I don't like the idea, know someone who was killed using ramps.
  • I have a 2001 mazda protege with 87,000 miles and I love it, but recently the transmission is making a rattling noise and holds back some when taking off. Has anyone had this problem and if so what should I do?
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    I wouldn't let a battery go longer than 5 years, and that's under mild conditions. In really cold or really hot conditions, I'd replace them every 3 years. I replace the battery when I get a few slow starts when the weather's cold (but not bitterly cold, like -15F - I expect slow starts no matter the condition of the battery). So far, that's worked out to be 4-5 years for Champion or Everstart batteries.

    The oil filter is located between the engine block and the firewall. You can just reach it from above with my 1.6L engine (easier to get at from underneath though). With my wife's 2.0L engine, I have to get underneath.

    Cheap or poorly-maintained ramps can fail, with catastrophic results. Good quality ramps don't cost that much (like $30-40, so why risk your life with $15 ramps?). I have a set of "Rhino Ramps". They're plastic, so rust isn't an issue. They make a set for trucks that cost only several bucks more, so go for those if you want an extra margin of error. Also, the first set of ramps I got were too steep (my Pro's bumper was going to hit before the front tires even got to the ramps), so you've got to be aware of that.
  • The panasonic battery that came in my "99 pro es worked fine for 6 years. I replaced it with one from costco, though it may have served even longer.

    Unfortunately, the pro oil filter is a [non-permissible content removed] to get at. Most oil filters can be changed from a standing position.
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