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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • byrne4byrne4 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Mazda PU 4x4 with the OEM wire harness and a 4 prong flat trailer plug. I hooked up new lights. Everthing works fine, but when I brake, all the lights go off on the trailer. The truck lights are not effected and nothing blows. My ground is good, bulbs ok, fuses ok. I've even tapped into the truck's wires, by-passing the OEM pigtail and still the same problem. Is this a bad brake switch? What is it that I am missing? :cry:
  • cdduvcdduv Posts: 1
    I have a noise coming from my pump as well. It began when i dropped a new engine in my truck a few months back. Still have the whine, checked fluid level, replaced belt, etc. I don't know what it is.
  • jefferygjefferyg Posts: 418
    To my knowledge they are exactly the same, but I would check it out further.
  • I have a 99 Ranger off road package 143000 .Started missing around 45-50 miles per hour. Did this mostly under load. replace plugs wires ,fuel filter,belt,And the emissions value. Still is doing it . does anyone know what this could be . Mechanics are charging me to death. Even had the injectors cleaned. Help!!!! :confuse:
  • edwardn1edwardn1 Posts: 103
    ...does anyone know why the FRAM filter comes with a bolt and a metal spacer? Is this a jerry rig set up and should I worry?
  • myamya Posts: 2
  • cyclescycles Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Ranger, 2.5L, manual trans, 45k miles, that intermittently stalls. Over the past year, it has stalled seven times under a variety of conditions (summer w/AC on, summer w/AC off, winter, accelerating, coasting, etc) and has blown the fuel pump fuse on three of the seven stalls. The four times that it did not blow the fuse, the engine sputtered and was about to die, but then continued to run. After three trips to the dealer (two via a tow truck), and $850 spent on a new fuel pump, two fuel pump relays, and a fuel filter, the dealer is stumped and the problem remains. Any ideas?
  • I have the exact same truck, but with alot more miles, and at about 97000 it started stalling as well. One trip to the shop also via tow truck, and $1400 later, i had an entire new transmission. Hasnt stalled since. I hope its not your tranny as its a very expensive fix, but its something to consider.
  • eyballeyball Posts: 1
    Did you ever resolve this issue? My 98 Mazda B4000 (ranger) has this same issue. As soon as I put the truck in drive it blows the fuse.
  • Just a couple of hints to try and help you out...
    My truck started doing this especially around that speed and I had to replace the PCM (power control module). It is covered 8yrs through Ford directly and won't cost a thing to replace, other than you will need a new key. Like I said this fixed my '01 Ranger OffRoad V-6.
    Another guy on here got his fixed by simply replacing the speed sensor located just behind the rear tire. Part will cost you $10 from NAPA and probably around $20 to get it put in. If that doesn't fix you up, then I just don't know.
  • There are two abs switches, you have to determine which one is is defective. The fix cost me about $50 at a dealer.
  • Did you get it fixed? I have the exact same problem. No fuses burned, all wires underneath are connected.
  • I had this problem last year and it went away, but now its back. If I turn the A/C on you can feel it engage but all I get is hot air. If I turn everything off I still get hot air. Right now my choice is hot air on my feet or the defrost. I have a 95 ranger xlt 4 cylinder. It wont be long until I need the A/C again.
  • crankshaftcrankshaft OHIOPosts: 105
    Can anyone tell me where I can find the turn signal flasher on my 97 Ranger?It is not on the fuse panel.
  • I am trying to decide whether or not to purchase a 2003 Ford Ranger Supercab, 3.o liter, 5 speed manual with less than 30000 miles. What is a ballpark price for similar vehicles in the area and is this a good year/model truck?

    Consumer Reports is not wild about the Ranger, but it seems they are only partial to imports (Toyota, Honda, etc.)

  • ftomikftomik Posts: 1
    did you ever find out what the problem was with your truck ? i have the same problem, if someone has the answer let me know! thanks frank
  • 97 Ford Ranger four cylinder. When I turn on the left turn signal on the flasher relay under the dash buzzes. the right turn signal works fine and I have replaced the flash relay with no improvement. Any suggestions?
  • jefferygjefferyg Posts: 418
    I would not be scared of it. Check Edmunds true market value price.

    I don't know what CR's hangup is with the Ranger. Fact is, while the bodystyle is a bit tired, the truck has been around a long time and most all of the bugs have been worked out of them. The 3.0 while a bit lacking in hp for a V6 is very reliable, and with the maual transmission gas mileage is around 22 on the highway.
  • jefferygjefferyg Posts: 418
    I have a 96 Ranger 4cyl/5-speed with 240,000 miles. It has been running great but today it suddenly developed a miss after stopping at a traffic light. Under acceleration and cruising it feels like it's lost a cylinder. It idles a little rough, but when decelerating I hardly notice it. My suspicion is a plug wire gone bad or perhaps a problem in the ignition. I don't think it's a fuel injector b/c it misses even at idle.

    I suppose I should just take it to my friend who has a garage and let him run a diagnostic on it. OTOH, part of the fun of owning a beater is working through little problems like this yourself.

    Thanks for any advice!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Change the plugs and wires. Especially if you have 50,000 or more miles on them. If these are the original ones.............
  • Not sure about newer vehicles but on older ones if the front or rear turn signal bulb burns out the flasher will flash at a higher rate; buzzing relay implies very fast flash rate, so I'd check both bulbs and the wiring going to the bulbs.

    Also you can turn a relay into a buzzer by hooking the contacts in series with the coil, which is the configuration you end up with if there's an open (missing) ground or open (missing) +12V at the connector going to the relay -- check continuity to ground and presence of +12V at this connector.
  • I'm just posting this in case this problem should happen to anyone else. It's a hassle. I was getting near to 11mpg and i just bought the thing. After some days of frustration and the dealer(s) being of no help (computer updates are bupkiss) i first replaced the air filter, utterly clogged, then a few days later the plugs and wires (also bad. Finally i decided to replace the fuel filter and the gas i poured out of it was very dirty, so it was bad too. I did a test run. Filled up, then went one way and back, 45 mph average, returned to the pump with 59 miles. Filled up at 2.477 gallons. A big difference... 23 mpg. Truck mileage is 33,000 currently. The truck has no error codes for this trouble. I'm assuming no one ever did any maintenence on the truck. This is an 2003, automatic, 3.0 V6, power brakes/steering, single cab, 2wheel rear drive. I'm not completely sure why changing the fuel filter did the trick, but im not going to complain. I hope this helps someone out.
  • I recently purchased an 04 Ranger XLT. After the purchase I noticed half the rubber flashing on the inside of the drivers side wheel well was missing and the tie rod had a piece of yellow tape on it. After I got underneath the truck, I noticed some different color paint marks (blue, pink, etc.) These were just dabs of paint, but now I am worried that perhaps the dealership did some work they did not disclose. the previous owner told me he had nothing done, and when he traded the vehichle he remembered the rubber flashing being intact. (He his a spare key on the frame in this area, so he was sure all the flashing was there.) Explanation for the tape and color marks?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Take it to a body shop. Some of this sounds like it was wrecked on this corner and repaired.

    A body shop can easily tell you if there have been repairs done, especially recently.

    If there have been, what are you thinking of doing about it? Did the seller give you some paper that said it had never been in an accident? I bet you bought it 'as is' and there's nothing you can do about it?
  • I did buy it "as is" but the sales person told me that he would disclose any accidents. I realize this doesn't give me much recourse; however, you never know what a dealership may be willing to do if caught in a compromising situation. We shall see.

    What I don't get is that the previous owner reported nothing like what I saw underneath. It is almost as if the "accident/repair" happened at the dealership after it had been traded in on Jan. 5, 06. Hmmm....

    p.s. On a unrelated note- Your username is "bolivar". I grew up in Bolivar, MO. Is that the town to which your user names references?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    No, my user name comes from a very obtuse source.

    I think you are out of luck.

    The 'paper' on the vehicle says 'as is'.

    Anything the salesman said "Isn't worth the paper it's written on."
  • I stopped by a Ford dealership today and took a look underneath some of the late model Rangers and some of the new ones. I found the same markings on all of the driver's side tie rods and the yellow tape was in the same location as on mine on two of the '06 Rangers. I suppose that this was something put on in the factory. Or there was a rash of driver side collisions with Ranger pickups and all went to the same bodyshop for repairs. I think the former is more likely.

    Thanks for you input.
  • how do you fix the high brake light if it's leaking, i have a 2000 ranger and water on the passenger side.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, I'm sorry. I thought you meant the tape and/or markings were obviously 'new'. That is on what I based my comment - that it probably had been wrecked.

    But, yes, there are all kind of tape, sticker, and markings on various parts of an automobile. These are part numbers or inspection marks. And some of them will stay attached for a long time - years and years. But, at least to me, it's pretty obvious to me when the stickers are old, mainly because there will be dirt, oil, etc on them.

    Sorry if I mislead you.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Not exactly sure since I've never done it. But I would suppose it could be done from the outside. Remove the lens which should be held on with screws (got to get to the bulbs, right). Then the entire light assembly hopefully would be held on with screws/bolts inside the lens. This should get you to the rubber seal around the light assembly which can be replaced.

    If you can't get it off this way, then it would probably take disassembly of interior panels to get to nuts, bolts, clips on the inside that hold the light assembly on. This will be tougher to do. Interior panels are many times messy to remove. Sometimes you have to remove one quite a ways away from where you need to work, then remove more, moving to the area when you need to work. Some of them just push or snap together - these I'm always 'shaky' about trying to remove.

    Of course, you need to try to find the correct area leaking. Could be lot of places. If you park under trees for a while, the aid intake in front of the windshield can become plugged with leaves, etc and water will not drain out. When it pools up, it will find its way inside through seams in the metal.

    The small windows on the sides of extended cabs can leak.

    The rear window can leak. If there is a sliding window it can leak.
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