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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • my 01 ranger has some chattering that can be heard in the cab and can be felt in the gas petal when accelerating. it usually does this when accelerating between 35 and 50 mph. anyone have the same problem or know whats the problem?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Is this just 'pinging'?

    Is this a 3Liter?

    If so, 3L are notorious for pinging. And there is little that can be done about it other than use higher octane gasoline. Try mid grade. If still there try premium.
  • I have a 97 Ranger Std. Cab w/o AC. My fan just started going bad tonite. It only works on the highest setting. What is wrong with it and can it be fixed cheap?? Thank You for Your Help!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The fan motor is only a 1 speed motor. Slower speeds are obtained by using a 'resistor pack' with 3 different resistors that allow the 3 lower speed. High speed bypasses the resistor pack, therefore it will still work when the resistor pack is burned up.

    The resistor pack is under the hood, on passenger side, usually on the top of the air box for the heating/cooling system. It should have several wires going into it, and smell like it's burned up... And it is.
  • rdrage73rdrage73 Posts: 5
    I just to it to my friends shop because I couldn't stand the squeaking anymore.It turns out that the ball joints needed to be lubed.I can't beleive I endured hours of annoyance just because of that, but atleast it was a cheap fix.
  • rdrage73rdrage73 Posts: 5
    While it was at my friends shop I also had him look into another mysterious noise. Though after driving400 miles, it was no longer mysterious. It was something in my transmission. As it turns out,the noise suppressor on the end of the driveshaft had broken and the clutch slave cylinder has a very small leak that I didn't know about causing it to run almost completely dry. He suggested keeping an eye on the fluid level rather than replacing it. He said to change it he would have to drop the transmission and he was going to have to do that,then I should have the clutch replaced at the same time and that would cost about $800.00 total with his discount and the discount he would give me. I took his advice needless to say.The fact that it has 117,500 miles on it was the main reason I opted for quick,cheap fix .
  • kpollkpoll Posts: 1
    1998 Ranger manual trans. When I step on the brakes my right directionals come on solid with the brake lights? I don't know where to look. Bulb? Ground? Switch?
  • hi josh here just woundering what you sprayed and where it was located on the truck
  • chrizjenchrizjen Posts: 1
    Well, I recently went to autozone and had the code read. It tells me that the Purge Flow sensor probably needs replacing. But when I had problems starting my truck in the rain I was curious. Do these two problems go together? So I went to Dobbs and they told me that the only way for them o find the problem was to charge me 95 dollars and they could pinpoint it. Well, all they came back with was the same code I already had. They cant find anything that would make it start like that in the rain. Anyway. I have a 97 Ranger. Dobbs tells me it will cost an additional 200 dollars to replace the sensor. The parts stores are closed today and Im wondering that is something that is easy that I could do myself for cheaper. Thanks for any info in advance ! I really to apreciate any advice.
  • landdriverlanddriver Posts: 607
    He probably used contact cleaner (WD40 works in a pinch) and sprayed it on the switch in the slot visible when the door is open that mates with the latch. If that doesn't work may need to remove the door panel to replace the switch.
  • Hey actually me dad and I did tthe plugs and wires without removing the intake, you can actually reach the back two plugs with an extension on the socket wrench, and the far one you can reach from underneath, hopefully this will help you in the future!
  • Has anybody out there done a V8 conversion on a 92 ranger, It had a 2.3, 5 speed. Looking to install small block,auto. Any info greatly appt. Hawk
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    google, google, google
  • I have a 1999 Ranger with the 3.0 V6 and and 5 speed manual, and my gas gauge does the same thing, and I too get anywhere from 17 to 19 mpg....and its only a 2WD, so these Rangers are a little disappointing on milage, but its been a good truck. I just rolled over 163,000 miles. Those have been some pretty hard miles too, anyway, yeah what your truck is doing is probably normal.
  • I have a 1999 Ranger XLT with the 3.0 Flex Fuel V6 and a 5 speed manual. I just rolled over 163,000 miles on it, and its recently started giving me a really weird problem....sometimes when I back of the throtle, it doesnt idle down right away, it stays at high rpm for a couple seconds. I checked all the mechanicals, its not the pedal, not the cable, not the linkage, and not the throtle valve. What is making hard to diagnose is how random it is, there is no pattern to it, it just randomly does it. Does anyone know what its doing and how to fix it??? Finally, the whole time I've owned this truck, its eaten up front brakes like they're candy, and occasionally will make aweful grinding noises as if there is no pads in the brakes at all, and when i check the pads, they're still good. Does anyone else have the same problem and know how to fix it??
  • when you say chattering, do you mean clattering or knocking and pinging?? It could be detonation, my '99 3.0 V6 does the same thing under acceleration.....check your plugs and make sure they're in good shape, and also run some fuel system cleaner through it, and if neither of those fix it, the only thing left that I know to do is to simply run a higher octane fuel....thats what I have to do to my truck, I run 89 or 90 octane instead of regular unleaded.
  • have you checked your fuel filter? that might be it. good luck!
  • 2000 3.0 Flex Fuel 2WD AT

    Code downloads to "inadequate EGR flow," replacing EGR valve no help. Read online that common mistake is to replace EGR valve without first checking other things. Doh! Don't really have the time to mess with this, so took it to a shop (a parts swapper). They want almost $500 to do several things to it. Yeah, right, and it'll probably still have the problem.

    Any experiences with this? What's the most likely culprit? What are the easiest/least expensive Do-It-Yourself tests and/or installations that might resolve the problem?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Doesn't idle down - Check for either a sticking/binding throttle cable or a very dirty throttle body around the butterfly valve. With this milage, the dirty throttle might be the problem. Cleaning - I think most Rangers have warnings about cleaning the throttle body with carb cleaner. It supposed to have a 'coating' on it. But if there is a ridge of gunk around the butterfly valve, it will have to be removed some way. If you take the flexable intake tube off, and can see that its really gunked up in there, I would start cleaning. Clean the butterfly also, front and back. There might be some product sold that will clean it and not harm the 'coating'. When I opened up my 94 4L, I couldn't really see any 'coating', but I do think there was a warning sticker there about cleaning it.
    Or, the really simple problem also. A floor mat that balls up and keeps the gas peddle pressed down. Happened to me. People don't think this can happen, but it sometime does.

    Brakes - The slide area on the outside of the caliper, where the calipers slide in when the brake is depressed and slide out to release the pad pressure may never been cleaned. And the 'pins' that hold the caliper and pads together also have to be cleaned. (Consider replacing pins when replacing pads.) Both of these also must be greased with special brake grease. If there is rust on the slide area and general gunk on the pins inside the calipers, the pads will not release and move back away from the rotor. Mechanics do brake jobs and do not clean up the 'moving' parts, just put new pads on. And cause these kind of problems. Especially prevalent in snow/salt areas.
    Or, you have a collapsed rubber brake line. These can sometimes collapse internally, can't be seen from the outside. This retains the brake fluid pressure after releasing the brake, keeping pads on the rotor and eats up pads.

    All these problems are rather common when getting into the high milage area you are in.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Yep, a lot of good EGR valves are replaced. And the code is still there. EGR valves actually seldom fail.

    I can't tell you exactly what the 'real' problem may be. But I think there are vacumn switches (electrical solnoid vacumn switch) 'upstream' of the EGR valve on its vacumn control line that are sometimes the real problem.

    Or breaks / splits in the vacumn lines.

    Or the lines are bad to the gasoline vapor recovery cannistor, or the valves in the cannistor top are bad.

    Finding the right failing component when the EGR valve code is set takes a pretty good mechanic, usually running a 'problem tree diagnoistic' set of tests and inspections from a service manual.

    Checking these vacumn valve and the vapor cannistor are tough to do unless you have a manual that tells what is supposed to be open, what is to hold vacumn, when solnoid switched vacumn valves open or close, etc.

    About all you can do without a manual is visually inspect lines and fittings.
  • swankerswanker Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Ford Ranger that the engine light is always coming on. I have taken it to six different places to check and they all give me a different answer we have replaced everything they have told us and still it keeps coming on. Does anyone know what is going on with these trucks
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    I have 97 Ranger that is chattering also. A Ford dealer told me that there is problem with the crankshaft belt and pulley. I guess the pulley gets oblong. This information was reluctantly given to me. And it was also "unsure". 300 dollar possible fix. Why can't dealers be honest? I understand the grey area, but huge corporations? I guess that is how they get so big. :mad:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    6 places can't repair a 'check engine light'?

    You need to find better mechanics.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Never heard of 'oblong crankshaft belt and pulley'.

    'Chatter when accelerating' is ping. I bet you have the 3L motor. Many of these ping, and the only solution is to use higher octane gas. These 3L have pinged for the last 15 years and Ford seems to not want to re-design them to stop it.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Ok, Let me check.....nope, crystal ball isn't working today.
    What codes have shown up?
    What have the different places told you?
    What has been replaced?
    Did the different mechanics do the work or did you do it?
    Does the light stay on constantly or just flicker on and then off?
  • How big of a tire can i get on a 97 Ford Ranger 4X4 reg cab, without it rubbing. I have stock 15X7 rims. I have read i can go with a 265/75/15 and it will fit on the rim. Will it rub???

  • My 03 Ranger 4X4 has about 32k miles on I had my truck inspected at the NJ Inspection Station...the truck failed inspection because the right rear brake operated with only 1/2 the stopping power of the left rear bake. Any ideas as to cause? Fix? thanks, Steve G.
  • mluckmluck Posts: 2
    my 94 3.0 ranger sometimes won't fire,no spark replaced the ignition module and coil..worked for a while,the again won't fire..removed the battery ground,put back on,and it another module to see if i got a junk one first..what could it be if not the ignition only seems to do this when engine has be running for a while and is warm..
  • i have an 02 ranger that the cargo light does not work when i open either door. i changed bulbs . how hard is it to find the problem, any help is great. thanks ahead of time.
  • i have an 02 ranger that does the same thing at about 92mph. i have a feeling it may be a factory installed govenor. the tires are only rated for 109mph. safety feature i think.
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