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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • steveb68steveb68 Posts: 2
    my 97 ford ranger 4.0 v6 seems to run great at highway speeds but as I slow to a stop it starts to buck and sometimes dies, but restarts like new. What sensors could be malfunctioning and leaning it out, or could this be a vacuum leak? The motor has always run strong and shifted well until this recent problem.
  • steveb68steveb68 Posts: 2
    I put the wrong codes on my previous post.
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    My 97 2.3 litre will only produce warm air. The climate knob seems to turn easier now but will not cool when it is turned to the blue area. Any suggestions?
  • If you have airconditioning get the r12 "freeon" checked if not you might be looking at blue but the gears inside the knob may not be catching and turning to the cool (blue) area
  • I just replaced the clutch on my 93 Ranger.
    There is a black "Bladder" inside the clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir.
    What is the function of this and is it a crucial part of the system?
  • dan1dan1 Posts: 76
    When the tach on my Mustang went out I pulled the instrument cluster from a wrecked one and that took care of it. Not sure what a new instrument cluster would go for but you might want to try the local junk yard.
  • rjeran1rjeran1 Posts: 2
    I am having a brakelight problem. my left turn signal is blinking faster then usual so I figured the bulb was bad, happened it was the left brake light, I replaced it, it somewhat worked when I pushed hard on the brake, now a few days later both my brakelights do not work when I press them. I am wondering what I should do to fix this and if I should take it to a shop and how much that may cost as I am not the best at mecahnical or electrical things any solutions would be helpful.
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    It will not even blow cool air through the vent setting. Only heat all the time. The climate knob does not have any gears. It is controlled by voltages. Internally it seems ok. I guess I should get a schmatic to see what the voltages should be. Thanks for the response.
  • I just had a 1985 ranger rebuilt and noticed when it rains the floors are wet. It looks like it may be coming through the fire wall. Has anyone else had this problem or have any suggestions. Thanks
  • gregc1gregc1 Posts: 2
    This is a responce to my own request last week (#2083).
    I found out that the crankshart position sensor is the probable culprit. when it is cold, and the sensor is old, the magnet gets weak, the plastic shrinks, and it does not register motion on the crankshaft. it also does not give a trouble code. According to my source, the ignition coil is the only other component that can give the same symptoms, and since I already replaced that, the $14.00 sensor was my last choice. so far it is working just fine.
  • I drive a 98 ford ranger but i don't have that problem. But I do drive a crown vic for work(cop). I had the same vibrating betwwen 40 and 60 mph. Found out that my car had a bad coil. Coil was replaced and problem was gone. Ford has had many problems with coil during these years with crown vics. I think it has to do with the engine and balancing itself with one cylinder kickin in and out or not firing at all. Hope this helps.
  • if you have a radio with two holes on each side yes you will need a special tool. its inexpensive and easy to use. You can buy a instalation kit at wal mart. as long as you have an understanding for what wires go where you should be fine. as far as other stock units im not sure. i would think you have a den and a half so any ford product could work.
  • i've have gone through sevral different attempts to fix this problem. Ive even bought new sensors. If you can do it yourself just pull the sensor and clean it with a electrical solvent. Using wd-40 will atract dirt and eventually you will have to do it all over again. the plunger is getting stuck and not returning to the full position. The only thing that sucks si reaching your hand into the dorr getting scracthed by the metal.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You may have a severe problem. This is about the year that had a problem with one of the 'valves' in the air box - the stuff under the dash that controls air movement thru the A/C and heater coils, defroster, etc. The plastic 'posts' on one of the air flapper valves would break. And the valve would no longer move. Huge repair to just get to it - remove dash and the outside of the air box. And then, the factory fix was to replace the air box.

    If this is the problem, a lot of money. For removal and then the air box replacement. On some other Ranger boards there was a self-repair description involving drilling thru the broken plastic post, inserting a pin, etc, etc.

    Of course, you might have another problem with the Heat/AC. But as I said, 1997 is about the year with the broken flapper post problem....
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If 'brakes lites work sometimes when pressing hard' usually means the electrical brake switch is going bad. It is under the dash, on the assembly above the brake pedal. Pedal movement actuates it. Electrical connector goes into it.

    It comes off with a pin/clip. Note the sequence of pin, nylon bushing, washers, etc and how the switch fits into all of this.

    A new switch is cheep, at auto parts house for about $8, don't have to buy from Ford.

    I replace 3 times on my 94 in about 9 years of ownership.
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    Very good information. Thank you very much. I will let you know what resolves the problem.
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    Ford engineers say it should be the timing belt and pulley(s).
  • woodmlpjwoodmlpj Posts: 1
    My 1994 Ranger has about 75,000 miles on it. About 3 years ago, I began having problems shifting into gear when the truck was stopped with the engine running. At first the problem was intermittent, but now it seems to be continuous for the most part. I can get it into gear, but it takes force. Is this a clutch problem? Any ideas on repair costs?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I'm not very informed on manuals, but this seems like a clutch problem.

    You have a hydrolic clutch. Is it full of fluid? If it is leaking fluid, this may be the problem, rather than actually needing a rebuild on the clutch.

    I've no idea what a clutch would cost. There is a 'slave' hydrolic cylinder down on the clutch end that is a pain to replace and bleed. If you put a new clutch in, I would consider replacing this slave cylinder since it is so hard to get to and bleed.
  • rf396rf396 Posts: 5
    my 99 ranger idles a little bumpy but accelerates ok but lately has been feeling like it's holding back at about 30-40mph twice it's had a bad stumble at about 70 when the tank was near empty. all things considered Im figuring a bad injector or possibly on 02 sensor. anyone else have this issue? if so what did you for it? Any help is appreciated thanks Rick
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    your guess is a good one bolivar.

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  • I have a 1996 Ranger, 2.3L 4 cyl. when I take off, it feels real sluggish, and has little power. Once I am going, it is fine. I had it hooked up to a computer, and it showed It was a bad EGR valve, but I changed it just a couple months ago. could anyone help me with this problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Did you clean the tube that feeds from the EGR into the manifold?

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  • tstotlertstotler Posts: 3
    I have a 98 ranger that has an intermittent problem. Very rarely, right after I start it and pull out, the first time I touch the brakes they grab real hard. The rears skid and the fronts grab hard, it is like I slammed on them. When this happens the peal resistance goes way down, lower than normal. It forces everyone to slide forward in their seats. After that first skid, it won't do it again. I thought this was very strange. Any thoughts???
  • glenntcglenntc Posts: 1
    I am buying a 2000 Ranger (2.5L, automatic, 2WD) tomorrow if it checks out mechanically. Is there anything in particular I should look for? My understanding is that these are basically good trucks.

  • bpwilsonbpwilson Posts: 1
    I had the same thing happen to my 2003 Ranger. I just washed the truck and the brakes get a layer of flash rust which increases the coef. of friction. It will be fine after a few (careful) brake applications. This is not unusal, particularly with drum brakes.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Yep, Ranger rear drum brakes are well known for 'grabbing'. This can happen just overnight, in damp, rainy weather. Some people have indicated a reduction after new shoes are used. But others have said no matter what kind of brake shoes, they had grabbing.

    What I did - just after getting moving, test the brakes. If they grab, then just 'ride' the brakes, gently engage the brake and with the left foot and keep moving for a hundred feet or so. This will remove overnight rust and heat up the shoes, driving off moisture. They will not grab any more.

    I see no reason grabbing brakes should effect the pedal resistance or how far they go down. You might have another problem. If you have a brake fluid leak in a wheel cylinder, brake fluid leaking on a brake shoe can also cause it to grab. This usually will not 'go away' but will continue to grab even after driving it. Lay down and look at the inside of the rear wheel. If it is leaking much, you should be able to see the dark stains from the brake fluid. If this is your problem, take it to a shop unless you know how to change the wheel cylinder and then remove the air from the brake lines.
  • jrmccoyjrmccoy Posts: 1

    I am the poster child for this problem...exactly as described... '94 Ford Ranger-intermittant, fuel pump won't prime as per normal but engine will crank/turnover (not start and run) when I turn the key...aggravated by warm weather...I've been dealing with this problem 2 years. I won't stay broken long enough to diagnose, but will stay broken long enough to strand me all over town. I've changed the fuel pump, bypassed the inertia switch (taken it out completely) so looking like you for solution. I was interested in earlier postings about the fuel pump relay switch...I havent bypassed it yet, but will try it. Have you come across a solution? Thanks, J.R. McCoy
  • 83ranger83ranger Posts: 2
    my 83 has the same problem,I'm still looking for the source, I'm checking for missing plugs, weatherstripping, loose nuts and bolts etc, if I find it I'll let ya know.
  • 83ranger83ranger Posts: 2
    I am stuck! I'm trying to replace gaskets and seals but can't get the oil pump off to remove the pan, according to 'chilton's' trere is only 1 nut and bolt, it still won't come off. any suggestions? :confuse:
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