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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • landdriverlanddriver Posts: 607
    Not familar with automotive paint but have experience with painting speaker enclosures, kitchen appliances, etc.

    For sure you will need to abrade the glassy surface you're planning on painting. If it were me, after carefully masking the area with the shape you want, I'd try some steel wool first (buy different grades of coarseness); if this takes too long to dull the finish, then try sand paper. The tricky part will be near the edge of the masking tape -- you want to roughen-up the paint without deteriorating the line of the masking tape. Vacuum, move vehicle to enclosed area, wait ~half-hour for dust to settle, then while trying to not raise any dust carefully wipe area with a tack cloth (sticky cloth that will remove any remaining dust, available where paint is sold), and spray paint with good quality paint (Rustoleum "Stops Rust" in the white cans works great for speaker enclosures but not sure how well it would stand up to UV and washings; check-out an automotive paint supply house to see if they have anything in an aerosol) (if it were me I'd lean toward a semi-gloss instead of a flat). Remove masking tape right after painting and leave area until paint is dry.

    Also consider taking a photo of the truck with a digital camera and use photoshop to simulate the paint job to see if it seems to look ok (or just get a Ranger brochure and use a pencil or pen to shade the appropriate area).
  • teh_jokerteh_joker Posts: 7
    Sand the area, first a dry sand, then a wet sand, down to the primer. Then apply two coats of the paint, let it dry wet, sand again (lightly, not through to primer), and apply one or two more coats.
  • teh_jokerteh_joker Posts: 7
    Bum For a reply.
  • kimble989kimble989 Posts: 14
    Somebody throw some idea's my way this time please!!
    I took my '01 V6/4.0L SOHC Ranger to a local service shop. He used the ol' snap on to read what was going on with my check engine light. Got the codes above for lean fuel mix. So, we replaced both 02 sensors. Cleared the codes and hoped for the best. No change, light came back after roughly 22miles. It actually is running worse now than before. It idled very low and rough for a sec then stalled on me twice while going thru a drive-thru.
    I just purchased an MAF sensor and will be replacing that myself when it comes in(don't trust the mechanic that much if it isn't Ford itself...but very expensive!).
    Is there anything else this may be? The truck runs fine once going and is 90% running good at idle, but runs rough and stalls once in a while.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
  • randyacerandyace Posts: 96
    Many thanks for the two answers I received. Why didn't I think of using photoshop and take a picture first??? :confuse:

  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    If I'm sitting at my driver's seat looking forward. The power distribution box is on the driver's side in front of me. I've got three square relays together in a cluster. Two toward the front of the vehicle side by side and one on the right side toward me at the driver's seat. I went to an auto parts store and tried to figure out which relay was which, but there was no material that showed this. The guy told me to swap relays around when it doesn't start to determine which one is bad. I don't know if these relays are the same or not they have different numbers on them. Can I do this? These relays do look exactly the same except for the last four numbers. I also found out that there is an anti-theft relay. I have a feeling that this might be what's causing the problem instead of a fuel pump relay. Again the vehicle turns over but doesn't start at times. The door locks will engage and disengage when it's trying to start. I've been jiggling and messing with the relays and power distribution box and then the truck will eventually start. There is also a starter relay which is mounted to the wall of the engine compartment. The guy at the auto parts store seemed to think that this wasn't it if it would turn over like it does. Has me baffled! :confuse:
  • teh_jokerteh_joker Posts: 7
    DONT MESS AROUND WITH THE RELAYS! dont mean to yell, but would you stick a 100 watt light bulb in a 60 watt socet? (if you answered yes, OMG) Here is what you described. Two toward the front of the vehicle side by side and "one on the right side toward me at the driver's seat" thats the one, in quotes. Give me that number, and i will cross refence it to mine.
  • cniemanncniemann Posts: 9
    I run just a stock Radio Shack magnetic mount antenna on the roof just above the roof light and have good luck there.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    Hey I think they are the same kind of relays! Napa has the same part listed for the anti-theft and fuel pump relays. The numbers on the relays starting with the one toward the front on the left is FOAB 14B192-AA 4K03 1603, the one immediately to it's right is FOAB 14B192-AA 4K03 1604, and the one closest to the driver on the right is FOAB 14B192-AA 4K03 1559. When I got done with my earlier post I went to drive off and the truck wouldn't start. I swapped the two on the right and it fired right up! I still need to figure out which one is which because I'm not sure which is bad or what they are to for that matter??? :D
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    What about replacing all 3?

    Your Ranger should then be ready to give you another 11 years of relay service.
  • So my ABS light has been on for quite a while but have had no porblems. Recently when i start to brake everything is OK, but as soon as I am coming to a complete stop the ABS kicks in for no apparently reason (even when it is not slippery out). Anyone know what should be replaced or looked at? I am quite mechanically sound so I can fix it. Or is there a way I can actually just take out the whole ABS system all together?
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    Yeah, I think that's what I'm going to do. I still would like to know which one is which though to make sure I don't get the parts mixed up.
  • c908c908 Posts: 1
    I have a new 2006 ranger sport with 3.0 automatic. I filled up showing 1486 miles on the odometer.This tank just had 86 miles since last fill up.It was all city mostly short distance easy driving and I got 12.91 mpg. Will it get better with more miles? After picking the truck up the first 100 miles was highway and I got 18.5mpg.Its hard to believe a 148 horsepower motor gets this kind of milage. Any comments are appreciated. Thanks!
  • mpwbwmpwbw Posts: 7
    That does seem hard to believe. With different fuel additives at different gas stations, it could be a fluke. The additives are to make less pollution, but sometimes gas mileage does suffer. I have noticed that every now and again for no apparent reason, my miles per gallon differs. Also, did you get gas at the same station or same brand?? Try a different one. Last, even the owner's manuel (at least for my 04'Ranger) says the vehicle has a brief break in period of I believe 1,000 miles. They recommend not calculating miles per gallon until then. Hope this helps, and I wouldn't worry -- esp. if the vehicle has otherwise been running fine.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    On the Rangers with ABS only on the rear brakes, low fluid in the master cylinder will cause the ABS light to come on when you brake. It doesn't actually activate the ABS, the light just comes on.

    The low fluid can be because of a leak or just ordinary wear of pads/shoes which move out and more fluid displaces into the system, lowering the level. If this happens, and more fluid is added, fluid will need to be suctioned out while replacing the pads/shoes, otherwise the fluid will overflow the master cylinder when the wheel cylinders are pushed back in for the new pads/shoes.
  • I have a 1999 Ranger 4X4 4.0 V6 and when its warm outside and at idle .. it makes a humming sound from the TPI area, this is driving me crazy ... it's fine when the weather is cool, but every time it warms up I get this humming sound at an idle, can anyone help me on this ???
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    It's your idle control unit. Looks about the size of a film canister and silver colored. It's mounted with two screws and has one wire plug. You can take it off and clean it with carb cleaner. You can also use a brush on it. Be careful there's a gasket in there and don't spray any of the carb cleaner on the electrical end! If it still hums you can get a new one for sixty dollars or so.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Agreed. It's the ICV.
  • Thanks for your help guys .... I'll get out there and take a look at it -- its been driving me crazy for three weeks now -- Thanks again for your info on it

  • I removed and cleaned it and it fixed the problem, Thank you so much for your help, it was driving me crazy LOL
    its people like you that makes this forum worth coming to.
    again, Thank you so much for your help in fixing my problem
  • My 1994 Ranger has had no problems until recently. It has started to have a rough idle. And it idles kinda slow too. Also, when I put it in first and start to take off, it acts real sluggish, but after it gets to the 10 mph mark, it will suddenly go. This happens through all the gears exept in 4th and 5th where it has almost no acceleration whatsoever. If any of you have an idea- ive tried taking it to a garage- please help!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Give it fresh plug wires and plugs, if they have 40-50,000 miles on them. Clean the MAF. Tighten the intake manifold bolts.
  • estherfestherf Posts: 2
    I also have a Ranger that has had the "check engine" light on since it only had 595 miles on the clock (according to the paperwork in the glove compartment; I am the third owner)It now has 173000 miles, and the light has been on the whole time. Is this a common Ranger thing? Should I get it fixed if I want to sell it? Cheers!
  • estherfestherf Posts: 2
    My Ranger (97 model XL 4.0L) has developed an intermittent squeak when it is sitting idling, or moving slowly. Had the serpentine belt replaced as I thought that it was a slipping belt sound, but it changed the sound but didnt eliminate it. It's High pitched squeak that will happen for about 10 second every minute, and I cant for the life of me tell exactly where it is originating. Any ideas? Oh, the truck has 173000 miles, and has only ever had basic servicing done on it.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    I don't think it's anything major as long as it's on steady and not flashing.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    A 'check engine light' means 'check the error codes that have been set'.

    I've never known of one that 'blinks'. They are on or off.

    But actually, why worry now after 170,000+ miles.
  • dogpile50dogpile50 Posts: 1
    can anyone tell me if a 96 transmission will fit a 93 ranger. both were match up to a 2.3L engine.I need to change my old 93 trany because of the whinning bearings are going to lockup one day and I can't stand the whine while driving it.--both are 5 speeds
  • took my 2000 ranger in for new pads and shoes. Was told everything was corroded and needed to be replaced(calipers and other assorted hardware as well as pads). Shop did think they could save the rotors and drums. Quoted me $700. Is this reasonable? The truck was driven for five years in Chicago winters, but it boggles my mind that everything is shot, particularly on a five year old vehicle.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    Seems expensive to me! :>0
  • Ok my gas gauge in my 1990 Ford Ranger STX doesn't work right. The needle on my gas gauge is at the line before the E when the truck is not running but when i turn the key on and start the truck up the needle goes down to E but its not really empty. I don't when to put gas in thats why i lose money so fast cause i ran out of gas one time already idk when to put gas in because my gas gauge doesn't work right. Does anyone have a solution to this?
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