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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 2001 ranger xl 3.0 longbed. I recently put new plugs, wires, pcv valve, fuel filter on the truck. Before i did all this i was at 17 mpg. After all the work i am still sitting at 17 mpg. What gives? Can anyone help? Thanks!
  • My 2001 Edge, 3.0 v6 has a problem I can't find any information on. Fuse #2 blows every time I shift out to drive or reverse. The airbag light comes on, I have no overdrive, the A/C - heater fan won't blow and I have no reverse lights. The manual says all of these are functions fall on Fuse #2. Someone suggested changing the reverse switch on the transmission. I did that and it did nothing. Whenever I put a new fuse in it everything works fine until I shift.

    I called a dealer and the service guy said he saw this once before and it was a wire that ran from the overdrive button on the gear shifter to the column. He said they sometimes short out and it could be it. Of course without looking at it I really don't expect an instant answer.

    If anyone out there has had an experience like this or is more knowledgeable about this stuff than I am (it doesn't take a lot) PLEASE give me some input :-) I don't want to start tearing more crap apart if it isn't really needed. The service people here in Germany charge an unreal amount of money to do anything so I want to avoid them if at all posible.

  • Turns out the wire running from the overdrive button had a bare spot on it from rubbing against metal in the column. Easy fix and I'm glad I didn't end up taking it to a dealer and getting hosed.
  • Ok all, I have a problem. I have a 2K4 3.0 v6 ranger misfiring, i think on cylinder 2. I had a valve job done on both heads, cylinders 5,6 had burned exhaust valves, and pounded seats, and cylinder 2 had burned exhaust valve and pounded seat. No one is driving it like a maniac either. It is my dad's truck, and he drives it just like any regular person.
    It has 80K ish miles on it. I replaced the throttle position sensor, plugs, wires, coil pack, valve job on both heads, all new gaskets, checked the fuel injectors with the ohm meter, and they are reading 13.5 ohms, which is within tolerance (12-16 ohms), fuel pressure is up, no codes are coming up on my code reader. I am running out of things that can be wrong with it, and still am not figuring it out.
    Here is the kicker... I can unplug the wiring to cylinder 2 fuel injector, and the truck starts running worse, but if i leave it hooked up, i can unplug cylinders 1 + 3 fuel injectors, and the truck doesn't notice a difference. Ok, so i switched cylinder 2 and cylinder 3 injectors, and still, cylinder 2 is the only one to have an effect on the engine.
    I have been working on this truck for a while now, and still, no progress. The misfire is slight, but still there, if you listen closely, and when you are accelerating on the freeway, it gets BAD. I hooked up the plug wires to the coil pack, according to my Chilton's manual, but when i do that, the truck will NOT run. AT ALL!! I can get it to spin over a couple of times, but the engine is trying to jump out into my neighbors yard. I hooked the wires up according to the firing order rather than what the manual said, and it runs well, but still has that little misfire. Any help would be nice.

  • I have a 1999 Ranger 4X4 XLT Ex-cab V6 4.0. The left side directional light seems to get stuck on at random. Any ideas? The right side always works.
  • it could be the actual blinker box thing

    There should be a little square box under your dash that has some prongs sticking out of the top of it, that hook up to some wiring. That box is what makes your blinkers work, and that is the sound you here when it is on. To find it, turn your blinker on, and follow the sound
  • My last two rangers did the same thing. I had a 4*2 Ext. Cab 3 liter V6 and now a 4*4 4.0 liter V6. I too had the tranny fluid changed.

    The problem comes and goes. I keep up with maintenance and only go to major gas stations like Citgo, Shell, Sunoco. The problem comes and goes.

    If it is low fuel pressure -- how does one correct this? I already had the fuel filter replaced, which didn't look terrible, even though it was rusted somewhat on the outside and the truck only had 30,000 highway miles on it.

    Any input would be appreciated.
  • I have a 96 Ranger XLT, 4wd, 4.0L auto. It recently started draining the battery down overnight.

    So far I have swapped the battery out with a known good battery. Pulled the alternator and taken it to the local advanced auto and auto zone for testing. Pulled the hood light, glove box lights and dome lights. All of which have made no difference.

    I then measured across the battery under no/full load conditions with the car idling and I get about 14.2 volts. I also revved the truck up to 2-3000 rpm, and the voltage remained steady.

    I then went and pulled each of the fuses in the cab fuse box and measured across each location in the fuse box to see if I could find a short (if the circuit is complete (or shorted) you'll measure voltage across the fuse location). Most of the locations measured 0 volts except for the following:

    Location 21 Hazard Lamps
    Location 24 Starter/Anti-theft
    Location 25 Speedo/GEM
    Location 27 Courtesy Lights
    Location 28 GEM

    I can see how the antitheft and GEM can draw power all the time, but the courtesy lights and hazard lamps kind of threw me.

    Anybody have any ideas other than pulling fuses everynight and seeing if I can isolate the current draw that way? Is it possible for the alternator to test out OK, but have leaky diodes that can cause this problem? I'd also be interested in knowing what the typical current draw from the battery is with everything off- I think I measured something like 200 milliamps.

  • Thanks Bolivar you share some good info!

    I agree change all three. I have a 95 2300 Ranger & the fuel pump just went out. Turn the ignition to "ON" you can't here the pump:( Original Ford pump $200.00 at the dealer. Car Quest Air-Tex pump with hanger $179.00. Looks like I'm heading to Car Quest for a pump & than changing all three relays.
  • As some of you out there might know I have had intermittent problems with my Ranger starting. Well I originally swapped my relays and then I replaced them altogether. Well I was going home on monday and the thing was dying and sputtering all the way. Like before I would wiggle my relays and get it to start. Well I took it to the shop on tuesday and had them look at it. It was the pin connection underneath the relay box. They changed my pins and tightened them up and the problem has been fixed. $103 wasn't too bad of deal I thought! :)
  • Not positive but 200 mA seems way high to me, corresponding to 2.4W, about the current drawn by a map light bulb. It probably accounts for the battery draining overnight.

    The voltage you read across the fuse contacts is explained if the switches that control the corresponding devices are semiconductor-based, not mechanical. Semiconductor switches, when "off," do exhibit some leakage resistance which, when in series with the device being controlled, for example, a light bulb, completes the path needed for the voltmeter to see the battery voltage.

    A better test would be to put an ammeter across the fuse contacts and measure the resulting current. Hopefully this will help isolate the current leak. Equivalently you can keep the ammeter connected in series with the battery and pull fuses/disconnect connectors until the 200 mA current draw disappears.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,441
    The truck just rolled over 110,000 miles and to date the only problem I have encountered is a bad U-Joint that was replaced with about 60K on the odometer. The front wheel bearings and clutch will have to be replaced sometime in the future but all things considered this has been a dirt cheep truck to own. It returns 26mpg in mixed driving consistantly. I am looking at replacing the truck in the next year or so but havent found anything out there worth the money. shopped toyo, nissan, gm and nothing stands out as being any better for my needs. I am starting to look more closely at the explorer sport trac though.
  • You have a Ranger setup that's famously bulletproof. Mine's a '96 4WD standard cab 4.0 5MT, and has been pretty good, 115,000 miles. Pulling down only 20mpg tops, but what can one expect for 3.73 gears, even with overdrive. I'm looking at the Sport Trac as well, but it seems a bit upscale for my needs. Too bad smaller engines and a manual transmission aren't available.
  • i too have wiring problems with my 1991 Ford Ranger 2wd. Does any have a copy of the wiring schematics that they can email to me? This is driving me nuts!!! thank you
  • had battery check good had starter checked good
    replaced the stater relay, the voltage reglater new
    starter switch. help
  • just bought a 97 2.3 with the same problem. Did you find any ssolution?


    Keep it in

  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    i have a 97 ranger i was driving it a few days ago went to throttle down because of trafic and it quit pulling in drive and had no reverse i can turn the O/D switch off and works fine in forward gears and will go into overdrive when i am moving but when i stop i have to turn it off to move again and still no reverse this was an instant thing the trans had been working fine before and the O/D light was flashing after i let it sit for a few days the light quit flashing but still have the problems. any one got any ideas of what the problem is?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The sensor in the rear differential.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    called the dealer parts dept. they don't have a clue about a sensor in the differential for the trans.
  • Your ABS control box may be dead??? My dad had his go out in his 92 4X4 and it had to be replaced. Same issues... ie. ABS light on all the time. Breaks work fine. Still, the ABS does not and you won't know it until you have to slam on the brakes. I think it was around $300 for some one to stick a new one in for him? Not cheap, but you want to get your ABS fixed... IMO. :cry:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The sensor drives the ABS and cruise control. Your problem may be this sensor, or some other part of the ABS, as the other poster also said.

    You might should pay the money and have the ABS error code/s read. If the ABS light is flashing, I would think there should be some codes being set. Reading the ABS codes is not as simple as reading out the 'check engine codes'. I think this system even has a plug separate from the plug where you plug in to get the check engine codes.

    So, either take the vehicle to a good mechanic, one that knows how to work on ABS brake system (which is much more complicated than non-ABS), or throw parts at the problem, such as the sensor in the differential or the ABS control box......
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    it's not my ABS light flashing, it was the O/D light but it's not flashing anymore and my truck does not have cruise control my problems are in the transmission as i stated in my origonal post, not brake problems
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    several years ago i had a garage in indiana i was a first class mechanic and never shortcut anything, and had been working on vehicles for more than 30 years and i also rebuilt transmissions then i became disabled and lost track of the new computerized vehicles. so i am not entirly stupid about cars and trucks. with help from one of my neighbors with the heavy work i rebuilt the engine in mt 97 ranger. the head is from a 93 i had to seal up a water port under the intake but it works fine.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    i will try to explain the problem once again!
    with the O/D switch off i have forward gears and it shifts fine, but in reverse it will not move or slips badly--- with O/D switch on it will not move in drive or reverse i can pull the shift lever in 2nd it will move, it was an instant problem. the O/D light was flashing at one time but is not flashing at all now.! can any one tell me if the sensor on the drivers side of the transmission cause this problem? any help would be greatly apriciated!!!
  • I had the same on my 2000 B2500 Mazda(same truck) it kept pinging like you describe from ~80K to 128K when it was always pinging and then threw a CEL and shook like a wet dog, #3 cylinder was bad so new engine went in. It's been good now for 12K in 12 months, of course I also got a new vehicle at the same time so the B2500 doesn't get as many miles anymore (did another 26K on the new jeep and another couple on the wifes car on weekend getaways).

    That and a tranny solenoid are the only issues in 140k.

    BTW, I change oil and used synthetic 5-30 every 2500 miles since day one. I never expected a lower end problem! I figured it was the upper end at first....
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    i believe the first thing i would do is change the oil filter just to make sure you have good circulation before i go to extreams, there has been times i have had to change even new filters because they were defective.
  • Where is the inertia switch (fuel pump shut off) on a '94 Ranger with a 3.0 liter V-6. The Ranger was in a collision and I believe this has been tripped so that the vehicle doesn't want to start. I heard it was under the kick panel on the passenger side so I pulled that off and haven't been able to find it. :confuse:
  • I just scanned through all of the posts for the last year to find out about a pinging problem with my 3.0L. This site has answered a lot of questions, so I guess I should give something back. Anyway, I came across post 2285 (RE: Tranny Problems) that you might want to look at. I couldn’t find the original. Hope this helps.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It's behind the upper edge of the carpet, on passenger side, but near the 'tunnel'. There should be a button to push to reset.
  • I just started having the same problem. I know that the unlock feature is supposed to be disabled after the truck is off (anti-theft) but mine has quit unlocking the doors altogether at anytime. However the passenger side still works. Have you found a solution yet?
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