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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • Man, you got to give us more information than that... LOL You arent going to get any information back unless you tell us what model, engine, stuff like that.
  • I have 88 2.9 engine. It is experiencing something in the ignition system. At times it has no spark, then a day later it will be fine. Just replaced the distributor with a Napa rebuilt, started, next day no start. I have also replaced the coil, computer, cap, wires, and EEC relay. Any ideas.
  • Wife called and she was driving our 98 6cyl and said it cranks but quickly cuts off. I am thinking fuel pump system and relays though I have no experience with this system on a Ford.
    The temperature just took a drastic dive last night and wonder if that could be a cause or coincidence.
    Any suggestions or reference areas would be very appreciated.
  • I need some serious help here. I just bought my parents truck, 94 Splash with a 4.0. My dad was fed up with it; the engine has been rebuilt, new injectors, fuel pump, plugs and wires, coil pack. When it's damp out the truck spits and sputters and loses a lot of power. The Tachometer stops working and the check engine light comes on. Any suggestions please. I'm not mechanically inclined. :mad:
  • dannybdannyb Posts: 2
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, right off the top of my head - if the error codes point to bad O2 sensors, maybe change these out???????

    P.S. Typing in all caps is hard to read.
  • dannybdannyb Posts: 2
    tried that and no change guess i will be looking for vaccum leaks
  • Check all your grounds to the engine they might be loose or the nut to the ground may also missing, and check all your coil wires. i had this problem b4
  • The horn is almost impossible to see at all. However, looking from underneath the vehicle on the driver's side at the front of the wheel wheel you'll see a compartment between the plastic wheel well and the metal inner fender under the battery. If you stick your hand into that compartment, you'll feel the horn. The nut in front of the battery mounting plate, looking from the top,is the one that has to be removed to remove the horn.
  • Ranger sometimes will fire right up. Other times it'll just crank and crank. Usually if it hasn't started up I can wait a few minutes and try again. At this time it'll start right up or turn over and almost catch but die off. Doesn't seem like pressing the gas makes a difference in either mode. This happens whether it's hot or cold outside, whether it had started up earlier in the day, or whether I wear my red or yellow hat. I bought this car used and the previous owners recall the same thing happening. They just waited it out until it started up. I'd like to fix it. Any advice would be appreciated.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Possibly a bad fuel pump relay.

    When you turn the key 'ON' (not to 'START') the first time you should be able to hear the fuel pump run, for about 5 seconds or so. If you don't hear it, you don't got fuel.

    There are 2 or 3 relays in (or beside) the main fuse box under the hood. The cheep way to get by a while is to switch the relays around, hoping you will get a better one on the fuel pump. Course, the bad one then is on some other circuit, messing it up. The relays are identical.

    Best way is to buy at least one new one, when it will not start, pull a relay, put new one it, try to start again. When it starts, you've found the fuel pump relay and replaced it with a good one and you will be fine for several more years.
  • The exact same thing was happening with my 2000 Ranger XLT. I experienced the crank but no fire situation intermittently for about 3 months until the engine would no longer fire even when I left it alone for a few minutes or hours like it had before. It turned out that my fuel pump went out (expensive to repair). I bought my truck used with 34K on it (it was a fleet vehicle) so I suspect that whoever used it before me would let the gas tank run below a quarter tank regularly thus burning out the pump more quickly than I would anticipate (I'm at 55K miles now). I hope your problem is with the relays but be prepared to replace your fuel pump... :(
  • frohrsfrohrs Posts: 17
    Sounds like my 1995 Ranger. Turn the key to on you should here the fuel pump run a few seconds. When my ranger wouldn't start & I couldn't here the pump, I dropped the tank replaced the fuel pump ($120.00) and problem solved. I was also told that running your tank a 1/4 or less is hard on your pump?? I don't know if I want to believe that or not??

    Yes check your relays first before the last resort of replacing the pump!
  • Thanks for all the advice. Conundrum: fortunately or unfortunately I do hear the fuel pump run every time I turn the key to on. I maybe wrong about when the start up problem occurs. It mostly has this trouble starting after the engine has been warmed up. Just started it up cold this morning (outside temp 68 degrees) and it fired up each time (8 successive time). Yesterday, after driving around town, it sat for 2 hours and then decided to be temperamental. Any ideas?
  • Re: running on 1/4 tank or less leads to early fuel pump failure - everything I've read/heard suggests this is true. An electric fuel pump sits in the gas tank & must be fully immersed in the fuel to work efficiently. If your gas tank is less than 1/4 full on a regular basis, the pump may not be fully immersed, particularly on turns, inclines, etc. thus making the pump work harder & possibly burning out earlier than normal. Some suggest no less than 1/2 tank but I feel that is a little excessive. Regular fuel filter changes are crucial too (every 2 yrs./24K miles).
  • I also experienced the no oil pressure guage problem on my '99 Mazda B3000 (5-speed) when the engine is very cold. In northern VA, winter didn't arrive until late January just when my problem started. I found that the guage would show normal pressure after the third start cycle (on-off, on-off, on). I changed the oil yesterday to 5W-20 but that didn't help. I am thinking the next step is an oil pressure test. Any other thoughts? Thanks,
  • My 94 would get near, but not to empty, empty on the gauge and die wherever and whenever.

    Took it to the dealer and it was the $10.00 relays in the engine compartment. i believe in the same "block" as teh fusible links. Hope I helped. :shades:
  • I have a 99 Ranger XLT 3.0 and tonight the ABS light came on when I started it up. When I put it into drive and started out, the O/D started to flash as well as the Check Engine light. It shifted really hard and I barely made it home. She has around 82k. What could this be? She can't be dead yet!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    ABS sensor in the rear differential is broken. Something to try at least.

    The ABS sensor error codes are not 'usual' check engine errors and I think must be pulled with a different tool, from a different plug.

    But, it might still be worth it to have the error code pulled before throwing parts at the problem. If the light flashes, it should have set a code.
  • I'm hoping that the tranny isn't bad. This is the first time she's done this. I read that the tranny is controlled by the computer, is there some sort of sensor that may have failed? Not really sure on how to "pull the code."
  • I also have a 99 ranger xlt 2wd and the same thing is happening! I barely made it home and it shifted really hard. could this be the same thing?
  • I have a 98 Ranger 2.5L with around 220K on it. I can be driving along at freeway speeds or pulling out from a stop sign and shift into 2nd/3rd gear and it sounds like the engine just dies, decelerates like I just put on the brake and the check engine lite comes on. If I turn the key from the run position, nothing happens. If I turn the truck off and back on again, it starts up and away I go. This has happened several times in the last few weeks. Fuel pump? Ignition switch? Kill switch from alarm? Unfortunately I am usually in no position to stop and do any real trouble shooting. Happened when the fuel tank was 1/4. 1/2 and now 3/4. This happens a couple times week. Any ideas?
  • Of course the 4.0 is "poor on power". It only specs out at 160 horsepower, under the best of conditions. You are expecting WAY too much of this bargain basement ancient German made V-6. IF you want power, buy a Toyota or Nissan.
  • I just purchased two weeks ago and it only has 27K. It has 19.5 gal tank which indicated full when I left the lot. I have put219 miles on it, and I'm on my third tank of fuel. I checked mileage with this tank full. it took 16 gals of fuel and I traveled only 124 miles. That's just local driving,very few OTR miles. The truck runs and drives like a dream and no vibs in 4 wheel or normal drive, but less than 8 miles to the gallon there has to be a problem. Any help would be appreciated.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It's a truck.

    It is new - motor not 'broken in'.

    It's the middle of winter.

    You are probable doing in-town driving.

    These deliver low milage. All combined - very low milage.

    Now, my speach about milage. Unless you fill the tank, note the milage, drive a significant amount, fill the tank again, note the milage, subtract milage numbers and divide by the gallons it took to refill the tank - then you have no real idea what milage you are actually getting. Drove so-and-so on about 1/2;1/4;tank of gas is useless info.

    You also gave no info about the vehicle - manual/auto, 2/4 wheel drive, or which of 3 motors you have.

    In general, after the truck is broken in, you will probably get about 14mph in town, and about 19mpg on highway travel. Milage greater than this should be thought of as a 'bonus'.

    Again - it's a truck. They get terrible milage, even the small ones.
  • tank6779tank6779 Posts: 1
    Recently had some severe cold around town, back in January had a hose blow that froze up on me, so I took it in to have everything tested as the engine over heated, mechanic said everything was fine. Replaced thermostat, hoses, power flushed, tune up, oil. Now after a few weeks, start getting a load banging/knocking noise at low idle after running on the highway, or at higher speeds. Opened the hood to see if there was anything I could see as I revved the engine, and noticed top radiator hose was squashing. What do I do, love my truck, and need to fix it, has 127k on it.
  • tukeanutukeanu Posts: 10
    This is a follow up on a problem posted 3 months ago regarding pulsating brakes at low speed. Felt like a subdued ABS kicking in and vehicle would not stop as a result. Turns out you were right about it being the sensor in the front left wheel hub. However, you stated that the dealer said you could not replace the just the sensor. The whole hub assembly had to be replaced. The dealer here replaced just the sensor and it seems to have solved the problem. I practically told them what the solution would be but they recommended using the "diagnostics" anyway to see if there were any "codes". It seems that if they can't read any fault codes then they don't know what to do and have to guess. I told them to replace only the sensor and that was done. The cost in US dollars was as follows;
    Diagnostics - $90.00
    Sensor - $173.00
    Labor - $135.00
    Total with tax = $452.00
    (14% tax here in Ontario!!)
  • fm544fm544 Posts: 6
    I have a 98 Ranger XLT 3.0 automatic with OD that is a 2 wd. Recently the transmission has been acting up. It goes fine when first starting off (the control is set to be in OD) except that it seems to wind out first gear for way too long, shifting at about 3500 to 4000 RPM. From that point it shifts up thru the gears and even into OD if I'm going fast enough.However sometimes the OD Off light starts blinking and won't stop if I press in on the control button. While it is doing this if I come to a complete stop and then start off again it feels like it is starting off in 2nd gear. If I pull over and put it in Park, turn off the key and re-start it works fine again. What can be the problem?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Frank
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    there is a transmission control switch in the dash useualy behind the inst. cluster that can cause the problem also the speed sensor for the speedometer can cause it the speed sensor will cause a high upshift with harsh engagements hope this helps!
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