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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • koobykooby Posts: 2
    Hey Nailbunny, I found this answer on another forum. I doubt you're still trying to do this, but, in case you are, here it is:

    Dave, the cluster is well hidden on the Ranger... first, the trim panel around the radio has to be pulled back a little (two screws above the A/C knobs) to access one screw at the top left corner that holds the cluster trim, then the three screws on the underside of the top of the cluster lense, and the ones that are hidden behind the top of the driver's knee bolster after removing the knee bolster and the metal plate behind it. Then, the cluster trim pulls off, and the cluster itself has 4 screw (one in each corner) to remove it, three electrical connectors and it's in your lap. The bulbs you need are small 'peanut' bulbs, and they twist a 1/4 turn to remove/install. Generally, due to the labor involved, I recommend replacing all the bulbs once you're there, so you won't have to do this again next month.
    Estimated time for the job is one hour.
    Hope this helps...

  • I drive a 98 ranger with a 2.5 L. recently when driving at around 65 - 75 mph there is a strong shake, the steering wheel shakes along with the rest of the truck. I have checked the tires and pressure thinking that maybe something was wrong there but nothing. the tires are wearing properly and i have no idea what it could be. During idle or lower speeds the truck is perfectly fine. The problem only exists when driving at high speeds. Any ideas?

  • I have a 2000 Ranger XLT Ext Cab and I ran out of gas thinking that I still had some in the tank, at least that's what the gauge read. I reset my counter whenever I fill up and I had a total of 393 files on the counter when the truck died on me. I'm like you, I don't pay attention to the gauge anymore. I just put gas in it when I think I need it.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    check the driveshaft for play at both ends chalk the wheels and put the trans in nuetral if u-joints are ok check the tie rod ends and idler arm for play. also check the front wheel bearings and make sure there isn't any play in them as well
    hope this helps
  • terr1terr1 Posts: 1
    Two things, if the truck does not turn over check to see if you have an fluid leak
    oil or power steering that may blow fluid into the starter when you drive, any fluid penetrating starter will short out the starter. If the the engine turns over but does not start, there are relays in a black box near the battery, one of which controls the gas pump you can here it if you turn the ignition to the on position before starting the engine. Sometimes this relay causes a intermittent problem like when driving to one place then after re-entering the truck to go somewhere else it won't start. To identify the relay if the truck is starting, just pull out a relay until it does not start. If the truck is not starting just swap the relays from one position to another, they are the same type relays so just keep track of the original position.
    The relays are very inexpensive.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Is it an extended cab, with a split driveshaft? If so, the center 'bearing' or whatever that thing is, also wear out and can cause vibration.

    Look closely, or have a tire shop look, at all the tires, including the inside sidewalls. A belt inside the tire might have broken. Look for knots, bulges, etc.
  • Drive shaft or universal/center support bearing (you didn't say if it was an extended cab or not)
  • ran out of gas now it will not start
  • It is a regular cab. But thanks ill take a look at those. had to replace the universal on the old 89 a while back. thanks again revelationx
  • I have checked the drive shaft and it had no play....also i checked the front bearings and one of them had some play....replaced that one. I'll check the tie rod ends and idler arm like wookie1 suggested.

    Barry Baker
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    when you check the tie rods ect. make sure the front end is off the ground. when i had my 97 ranger the inner tie rod was causing my problem once i got it replaced i had all 4 tires spin balenced and it solved my problem. let me know how it works out have a great day!
  • I'm planning on looking at a 1990 Ford Ranger 2wd 5spd std. Regular Cab pickup. I was wondering if this truck would have a 2.0 or a 2.3 4cyl engine. Are there any major points to be checking besides the obvious on these trucks?

    Thanks in Advance

  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    If you would be so kind as tyo check this inquiry in our new Edmunds Answers section: What is the correct rear end for a 1999 Ford Ranger 4WD Supercab?

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • i have a 1992 ford ranger 4x4 2.3L 4 cyl, and i am almost positive that the TPS is bad so i went out and bought a new one but it is located behind the air intake sytstem and i can not seem to figure out how to get at it without removing the intake, does anyone have any insight on how to change the TPS?
  • My 2000 Ford Ranger is stuck in 4 wheel drive low. Is there a fuse a need to be looking at ?
  • fm544fm544 Posts: 6
    I have a 98 3.0 Ranger 2wd auto that needs a y pipe. Can I use one from a 2004 3.0 manual?? It would save me big bucks over a new one. Thanks
  • My Ranger XLT 4.0 L washer fluid comes out with low pressure. I put as new pump on today (mounted in the bottom of the fluid reservoir on the firewall side). This made no improvement. It squirts out about 3" up on the window.

    Any suggestions? No, its not frozen or clogged.
    Can the switch be dirty?

  • I have 1999 4x4 Ford Ranger with newer (35,000 miles) 3.0 V6 motor. DTC P1309 showing up. Truck runs like a top. I did notice that temp gauge moves up and down slightly during driving since engine light tuned on. Needle has always gone just beyond the "C" on gauge. Does heat sensor need to be replaced? What could it be?
  • I have the same problem with my 2001 Ranger Edge. Do you ever find a fix and what was it? Thanks
  • The Wipers, Speedometer and dome light don't work in my 2001 Ford Ranger. I replaced the wiper switch and checked the fuses to no avail. The problem started when my dome light was staying on and I pulled the bulb so not to run the battery down. Anyone have any fixes? Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, the dome light problem is the door open/closed switch. It is not on the front door jam, as on older cars, it is inside the door. You have to pull the door panel. It's somewhere on or close to the mechanism connected to the outside door handle. These switches get dirty or completely fail.
    Some people say a heavy dose of spray WD40 or elecrical cleaner from outside the door, thru the hole under the handle, can clean the switch enough to get it working again. This should have nothing to do with the wipers or speedometer.

    Is your ABS light on? Speedometer and ABS sensor can sometimes be related. The ABS sensor in the rear differential may be failed, or just dirty with metal grit. I would think there would be ABS codes set, if it is failed. Pulling the ABS codes is different, I think, from pulling the 'regular' 'check engine codes'. Overall, I don't have a good recommendation on the speedo or wiper problems.
  • liman1liman1 Posts: 7
    I have a 2003 Ranger standard cab. The carpet on the driver's side under the mat is wet, the padding seems wet too. I bought the truck new and it has been babied. Only 14000 miles. I would appreciate hearing any ideas as to what might be the cause. I looked under the truck and didn't see anything obvious. The dealer is having me bring the truck in on Friday, that is the day their water leak specialist is in. Thanks in advance.
  • nealaneala Posts: 2
    I have noticed a wet carpet on the passenger side. Please post what you find. Thanks.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    i have had the same problem and found out my heater core was leaking
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Could also be a clogged drain for the evaporator core. All depends if the "wetness" smells like coolant.
  • nealaneala Posts: 2
    Thanks to both of you. It didn't seem to smell of antifreeze, so I'll first pursue blocked drain & then heater core.
  • liman1liman1 Posts: 7
    The local leak expert, who finds and fixes leaks for several local dealerships, checked out my Ranger yesterday. He could not find any leak. He ran water all over the vehicle. He did not look at the underside of the vehicle. I asked him to put the car on a lift and look underneath. He told me that that was not necessary because the padding was dry. He said that if I had a leak, the padding would remain wet for a long time.

    I guess I will just have to keep my eye on this. He thought that maybe snow from my shoe had gotten under the rubber floor mat. I'm skeptical of this, because the carpet had been very wet. By the way, the wetness did not smell of coolant. If anything, it smelled like detergent. I still think the water may be getting in from underneath, and the detergent smell came from my last car wash. The wash includes an underbody spray. Also I frequently use a high pressure wand to wash off the underside of the truck. I would think that this is ok to do. Thanks all for your help. I'll post again if I have anything to add as time goes on.
  • I read my owners manual and located the w.washer pump relay switch #14 in the main control box under the hood.

    On a fluke I swithed the relay with a similiar one (trailer towing relay switch) and presto, the washer sprays like new. I priced a new relay at CTC for $26.95 (dealer item).

    Will pick one up tomorrow.
  • I had the same problem with my 95 Saturn, found out the frame is a two piece frame and there is a moulding on the roof drivers side. The dealer expert here told me to run a bead of silicone along each side of the moulding. I did and a year later no water leaks.
    This got so wet I had to use a wet vac and a space heater (3 days) to dry it out.

    Does your ranger have moulding on the roof?
  • joer43joer43 Posts: 1
    Anyone have install directions to install factory cruise control in a 2006 ranger with the 4.0 motor
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