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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • bigcat52bigcat52 Posts: 1
    What type of transmission fluid do i use in my 2004 ford ranger also is there a cabin air filter and where is it located?? thanks b.m.w.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Bad alternator, not charging the battery, which killed the first battery???

    Should have checked this first, a bad battery usually does not turn the 'red light' on. This indicates the battery is not receiving a charge, not that it is bad.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    -If you have the owner's manual, it will tell you. Off the top of my head, I don't know. There are several variations of tranny fluid, I would not guess about this. Find an owner's manual, or go to a shop with books that have this info. You don't want to put the wrong fluid in a tranny.

    -No cabin filter on a Ranger, any year.
  • redbusredbus Posts: 4
    I suggest using synthetics through out your truck. Amsoil makes synthetics and excellent filters. Synthetics will reduce your fuel use and extend your drain intervals. Ranger does not have a cabin air filter. Maybe the new Ranger will have one.
  • ozzie3ozzie3 Posts: 1
    I lent my 1998 ford ranger 4x4 to a friend who sunk my truck in the river it was completely submerged for about an hour. we let it sit for 2 weeks or so to dry out before we attempted to start it. I drained the power steering fluid, oil and gas. it now starts okay but when i put any load on the engine it seems to bog right down and has no power. It is a 5 spd manual and i'm hearing what sounds like the flywheel or a throw-out bearing noise as soon as I start it. the odometer is not working neither is the speedometer. also when i put it into 4wh drive the indicator light on the dash fails to illuminate and the 4wheel drive does not engage, all the other indicator lights on the dash work. Any suggestions on where to sart with any of these issues. thanks oz
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    It's a tribute to
    Ford that the truck starts at all, but sadly, I think you're fighting a losing battle. The problems with this truck will be endless, and probably culminate in engine failure, and likely rear end and transmission failure as well. The electrical gremlins will never end. I'd trade it in on something else as soon as possible if it were me.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Offhandly, what you missed:

    -Rear differential.
    -Front differential.
    -Brake fluid.
    -Front bearings.
    -All electronics.

    I too am amazed it started at all, or even moved.

    You might have one hope. Buy a similar wrecked truck, and start transferring things. Electronics for sure. I would think that in 2 weeks, the areas that you did not flush started to rust up big-time. And if you continue to have not opened up these things, the damage is daily getting worse. The differentials and transmission probably are gone. Remember, oil and all lub fluids are lighter than water and probably started coming out of these things. And they all have openings, even if only small vent holes. You got water into all of them.

    In a Cadillac forum, a guy documented bringing a 2000 Deville back to life after a flood. He bought a wreck. He did extensive flushes of the engine and transmission. Also all electronic modules had to be switched out or replaced. He pulled all the electric wiring and cleaned all connectors. Of course the Deville had much more than your truck. He worked all one winter on this. Even then, the car set multiple 'check engine light' codes that he had to work one by one.

    Have you learned not to loan your car? But, maybe, your friend is stepping up and paying for the damage?
  • My 1996 Ranger's serpentine fan belt fainally busted after 120K miles. The instructioners describe using an open end wrench to release teh automatic belt tensioner.

    Can anybody walk me through this?
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    there should be a diagram on the fan shroud that shows the correct position for your belt as far as the tentioner an open end wrench is not the best thing to use either a boxed end wrench or a breaker bar with a socket is safer
    best of luck!
  • jherrjherr Posts: 4
    I have a 92 Ranger 4 cylinder 2.3L. My turn signals stopped working. I checked the fuse and all the bulbs. The horn, the headlights, highbeams, hazards, radio all work. Is there a relay I need to know about? Any Ideas? I checked the inertia switch as well as the fuses in the motor near the battery.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    your flasher unit will also cause the turn signals to stop working. i would say thats what the problem is. hope this helps!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Yes, and your flasher unit is usually attached to the fuse panel, a quarter sized round aluminum plug in unit. Find and replace that, and you are probably back in business.
  • the speedometer,wipers,domelight all quit at the same time,they work when the key is in the on or acc position but will not work when truck is running.When I unplugged the RABS sensor on the differential they would not work at all so i replaced that sensor but still they dont work when truck is running. Its a 1998 ranger 2wheel drive manual trans 4 cyl please help
  • I know my '04 Ranger uses Mercon V, DO NOT MIX Mercon with Mercon V.
    There is no cabin filter in these vehicles.
  • I put new brake shoes in a 1998 ford ranger splash and I noticed the rear pass. side shoes were worn on the tops...The parking brake cable is too short and is putting pressure on the top of the shoes where the linkage fits into the brake shoe. Is there an adjustment on the parking brake cable?
  • I have a '98, 2.5L, with a hole in my catalytic converter. If I decide to replace rather than repair, is that something a novice can do ?

    Also, I have been looking for good references or a step-by-step guide, but am having trouble finding easy to understand information suitable for a mechanic like myself. Anyone have a good suggestion?
  • I have been looking for a harmonic balancer for 92 ford ranger with a 2.3 l, 4 cylinder. I have tried every resource I have. Everyone is out of stock. New or used, i dont care. Can anyone help?
  • I have the thump/clunk problem when stopping and taking off. I read a thread about drilling a 7/32 hole into my split yoke near the front u-joint and then installing a 1/4" grease fitting so I can grease the spline yoke....would this be the yoke between the rear end and the u-joint back the furthest?

    Here's what I read:

    "Please post this everywhere you can. Here is the solution and it doesn't invlove driveshaft replacement or removal. Drill a 7/32 hole in your split yoke close to your front u-joint(so you don't drill into your splines). Purchase a 1/4x28 grease fitting 1/4x28 tap. Install grease fitting and inject heavy duty grease into your driveshaft. This will coat your splines. Do not overfill or you will rupture your boot that covers your 2 piece connection. Easy to do and if driveline slop comes back, get the grease gun out and recoat in minutes. Worked great on my 2000 extended cab."
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    i used to have one for a 93 ranger 2.3 don't know if i still have it or not. i will look through my parts and see i kept a few things my email is i live in Ruskin,Florida
  • joorjoor Posts: 1
    I have a 94 ranger that won't start sometimes after it has been driven. Once it starts it will run fine. Sometimes I shut it off and it will start right up. Other times it only cranks. Battery new, fuel pump new, fuel pump relay new. When it won't start I take out the fuel pump relay, Put it back in and it usually starts. Can someone steer me to a solution?
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    try putting a bottle of gas dryer in your tank, if you have any water in your tank that will take care of it. also you might want to think about changing your fuel filter sometimes you can get a lot of setiment from the tank especially if you pump gas when a refill truck is pumping gas in the station tanks.
    hope this helps!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    New fuel filter?

    You got a bad, new relay?
  • Am looking for any tips or advice on changing out my gas gauge sending unit (that has not worked for a few years) and the fuel pump which just failed. (Was hoping it was a clogged fuel filter..but not so). Does anyone know where I can get a star bit that will work on the bed to raise it up to access the fuel tank. Seems a couple of local parts houses do not stock the correct sized bit? I welcome any thoughts or tips on doing the changeout on this particular model. Thank you in advance
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Drop the tank? Or do you think taking the bed off is simplier?
  • frohrsfrohrs Posts: 17
    Dropping the fuel tank is mutch easier than taking off the bed. If you take off the bed your going to need about 4 people on each corner to do it right. I dropped my tank twice once for a fuel pump and the other to replace the fuel tank hose. Of course make sure the tank is empty have a nice floor jack (craftsman motorcycle jack works perfect for this) Undo the two straps that hold the tank on and be carefull of any wires you have to disconnect.

    Much easier than taken the bed off. I dropped the tank with a friends help the first time and the second time I did it myself.

    Good Luck!
  • I'm looking at a used 2006 with the 4.0 liter. The truck looks real clean and has only 44k miles. Any issues I should be aware of? Any help would be great. Thx in advance.
  • What did you come up with?My 2001 is doing the same thing.Thanx,Mark
  • I have just arrived via a tow truck yet again!! This thing has quit while shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. Just died outright. I let it sit and tried it again checked and reset the safety switch under the dash and tried it again. I disconnected the battery cable and let it sit and reconnected it and put the ignition in on position after for 2 minutes it was still dead and yes I had 3/4 tank of gas. I have replaced the fuel pump in this piece of machine 2 times in 4 years. Is there anyone out there that can offer a suggestion as to what else it could be. I am ready to go to Chevy if this thing doesn't quit letting me down. Please guys I am on my own here and need help. Any info you can offer will be appreciated and I have tools and know how to turn a wrench just need some ideas as to what to turn it on. No I don't have a code tester and hope I don't have to invest in one. It's winter,snow and colder than a well digger here. Thanks guys :confuse:
  • i had the same problem with an aerostar change fuel pump 3 times then found the average fuel pump was garbage had to go to napa paid a little more but for 5 years after till i sold it worked fine
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