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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • i have a 2000 ranger XLT sport 2.5L 5 first the trans would let me put it in gear but wouldn't let me shift gears at all,now it won't let me do's like it's stuck in N...i've checked fluids and there fine.i don't have a clue..the clutch,throw out,and everything a brand new...need help please...
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    if the clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder are working ok then your pressure plate is weak and needs replaced.
  • Trust me dude! There is nothing you can do to improve the mileage on that 4.0. I had the 4.0 in my 97 Mazda B4000 and in my 99 Ranger and I could do all types of things to improve horsepower and torque, but nothing for mileage. IT"S JUST A GAS HOG! Loved the truck, but hated the mileage, so I went to a full size with a V8 and got better mileage. :)
  • Won't crank, just clicks. Battery, alternator, starter have been checked. Selanoid near battery and battery cable connectors have been replaced, but did not fix the problem. Will start intermittently, though laboring, or will start if pushed off and pop clutch. Will not start with a jump. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • Starter Selanoid is me I had the same problem and did the same things u did..its the solenoid on the starter not near the battery
  • I had the same problem. Turned out to be bad contact between my battery cables and the battery terminals. I took the cables off, cleaned the inside of the connectors and cleaned the battery posts and that solved the problem. Easy enough to give it a try. Let me know if this works for you.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    you mentioned the battery had been checked, try putting a differant battery in it even though the battery checked good does not mean it has the power to crank it over. ford starters are normaly high torque
    i have replaced batteries that have checked ok but lack the cranking power to turn the engine over.
    hope this helps!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Or, the battery cables have corrision inside the insulation. Pull insulation back, squeeze the cables, etc. See if you have a solid cable inside.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    I've got an 08 Ranger with 41K miles and had a vibration in the steering wheel when braking, usually means rotors are warped. I took it to my local independent shop that I've been using for years and trust their judgement. They said it needed new pads AND rotors, they couldn't just resurface the rotors as they would have then been too thin and out of specs. I understand the need for pads as 41K miles isn't unusual. But in all my life of driving, I've never needed new rotors so soon. I live in Florida so I'm really surprised they warped at all and can't think of a reason for that.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    i think if it were me i would have looked at the rotors, seems kinda strange they would ware out in only 3 years! and if new ones were installed i would look at them as well to make sure they were new and not turned. even though the shop is one that you have done business with for years there are some mechanics that will tell you one thing and do another. because of the econamy. i installed a new set of plugs in my own vehicle and had some work done on it by friends at a trusted shop when he got finished he tried to charge me for the new plugs that i installed myself, i went to the owner about the charge and told him i put them in myself. he discharged the mechanic.
  • rangeralrangeral Posts: 4
    After 4 or 5 seconds, my 2006 Ranger XLT 4x4 (52k miles) has the "clunk" driveline sound after startup, while still in park and in 2wd mode which seems strange. A slow take-off right away, forward or reverse, will emit the same loud clunk. Just bought it used and the dealer has already lubed the slip joint. Not sure of the purpose of a slip joint, but still the cause? I'm sure the dealer will not want to replace it, but it's still under the 60 day warranty. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Is it the ABS doing its self-check?
  • Check you torque converter bolts
  • rangeralrangeral Posts: 4
    Abs is fine. Not that. Definitely a drive line issue. Thanks for the reply.
  • rangeralrangeral Posts: 4
    Will do little chevy. Thanks.
  • I have a 85 Ranger 4x4 it will run for 5-10 miles then shut down but will restart after 45 seconds and run for 5-10 miles then do it all over again any ideas what it could be
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    change the gas filter it's clogging up. i had an 84 that done the exact same thing.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Looks to me like it's a very complicated Thermostat Housing.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    it's a thermostat bypass tube it is designed to allow anti-freeze or water to circulate while the engine warms up.
  • I had to slow down for an accident on the side of the highway; when I tried to accelerate, the engine revved up but the car did not accelerate. I pulled over and turned the engine off. It started but died soon after. Now the engine wont even turn. Fuel pressure, engine temp, and everything else I checked was fine. Any ideas on what the problem is?? Possibly a piston not firing? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Is your A/C being left on when you shut the truck off or being turned on as soon as you start it up? I had the same sound and spoke to a friend of mine who drives an F-450. He says it's A/C related and it doesn't happen if your a/c is off before startup. I tested it and the sound went away for me.
  • That's exactly it. For some reason, the A/C compressor creates a clunk noise that transfers to the interior. Drove me and my mechanic a bit crazy. Still not sure exactly how the noise is produced as it sounds more like a driveline clunk than anything else. A/C works fine so I'll attribute it to a characteristic of Ford compressors. Thanks for the reply Texas 05. Nice to know I'm not crazy.
  • I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 6 cyl 4.0 liter.. It keeps misfiring, and bank 1 and bank 2 lean. I changed all 6 plugs, wires, and the coil pack. Afterwards it seemed better, but wasn't fixed. Check Engline light is back on. Before, OBD said cylinder 4 and 6 were misfiring and now it's cylinder 1. The o2 sensor underneath on my tailpipe was recently changed. I hooked up a gauge showing fuel pressure and it read 72psi.. It's supposed to be between 54-62.. Would this cause it to run bad and misfire?? I need help, next step is to take it to the dearlership and I want to avoid that If I can..
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Ok, my experience is with a 94 4Liter. And I think you have a completely different motor, it changed about 1999 or so.

    But on mine, the intake loosened up. It started using a lot of oil all at once. It went from using less than a quart in a 4,000 mile chance cycle, to one morning turning on the 'Low Oil' light, and it was about 1 1/2 quart low. I read about the loose bolts, so I went over the intake tightening it down. Started in the center, then back and forth, toward both end. And several were loose, and all needed some tightening.

    This solved my oil usage problem instantly.

    It had 8 or 9mm bolt heads, and I used a 1/4 inch drive with a flex drive.

    Just something you might check. On mine the loose intake allowed an oil passage have oil pulled into the intake. On yours, it might be allowing an air leak into the intake, making it run lean. Also look at all the rubber hoses. A leak in any one might make it run lean. Look also at the large rubber, or plastic hose the pulls air from the air filter into the intake. A leak here sure would make it run lean.
  • I have a 99 ranger 98,000 milkes with the 3.0 Flex motor. With the engine off the fan turns with same amount of movement/ resistance at operating temp as it does when it's cold . Should I not be able to move it at all once the the engine has become hot ? I am guessing the clutch is bad ? Any help is appreciated..thanks in advance
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I'm not sure, but I would think you have electric fan/s on this car. The viscous coupling fan you described haven't been used on any of my autos in many years.

    An electric fan will freewheel the same at cold or hot temps.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    the fan clutch is set to move weather it is running or not. it is filled with oil so it turns at a specified factory speed, if it is to tight it will cause the engine to overheat same way if it turns to freely. if it needs to be replaced most parts stores can tell if it's bad.
    hope this helps
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The orginial poster was talking about a 1999 Ranger.

    Doesn't it have an electric fan?
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 116
    did you look under the hood to see if it is electric? if it's on the engine then it has a clutch, if it's on the radiator then it's electric, you mentioned clutch fan in your origonal post
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    I'm having a hard time finding antifreeze that matches the specs as listed in my owner's manual. I've got a 2008 Ranger 3.0L V6 and the spec is WSS-M97B51-A1. Would one of the PEAK or PRESTONE brands that say "good for all makes and models" work?
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