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Mazda Protege Basic Maintenance Questions



  • I'm having the same problem! Have you gotten an answer?
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Hold the clock button in until display beeps and starts flashing, then use the SCAN/AUTO button to either change hours or minutes.
  • i'm almost positive that i tried that. when i held it in, nothing happened. maybe i wasn't holding it down long enough?
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    You've got to hold the button a few seconds.
  • Hi! If I had brothers I'd ask them about this: I have a 2000 Mazda Protege with 88,000 miles. I really haven't done anything for it, except buy 2 new sets of tires (no more cheap tires from now on!), new filters when needed, and a flush that I can't specify at about 50,000.

    Can you please tell me what I need to do in order to drive this car for many more years? Am I too late? Thanks for any help - Sara
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    You could try checking the appendix of your owner's manual.
    Also, there is an excellent online manual which includes in the general introduction (00 section) the maintenance schedule. Also, it may be a good idea to ask the garage that you are using to do an overall check of the car. For starters, you'll likely need new spark plugs and have your transmission fluid flushed. Also, it's getting awfully close to replacing your timing belt; you don't want to procrastinate too long with that service.
  • shirleyhshirleyh Posts: 3
    I have a 98 Mazda Protege LX with 60.700 miles on it. Took it for oil change etc and mechanic said (without driving it) that I should replace the 4 struts due to age of the car and that they should have been replaced at 50.000 miles. The car drives great and since it is expensive to replace all 4 (quote was $913.00) I need to put this off for awhile. How do I know when I really need new ones?
    Please advise
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    98 Mazda Protege LX with 60.700 miles ... drives great ... mechanic said (without driving it) ... replace the 4 struts due to age

    Curious. It sounds like you may need a new mechanic more than new struts. I test my shocks / struts by leaning on the corner of the car and watching it bounce back up. If it rebounds more than twice the shocks are likely worn. Also, if you don't feel safe turning corners or stopping because the car leans excessively then you would be wise to have the car checked. Otherwise, I would keep on driving ... to the next mechanic.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,338
    Usually around 80K you start testing the struts or even relying on your own judgment about how the car feels. 60K sounds a tad premature but you can inspect for leakage, unusual tire wear, or instability on hard turns or bumps.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    The mechanic you spoke to, is a thief. Find a new mechanic.

    As far as the struts go, the struts on my P5 have over 110,000 miles on them and show no signs of wear. Generally, when they are bad, they will rattle and you might hear a clunking noise. As Autonomous mentioned, the bounce test is valid also. Even so, if the car drives well, keep driving. Struts are not a preventative maintenance item.
  • shirleyhshirleyh Posts: 3
    Thank you for the valuable info. I think women get taken advantage of when it comes to auto repair!
  • shirleyhshirleyh Posts: 3
    Thank you for the info. I think because I am a woman I was conned a little.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    because I am a woman I was conned a little

    Unfortunately it happens, but not only to women. We're all here trying to learn as much as we can.
    Have a great summer riding your Pro!
  • 2002pro22002pro2 Posts: 4
    I live in halifax, canada where we have very very crappy roads, and after the winter I need new struts for my 02'LX 2.0. Any suggestions for some GOOD ones?
  • 2002pro22002pro2 Posts: 4
    Ive been to every automotive store in the whole damn city and could not find a Hayes repair manual for my 02' Pro LX 2.0, any body have one they could possibly send?? My credit is maxed out..(lol) i can't order one.
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Free online shop manual;

    If you don't have the money for a service manual I don't know how you will be able to afford struts. Might try a salvage yard.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    ... halifax, canada where we have very very crappy roads ...

    Ah, beautiful Halifax! My memories of Halifax include the steep descent from centretown to the waterfront. That must take a toll on the brakes as well as the suspension. Also, being a seaport doesn't that spell corrosion?

    But, if you want to feel better, just come to the island of Montreal where the roads swallow cars. It's a constant battle for the city to keep patching the roads after each winter's ravages. I love the place but it can be wicked on your machine.

    I don't know what to say about replacing the struts other than start saving your money for that credit card bill. Personally, I wouldn't go for salvaged struts unless I wasn't planning to keep the car.
  • 2002pro22002pro2 Posts: 4
    LOL it's not about the money, i'm working on the credit card bill but im just not able to order a repair manual because the card is maxxed currently. So thank you for the manual. But for the srtuts, i just need to know a good brand so i can go buy them. I don't need credit conselling!! :mad: cards get maxxed out, [non-permissible content removed] happens.
    My question is what are good struts to buy for a city with bad bumpy roads?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Assuming you have a good garage, I would:
    1. call a local Mazda dealer and ask them which struts they would recommend; ask them for a quote with the price of the parts separate from the labour; if they are OEM parts ask if there are any cheaper alternatives with a similar/better warranty;
    2. call a local auto parts supplier to ask them how much they would charge for the parts.

    What you may find is that it may be cheaper going through an independent garage to install non-OEM parts.

    Otherwise as you say [non-permissible content removed] happens. Good luck!
  • bocatripbocatrip Posts: 194
    I am planning on purchasing a 99 DX Protege with 70,000 miles that is leaking from the crankshaft and or cam seal. I understand I need to change the timing belt. He wants to change the water pump and all the belts and gaskets as well. The price is $700. The seller is paying for the job. Does this sound fair?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    99 DX Protege with 70,000 miles that is leaking from the crankshaft and or cam seal. I understand I need to change the timing belt. He wants to change the water pump and all the belts and gaskets as well.
    Who is "he"? A salesman, an owner, a mechanic?

    I would not buy a used car without having my mechanic check it over thoroughly. If you don't have a trusted mechanic you're running the risk of buying someone else's problem.
  • bocatripbocatrip Posts: 194
    I have taken this 99 Protege that I am considering to purchase to a Japanese Repair shop in my area and the car was put up on a lift. I could see clearly the oil leak from the front crank area. I was told that this sometimes happens with the crankseal and/or camshaft seal. The timing belt would have to be done at 90,000 miles anyway and the mechanic will only do the job if the waterpump is also replaced. I told the seller that if he does all the repairs I will purchase the car for his asking price of $4200. All the belts, and valve cover gasket will be changed as well. The dealer quoted $850 with tax for the job and this mechanic will do it for $700. The Seller is paying for everything. I will be getting a 12 month /12 Thousand mile warranty on the job. I'm please with this arrangement as I will be getting a car with 70,000 miles, new tires, new timing belt and water pump and belts, all origianl paint,ice cold air, very stong engine and transmission that steers straight with no noises from suspension, axles, or anywhere else. I had a 2002 Protege that my daughter totalled. This car runs as well. I will be able to test the car again after the job is done and before I purchase.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Sounds like you've done your homework.

    You may not want your daughter to do the test drive. :surprise:
  • bocatripbocatrip Posts: 194
    Not a chance! I don't even like sitting in the passenger seat. :) :)
  • bocatripbocatrip Posts: 194
    The engine on my 99 1.6 runs very smooth, however in drive I notice a vibration at the gear shift lever. There is no clunking when going from Park to drive nor do I notice much engine movement when reving in park. Would this be an indication of weak motor mounts?
  • I bought my daughter her first car, a 97 and she just adores it. Right now the engine light is on ( code for something in the EGR system) I pulled the EGR and it is not stuck open or closed and will hold liqued (therefore not leaking). The car is very hard to start in the morning, but once it starts it seems to run well and is ok for the rest of the day. Any Ideas on what to check next, thanks.
  • 11b33t11b33t Posts: 51
    Highly suggest you get the CEL code read and post what it reads. BTW, you can get the computer code read for free @your local Auto Zone...
  • oldman15oldman15 Posts: 43
    My 2003 P5 88,000 miles, produces a low groaning type noise that increases in pitch w/ speed. At over 30 mph, makes noise w/ clutch in or out, so it seems not to be tranny related. Noise stops if I turn the steering wheel to the right while car is in motion. Either something is rubbing against a tire, or front gear problem, or bearing problem, or,...
    Before I take it in and am at the mercy of their cash register, thought I'd get some advise from you all.
    Any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,338
    I'd look at the power steering pump--fluid, belt tension, leaks, etc.

    Also wheel bearing noise is possible.

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  • Hi All,
    I got a 2001 Protege LX 2.0. Recently I hear some cranking noise from front left bottom when I do the U-turn (left U-turn). I went to mechanic and he said there is a problem with left axle. But after I changed the left front axle ($180 cost), there noise is still there. Does anyone got any idea about this problem? Thanks~~
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