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Mazda Protege Accessories and Modifications



  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    How long did it take you, and what tools did you need?
  • theparallaxtheparallax Posts: 361
    I took it to a local shop, I don't have the necessary tools. It's about a 5 hour job if you know what you are doing. Keep in mind you will need to do an alignment after this.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    I recall needing spring compression tools, which I can borrow from the local AutoZone, but I wasn't sure what else may be needed. You're right, a 4-wheel alignment will be needed, so why not take the whole job to a shop that's set-up for it?
  • alternatoralternator Posts: 629
    I would like to tap into the wire going to my back-up lights without removing the rear light housing completely (to install a back-up alarm). As near as I can tell, the available wires are black (2), black + white (2), green + yellow, red + yellow and green. Does anyone have ready access to the wiring diagram for the 2000-2003 Mazda Protege and will tell me which of these is the back-up light (or reverse light in Mazda vernacular) wire?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    1. Detach all wires from rear light housing.

    2. Have assistant put car in reverse.

    3. Touch wire pairs to tongue, one pair at a time.

    You'll know when you've found the right pair.


  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    ... detach one pair at a time from back of housing (if removable) and watch when the reverse light stops functioning when aforementioned assistant shifts the car into reverse. Bingo!

    (How's that for a redundant post?)
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Better yet, you can buy bulbs with built-in alarms and save yourself and your harness. JC Whitney sells them if you can't find them at your local parts store under the Grote or Signal-Stat brands.
  • alternatoralternator Posts: 629
    Good idea, but they don't make those in a version to replace the 7440 bulb in the Pro.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I just noticed what bulb it uses.

    Ok, looked at the Wiring Diag. The hot wire for backup is Red/Yellow and the ground is Black.

    Hope that helps.
  • alternatoralternator Posts: 629
    it's so hot in my garage right now that it may be a few days before I can follow thru on this. But your info should be the answer. Will let you know.
  • feelanderfeelander Posts: 3
    hey everyone, just bought my p5 last week and i didnt get the factory alarm option. now i am thinking that i want it. has anyone bought and installed the mazda alarm for their p5? i dont want to buy it and then find out i am in over my head. or would an aftermarket alarm be better?
  • smashersmasher Posts: 31
    OK. I've still got that New Car Paranoia with only 500 mi. on the car so far. I posted about a week ago regarding transmission whine in 2nd gear.

    The closest thing I could find to a relevant TSB on this was TSB 0002993, which addresses transmission whine at certain speeds due to "a resonance that is generated at varying levels between the primary and secondary gears" which, they say, isn't a problem. (I found this on the Protege FAQ page.) This is in all 3rd generation Proteges.

    I went to the dealer for a cargo tray, and stopped by the service dep't to ask about it. They said they'd look at it during the first scheduled service. That's fine with me; I don't think it makes much sense to try to diagnose random noises until the car's broken in anyway. Chalk it up to getting used to a new car. ("The interior isn't blue! Is that normal?!? Do they all do that?!?")

    Also: I replaced the OEM front speakers with Pioneer TS-A6870R's. These went right in without problems, though I had splice the electrical connections into the door's wiring harness. (I.e., the Mazda connectors didn't fit.) The rain shields from the OEM speakers transferred to the new ones without alteration.

    If anybody's interested, I can post pics, or put up a separate web page on a separate site.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    How do they sound? Better I hope?
  • smashersmasher Posts: 31
    MUCH better. It was between the Pioneers and the comparable Alpines, which were about $15-$20 more. The Alpines sounded a tiny bit better, but not $15-$20 better. Either way, they're a big improvement over the OEM speakers, with much clearer sound, especially in the high end. This is in a 2003 P5, with the spare-tire subwoofer and the tweeters behind the side mirrors. I'm sure they'll sound even better once I transfer over the (fairly low-end) Alpine head unit I pulled from my last car, but I'm not really in a big hurry to peel apart the dash just yet.

    Anybody out there have experience going from double-DIN to single-DIN? What did you use to fill in the extra slot? An OEM part? A simple cheap pocket? How does it look?
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    The OEM pocket from the MP3 should work fine, although it is expensive ~$90. Another that should work is the one from the 99-00 Miata ~$25. The main difference is the Miata pocket does not have the flip-down door.
  • smashersmasher Posts: 31
    OK. I've decided to go with a Yakima rack, mainly because I was able to buy one second-hand from a friend. I also had a chance to see somebody's P5 with a Yakima rack installed, so I knew it could be done.

    This guy has some information about roof racks on a Protege5, and his experience with them. After some experimentation, he ended up removing the factory crossbars and installing a Yakima rack. He says the Thule 400-series feet don't fit on a P5 with a factory rack (even with the crossbars removed), so if you have the factory rack the only alternative is to go with Yakima.

    The Yakima site says that you'll need the following equipment as a minimum:
    2 48" bars
    4 Q Towers
    2 Q102 Fit Kits
    4 lock cylinders

    Once you have this stuff, you can add bike carriers, kayak carriers, etc.

    One of Q102 Fit Kits I bought didn't include the proper instruction sheet for a P5; it was an earlier printing which showed fitting dimensions only for the Ford Focus. (The P5 and the Ford Focus use the same fit kit! There go those rumors again!)

    Anyway, in case you didn't get them in your kit, here are the proper dimensions:

    M1 (front crossbar width, inside to inside): 39-1/2"
    M2 (windsheld trim to front Q-tower): 8"
    M3 (rear crossbar width, inside to inside): 39-1/8"
    M4 (front to rear crossbar distance, center to center): 32"

    The easiest way I found to get the right M1 and M3 dimensions is to measure in from the ends of the crossbars. For 48" crossbars, it's:

    M1: 4-1/4" from each end
    M2: 4-7/16" from each end

    (NOTE: If I'm repeating anything that's already in the documentation, I apologize; I dead-reconed this from the Fit Kit and from tinkering with a second-hand set, without any additional documentation.)
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    Get the one from the previous Protege (??-98). It cost me only $11. No door, just a bin, but I couldn't justify paying $90 or $110 for a pocket with a door.
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    I installed a Thule 889 bike rack. I've since modified it to remove the additional Thule front crossbar. The rails attach directly to the Mazda factory roof rack now, which with the moonroof deflector, has practically eliminated any wind noise from the rack.
  • smashersmasher Posts: 31
    Update to my previous post: I think Yakima got the M4 measurement wrong; it should be closer to 25", which corresponds to an arrow stamped into the roof inside the door surround. I just talked to their technical support, who are working to confirm the correct dimension.

    Crossbars seem to fit fine above the arrows, so the other dimensions in the fit kit seem to be correct.

    I'll update when/if I get confirmation of the correct dimensions from Yakima.
  • smashersmasher Posts: 31
    Yakima is correct, of course. I, um, measured wrong. Or something. But their dimensions are correct; the front/rear crossbar pitch is indeed 32", and the Q-towers fit fine at that point. I'm not sure why the indentations in the door surrounds are where they are, but they don't seem to have any bearing on roof rack tower location.

    Anyway. I installed all the Yakima stuff (CORRECTLY this time) on Wednesday, left on Thursday with my road bike locked into one of the Steelhead channels, and went 600+ miles with nary a peep.

    Car is breaking in nicely, and the 2nd gear whine I mentioned in other posts seems to be subsiding as the gearbox loosens up. Engine is smoothing out, too.
  • icvciicvci Posts: 1,031
    While changing the oil this past week I took a look at the air intake. How many baffles does it need? Looks like there are 3 on the first stage. Then there appears to be a condensate area. Then it drops down about 12-14" before it enters the filter area.

    I took off the first stage and I'm driving around with it like that until I get home. It really doesn't do much but add a little more throat. I'm thinking about cutting off the part that drops just before the filter and clamping a piece of PVC on it. That drop can't be anything but a resonator/baffle, I think.

    From what my friend (who's very close to Mazda R/D) has told me, it's next to impossible to get anything more out of the 2.0. I'm not looking for more H/P, just a little bit of growl. Not to be confused with that buzzy rap of the fart-can exhaust.

    Has anyone here added an air intake?
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I know some who have gotten the Injen CAI. Essentially, all it does is make more noise and rev a little faster. Essentially, you would need to replace the whole exhaust from the headers back to get any appreciable increase out of the 2.0L. That is where it is restrictive. If you live in a state that doesn't do emissions testing (SC or TN for instance), you can essentially rebuild your engine using parts from the Japanese spec 2.0L and get about 170HP out of it. Corksport will sell you these parts. Another option is to get the Mazdaspeed Turbo kit that is coming out, or the turbo kit from Flyin' Miata for $3595.

    Links: oreId=10001&langId=-1
  • icvciicvci Posts: 1,031
    Nope boggse, I'm just interested in sounding a bit better. Maybe a cat-back exhaust someday. For now, the most I'll do is an intake.

    Too bad they charge so much. These companies are making a killing. It doesn't cost much to mandrel bend a foot and a half of aluminum, throw on a couple of rubber connectors and top it off with a high intake filter. K&N wants $500??? For no appreciable performance gain?!?!? What a joke. A cat-back exhaust can be had for $500. Suspension upgrades with real world performance can be had for $500.

    The really sad part is some people are buying it.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    If I were you, I would spend the money on an RB or Borla exhaust and forget the intake. At least with the RB, you know you will get 4.7HP out of your $449, and it will sound better. Neither K&N or Injen have Dyno results listed for the Protege. I am sure this is because the improvement is so minimal.
  • icvciicvci Posts: 1,031
    Oh I hear that. Like I said, I can't believe anyone would pay the money they are asking. A solid intake can be had for $150 or less and a bolt on exhaust will run three times that.

    I'll probably just modify the baffle/resonator. I'm 99.9% positive the last area on it is for noise reduction.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    I've added a Monster Flow intake (short ram intake, not CAI) that I got off a fellow Pro owner that was selling his Pro to get an RX-8. It only cost me $50 CDN.

    AEM has results from their intake for the Pro, although, I can't remember if it's a 1.8L or a 2.0L that they test. At any rate, check out their site.

    IMO, the intake I added makes the engine have a more throaty sound that is especially noticeable at WOT.
  • reitrofreitrof Posts: 122
    I got mine off eBay for 35 bucks shipped. Works great.
  • icvciicvci Posts: 1,031
    Would you post a link to a similar one on ebay?
  • icvciicvci Posts: 1,031
    I've seen it there before. Where does all of the wirng that connects to the current intake go?

    Do you have any pics of it installed in your P5?

    I had a DAC intake on my CRX and it was a breeze to install. I've never seen so many wires coming from the intake before though.
This discussion has been closed.