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Volvo 850 Wagons



  • dwinerdwiner Posts: 13
    My 96 855T also has the ABS/Tracs failure intermittently. I believe that Tracs uses ABS so if ABS fails, Tracs is shut off hence the lights often are lit together.
    The ABS control module seems to be a known problem area. I pulled the ABS sensors and cleaned them to no avail. This model has the ABS module mounted under the ABS pump, not on the firewall. I've been able to get the top two screws out in order to replace it, but can't get at the bottom two. Any hints from some who have replaced it successfully? Is the module repairable, or only replaceable?
  • klarckklarck Posts: 8

    As you probably know to remove the ABS Module you will need a E5 Torx Wrench Socket (This is the female version of a standard Torx wrench). If you do not have one it should be easy enough to get from you local machine tool supply.

    The module IS reparable. Go to Vic Rocha’s site. I have used his service and highly recommend him. In addition to having a better than stock module, the cost is less than 1/3 of a new unit. His web site is:

    As for hints to replace the unit. Make sure you have the right tool. I used a ¼” drive. Fit the socket onto the screw, and then put the drive on. Do Not over-tighten the screws when replacing. As for more detail, Vic’s site has excellent instructions.

    Good Luck
  • fitzy2fitzy2 Posts: 11
    I am getting ready to sell my '95. 850 wagon. I have had a good experience and just wanted to wish all you Volvo people the best of wishes and happy driving.
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    Sorry to see you leave the Volvo discussions...glad to see you in the Subaru ones though!
  • zakezake Posts: 2
    I am thinking of purchasing a 1995 850 turbo wagon. I don't know much about Volvo's, I have always owed VW' s. Can anyone please give advice at what to look for and how strong are the turbo on this year. Mileage is 112,000
  • awd2003awd2003 Posts: 45
    My non-turbo wagon has 100,000 miles. Whenever I hit bumps in the road the driver's seat moves by itself. Since it is a power seat, could it be the switch?
    How difficult or expensive is it to replace the rear seal on the engine? I have an oil leak. The last question is about the transmission. How many miles will I get from the auto tranny? I still get 25MPG.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    A good friend of mine has a 1997 850 GLT that just went over the 200,000 mile mark. Still has the original engine, automatic transmission and turbo
    (he uses Mobil 1 synthetic and periodically treats the engine with Slick 50). I've ridden in it recently and it is still going strong. I don't think he had the rear seal replaced yet, but I'll ask him anyway.

    He gets around 28 mpg on the highway, and around 22-25 around town.
  • gavingavin Posts: 2
    Hello Volvo Fans,

    I am interested in purchasing a '95 Volvo Turbo Wagon that has 114K miles on it. I drove, and it seems to drive fine, no noises, very firm solid driving car. I enjoyed it from the start. Guy wants $6500, probably can get down to $5500-6000. The mileage is obviously my concern, but I think it has a bunch more miles in it. What do you guys think? Any serious concerns? I would be purchasing it from a private seller, and will be taking it to my mechanic prior to purchasing it. Let me know what you think. Thanks
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    check his maintenance records.
    If the car was well maintained then it has alot of miles left in it.
    If memory serves the timing belt interval on those cars was every 60k, so have your mechanic check it out.
    overall the 940's were pretty bulletproof.
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    I agree with volvomax. So long as the maintenance records look good, this is a fine car. I have a 1991 940 SE turbo with over 150,000 miles on it. We have kept up on the maintenance and still love the car. We could have sold it a few times and bought new, but chose to keep it. I shudder at the thought of getting rid of it. It really is a great car.
  • gavingavin Posts: 2
    The car I am looking at is a '95 850 Turbo Wagon, not the 940 SE. Does this change your opinion? Also any thoughts on cost for replacing the turbo, my mechanic said that may be necessary soon. Thanks
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    My sister-in-law has the 850 - loves it. I'll be honest, I've never heard of the turbo having to be replaced. I would check with another mechanic and get a second opinion. Replacing the turbo is not cheap.

    We had a similar experience with Toyota Supra Turbo...mechanic said it would need to be replaced ($3000) and another mechanic said in all the years he had worked on them he had never had to replace one. We ended up with the second mechanic, did not replace the turbo and the car lasted another year before we sold it for a more family-friendly (read 2 car seats) vehicle.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    what reason did he give for replacing the turbo???

    The only issue w/ the turbo's are the oil return seals. These tend to crack as they age and oil seeps from the turbo and drips on your garage floor.
    No big deal, replace the seals.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Generally, the only reason to replace an entire turbocharger is excessive coking that borders on seizure. That is usually caused by shutting the engine off too quickly when the turbo is still hot and/or revving the engine as you turn the key to off. I had to break my dad of this habit with his turbo (88 Tbird Turbo Coupe), and he has occasionally done it with my 96 Ram (Cummins turbo diesel).

    Smart Shopper and Wagons Message Boards
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    True, although this was a major issue on turbo cars w/out water cooling for the impeller unit.
    The 850's turbo is water cooled. If the 850 in questions turbo is that far gone I'd pass on the whole car.
  • zakezake Posts: 2
    I just saw this about the 850 and realized you all are talking about my Volvo wagon. I did take it to Gavin's Mech. he said it had a bad turbo so I decided to take it to my Mech. which is Paul's Volvo of Richmond VA. and he told me the TURBO is in perfect condition. This ia after he tested it and drove the vehicle. I have all maintence record and the timing belt was changed at 80k. It has four brand new tires. This is probaly the cleanist Volvo Wagon in Virginia. Please call me if anyone would like to purchase this 1995 Volvo wagon. Joe 804-467-4192 the person who wrote (get a second opion) was absolutely correct his mech. has no clue of how to work on volvo's
  • dwinerdwiner Posts: 13
    Does anyone know what the OEM is for the standard white Volvo oil filter used up till 2000 or so? I'm guessing it is either Mann or Bosch, (maybe both). Anyone with positive experience using either Mann or Bosch instead of the Volvo brand?
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    I'm fairly certain it's a Mann filter. The '98 S/V70 used the 850 style filter; the switch to the cartridge filter came with the '99s.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    The cartridge style filters apply to the P2 cars, the S80, S60, new V70 etc.
    The S70, old V70, C70 retained the old style filters.
  • katy123katy123 Posts: 1
    I found an 850 sedan for sale. I'm unsure about the true mechanical history but my brother is a mechanic so I think I'll have him check out the engine. The car is a 94 and has 113,000 miles on it and it's an automatic. Help with any suggestions as to what we should look for when checking out the engine and such, even though my brother's a mech. I know he's never worked on a Volvo. They're asking $3,000 but the car need's front brakes badly and also new front tires.... any suggestions as to what i should do? or bid? Thanks.
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    Run. Run away.

    The owner can't produce service records, and it needs tires and brakes badly...that points to a poorly maintained car, which means I'm willing to bet that the timing belt's never been replaced. In these cars, a timing belt failure means catastrophic engine failure (the cost of which would exceed the purchase price of the car.)

    850s can be great cars...if they've been maintaned. There's certainly no shortage of 850s out there, so wait and find a good one that you won't immediately have to sink money into.

    I say look elsewhere in this case, but a properly maintaned 850 can be a great car for not a lot of money.
  • Hello all. I'm getting my license in a couple of months, and my parents have... bittersweet feelings about my new independence. Of course, my own means of transportation, but the worries that come along with it. For now, I practice on my dad's '00 Solara SLEV6. I was looking at the 850 wagon for my first car because they seem to be highly regarded as safe vehicles (something my parents are definitely looking for). Plus, alot of upperclassmen at my highschool have them, and they kinda have this retro (coolness) aura about them. I just wanted some feedback on this car. Would a used '94-'97 make a good first car for a safe driver (or I'd like to think) :p like myself? What are the pricing that should be expected? (Leaning towards $11.5k or less) PLEASE post replies! Thanks.
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    See my above post. 850s are great cars...if they've been maintained. I certainly wouldn't hesitate to buy one for my kids (driving is a LONG way off for them, though...) and $11.5k could move you well into S/V70 territory. It'll certainly be more than enough to find a fine example of an 850...keep in mind that the sedans go for a good bit less, if you want to save money (and what teenager doesn't, unless it's their parents'...)

    Good luck.
  • Love my 97 850glt wagon. While not happy about last year's "fluke" (quote from Volvo NA) cracked cylinder head at 75K miles, bit the bullet and repaired. Not so happy about today's "broken" manifold intake hose (labeled as "rare" by Volvo). Has anyone else had either of these problems? NSH
  • And now (see manifold note) am told cv boots are going/gone - and that 550 is what it takes to repair them. I never thought a Volvo would turn out to be such a money pit - it was a great first 5 years though before it became a sinkhole.
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 321
    I spray the CV boots once a year with silicone so that they stay soft and flexible. None have cracked yet, I have had to replace CV joints when they started clicking at 150,000 for passenger side and 200,000 miles for driver side.
  • I don't have brake problem,accept it makes squeaking noise when applied.My pads look good.I change new rotors and apply untisqueak.Any suggesting to make my brakes quite?
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Hose off the calipers once a week.

    Gets rid of the dust that accumulates.
  • What if i install (ceramic or kevlar) brake pads like "EBC GREENSTUFF".Are they produce less dust and could be a good replacement?
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Well, that depends.

    Cost of the pads then becomes an issue.

    Also, how well do the pads perform?

    Volvo brake rotors are thinner than most, if the brake pads don't disipate heat effectively they will warp the rotors.
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