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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

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  • eric2001eric2001 Member Posts: 482
    Anyone seen the MSRP for the Denali w/ 4ws yet?
    Very curious....
    -Eric
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I was just at the GMC dealership. They were talking MSRP around $45-$50K give or take a few thousands. Somehow, I can't picture hauling dirt or manure with it......
  • 4x4man4x4man Member Posts: 222
    The other problem is, for most of us, the knock didn't start until after a couple of thousand miles...my 8.1L started kncoking just a little after 2,000 miles. Tried Mobil 1 synthetic, but didn't quiet it down any...at least I have good oil in it now.

    I have an appt next week to have the knock addressed so I'll see what familiar line of BS the dealer will try to feed me that I have read here and on other boards.

    Bob
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.htm
  • hrbngrhrbngr Member Posts: 3
    Denali b/c I am really interested in the Quadrasteer. So here's the question. From the posts that I have read, it seems that GM might have a fix for the 6.0 sometime in the spring (re: piston slap, new pistons, etc.), so when will that fix be incorporated into the new trucks??? I could buy a used Explorer to get me thru next year and buy a Sierra Denali sometime during the summer...by then these engine problems might be fixed...but I sure wish that they would put dual-zone climate control and the upgraded stereo from the regular Denali in the truck...then it would be a done deal. Thoughts???
  • steadskysteadsky Member Posts: 11
    Are you 100% sure that your rear window is deep tinted? I can't really understand the reason behind GM doing something as they did on my truck and to others by putting a Light Tinted rear window when selecting a Deep tinted option.....Mine was delivered late April of 2001...when was your delivered.... GM claims if you select this Rear Window Defroster the deep tint on the rear window is light...I've seen many different vehicles including GM/Chevy extended cab trucks with rear window defrosters which had deep tint which wasn't aftermarket. I'm working with a GM area manager to try to reolve this now. I simply want GM to give me what I paid for, the real rear window tinted and not tinted with that film stuff, ...Dale
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    the deep tint wasn't deep at all. So I had the dealer pickup the tab to add additional tint to the rear to match the quarter windows and paid for the passenger and driver's. The tinter was hesitant to add the tint cause he said so many have had the rear windows tinted to make it darker and a lot complained that they had a hard time seeing while reversing at night. Course he charged those extra that wanted the tint removed that he had just installed.

    hrbngr

    Can't say for sure that it will be fixed for the '02 models. I was kind of confused cause you had posted that you were looking at the '01 models. If the fix for the knock on startup is introduced in the later part of 2001, I would believe that it would be incorporated into the new '02 rolling out at that time. The only way you would be able to tell would be by the VIN. That would make it difficult as I doubt that the dealers would acknowledge whether it had the old or the newly designed piston/motor. Unless of course, all the old designs were sold.

    I was at the Chevy dealer yesterday and looked over a spec sheet from GM identifying the different types of knocking, pinging, and drivetrain noises. The particular section that caught my eye was the knock on startup. GM acknowledged that it does occur and will do so until the pistons are warmed up enough to expand therefore stopping the knocking sound. The "fix" was described as a normal condition which is within tolerace and is acceptable. I asked the shop foreman, this sounds like the old piston slap on the Ford trucks, Ford it seems acknowledged the problem and corrected it in their 5.4. You think GM would do the same. I got a smile buy no answer. Kind of makes you wonder...
  • steadskysteadsky Member Posts: 11
    Anyone know a way to go beyond the darn Dealers and so called regional area managers to get technical questions answered? I am so frustrated hearing the same old answers from people that truely are not very well connected to the GM factory ....I wished that GM would have a technical hotline, "Technical Support", to help talk about configuration issues, Parts questions....obtain schematics when needed to troubleshoot things...Maybe I'm asking/expecting too much...(I'm an engineer in the Silicon Valley in California, I work with at least 50 corporations who provide world class support for the products that they sell.)
    Examples of questions I never could get answered from GM;
    1) I would like to know what was done to the newest line of 6.0 LIter engines that allowed more horsepower beyong the 300HP in my truck. "There were rumors that the 300HP stated was incorrect in the truck that I was aquiring" 2001 2500HD
    - The Caddy 345 HP 6.0
    - The Yukon 325 HP 6.0

    2) Wile shopping for my truck I asked for the functional differance between autotrac which was not an option on my 2500 HD and Insta Trac which is on my HD.
    Maybe GM can take some lessons from them.
    Signed,
    Frustrated Engineer
  • ruddsterruddster Member Posts: 19
    Dale,

    For a second opinion, I had my wife check the tint of the back window versus the rear doors on our crew cab. She said they were all the same.
    I'm not exactly sure when the truck was built, but I picked it up in early August.

    Jeff
  • donjbakerdonjbaker Member Posts: 27
    Order a 02' 2500HD LS Ext Cab SB 4X4, 6.0 back in June and I'm told (expecting) it will be built 10/1/01. The truck is going to be used for plowing/pleasure in the Chicago area.

    I would like to hear about the best way to "break" the engine in. 1st oil change? Driving Speeds? Distance of travel? Accelerating "hard" or "soft"? etc.....

    Thanks
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    truck should get a workout. Especially if the weather is like it was last december (i am in northwest indiana) had my truck in 4 hi all of last december

    Break in

    First 500 miles no cruise control, vary the rpms, no hard braking, no towing, try and stay under 55 which is basically impossible. I drove mine home down the indiana tollroad (speed limit is 65) i never seen so many fingers pointed at me in my life. I didnt go over 60. Did my first oil change at 2795. Oil looked fine. I guess its up to you if you wanna do it early or not. It surely wouldnt hurt at all

    Ryan
  • eric2001eric2001 Member Posts: 482
    that this board has been awfully quiet since the Toyota VS. forums were closed.

    Is everyone still around? Just checking in, maybe a role call?
    -Eric
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    most of us drive the truck the way we intend on using it for. what you don't want to do is to sustain one speed for any length of time if you can avoid it. staying around or below 55 is to let the whole drivetrain break-in, not just the engine as so many think. it's actually good for it to kick it up to 65-70 for a few seconds and then coast back down to a moderate (55-60) speed. i'm sure you get the picture. you want to exercise the engine.
    oil changes for me and a few others were done at 500 miles and 1500 and then every 3000. you don't have to go this route, but what can it hurt? changing at 500 gets a lot of garbage out at an early stage, and when an engine is brand new, there is a lot more blow-by (though not much compared to the old days), and this means that raw fuel sees the crankcase. the rest is up to you......kinda depends on how long you think you will keep the truck i guess.
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    is because there are so many diff. places here that GM owners post now. A lot of the same folks on all of them. Full time job just trying to keep up!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    http://www.gm-trucks.com
  • lspanglerlspangler Member Posts: 102
    Hey, I was pricing out a GMC truck on GMbuypower.com and I think I solved the tint problem.

    If you get the cold weather package which is heated mirrors and rear defrost, you lose the tint. If you get rear defrost seperately, you keep the tint, you can also get the chrome backed mirrors heated seperately. It's about the same price either way.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    Do any of you personally know anyone who uses this stuff? If this does what they say, then we could go a long way in getting rid of OPEC. Never change oil again? $120 for a gallon plus filters? Wow, this almost sounds too good to be true.


                         http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.htm

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    forum. Really didn't know what to make of it. Was thinking of giving it a try. Then forgot all about it after September 11. Guess I'll look into it further. It does sound like a deal though. Could it be too good to be true?
  • donjbakerdonjbaker Member Posts: 27
    The truck is being purchased (hopefully arriving soon) first and foremost for snowplowing, but since we do not get get much snow in Chicago, it will spend the weekends making the trips to Home Depot (Sorry Ryan, but is closer and cheaper than Menards) while the Weekdays is will be a commuter vehicle.

    I just didn't think it would be good for truck to go back and forth in a parking lot, beside without snow, people make think I nuts (no comments please).

    My feeling is oil is cheap, so I will follow your advice on the oil changes. At the very worse, I'm wasting less than $15 per oil change.

    Any other advice for breaking in a new 6.0 engine ( & drive train)
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    woohoo i am converting to home depot also. I no longer work for menards
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    you startin a whole new life son........what we been tellin ya forever now.
    good luck on this one now!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    yea its awesome to sleep in on saturday and sundays till like 10. Havent done that in years
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    If it looks to good to be true, it probably is. And looking at their site I get that distinct, creepy, plaid jacket, used car salesmen vibe.
    -- Don
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    That may be so for 2002, but my 2001 could not be ordered with just heated mirrors alone...you had to also get the rear window defroster. My rear window has the defroster and the deep tint.
  • steadskysteadsky Member Posts: 11
    erikheiker....Your truck has Deep tint with the defrost, your must be either Extended or Regualar cab, Am I right?
    Dale
  • steadskysteadsky Member Posts: 11
    Well, the GMC area manager will not budge and allow me to simply get an answer to why the rear window on my GMC 2500HD did not get tinted.

    Can't anyone help out there? Can anyone supply a Vin number I can reference or exchange Email addresses so I can talk on the phone?

    I really want to persue this with GM but really am frustrated with their lack of motivation to contact an engineer at a factory for a valid explanation.
    Dale
  • joelmcjoelmc Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 01 Silverado 4x4 from a dealer with 1500k on it. The vehicle is great from all aspects I have noticed except the rear wheels lose traction on rain soaked roads, even just wet. The tires are fair, looks like they never rotated them (Goodyear Wrangler ST). Has anyone had this problem, the truck is automatic with the 5.3. Any suggestions? Also, the truck will fistail on wet roads if I am not careful. For a extended cab short box, this seems excessive!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    1. add some weight in the back
    2. better tires
    3. Locking rear diff (does your truck have this?)
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    In addition to what Ryan suggested:

    4. Less throttle

    Seriously, better tires would help alot. My 1500 came with the Goodyears, and the best thing I did was to replace them with Firestones.

    Mike L
  • jrkracejrkrace Member Posts: 32
    I oredered a GMC HD for plowing this winter about the same time you did. I just found out that If you ordered the dual battery option(TP2) then you will pretty much never get your truck. I found this out yesterday and cancelled the option in hopes to get the truck before Oct 31. Keep in mind that GM is offering 0.0% financing up to 36 months, but it ends on that date.Good Luck.
  • donjbakerdonjbaker Member Posts: 27
    Not sure if this helps with the tint problem, but maybe it was a mistake.

    Since I wanted better visibility while plowing at night (lots of backing up), my 92 K5 was ordered without the deep tint. However, the passenger side came with dark tint, while the driver and rear was normal. A mistake the sales person told me after the transaction took place. I then made them replace the driver sider window with a deep tint and left the rear clear - the best of all worlds for my purpose.

    I would stick to my guns and demand them to replace the window to dark tint.
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    Damn, you're good! It is a regular cab. The tinted window was the only option I didn't want. But it was either buy this truck or special order and wait 3-6 months. Combined with the tinted window on the SnugTop, it's just too dark. I can barely see out the back during the day...forget about nighttime.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Get an aftermarket sliding rear window installed with the tint of your choice.

    $200-300 installed and you get the versatility of the sliding rear window.

    Mike L
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    Too late now for a slider. Unless I want to also buy one for my SnugTop. Then I also lose the rear window defroster. If I have the rear window defroster disconnected, then there is the question of the mirror heaters getting too much energy and burning up. I looked into a slider with a defroster...no such luck.
  • donjbakerdonjbaker Member Posts: 27
    Not sure if this helps, but last year a dealer informed me that an after market POWER sliding window is out there that uses the connection from the defogger. While it may be a little far to travel, the dealer used a local company. The Chevy dealer is Larry Roesch in Elmhurst, IL. The salesman told me that many of his clients wanted a slider on their LT's and he hadn't heard any complaints.

    Good Luck
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    it is rather doubtful that this would be an issue.
  • eric2001eric2001 Member Posts: 482
    They are using the connections of the rear window defroster to power the slider? How do you open & close it, the defrost button? Seems interesting... Let me know more details, please. Thanks.
    -Eric
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I guess if you connect a cigarette lighter between the two leads, it could generate enough heat to ignite being that its winter air and all.
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    things have sure changed here oby.....
  • donjbakerdonjbaker Member Posts: 27
    Not sure how the slider works. My guess is that they use the power from the Defogger and replace the switch, but I'm not sure - the salesman informed me of this possibility.
  • bigskyguybigskyguy Member Posts: 2
    Have 2000 4wd with the 5.3L, 40000 miles and I am not even getting 12mpg in the city. I just recently replaced the fuel filter and was going to replace the O2 sensor but NAPA does not stock them yet. I have a friend who never seems to get under 15mpg. This is just one more problem in a long line of problems I have had with this truck. Any suggestions
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    around city i get 12-13 mpg with my 5.3 Z71 (20K miles)

    it probably has something to do with the way you drive
  • evergreenevergreen Member Posts: 213
    I have a 2000 ZR71 and I have noticed an occasional clanking sound from the area of the passenger side rear wheel when I hit a sharp bump. The dealer can't find anything loose and there aren't any bumps where the dealer is located so I can't take the mechanic on a test drive to show him the problem. I have checked myself and can't find anything loose so I am wondering if it could be something out of sight in the brake assembly. The brakes work fine, though, so that seems a little unlikely. Anyone else ever had this type of problem?
  • lspanglerlspangler Member Posts: 102
    Hey there, I am in the market for a new truck and I am interested in an ex. cab 4x4 with the 4.8 engine. It's amazing how few there are built. The extra power would be nice, but for the little bit of towing I do, I'll take the extra gas mileage. Does anybody here have the 4.8?
  • ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    Just curious, would the 17" factory alum. wheels from an Avalanche fit on a Silverado-should be the same backspacing. Thought this may be an alternative to costly aftermarket wheels. Anyone know for sure?
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    I have a 99 1500 4.8L 4x4 and an '00 2500 6.0L 4x4. The 4.8L engine is plenty of engine for the truck. It is as fast as the 2500, as long as they are empty. Loaded, the torque of the 6.0L engine will win every time.

    Unless you are going to be towing a trailer 5000+ lbs. you will be happy with the 4.8L

    Mike L
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    I don't think anyone mentioned that if you put it in 2nd (automatic) it takes off in 2nd so it doesn't spin quite so easily. Many automatics are this way.
  • lentzedlentzed Member Posts: 2
    My 2001 Sierra showed me the check oil light at 3200 miles. It now uses a quart every 1000 miles and smokes upon initial start in the morning. I notice the most smoke when I drive for several hours on the interstate then park it over night. I have never towed anything or hauled anything. I have been to the dealer twice and they are essentially calling me a liar. They want me to come in every thousand miles so they can check the oil. The first time it was 1/2 quart low; they added a quart, making it overfull, so when I return it shows full. Make the dealer check the oil under your watchful eye. The truck has only 6600 miles and has burned over 2 quarts. I have never seen a new car use any oil, yet the dealer and the 800 number in detroit tells me they expect 1 quart burnt every 2000 miles. I even told them to replace the valve seals, and if it still burns oil I'll pay for the seals and labor, but they won't agree to this; probably because they know what a piece of junk it is and nothing will fix it. Anyone with similar problems should email me as a class action suit is in the works. Send email to lentzed@cs.com.
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    Evergreen -- My bet would be either a loose shock mount, bad shock, or something screwed up/loose in the exhaust system hangers.
    Ricsch -- Same front end, same truck, wheel/tire size is +1 from stock Subs; they've gotta fit on the truck.
    Lentzed -- First service light for oil coming on early seems to be a common thread. I really hate to say this, but 1 qt per 3000+ miles is within "normal" range. I agree with you that if it were my truck, or car, it would hurt my head. I'm used to no oil burning between changes, 5K miles for me, but it meets "industry standard". One of the reasons I got rid of my '93 Jeep GC with the 318 was that it was eating oil at 1 qt per 2K miles and that was with 87,500 miles. I feel for you, buddy, but GM ain't gonna help you out. Luck of the draw.
    -- Don
  • hillhoundhillhound Member Posts: 537
    Oh, dang...nevermind!!
This discussion has been closed.

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