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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions



  • rrtaz1rrtaz1 Posts: 1
    I have 1999 S-10 with 70,000 miles. So far everything is working ok for now. The only thing that I have problems with is a graining sounds when I hit the brakes. Its not the brakes but I think its the wheel bearing. Other than that all is well. I changed my oil every month and half no matter how many miles I put on it. I never hit over 3000 miles before oil change. I average about 2500 miles.
  • Purchased an 89 S10 Long bed with a 4.3L V6 that had 29k on it when I bought. 5 years later it now has 56K on the odometer. The truck spent its early years near the ocean in Rhode Island so it has some rust on it but is in good shape overall. I think that the Heater Core needs to be replaced since the windows started to fog up or better yet they misted up. The question that I have: Is the Heater core a DIY replacement for someone who is a maple shade mechanic or should I leave it to a regular mechanic? The truck also has AC which is not working right now. The other thing is I would have to wait till it warms up around here. Can someone give me a hint as to how hard it would be to attempt it myself. Is it done from the engine compartment or do I have to take the Dash apart? The Chilton manual that I have doesn't even mention the Heater core. Thanks for any clues
  • markw8markw8 Posts: 25
    Chevy heater cores especially with air are a bear.My son's 96 the flat rate was over 6 hours,and it comes out from inside. mark
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    All you need to know here, you can do this yourself but you'll need some patience. ater_core.php&dir=climate_controls
  • markw8markw8 Posts: 25
    It sounds like the older ones are easier. Mark.
  • I have a 2002 S10 2.2L and I cant figure out why my highest setting (#4)went out on me all of a sudden. I've changed the fan switch and the relay on the firewall. I put a multi-tester up to the fan and I lose power at the #4 setting. 1 thru 3 work fine? I also checked fuses! At a lost! I only have 48K on it. Is it still under warranty?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    I'm looking at the wiring circuit schematic for it. Got an email address?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Check your email.
  • I have a 2000 S10 4.3V6, once in a while it wont start. By this I mean it'll turn over sometimes then stall or I will turn the key and get no reply but the dash lights coming on. What I do is turn the key while pushing the gas then sit there with my foot on the gas for a little bit and then start going, but sometimes after Ive done this while im driving my dash lights will flash up and the truck tries to stall. I have my guesses but could use help.
  • Alcan, Thanks for the for the email. After looking over diagram and checking all the resistances I noticed there was a 30a fuse in the circuit. I went to owners manual and found it under my hood. And guess what? It was blown! Everything working great now! Thanks for your help! Dan
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You're welcome. Glad to hear you sorted it out.
  • If any one can help me. I just put a new transmission in my S-10 it is automatic 4x4 and 2.8 I tis going from first to second to third to fast and someone said it may be my modulator valve. I don't know what that is or where that is. My husband dosn't know much about transmissions either. if any one could describe where and what i do i waould appreciate it. thank you Martha
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    What year is it, overdrive or 3 speed?
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    Probably not a modulator valve on this trans. Should have a "TV" cable under the hood near the throttle cable on the throttle body. May have been unhooked or not adjusted correctly. Has to be adjusted right or bad for transmission. Best to take back to mechanic and have it looked at.
  • I'm sorry the year of my S-10 is an 83 it is a very sharp truck still in great shape and i would love to have it back on the road. It does have overdrive. And a machanic didn't put it in we did and we bought it at a transmission shop with a short warranty. there is only one way to put one in right? or did we screw something up?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    It's an early 700R-4 transmission and doesn't have a modulator. As was mentioned, it has a throttle valve cable or TV cable. If the TV cable is broken, sticking, misadjusted, or if an incorrect part is installed for the model, the vehicle may exhibit various malfunctions such as no upshift delay or full throttle shifts. TV cable adjustment is also critical for transmission oil pressure control. If disconnected or misadjusted, it can cause transmission failure due to clutch or band slippage.

    Here's the adjustment procedure if you want to take a kick at it yourself. Takes about 10 seconds after you've done it once:

    Preliminary Checks

    Inspect and/or correct the transmission fluid level.
    Make sure that the cable is connected at both ends.
    Make sure that the correct cable is installed.

    If necessary for access, remove the air cleaner assembly.
    If the cable has been removed and installed, pull on the upper end of the cable. It should travel a short distance with light resistance caused by the small return spring on the TV lever. When released, check to see that the cable slider returns to the zero or the fully adjusted position; if not, adjust the cable and slider:

    Depress and hold the metal readjust tab on the end of the TV cable. It might require application of penetrating oil to free it up, but should depress under thumb pressure.
    Move the slider back on the cable (away from the throttle lever) until it stops against the fitting.
    Release the readjust tab.
    Slowly rotate the throttle lever by hand (DO NOT use the accelerator pedal) to the full throttle stop (wide open throttle) position. The slider must move (ratchet) toward the lever in order to adjust the cable when the lever is rotated.
    Release the throttle lever and check for proper operation.

    The throttle valve cable adjustment should be rechecked with the engine at normal operating temperature. A cable may appear to function properly while the engine is cold, but not work properly when warmed.
  • cfcuecfcue Posts: 2
    I own a 2000 extended cab 4WD ZR2 truck - 65k. I see from this board that handles breaking are a common problem. Both of mine broke off within 3 weeks of each other. The parts are $80 per side and the dealer wants $150 per side to put them on. For the whopping total of $400(including tax). Seems excessive for friggin' handles, eh?

    Can this be done by an average joe?? The dealer says "no". I'd be interested to hear how other have dealt with this issue.

    The dealer says this item has a "high failure rate" but I can't get them to come down on the price of fixing it.

    Also, I've had the ball joint problem, oil leak from the hose that runs from the oil filter, loose exhaust heat sheild, and my 3rd door handle has broken off 3 times (luckily I can replace that myself). Everyone told me I should've bought a toyota - but I REALLY liked the idea of buying american and the looks of the s-10.
  • zr2randozr2rando Posts: 391
    I had My truck getting aligned at Merchants and that seat tilt handle broke, somebody there used it and wasn't carefull I guess.
    They paid for it and had a guy put the new one on for me.
    He said it took a few minutes but nothing too bad.
    Spoke to the manager about 2-3 months later and he admitted that they broke one on his truck too.
    Seems to be weak design, just be carefull with them...
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Document ID# 615860
    2000 Chevrolet/Geo S10 Pickup - 4WD

    Seat Back Recliner Handle Replacement

    Removal Procedure

    Remove the retainer clip using a flat-bladed tool.
    Remove the recliner handle from the seat bottom.

    Installation Procedure

    Install the recliner handle to the seat bottom.
    Install the retainer clip in order to secure the handle.
  • cfcuecfcue Posts: 2
    My electrical engineer boyfried came up with a great solution. The post of the reclining mechanism has a slot that the handle fits into. There is still 1/2inch of the post sticking out. He took a drimmel (?) tool and increased the depth of the slot, shaving a bit around the edges and put the handles back on. He thinks it will be a bit better this time as the lever's distance from the reclining mechansim is not as long and won't cause as much stress on the weak metal they use in those mechanisms.

    Man! I'm going to be so HAPPY returning the unopened boxes w/the reclining mechanisms to the dealer and getting a $160 refund!!
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    For your sake, I hope you're not disappointed when you try to return those parts.

  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 613
    Most of these people with broken 'seat handles' have broken recliners. When the handle comes off, the piece that actually breaks is a protrusion on the reclining actuator, inside the seat. The recliner gets replaced, the original handle is usually ok and gets reinstalled. GM warranty pays dealers over 1 hour to replace one, so the average mechanic probably charges at least that, or more.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Thanks for the heads-up. I was going on what they'd posted. I should go back on the bench if warranty's paying 1 hour for this:

    Document ID# 553463
    2000 Chevrolet/Geo S10 Pickup - 2WD

    Seat Back Recliner Replacement - Front

    Removal Procedure

    Remove the recliner handle.
    Remove the recliner cover.
    Remove the inertia latch from the recliner assembly.
    Remove the recliner assembly bolts.
    Remove the recliner assembly from the seat.

    Installation Procedure

    Install the recliner assembly to the seat.
    Install the recliner assembly to the seat frame bolts.
    Tighten the recliner assembly to the seat frame bolts to 24 N·m (18 lb ft).
    Install the inertia latch.
    Install the recliner trim cover to the seat.
    Install the recliner handle.
  • I've been hearing reports of S-10s with the 4.3 engine having problems with the EGR valve. Does anybody know what the symptoms are?

    My 1997 S-10 makes a "rattling" or "pinging" noise briefly at mild acceleration. I'm wondering if it's the EGR valve gone bad, or a PCM problem not controlling the valve correctly. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Takes about 5 minutes to check, but requires the use of a Tech II scan tool. Common problems are the valve pintle hanging due to carbon buildup, and plugged recirculation passages causing low exhaust gas flow. Here are the symptoms:

    Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Diagnosis


    Results Of Incorrect Operation

    With too much EGR flow at idle, cruise, or cold operation, any of the following conditions may occur:

    The engine stalls after a cold start.
    The engine stalls at idle after deceleration.
    The vehicle surges during cruise.
    The vehicle idles roughly.
    If the EGR valve stays open all of the time, the engine may not idle. A DTC P0401 may set. Refer to DTC P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Flow Insufficient .

    Too little or no EGR flow allows the combustion temperatures to get too high during acceleration and load conditions. This could cause the following conditions:

    Spark knock (detonation)
    Engine overheating
    DTC P0401
    System Check
    The Linear EGR System Check covers the diagnosis of the EGR system. Refer to Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Diagnosis .
  • ...thanks for the info. Like most "home mechanics", I don't have my own TechII tool, however I know someone with the Snap-On equivalent.

    I've already checked the pintle valve and EGR passages and they're OK. The drivability is good, so I'm assuming it's something a little deeper. I'll have to contact my "Snap-On friend".
  • dwagsdwags Posts: 2
    The only problem I have with my '03 crew cab is the gas mileage :( It has 10K on it and I am lucky to get 16 on the highway. Is this typical? Love to drive it but my not be able to afford to keep it!!!!
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    Wow that's low for 16 mpg. Are you sure that your figuring it correctly? I was considering on buying one, but not too sure now.
  • razielraziel Posts: 2
    I own a 2002 S-10 ZR2 that I bought new. I have 21m miles on it and I have changed the oil and filters @ 500 1500 3000 5000 and every 3000 miles after that. At around 15,000 miles I noticed that I had lost about 1 quart and a half of oil. I thought it was the garage I brought it too. Anyway after the next oil change I was again about 2 quarts low. I brought it to the dealer, and they changed the PCV valve and told me to come back in 1500 miles. I am still losing oil. I went back to the dealer and they told me to come back in another 1500 miles. When I take the truck on the highway, It is very under powered I have to put the pedal practically to the floor to maintain speed (65) going up hill. Its almost time to go back to the dealer (AGAIN). Does anyone else have this problem or have any ideas of what this may be??
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