Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions



  • pbernardpbernard Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 1991 GMC Sonoma, 4x4 with the 4.3L engine. When I bought the truck new, it did not have air-conditioning. The dealer had a after-market air-conditioner installed. I now need to replace the heater core, and do not know if I need the one that is for air-conditioned models or non air, as it was when I bought it. My question is: If a after-market air-conditioner was installed, was the original heater core replaced with one for air-conditioning? Thankyou in advance.
  • Got as real strange problem. Driving down the road and the tack reads 2.5 to 3.0 then all the sudden the truck stars bucking and stalling and the tach is jumping all over the place. then it suddenly drops to zero and the truck runs fine. occasionally it will jump back up to about 1.5 sputter then back to zero.I replaced the camshaft positioning censor and it ran fine for about 3 days. Now its back to its old tricks again and getting worse. Talked to alot of people and they have no clue PLEASE HELP!!! ITS A 99 V6 4X4 engine class W with OFF ROAD PACKAGE. And if this helps i do regularly scheduled maintenance, i replaced all the fuel injectors about a year ago and im on my 3rd transmition
  • coopmancoopman Posts: 1
    I'm seeing a lot of scarring on the rear plastic (?) fender flares on my 2003 ZR2. It is obvious that the ZR2 tires extend out beyond the fenders, and they do throw a lot a road debris from the front tires to the rear fender flares. Is this just a poor engineering job by Chevy ? Is it possible that Chevy will replace the rear flares since it is still under warranty ? I added mud flaps early on to help cut down on the damage. The mud flaps help a little, but they don't eliminate the problem. Has anyone else seen this ? Also, any suggestions on what tires to buy once the originals are worn out ?
  • bbarlowbbarlow Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem w/95 s10.No water thru windshield,but lots of water thru doors when it rains or even when I run the wipers. Air bag light just started coming on intermittently. I am afraid the airbag may deploy just for the heck of it, or NOT deploy if I'm in a wreck. My mechanic said that the little seal that runs around the door had a hole in it,and to fill the hole in w/ silicone, and that should stop the leak. I'm pretty sure the sensor fix is expensive.
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,206
    Thanks for the additional info on the drain. I knew there was a recess in there but wasn't for sure if it was hex or square. And the service manual wasn't helpful at all, just the standard "remove the petcock" statement. Will be picking up new hoses as well. Is there a gasket that goes between the housing and the intake or does the gasket around the thermostat do the sealing?

    Will have to check to see if I have a 3/8" allen, if not, a good excuse to get some more tools.
  • dgh50dgh50 Posts: 3
    Glad to help. There is not a gasket between the housing and the intake. The gasket or "seal" that goes around the thermostat is all there is. Just take note of the position of the old seal before you remove it, because one side is slightly different than the other.
  • dtl379dtl379 Posts: 3
    Have you checked to see that your fuel to air mix is right? You may be running lean, or it may not hurt to check your ignition system. Good luck!!
  • dtl379dtl379 Posts: 3
    I have a 97 GMC Sonoma with the 4.3 X throttle body injection. About 1 - 1.5 years ago it started misfiring.Ihave replaced the plugs wires, cap and rotor about 5 times. We also replaced the ignition ciol, fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve, and cam position sensor. On top of that, we have run injector cleaner, repositioned the distributer, timed the motor, and have run throttle body cleaner. You can smell carbon sometimes, but I've been told it most likely not the injectors. we are still recieving random misfire codes on all cilinders. In October of last year, the service engine code came on for "hard misfire" and "cam position sensor circut malfunction". But here is where it gets fun. Before we fixed the engine, it stopped missing. It ran rich, but never missed a beat. Anyone have any idea at all? My mechanic is stumped, and the truck has been the talk of the shop. Please help!! It only misses at steady driving speeds above 35 MPH.
  • I have just spent a year on rebuilding this 2.5 in my S10. We have everything hooked up, and ready to start it. The problem is, it won't start. I'm getting spark and fuel, but the truck isn't even trying to fire up. Please Help.
  • I have a '94 S10. Whenever I start my truck it starts okay. Once i rev the engine it begins to sputter and backfires some and then finally dies. It also has a smell of gas after reving. Im not sure what the problem is. I've already changed the fuel filter but that didn't help. Please help.
    Thank you
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Check ignition timing.
  • ok i'm pretty sure my ignition switch is shot i've always been able to pull my keys out whenever i wanted whether the car is started or not and just lately its been getting stuck in the on position then finally it got stuck in there for good but thats not my problem i just want to know how i take apart the steering column and get the old ignition switch out and new one in please on my 89 4.3liter s10
  • i would say fuel injector very badly clogged i'd get some fuel injector cleaner and fill up with a new tank of gas and if that doesn't work have a diagnostic run on it but it sounds like fuel injectors.
  • 97s10ss97s10ss Posts: 2
    hey i had a problem sim to yours it was my brake booster driver side firewall black and round was bad
  • 97s10ss97s10ss Posts: 2
    has any one had a problem with their fuel gauge staying stuck on full :confuse:
  • 00xtreme00xtreme Posts: 3
    I have taken my 2000 xtreme to two different dealers, a transmission place, two different muffler shops and another mechanic and no one has been able to find the noise. Whenever I take off I hear a loud squeak from the rear, then while driving down the street (either 5 to 80 mph) I hear a loud squeaking/rattlling noise coming from the rear passenger side. I've taken my toneau cover off, the tailgate, my spare tire, fixed the sway bar mounts and lubed everything and anything but still the problem exists. The weird thing is, when it rains the noise gets a little louder. It is such an annoying noise that I dont even want to drive it anymore. Please help!!!!!!
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Check the shocks, they can make a lot of noise if loose.
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,206
    Thanks. I read about the position as well. I figured it was either different side-side, or front-back or had to be aligned with something.
  • I had the same problem, first sounding like it was coming from the D/S front. Then a corus of thunks coming from the P/S chimed in one day. All this from a 2003 Extended Cab with only 23,000 miles on it. After weeks of hunting and three trips to the dealer (It is still under warantee!) I finally decided to do it my self. It took another three months. I opened the doors and used a can of Spray Silicone Grease (Safe on the paint!) and sprayed the Hinges on all three doors, worked them back and forth several times, and sprayed again. NICE AND QUITE!
  • We have the it at top dead center and the rotor is pointing to the number one spark plug wire and there is still nothing. No matter where i postion the distributor, it still won't start.
  • Our 1999 Sonoma has some mysterious problems. :confuse:

    In the winter the floor and area between the door and the seat are very cold and we can feel air moving. It is worst on the Drivers side and when the heat is on! The dealer has been unable to find the problem. They checked the weather striping and have adjusted the door. We feel it might be coming from the front and not the doors but can't be sure.

    There is also an annoying squeaking noise coming either from the rear side windows or seatbelt pillars, most loud on the Drivers side. Dealer has been unable to find the problem. They tried lubricating the weather striping around the windows with no luck.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Cam timing, is #1 on compression. :)
  • 00xtreme00xtreme Posts: 3
    Shocks have already been replaced and the noise is still there. That was something that I have taken care of that I did forget to mention. Anything else that you could think of? please help!!
  • dgh50dgh50 Posts: 3
    Actually the top side of the seal ,when installed on the thermostat, has a slight bevel on its inner radius or edge, whereas the bottom side of the seal is straight all the way across from outer edge to inner edge.
  • richp2richp2 Posts: 1
    I also have a tailgate cable on my '00 Sonoma which broke. I bought a new end latch, but also cannot pull the old latch out of the tailgate because of the tension.

    Have you figured out how to remove the old latch? If so, could you please share with me. The initial response to your question #464 has me unsure of how to replace the latch.

    Thank you very much.
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165

    As for the Air leaking - take a 1" or 2" wide strip of paper and competely close the door on it. From the inside pull the paper - it should drag quite a bit - or not be able to be pulled out/through at all. Repeat for the entire door area/edges. This takes som time - but it should show where the seal is not touching ... Also, especially check the third door !! I had to elongate my bottom striker attachment holes to get my 3rd door to close all the way at the bottom (door was rattling and had traffic /wind noise behind the driver....).

    My first 2001 (that the dealer had to buy back from me - long story, another time ...) had "Clicking" in the rear back area. Turned out to be a suspected spot welds bad and rubbing together. What they did to prove this was remove the rear trim below the side and back windows (ext. cab) - Remove these and get somone in the vehicle with you behind the seats and have him listen and locate the rattle (be sure it's not just the jump seat / jump seat seat belt making the noise!!) Also, as it's in both sides I assume you checked to be sure it's not the seat s? Look at the seat sliding function (You can loosen the seat to floor bolts than push in or pull the seat bottom frame and re-tighten ..)

    Hope this helps !!!
  • redtruckredtruck Posts: 2
    Have some play and a progressively worsening squeak on take-off with my 2wd S-10 auto. trans. 4.3L driveshaft. Have heard there is suppose to be some sort of repair sleave kit that can be used to help with repair of this problem. U-joints are okay. Is anyone familiar with this repair ?
  • geo13geo13 Posts: 1
    My son was just getting on the highway on his way home and told me the truck just lost power and died & made a scraping noise. Would not start afterward. Was towed to my sister's house (100 miles from me) and I learned it started but no power and was told it almost sounded like it had no oil. Everything was checked, had oil, alternator OK, I am to understand it has a crank pulley sensor but, the noise sounded internal so I was told. Engine has @116,000+. I suspect possible timing gear problem, has anyone experienced this type of problem?
  • just picked up a used 2002 crew cab with the 4.3v6. 57000kms

    have two problems

    there is a vacuum leak?/hissing sound only when engine is running from behind the vent/heat/fan controls-anyone got a fix?
    second problem.....there is a very slight "grinding" from behind the dash. almost sounds like a cable (for tach/spedo etc) is sticky. the sound comes and goes, mostly goes when driving but when at low RPM sitting in drive way it is easy to hear....anyone else with this problem?

    those are the only ones problems I have noticed so far, love the truck hope it was a good buy!
  • lingrenlingren Posts: 3
    This was my dads truck and sat for 3 to 4 years 1/4 tank of gas. I filled up the truck with super 92 oct. and a can of heet for fuel. it sputtered for a day than ran pretty good for a day. Now it dont want to run at all. Did tune up and fuel filter no help. plugged it in and the only trouble code was the 02 sensor "lean". Replaced the 02 sensor did not help. I can get it to start if i pour gas down it now but 2 or 3 seconds later it sputters and wants to die the exhaust smells rich. the vacum lines look good. please help!!!!
This discussion has been closed.