Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

alcan

Use an inspection mirror and verify it's not coming from the water pump weep hole.

slide

A new PCM fixed the problem. This thing controls everything. Thanks for all the non-response!

oakmanss

I have a 1995 extended cab which I think has the same transmission. I can't repair the trashed transmission I have. I have not found another transmission yet. What other transmission could I adapt? Why is THIS 1995 so different.

alcan

I found 7 pages of them listed here. Fill in your zip code and indicate model/engine:

http://car-part.com/

fankhauser

I really can't figure out where it's leaking from. I drove over 300 miles today and no leak, just after it gets down to the temp outside. Waterpump does "squeak" for about a minute when started. Temp has been 17 or so. I think I will just take it to someone who has the time and have them see where it's coming from. *sigh* Thanks for the advice

MAF

wardoe

I have a 96 gmc sonoma auto 2.2 RWD, it only has 75.000 on the clock. It seems to drive ok (apart from the rattle that gets quieter as it warms up, but never goes away compleatly). When I put it into park and rev the engine it does a strange thing, it cuts out at high revs, then when the revs drop it starts again, then when the revs go up again it cuts. all this happens in about 1/2 second bursts until I take my foot off the gas.

Can anybody please help me, I just bought this truck a few weeks back and need it for my job.

tgeorge2

My new mechanic is trying to tell me that when the fuel pump on my 1993 (200K miles) failed something with the ignition module also goes out....(I can't remember the exact name of the part) Does this make sense? Is he trying to stick it to me? He has estimated the cost to be over $500. What do you think? He already has everything torn apart and is beginning to reassemble...Am I being "hosed"???

tgeorge2

Along with the first message (directly above) I have just spoken with my mechanic who said he had to take the bed off the truck to get to the fuel pump....Is that how it is done? I now have a new fuel pump and electronic something/something which give the engine spark but the injectors are not pumping...he has fuel pressure and spark, what is going on????? HELP!!!! QUICK!!!!

wardoe

Not tried it in reverse, just in park, it almose sounds like it runs out of fuel or floods. The truck also seems to not have much power and the tick over is a bit lumpy (vibrates a lot) and it is a bit of a gas guzzler, one tank of gas only takes me just over 100 miles (20 something gallon gas tank)...Could it be a stuck choke, if so where the bloody hell is the choke? (not used to auto trucks with injectors, being a British chap)

alcan

Fuel injected engines don't have a choke. Cold starts require a richer air/fuel mixture. Carburated engines did this by maintaining the same fuel flow rate but decreasing airflow rate (the choke). Fuel injected engines do it by maintaining the same airflow rate but increasing the fuel injector pulse width to deliver more fuel. Same result, a richer mixture for cold startup. Re revving the engine in Park or Neutral, engineers have made vehicles owner-resistant by incorporating a rev limiter to prevent excessive and unnecessary r.p.m. in Park or Neutral, as previously mentioned.

dmblair78

I'm not a mechanic by any means but I do like to tinker with things. I changed my fuel pump on my '99 and didn't have to take the bed off. There are a couple of straps and a cover over the gas tank that have to be removed along with the tank. Unless the straps are stuck in the channel of the body then maybe that is why he is saying the bed has to come off. As far as something else going out along with the fuel pump, I've never heard or seen anything like that. Maybe someone else in this forum can shed some light on that problem.

rcm710

I have a similar problem. I recently purchased a 2002 S-10 P/U with the 4.3 Vortec. This truck was originally purchased to be part of a fleet of trucks for Enterprise rent a car. It seems to have a speed limiter enabled, from the PCM, that shuts down the fuel injectors at 80mph. I hope that the dealer will be able to re-flash the PCM, and set to "off" this and the auto headlamp and door lock feature. The way I look at it is if I want the doors to lock, i'll lock'em. Good Luck, -Bob

donnydodad

cranks over and over and if you don"t touch the gas peddle it will start after 30 turn overs or constently holding key to start position,,change fuel filter, fuel pump, been on lindsay chevrolet electronic scope twice, and no results, also change rotor , wire plugs cap, new gas battery coil, feul pump reset fuse/switch, etc, it was bought from up in the high country, mountain i guess!! Said to have been set up for high altatude, how do i correct this setting., it"s thoutle body injected and is spraying fuel the whole time you"re turning it over to start,,,does"nt make sence to me please help, thank you donnydodad@msn.com springfeild MO

ken38

Its is a Chevy S10 --2001.
All fuses are good---under the hood fuse panel and the side fuse panel left of steering.

However, to redefine the problem:

"Check gauges" light comes on just after car warms up. Reading goes up to max 310 degrees then down again to normal and the "check gauges" light would come on.

When I turn on the heater controls for heat the AC still blows cold, then suddenly and hesitatingly, after a while, it start blowing heat as it should. It is erratic.

What could it be?

Thanks

Ken38
===

jae5

As stated by dmblair, you don't have to take the bed off, but is one of the ways to access the pump, allowing the tank to stay in place.

Anyway, you didn't state the pressure. Can check rather easily, connect to the schraider valve on the fuel line, if equipped and turn the ignition key. Should get pressure by turning the key, pump should kick on and pressurize the system. Another way to see if the pump is pumping and gauge the flow somewhat is disconnect the line before the filter (on the frame rail, driver side). Turn the ignition on, have a catch can under the line, and see what the flow looks like.

Also, can he (or you) hear the pump kick on?. He did check the filter to make sure it wasn't clogged or put on backwards? Better yet, he put on a new correct filter correct?

canufixit

I didn't check back for all the previous posts - so pardon me if this was covered - but this sounds like a sticky thermostat - has this been changed ?? There are classic symptom .. Hot, then cold, etc. And you verified the gauge appers to be working as you get hot then cold from the heater ....

gonogo

Have you checked the coolant, is it brown with sludge. 4.3 had a serious problem with Dexcool going bad. Remove the radiator cap and check for rust.

moronicus

I have a 2001 Chevy S-10 3 door pick-up truck with a 2.2L 4cly with P/S, P/B, A/C and a 5 speed manual trans. with 143000mi on it. The other day on my way home from work I picked up my truck from the park and ride lot. Vehicle started normally but when I drove up the freeway on ramp I noticed a shortage of power. The engine made a real funny noise, kind of hard to describe. Sounded kind of like when the secondaries open up on a carbureted car. But I wasn't going anywhere. Didn't overheat, didn't die when you let it go back to idle. Idled fine. But when you push on the gas and get it up to 2000rpm the rpm starts to fluctuate. Down to 1000rpm, back up to 2000rpm and so on. It makes that noise (secondaries opening on a carb car) the whole time. It will never go past 2000rpm. I changed the plugs, wires, air filter, and fuel filter. No effect. I never had any troulbe with this truck in the past! Any ideas as what could be wrong? I can't afford to take it to a mechanic right now, especially with the holidays approaching. I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!

canufixit

One thought ... when was the last time previous to that day that went to the gas station (dis you use your your usual gas station)?? Is it possible you got a bad batch of Gas ?? There is a gas station near me that is notious for bad gas/ water in the fuel. All the locals stay away - but out of area cars get hit (as it as it's near the interstate). A Repair shop down the street makes a good living as it's only a mile or so down the road - just drops gas tanks and/or and changs the fuel ..

tgeorge2

THANK YOU for all of the responses! As I said, after installing a new fuel pump, screen and ignition module we had spark and fuel flow but the engine would not start. My mechanic called one of his "buddies" who suggested checking the fuse that controls the injectors..guess what...it had blown; as designed when the fuel pump goes out! With the fuse replaced the engine started! Keep the above in mind if the same thing happens to you! (The ignition module replaced was the original when the truck rolled off the line...it had over 200K miles and 12 years of wear...not too bad!!!)

zig26

I have had a 1989 S10 2.5L for many years, now with 218K. Does the engine run normally once it finally starts or does it run rough and require extra throttle once started to keep it going? If the latter, try checking the EGR valve. It can stick open causing too much EGR making for hard starts, poor idle, or loss of power (depending on how far it is open). It can stick open intermittently, especially when hot. A scope will not show this failure (mine did not). You can also try stoking the EGR diaphragm manually by reaching under the metal shield to make sure it is not stuck. It should be closed for starting. It sounds like you have covered the basics for spark and fuel, but they could still be wrong. Have you checked for spark at the plugs yet? Does the engine seem to be too rich? Hope this helps a little.

deangdangler

1995 Gmc Sonoma auto tranny, rebuilt and installed by shop, no problems for 12,000 miles, now it will only transmit power if the engine has just been started after sitting for a day, and then only for about 2 seconds-after this it will not shift into gear at all. Makes a noise for a few seconds when first starting engine. Engine warms up but tranny fluid stays cold. Transmission was bench tested before installation. Rest of truck drivetrain has been well maintained. Any suggestions?

cooke

my 2000 s-10 2.2 blew no. 3 rod came apart so oil pan and block are scrap i am installing a 3.8 from 96 camaro any one know where i can get oil pan and motor mounts so i dont have to make them ????????

gonogo

I have 2, drop the pan and check for debris, or first if you have a gauge up to 300 psi check main pressure. I always do the pan drop first, that usually tells the story.

pattyjw59

I am considering buying a 2000 S-10, allegedly with less than 40,000 miles (I am going to look at it tomorrow but will not be making a decision yet) for $8000. I would like to know what kind of problems to expect, if any. For example, I bought a used Taurus and found out later they were notorious for bad trannys. Sure enough, my tranny later went out. So I'd like feedback from S-10 owners, especially 2000 S-10 owners, as to what to expect. Thanks! :confuse:

airmanacepilot

I've got a 1997 Chevrolet S10 4x4. I've recently figured out that the Transfer Case Control Module is jacked up. I simply fix it each time by putting the ignition to on then disconnect and reconnect the harness to the TCCM. I hope I can figure out why there is this flaw with the TCCMs. In my opinion GMC should fix it considering they've put this TCCM into so many models.

airmanacepilot

I have a 1997 chevrolet S10 extended cab with 4x4. Overall it is a good vehicle. I've had to replace an ABS sensor and a wiper board. Also the Transfer Case Control Module seems to have a problem which stops the 4x4 from working. I simply get it working again by turning the ignition switch on, disconnect then reconnect the harness from the TCCM and then it works again. I don't know where the flaw is coming from. Wish I knew. Something to think about though.

ginasmuffins

I live in MN where it's unbearably cold, all the time. I have an S-10, 1998 4cyl..basically as stock as they come. (Automatic)

Last Tuesday morning it wouldn't start and I've had 3 diff. people try to help me start it. (Keeping in mind I'm a 21 yr. old female [poor] college student who doesn't know the first thing about vehicles)

So here's what I know.. it turns over just fine, but it doesn't fire. (Whatever that means) I've also put ISOheet into the gas tank. BUT, I asked a mechanic (he didn't look at it, I just told him about it) and he said it's most likely the fuel pump that's wrong. He said it would be about $600 to replace it.

As for my questions.
1. Does $600 sound right for a fuel pump? Also, where is it located, is it in the gas tank or the engine?
2. What else could it be? Cheaper, that could be checked out first?

If I think of anything else I'll re-post. This whole situation has gotten me so frusterated because I can't even get to work. I'd appreciate any help anyone can offer.

ginasmuffins

I own a 98 and about 2 years ago I needed the tranny rebuilt. When I was in getting it fixed, the mechanics told me that that is a fairly common problem with Chevy S-10's and Blazers. Other than that, nothing too major. My wiper motor went out and I was without windshield wipers for awhile, that was interesting!

98flash

Yeah it could be a fuel pump but $600 buck sound like twice as much as it should be. Call a auto parts store and git a price on a new fuel pump, guessing it would be about $200 and it should take no more than 2 hours labor at $60 that makes it about $350. I know an honest shop, if you can believe that, and your in southern MN

98flash

I have a 98 S10 and the heater contol is not working. Heat comes out only in the defrost position and thats it. Any help out there?

gonogo

Check for vacuum leaks, when no vacuum it defaults to defrost.

gonogo

When you turn the key to run, do you hear the fuel pump for 2 seconds?

jae5

Another suggestion is that the engine could be flooded and you need to clear it. Try this:

1. With the key turned to the "run/on" position (position right before you turn it to "crank", press the gas pedal to the floor then crank the engine for a few seconds (about 5 to 10). This puts the ECM into "Clear Flood Mode".

2. Wait about 30 seconds then try to start it as usual, just using the key, don't touch /pump the gas.

Another suggestion, as already stated, listen for the fuel pump to kick on when you turn the key. There should be a humming sound coming from the gas tank area. If you here it, it could be a clog in the line. Also could be a clogged filter, that should be checked first.

I know you don't want to hear this, but the heet could have caused the problem. Sometimes that stuff, and others, plays havoc with F.I. systems, particularly the injectors.

Could you be a little more specific in terms of how the truck was starting/running before this happened? Was it hard to start before?, in the same type of weather?.

In any event, run away from that mechanic, he's trying to rip you off. Even here, where labor is $81 - $100/hr, it won't cost $600 for a pump replacement, even at the dealer. Don't know what the prices are in MN, but as stated it may be about $200, but that pump will cost him less than what you'll pay for it at a parts store (he'll get it a "jobber's" price). The most time-consuming part of the job will be disconnecting the lines/filler neck, taking down the tank (which is a bear), the actual replacement of the pump in like 15 minutes. If it is the pump, make sure a new fuel filter is installed as well and that the lines a clear of debris and such.

Keep us posted.

ldybugs10

www.LMCtruck.com is a good site. They sell pretty much all S10 parts. I actually have a 3.8 in 1988 S10. The rearend went out recently. Waiting until after the holidays to get it fixed.

canufixit

I'd take the bill from your first Mechanic (and I use that title VERY LOOSELY here) - subtract our the labor and ignition module cost - take the burned fuse in hand, and go back an DEMAND a refund !!
When he says he want the Ignition module back - hand him the fuse and ask him WHY he can NOW tell the difference !! And I'd still DEMAND the cash back !! Missing a blown fuse and charging a customer big bucks in deplorable .... The Guy/Shop should loose Their business licenses if he does not refund your money ...

Ok, Now I've calmed down ...

justins10

help! i'm driving it(2.2 auto)down the road and it dies. i just recently acquired this truck so i'm not real familiar with it, but i'm getting there.
it seems to be electrical. svc eng light is on. i had the ign mod tested. comp test lists cam and crank sensors along with emission sensors. i replaced crank sensor. it idles fine, but typically it will die just after it shifts and the tack drops. the only way to keep in running is to throw it into neutral and keep it tacking above 3 grand. also, it will stay running if i put it in 3rd and keep the tack above 3 grand(this puts me driving about 60mph). when i first got the truck it would die occasionally, but i could refire after i put it in neutral. now i have to sit a min or two. twice it had to sit for more than an hour to refire. i really want to keep the truck, can anyone help?

jstein2

I have a 2000 S10. 2.2 eng. 5 speed 50k miles. mpg is about 22 city. It has never been tuned up. The check engine soon light is on. I have mechanic that does work on the side. His scan reads a low catylst efficency code 1720 . He did change the O2 sensor downstream of the converter. The light came back on after 3 days. He then cleaned out the throttle body and reset the light. It then came back on after the first restart the next day. The truck seems to run just fine. can you help me out

ginasmuffins

Wow thanks for all the help. I was told to listen for the pump but just haven't had time to do it yet. I've been working 14 hour days at work (OT) to make up for the money I'll be spending on this stupid truck!

But yes $600 , when I heard that I knew I wasn't going there. I've called parts stores and the cheapest I've found is $250.00 with a 1 year warranty. I also know someone who said they would put it in for $75. So, if that's the problem it's still going to cost me but not 600.

As for the running before this happened, it's always been pretty alright in colder weather. In recent weeks it's been starting up slow but has started. If I could speak I'd make the sound but typing, it sounded like "raaeeeerrrr raaaeeer" (HAHA that's funny)

Come to think of it, in the fall time there would be times where I'd turn the ignition and NOTHING happened. Then I'd try it again and it would work. One time I had to turn it about 6 times and I was getting worried. I asked a mechanic about that, and he tried it but it never did it so he didn't know what it was. (I don't know if this even has anything to do with my current problem)

At any rate, I'm going to listen for that sound. I'm pulling another 15 hr day tomorrow. Someone also said to check the EMS Sensor fuse. Would a fuel pump for a 1991 work in my 1998? OK I'm done. THANK YOU ALL! -Lacey

superman1975

Try checking your throttle positioning sensor.

steveo6

I am rebuilding my truck and can't find these parts, can anyone help me out and tell me where to look?

bigbutr

I work for the Postal Service doing rural routes with a 1996 S-10 Ex. Cab with the 4.3 V6. The other day I ran through a pond (I service out in the woods) and it flooded the engine. :sick:
Pulled the plugs (water drained out even before turning it over) and the oil pan (another 3-4 quarts of water mixed in) and cleaned it all up. After replacing the plugs and wires and putting in fresh oil, it starts fine and drives fine.
Is there anything - other than avoiding big puddles - that I should do or is what I did fine and I just avoided a big engine bill? :confuse: Thanks

Mr_Shiftright

man are you ever lucky....

salty4

I have a 2001 somoma 4x4 it won't go into 4h but works in 4l. Need solution.

argonzalezm

The brake light on my 1995 Chevy S10 is always on, I checked the brake fluid and its ok, however I added some more till it almost spilled, but it didn't turned off. I've noticed that when the temperature is low in the morning the light tuns off but after driving a while and the car gets hot it turns on again!!! What could be the cause?? Do anybody can give me a solution?

alcan

Apply the parking brake. If the light gets brighter, there's an ABS system problem.

And turn off your bold type.

jae5

If it's slow to start, you might want to have the battery & starter checked. Pretty simple to do. I would also suggest having the entire starter/charging system tested. The
Come to think of it, in the fall time there would be times where I'd turn the ignition and NOTHING happened. Then I'd try it again and it would work. One time I had to turn it about 6 times and I was getting worried.

You should've had it checked out then. Anyway, when the truck would do this, what happened to the dash lights, did they go out. Did you notice, if the door was opened, the dome light going out or getting very dim? Also, it sounds as though the starter solenoid may not have been engaging. Could've been from a weak battery, a sticking / bad solenoid or a heat soak condition.

I don't believe the '91 fuel pump will work in the 98, different pressure requirements. Why do you ask? Did this person who know who'll do it for $75 suggest or say they have a '91 pump that would do the trick? If so, run from them too: never put in a part someone just happens to have laying around, or would probably work.

In any event, you really need to take the vehicle to a place where the people are knowledgeable because if you don't, you'll be out of more $$

bigbutr

Well, lucky is a relative term now.
Engine starts up fine, though it seems stuck in a high idle, around 1500 where it was usually around 900. Also, went to drive it and once I got up to speed - 45 mph - started having some issues with the tranny.
It may seem like a dumb question, but could I have gotten water into the tranny? I checked the fluid and it appears there is more fluid in there, but I can't really tell. The fluid color is good since I just had it flushed not four months ago. I plan on taking it to a shop, so any thoughts you may have beforehand would be greatly appreciated.

alcan

Every automatic transmission has an atmospheric vent. If the vehicle was partially submerged, there's probably water in the trans. Considering that the adhesive which holds the friction facings on trans clutches and bands is water soluble, it'd be a good idea to have the trans flushed ASAP.

Mr_Shiftright

Well lucky in that you had a GREAT chance of hydraulic locking, which basically means all your connecting rods would be bent and your engine would seize.

yeah, you'd better flush the transmission, too.