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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions



  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. If ok, you'll need to have an ABS capable scanner hooked up to check for any stored diagnostic trouble codes.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Could be several things. Start by having any stored ABS trouble codes retrieved.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I have a 92 4.3z which was doing the same thing. A code check of 33 came up. I replaced the MAP sensor ( around $30. bucks and five minutes) and it runs fine now at start up and otherwise.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Thanks for your reply on the ABS. I finally got my new ABS modulator valve in the other day. It fixed the problem as you indicated. New question. What's your thoughts on electric fan retro kits for same S-10. One time in cooler weather, we drove it a couple of times on the highway with out the fan. We were waiting for a back ordered fan clutch. It had a marked response in zip. For an old guy in an old truck, zip is good.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Good to hear back that you got the ABS problem sorted out. Using the red brake warning light to indicate an ABS problem wasn't one of GM's brighter ideas. Re the electric fan retro, great idea as long as you get a serious unit like this one and not one of the 10" toys:
  • jbovee23jbovee23 Posts: 1
    I have a 87 S-10 doing the exact same thing. I have been trying to eliminate things as time has passed. Have even gone so far as to replace gas-tank/fuel pump. Replaced Distributor cap, coil, plugs, etc... while trying to start if watching the Throttle Body injector the few times it DID start - there was a more solid flow of fuel spitting... when it wouldn't turn over - it was a LOT less. I think our next step is to look into taking that off - and checking the filter on it - and maybe replacing it... Have any luck since you posted this?

    Also pulling out hair...
  • have you checked the brake hose it can splinter off on the inside and a flap of rubber will pass fluid one way and block it th other way ...
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    For a long time now the wipers on my 92 S-10 have been acting goofy. Sometimes when I turn on my signals the wipers will cycle a time or two. Then sometimes going down the road for no reason the wipers will cycle. I suspect its the wiring in the steering column. Has anyone else experience this problem and if so how big a project to correct?
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    It sounds like the "Mist" circuit is turning on - because, asyou said, the wipers only cycle one or twice (or otherwise stated to not stay on - or do not squirt fluid ...).... ??

    Try this to try to isolate.

    While sitting at a dead stop and ign on. - try to SLOWLY turn on just the mist cycle and see how much you have to move (rotate?) the switch. Do the same to the wiper on switch .... The thought here is that it might not be in the wiring - but that the switch(es) contact(s) may be so close that a jiggle of the truck /bump- or a nudge on the turn signal may make the switch(s) close for a second all by itself/themselves ... At least you may be able to tell if it's in the wiring in the column / harness/Vehicle - or in the switch(es) themselves/ itself . I'm not sure if there is a way to adjust the switch if it's too close/senstitive ....

  • hunterjhunterj Posts: 2
    I have a 98 S10 with the 4.3L and automatic tranny, lately I have noticed a loud noise that occurs while traveling anywhere from 30 to 70 MPH. The noise sounds similar to the fan (only much louder) and seems to come from the front passenger side of the vehicle, but I don’t think its coming from the engine. The noise completely goes away while the steering wheel is turned at all to the right? Does anyone have any ideas on what is causing this or how I might fix it? Thanks-Hunt
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Sounds like a right front wheel bearing to me ....
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I'll second that diagnosis, wheel bearing, when you turn toward the suspect it gets quite. 4 wheel drive, common problem.
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    I had my left front bearing changed under warranty (32K !!).... I looked in the GM shop manual I bought - it "looked" easy to change - basically pull the caliper and unbolt the flange plate, that is part of the bearing assy, - and replace .... However - the description I read to "change it per the book" looked terrible .... be sure to check the manuals if you decide to change it yourself !!!!
  • brightdimbrightdim Posts: 5
    my '03 ZR2 had it's AC serviced nearly 3 weeks ago. turns out, the transfer case vacumn switch was leaking oil into the AC control head, rear of HVAC control head, vacumn canister, both interior harnesses, and all HVAC actuators. so, they replaced those parts then cleaned the vacumn line from switch to four wheel drive actuator, removed main vacumn line from engine to clean and cleaned vacumn line to the interior harnesses. next day, the truck majorly overheats with no warning and i'm talking coolant at a rolling boil in the resevoir, the engine smelling burned, and the radiator stone dry and there's fluid streaming down the pass. wheel well.. ever since then it's been a battle with the dealership to fix it (they claim it was a faulty radiator cap) and a battle to keep it from overheating. now my transmission doesn't shift until redline if it's been running for more than 30-45 minutes, it won't shift when accelerating, and the engine has a loud roar to it. remeniscent to a cold start in winter with almost a metal on metal sound?

    what could have made the trans. case leak oil? what damage could the leak have caused to the engine or transmission if any? could the issue with the AC have caused the engine to overheat? any help would be great :D the truck is back at the same dealer for the third time and they told me after this, they washed their hands of it. chevrolet told me they can't do jack because the dealer is privately owned. anyone have suggestions?
  • brightdimbrightdim Posts: 5
    in my experience, if you haven't driven or moved the vechicle while turning it on and off to get an accurate reading, chances are you need to replace the gauge which is comprised of a resistor wrapped or attached to a bimetallic strip, with the strip being what causes the needle to move.

    the only other option is the sensor floating in the tank. it could be getting stuck or the unit just needs replaced which would mean dropping the tank.
  • I have had a 2001 S10 2.2 for the past 3 or so years. I have not really liked the truck all that much do to little isuess that I would not see with some of the other vehicles that I have owned. But I recently have started to have a problem with the engine at acceleration. When the truck is at idle it will shudder a lil and you can hear a faint pop inside the engine. I will not assume anything....(Being that if I suggest something then you all will not be able to decide for your selfs what it could be). When I hit the accelerator the engine hesitates and bogs while it goes up in RPM. This problem gets worse the longer that I drive the truck. I am not sure about where the ideal point of rest is for the volt meter but, it sits at 12-13 volts while idle. The light are sort of dim some times when Im idle at a light at night. And the problem is progressive. Getting worse and worse each time i get in. I did have one time that the Check Engine light cam on once while i was going about 80 on the free way. I was in 5th gear. But I listened very closely and could hear the engine idling rough. Then i felt it jerking a lil. If anyone knows anything this could be it would be a burden lifted. I can not go to the dealership that my truck was sold to me at because they stole the crap out of my truck and i called the cops on them. So I am relying on you guess to let me know somthing.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    What diagnostic trouble code was retrieved after you saw the check engine light come on and took to a repair shop for service?
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    You need to bring the vehicle to a non-GM dealer mechanic who can give you a thorough analysis of what caused the overheating. It sounds like the dealer's service department was negligent. If you have evidence of negligence, then get yourself a lawyer and sue them. GM has lost enough customers and the threat of a lawsuit may get you the appropriate compensation. Good luck.
  • i have a 1995 S-10 4x4 that has about 30k miles on rebuilt engine. I am having trouble with either the ignition or fuel delivery systems. I have Replaced the entire ignition system except the ecm. I have also replaced the fuel system except the injector s. My problem is when i take off from a light or stop sign, it coughs and dies, and sometimes driving steadily at about 60 mph it just shuts off. If i ease lightly on the throttle, it does ok, but if I have to get on the highway, it coughs and dies. Sometimes it starts right back up, and other times i have to use starting fluid. Occasionally it takes up to 20 min. to restart. I have had it timed. Any one who might know what may be the problem, please reply.
  • It did not bring back a code. I know that sounds weird. But the only thing I can say about tat is that the light for check engine did not stay on for very long. Maybe 2-3 sec. I have sense tried to make it happen again. With no prevail. I have an update though. My truck will not stutter when the volts are high. But performs tarribley when they are low. I work at an entry at a military base. During the day i bothered everyone with a chevy. Here is what I have figured out. It is not normal for my vehicle to be sitting at 11volts at idle.
  • zr2bmjzr2bmj Posts: 5
    I have a '97 Chevy S10 ZR2 - It has been constant trouble since I bought it used w/ 40,000k. The newest problem I have is, when I accelerate from a stop it moves slowly like I'm in a high gear. I eventually take off after about 10 sec of very slow movement and seems OK until about 55 or 60mph then the RPMs are high like it is not shifting to OD. I checked it for code - no code was returned, I expected code 1870. Transmission or something else? :confuse:
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Trans acting that bad and no codes, strange. Check for blown fuses, if none I would disconnect the electrical connector at the trans, in the harness end find pin E and check for 12 V with key on run, this is the power feed from the ignition switch to the trans. :)
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,206
    In terms of volts:

    Battery itself: minimum 12.6V (6 plates, 2.1V per plate)
    While idling: 13.5 - 14.5V, depends on idling speed, if accessories are on or not

    Here are a couple of quick and dirty battery-load tests you can do (better if you have a buddy help you but you do alone).

    Hook a volt-ohm meter to the battery, take a reading. Then, take a reading with the engine idling. Next, crack the throttle (raise idle speed) to see if the voltage reading increases (it should). If it doesn't, battery is not being charged.

    Follow the same procedures above, but instead of opening the throttle, leave at idle and put a load on the battery, like turn the headlights on, a/c on, and/or radio (this is where a buddy/budette comes in handy). See if the reading goes up or down. Reading may go down a little when the a/c compressor kicks on, but should recover really quick. Should even go up a little, as idle speed usually is increased a few hundred RPM when a load is placed on @ idle.

    What does the volt gauge do when you're driving (assuming you have a gauge in the IP)? Does your batt light come on, or stay on longer than normal when starting? How is the cranking, slower each day? If you have a Delco battery with the small site-window in it, what color is the dot? Should be green.

    I would look at the alternator connections, and take the alternator in an parts shop and have them test it, as well as the battery. Regulator could be bad. They will perform similar test as above. Many shops can do this, and will for free. If you're not mechanically-inclined, take it to a dealer or independent shop you can trust.
  • working on a 2000 S10...problem that we are trying to solve is that when the brakes are applied the vehicle slows in a normal fashion no matter what speed we are traveling....BUT when it slows to lets say about 3-5 mph the ABS takes over and the pedal and front brakes pulsate as if it thought it was skidding...scary too....for my wife,LOL We were told that it is the speed sensor that was bad the we would have to replace it. we decided to replace both but noticed they were different lengths than original so ....we checked the depth and length of the new sensors and shimmed to the same clearance.....what is the correct clearance between the sensor (siemens brand) and the toothed internal rotor... we have a machine design firm and use sensors all the time and know they need to be realtively close .008 to .012 inches....OR was this mis -dianosed? thanks Chief
  • What other problems have you had since you bought the truck? I bought my truck, an 01 z-R2 with 40k on it as well but its been great so far.
  • zr2bmjzr2bmj Posts: 5
    Driver side wheel hub assembly ball joints -popping, loose - I almost lost the wheel this was the 1st thing on the first week I owned the truck, heater core - clogged Dex. coolant jelled; radiator; motor - it blew at 99k and I never "hot rodded" or "mudded"; altenator; water pump; transmission bell housing - broke. I have probably left something out but you get the jist of it.
  • zr2bmjzr2bmj Posts: 5
    I took my truck to a trans. shop - They are running wire tests and I asked them about pin E and fuses. Thanks they are running the tests. The guys said it may not be the trans. What could cause the truck to go into self preservation mode? Check Engine Light on but no code? :confuse:
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Light on and no codes, something is not right, how many people have said no codes. If the cig fuse is blown, it will not power up diagnostics. :)
  • zr2bmjzr2bmj Posts: 5
    2. I was there when the technician had it hooked up, it said no code found - he thought it was weird but seemed optimistic - he is not so optimistic today(neither am I). I will check the cig. port. Thanks for the feedback - I wish I would have known about this forum earlier.
    O'yeah in addition to my earlier reply - the 4whl dr. module went out. Ever seen that movie money pit - well money truck.
This discussion has been closed.