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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions



  • Hope somone can point me in the right direction with this....

    I recently found out that my turn signals on my truck were not working AT ALL. My cruise control and windshield wipers on the turn signal work and my flashers will work, so i know it is not the bulbs, but it will not even blink on the dash board when i turn on the turn signals either. I was reading in the chilton manual that there is a turn signal relay/module by the cigarette lighter......could this be the problem or would it be the actual turn signal switch itself???
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    It does sound like the relay - chances of ALL the signal stuff breaking is high - except where it is common in the relays ....

    I'd do this ...

    Check a couple bulbs (just to be sure and it only take a couple minutes)
    Buy a new relay and swap it out (or swap it with another truck ...)
    If these fail - get out the schematic and the test light ....
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Replace the turn signal flasher. :)
  • I need some help, my s10 won't start after it rains. It will turn over and I think I can hear the fuel pump working when I rurn the key, but it won't "catch". The distributor cap and rotor were just changed; it didn't help. Any suggestions?
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Replace the sparkplug wires. :)
  • i need some help i have a 2001 s-10 2.2 and i need some adivce does any one out there know why or maybe it is just my tuck but this thing dont have enough power to get out of its own way it seems like it is in second gear when it takes off very slow truck another thing is sometimes when i turn the blinker on a bell sounds like the door is open or some thing also the gas gauge is off. this truck is a nice looking truck and only has about 36000.on it should i have these problems?
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I would say it is starting off in 2nd, any codes. :)
  • I have a 2001 S-10 with a 4.3 engine. My service engine light is on with a code of 1345. In the book that code means cam shaft to crank shaft position correlation is faulty I want to know what that means. If it's a sensor I have to replace or what it means.
  • I have a 5 speed out of a 2 wheel drive s10. I would like to to remove my (4x4) 4 speed transmission and install the 5 speed.
    OTHER THAN CHANGING OUTPUT HOUSING, will the output shaft from my 4 speed interchange with the 5 speed's guts?
  • :cry: Today went 4x4 and went through a 4 foot deep mudd hole, well it started getting very hard to keep alive when they were towning it out so I was told to cut it so water would not enter the engin, so I did! Wel after I was out it would not start for 30 min. Then it started to crank, but would not egnite! So I was pulled to a long hill and we did a rolling start! Well now it starts fine, but when I shif it in to gears nuttin happend the rpms go up butn the truck does not move! Any sussgestions?
  • I specialize in wiring problems, and the only thing that fits your problem is a loose
    connecter in the back of your instrument cluster " Gauge Pod". Your transmission shifts gears based on a signal from the "vehicle speed sensor". This sensor is also used to turn the Seedometer. If you have a bad connection to the instrument
    cluster, or damage to that connection, if will cause your gas gauge not to work, your truck not to sift right, turn signal problems, etc. Any curcuit that runs through the printed curcuit on the back of the "cluster". Usually, the connectors are just misaligned in there sockets.
    This could also be caused by a loose ground to the cluster, check your main dash ground located in the lower left corner of the dash, above the E-brake, 14 or 16 gauge black wire.
    That should get you fixed-up!
  • You are correct, More than likely, it is a faulty crank sensor, mounted above the main pully at the front, bottom of the engine. Your camshaft sensor is mounted behind the water pump on the front of the motor, or is build into the distributer, depending on year model. Basiclly, it you have a Distributer, the camshaft sensor is in it "pickup coil" Recommend that you have your car tested with a DIAG computer. This will show the values for each sensor in real time, and pen point the
    problem. I would not recommend buying parts, as this could even be a damaged ECM. The factory service manual from a dealer will tell you step by step tests for each part, including the wiring harness.
  • I just bought a 1999 Chevy S10 pick up, 5 speed 2.2L. Everything seems ok but the only problem is that after running for a while, when i make a stop, and try to shift to 1st, the engine will stop or it will start jumping like when you take out the clutch out and don't put enough gas on the engine, then if i put it in to neutral, at low rpm the engine sounds good but [non-permissible content removed] soon as i push the gas, the engine starts jumping and coghing like if it had an obstructed fuel line. I already change the fuel filter, and the air filter, and a mechanic check the fuel pump presure and checks ok, and the comspumtion of fuel seems ok. The mechanic got some codes from the car's diagnostic module, didn't told me which ones, but just told me one was from the TPM and another from some some part of the chassis.
    I don't think is an obstructed fuel line because the problem seems to be very random and it's not using too much fuel nor lack power of anything when its running good. Then if i turn off the engine for 1hr or more, then it starts just like new. Any ideas how to find out what it is? I hope i can find out what it is, because i'm about to sell the damn thing. Thanks :confuse:
  • Hi,

    Just a thought ... maybe you have two problems ?? 1 is the rough running and the second is the clutch itself?? When you put in in gear with the clutch in - it should not change the engine speed - providing - the clutch is really adjusted correctly. Perhaps the clutch needs adjustment as it is still slightly rubbing on the flywheel when the clutch is in ???
  • A 96 S10 4x4 5 speed- whats the best weight synthetic oil for the gearbox? It says gm synchromesh oil, but what the hell is that? I'd rather have synthetic oil in it. I put in 90 w gear oil and now it grinds when shifting cold. Any suggestions on what weight to use ??
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    That year has an issue with plug wires, there is a 7 yr 70K warranty on the 99. My warranty is still good to 4-06. :)
  • :confuse: I don't think is the clutch, or it doesn't feel that way, because the clutch seems to be ok, it shifts right on time without any problem, and it's not to high nor low. And like i said, is something very intermittent. Any other idea? Thanks
  • when I start my truck it blowes the 20amp fuse that feed the fuel pump relay.
    I have checked the fuel pump its working fine.
  • I tried to start my s-dime(2.2L, 5-speed, std. cab.) the other day and the lights started flickering along with a loud, quick ticking sound in the dashboard. After a bit, a cloud of white smoke filled the cab and smelled of burnt rubber. I checked it out the next day and it was a wire that crosses under the steering coumn from one side to the other. I need to know what this is, and if replacing that one wire will fix my problem... any help?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Different synchronizer ring materials require specific lubricants to work properly. Use only GM Synchromesh Fluid, PN 12345349
  • What was that about the 7 yr Warranty ?? - First I heard if this ??? What's the details on years of MFG, etc . ???

  • Thanks, I did put in the GM syncro fluid, its fine now. Thanks!
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    This letter is intended to make you aware that some 1998 and 1999 model year GMC Sonoma truck, equipped with a 2.2L 4-cylinder engine, may experience illumination of the "Service Engine Soon" (SES) light, engine misfire, rough idle and hesitation. These conditions may be due to spark plug wire failure. The cause of this condition may be improperly seated and loose spark plug wire terminals.
    To address the above mentioned condition, General Motors is providing owners with special warranty coverage. If this condition occurs on your 1998 or 1999 model GMC Sonoma truck within 7 years of the date your vehicle was originally placed in service or 70,000 miles (112,000 km), whichever occurs first, the condition will be repaired for you at no charge. :)
  • Did you figure out what was squeeking?
  • We have a 2002 4.3L V6 ZR2 with 85000 miles. Typically we got 15.5-16.2 mpg on the truck, but lately it has been under 15. (Ouch!) This weekend we changed the fuel filter and got 16.8 on the next full tank! I'm not sure if this was all due to the filter change, maybe it was good gas or a big tailwind. We will see after I get a few more tanks down. But for the price and time it takes to change the filter, I think it's worth a shot. Not to mention the stuff coming out the old one was pretty nasty.
  • My radiator fluid has turned into sludge. I think it is because one weak day when the guys at Jiffy Lube said you are low and asked to top it off I said sure... I think that was a big mistake. Anyways, I think they added the regular blue coolant to my orange dexcool. And although the engine is working fine, underneath the radiator cap there lurks a bunch of lovely sludgy muddy looking stuff.

    I originally was thinking of going to the dealer and having them flush and replace it. Although, I've been looking around on the internet and reading horror stories about Dexcool. Can you switch back to the classic blue green antifreeze after Dexcool if the system is flushed thoroughly? Or should I just stick with the dexcool?
  • Hi ,
    TPM could be TPS, which is throttle position sensor. I had mine replaced
    2 weeks ago because at a stop, when trying to throttle up, it would lurch and
    studder like it was out of gas, when I shut down the motor and started it again,
    it would run fine, I have seen alot of simular problems on the site, and this is a
    common problem for the 2.2L. so try replacing the sensor, they run about $45
    atleast, mine did. good luck, hopes this helps T
  • I have a 94 v6 122,000 miles automatic, the problem is the truck runs great except it can't seem to shift easily into second gear, the truck drags and there's a loud almost roaring sound as the truck fights against itself to gain speed, however, once the tac hits 3.5 then it quickly shifts into second. All other gears are operating fine. The oil change done just two weeks ago is now dirty, the new sparks are filthy. I just had the fuel injectors cleaned. My truck won't start unless my foot lightly touches the gas pedal...which I never had to do previously. The local technicians can't find the source of the problem.
  • ch1ch1 Posts: 1
    Any hints/tips on replacing the alternator on a 2001 S-10 2.2L 4cyl? It looks pretty hard to get access to - not on the top of the engine like most. Some parts will have to be removed to gain access, but I'm not sure which ones are best. Have replaced alternators before, but I'm pretty much of a mechanic wannabe...
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I would remove the passenger side wheel and splash shield, a little work but good access. :)
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