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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions



  • chevy02chevy02 Posts: 19
    Where is the radiator drain on a 2002 ZR2? Driver or passenger side?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Should be driver side, back side of radiator.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    You are right that would just cause vapor leakage only. I would check the electrical connector at the tank for corroded or burnt pins before I install another pump. If you find a problem with the connector GM has a repair connector for that reason.
  • walt03walt03 Posts: 6
    I still have spark jumping through my wires. I have a 95 s-10 2.2 I have used the oem wires, aftermarket racing wires, changed the ing. module, both ing. coils, plugs, checked all the grounds, and everything is ok. Any thing else i can try???? :confuse:
  • ken31ken31 Posts: 3
    Thanks Al,

    I thought it would be easy once I get the door opened but everything on the truck is flimsy as @#% I thought I should check before I get too far

    Thanks again,
  • jus wondering if a 02 envoy front bumper would fit my 00' s 10 without problems. even if it takes alittle customizing its cool.

    thanks Ryan
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Have the coolant temp sensor and manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor verified with a scan tool.
  • I recently purchased a 1990 S-10 with the 4.3L and 148k miles on the vehicle. I did a complete tun-up to the motor and changed out the fuel filter as well. I still have no power when trying to accelerate. It feels and sounds as if the motor is starving for fuel or air. The "Check Engine" is NOT illuminated and no codes are stored in the computer. I am thinking that the injectors are clogged or maybe the ignition module is bad. Can anyone help me out with this problem? Thanks!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Verify no exhaust restriction by haveing back pressure checked.
  • mattv1mattv1 Posts: 12
    do you have a high output coil? If so you have to get higher ohm plug wires
  • walt03walt03 Posts: 6
    As far as I know the coils that I have are the same as OE. The wires that I had put on the truck were 8mm accel . they were worse than OE. I will try and find a higher ohm wire also! Thanks for the help. any other ideas???
  • every time i drive my 1988 s10 pickup longbed, the rearend makes a loud thumping sound. can anyone help me?
  • I have a 98 Chev S-10. The truck began jumping every once and a while. It progressively got worse and it would die on me in the middle of 12:00 Downtown Dallas traffic! It used to start back up, but now I cannot even drive it due to the stopping and not being able to start it back up. I replaced the fuel filter and it ran fine for 2 weeks. But, it started back and now it is undriveable. Is there junk in my gas tank, or is my fuel pump leaking? Any ideas? Thanks!
  • sedaliasedalia Posts: 14
    2001 Sonoma SLS 4wd ExtCab 58000miles: Can't believe that already I have to replace the left and right front wheel hub assemblies and ball joints - and the e-coder motor for the electronic transfer case. Seems that a Professional Grade Truck should last longer. And no, I don't use the vehicle off-road an awful lot nor do I abuse it. Must admit we use this vehicle for our weekly trips from Denver to the ski resorts which usually have boogered-up parking lots, and to various out-of-the-way streams and ponds fishing. Still - Seems early from a wear and tear standpoint, no ? This really bugs me. Although I have to admit that I like the truck even though the cab has become too small for the three of us in our family; thatI had constant problems with the fuel gauge (very annoying); and geez what's up with this: the under-dash gets so danged hot that it burns my feet in the summertime. We baby this vehicle as we do with all of our vehicles, regular maintainance etc. Phooey.
  • mattv1mattv1 Posts: 12
    can someone tell me where to find the brown wire you disconnect to set the timing on an 89 with a 2.5 4 cyl. I have looked everywhere
  • 400lb in the box. 200 by each wheel well and the truck will ride and corner as good as it will get.
  • I had an 88 and I think it was in the glove box or in the area just below it.
  • I have the same problem with my 2000. On mine if I push the seat all the way back with the back folded forward it will lock in and be ok. If it is not locked this way the seat will slide back and fourth. I don't know of a fix.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Key on, engine off fuel pressure specs are 55-61 p.s.i.
  • I have a 1992 Chevy S10 that has been sitting in
    the woods for the past 4-5 yrs. It's four wheel drive with a 4.3 liter v6 engine automatic trans
    i put a brand new battery in it and plugs and wires.
    i poured trans fluid in the spark plug holes to loosen the rings. let it set for 14 hours turned it
    over put plugs back in then tried to fire it up and the darn thing acts like its not getting spark. Any
    suggestions? Thanks.

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    My info says that with an '89 2.5L, put it into field service mode by jumpering ALDL terminals A and B with a paper clip to set timing. Read steps 5, 6, and 7: - 00823d8012a4c9.jsp
  • mattv1mattv1 Posts: 12
    I appreciate all the help yall gave. I just couldnt seem to find that wire. Guess mine isnt equipped with it.
  • I have a 98 4cyl sonoma and a couple months ago I received a "special bulletin" saying some sonomas might have problems with a piece of the inner lining of the front exhaust pipe might break off and tumble into the catalic converter causing either a rattling noise and/or lose of power and illumination of the MIL. What my truck would do is I'd be driving and all of the sudden all my gauges would bounce, all my lights on my information display would blink and my truck would cut out. It normally would start back up but my MIL would still stay on and the problem would happen again shortly after. Sometimes if I leave it sit for a half a day or so the light would turn off. I had taken my truck to a GMC dealer and they replaced basically my whole exhaust. Only a couple of weeks later, the exact same thing started happening again. So if anyone could drop a few hints, that would help a poor college student out.
  • mattv1mattv1 Posts: 12
    hey al how am I sure which terminal is a and b. I have abook but my aldl terminal doesnt have the same amount of plugs in it. I read the steps u told me to I just want to make sure before I fry my computer
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Unfortunately, wheel bearings and ball joints are frequent problems on 4WD S10's and Sonomas. Also, look out for leaking oil cooler lines and intake manifold gasket. These two problems usually occur after 3 or 4 years. Best of luck with your truck.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    95 was a crossover year for GM. Some units had the newer OBD II connector. Does your data link look like the 12 pin one at the top of this page:

    or this 16 pin one:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,368
    Your engine might like synthetic and I can't see any harm in using it; however, I also can't see much good in using it unless you are driving under extremes of some sort----like: extreme cold starting (Alaska), extreme heat (Arizona), heavy towing and especially racing on the track (not likely in your case).

    There's no good proof out there that it extends engine life for normal drivers in normal cars despite claims you will here to the contrary. It MAY be true but there's no proof out there that very convincing.

    As for "improving gas mileage", another claim you will here, all the testing I've read seem to indicate that you shouldn't count on more than say 3% better fuel mileage. If that's worth it for you, then there's a reason to use it right there.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    If you're changing the oil at 2500-3000 mile intervals I don't think it will make much difference by switching to synthetic. I would be more concerned with the typical problems associated with this engine. The oil cooler lines and intake manifold gasket tend to leak. I have a 2000 S10 with the same engine and 78,000 miles. A few months ago I had to replace both. Otherwise, I suggest you stay the course with your regular maintenance schedule. I have heard of many people getting 250 to 300 thousand miles out of this engine. Good luck.
  • sedaliasedalia Posts: 14
    Thanks. Turns out the bad de-coder motor was a false alarm. The electronic switches simply started working properly on that thing. I suspect that during the diagnosis procedure "something happened" or, who knows? I was just happy to see that the Electronic Transfer Case wasn't working, then was. I wonder now if there is a fuse for that thing, because I never thought to check that. In any case - Saved over $500. Maybe the dealer was just zooming me, do you suppose that ever happens? Wound up replacing the front shocks, hub assemblies and upper/lower bearings at a Big O who were properly equipped. Also changed the fluids in the back and front differentials and the transfer case. So, bring on the snows! Will keep an eye on the oil cooler lines and gasket.
  • mattv1mattv1 Posts: 12
    its the 12 pin one. I tried to jump it and set the timing but as soon as I pull the jumper out it idles abck up and the timing runs up to around 14 to 16 degrees tdc. am i doing something wrong. i replaced all the sensors and still have spark knock. wondering if i can set the timing below tdc and see if that works
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