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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions



  • is the backup light switch in the transmittion, if so can it be changed from the top? inspection time
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Year? Engine? Trans?
  • Hey,
    I know it's been a long time since your post, but I appreciate your post. I'm paranoid of breaking something and the info that the panel just pops off is a great relief. Thanks again for the details.
  • I have an '89 GMC S-15 pick-up,(2wd,6cyl.,4.3 ltr.), and I just installed a new starter in it. I checked the flywheel and inspected everything I was supposed to and when I went to start it, all I heard was the starter motor spinning. It wasn't cranking the engine at all. My question is where to I go from here? Could the new starter be faulty? Please help me! Dawnpatrol219
  • i have 97 s10 4x4 pickup with 4.3l changed crankshaft sensor engine light went out truck startedright up next day crank long time befor starting no eng light turned off truck now will not startno fire to plugs changed new sensor and coil now i haveno power toairbag turnsignals gauges ecm ign. pink wire out of ignitionswitch dosnot get power.
  • junya1junya1 Posts: 3
    Hello everyone, I have a 1985 S-10 2WD 2.5 fuel injection. I am having a problem with the transmission, it will not shift gears. I've replaced the master and slave cylinders and it worked fine for a couple of hours. I remove the side plate next to the slave cylinder and noticed that when the clutch pedal is depressed I wan't getting any movement. The rod from the slave cylinder presses on a plate that I suppose engages the clutch. Well i can move that plate back and forth with my hand, it's not springing back like it suppose to. Is there a spring that's suppose to make this plate go back after pressure is let off the clutch pedal. It's going foward and staying forward. Please help
  • cred4ucred4u Posts: 2
    I Have own a 1999 S10. Just recently (this week) had it back at the dealer to replace a stresed oil pan, which they did the last time they worked on it (about two weeks ago). When I picked it up they informed me that they also replaced seals on the oil pump. Now I have a constant noise that was never there. At first I thought it was the heater fan but I do beleive now that it is the oil pump, sound like it is coming up from underneath. Any suggestions.
    Thank you Ed
  • I have a 1998 GMC Sonoma with 110k on it and I think I need to replace the rear end pinion bearings. Is it ok to just put them in there and leave the existing shims as they sit?
  • cusackmcusackm Posts: 15
    Sounds like you have got it fixed then.

    My gas mileage started declining about 15k miles ago. But there is more to it than that. I've had this intermittent miss that iI've been trying to track down for a long time, replaced everything but the coil in the ignition. It finally wouldnt start one day and i found out it was a bad distributor cap. (Those are a bad design - im on my fourth or fifth one since ive had the truck and two of them have failed completely) I replaced it with an expensive one and the miss went away. Did i mention the miss stayed there through three different caps? And then shortly after, the catalytic converter went bad. I just took it off and banged everything out of it. Now my light stays on all the time and I dont know if there is another sensor out or if it is because i dont have a converter.
  • cusackmcusackm Posts: 15
    I'd check the fuel pressure if I were you.

    And to get the middle spark plug out... Jack up the front end and take the tire off. Then you'll need a spark plug socket that has a nut like thin on the end where the socket wrench plugs in. put your socket on the plug and then put and open end or box wrench on the socket and prepare to spend the next 30 minutes removing it about 1/16 of a turn at a time - if you're fortunate enough not to have much corrosion on it.
  • cusackmcusackm Posts: 15
    If your truck has the Borg Warner T-5 transmission, it should be cheap and very easy to replace the clutch. I have a 99 model that i had to replace the clutch on. The newer models, both 2.2 and 4.3 are a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to get the transmission out and back in. And, $600 doesnt sound that outrageous to replace a clutch on a newer model s-10. I had to replace mine in Dec. 2001. The dealer had the cheapest clutch i could find (I also worked there so i got a discount over retail). But it still cost me around $350 just for the parts.
  • cusackmcusackm Posts: 15
    It sounds like one or more springs popped out of the middle of the clutch. If that is the case, the only remedy is to replace the clutch. I know several people with s-10s that this has happened to.
  • the t-stat gage on this PU hunts up and down,the thermostat is new,as well as both of the sensers, the one for the computer and the gage, but have no clue why the gage won't read the temp of the engin, temp gun on block and t stat houseing reads correct temp of t-stat, 195 deg.any help ??
  • Sounds like something my son did at one time. He had installed a new battery and had the cables switched. As a result, the starter turned backward. If you in fact did this, you will also want to check for other damages, such as blown fuse ( a big one, 50 amps or more). Also, if this is the case, count on replacing your radio - at least the fuse.
  • Hi,We have a 1997 GMC Sonoma Pick-Up that is about to drive us crazy. If anyone can help we would appreciate it very much. Our first problem is we are having a heck of a time trying to get it out park. We have to pump the brake and hope it comes out, we can hear a clicking noise around the steering column and have been told there was a solenoid under the dash well that covers a lot of space. Our second problem is I built the transmission put everything new in it and it still shifts so hard going from 1st to 2nd and downshifting from 2nd to1st that it will squall the tires.I have worked on cars all my life and never seen anything like this.
  • Broken Tailgate Cables

    I know this is old stuff, but this question needs to be addressed because it is going to be a ongoing issue. richp2, posted the best remedy to the cable replacement issue. NAPA has the cables with a new pin and e-clip. You simply grind the rivet off and replace it with the new pin and clip. Bought a set today ($10.50 ea) and about an hour later my cables were as new again.
  • I have replaced the heat diverter switch in my 98 s-10 pickup but the flow of air still goes through the defroster when the switch is in the floor only position. Any idea whats going on?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    If automatic did you replace the valve body with a rebuilt.
  • I have a 96 S10 5 speed with a 2.2L and 250,000KM. Runs like a top. I normally do over 1000km a week and was getting 800 km to the tank for the life of the machine. As of two weeks ago, this went to 700 then this week to 650KM. No really obvious issue, no service light but I am hearing what sounds like a lifter noise. Would have guessed O2 sensor but no service light. Any ideas?
  • Ruined engine after new intake manifold gasket. The Chevy dealer recently replaced the intake manifold gasket in my 1993 S-10, 4.3L V6, engine code Z (that is, not the high output version) because coolant was slowly disappearing (but there was never any water in the oil, nor on the ground).

    The next morning after I brought it home, when I first started it up, it sounded as if I’d just changed the oil: it clattered for a second or two, then sounded normal.

    Next morning, same thing. So, I changed the oil and filter, even though the dealer had done that as part of the intake manifold gasket job.

    Next morning, same thing. And every morning thereafter.

    A couple days later, the engine started making very bad sounds while driving at normal operating temperature. I took it back to the dealer (having driven it 300 miles since the gasket job), and they said it sounds as if I have a bearing in the bottom end going out. They offered to put a used engine in it and to split the cost with me. (“Without admitting any fault,” they said.)

    I think that they know they did something wrong. Does anyone have any ideas about what may have happened?

    Thank you very much!
  • I have a 95 S10 with a bad 2.2 motor. Will an engine block from a 92 camaro work in this if I change the head and other stuff from my motor? I have tried to find a motor and not having much luck at that unless I want to pay the bone yard $1000.00 for one from a 95 which is not in my budget. Thanks to any and all replies.
  • Sounds like what happened to my friends car. Repair shop did a head change on his engine and started it and left it run not realizing they forgot to put the oil back into it. If they did something like this and thought they caught it in time it and just put new oil in it, it could have scored the main bearings. This would warrent having to change the motor or taking the crank out and haiving it turned and putting in a new set of rod and main bearings. If they are so willing to go half the cost it sounds to me as if they did do something wrong and are trying to save face.
  • Hi, I am new here. I own a 1990 S10 4X4 4.3 litre engine. Three weeks ago I had the starter rebuilt. The next day I drove to work, park the truck, came out three hours later to go for a coffee and the truck will not start. The starter is turning the motor but I am not getting any spark or fuel. Replaced the module in the distributor, still no spark or gas. The mechanic who has the truck now is baffled as to what the problem is. He has another truck there, that does run, and has tried many different parts from this truck on mine, still will not start. He even tried a different computer, nothing. If anyone has run into this before or has an idea of where to look for the problem I would really appreciate it. Thanks alot.
  • I have a 1992 S10 pickup, 2.8L engine, 124,000 mile. My problem is that once the vehicle has been started and warmed up for awhile and then turned off it is hard to re-start. The engine when warm will re-start and act just fine for only about 5 seconds and then it starts to feel like it is misfiring or is having a fuel problem then will cut out. The exhaust fumes given off while this is occurring have a very strong carbon like smell, sort of like preignition does. The vehicle when cold starts great and runs great, no problems, this only occurs when the engine is warm, you turn it off and try to re-start while hot. I have already changed the plugs, wires, cap & roter with no luck. Any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated.
  • Sounds to me like the coil is breaking down when warm or hot or the catalytic converter could be becoming clogged. Good luck.
  • Could be a vacume leak in the vacume hoses comming to the heater. Or the vacume switch that opens and shuts the door on the heater may be leaking. If it is cable controlled the door inside the heater could have come loose.
  • Check for a broken wire at the started.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Just a reminder... as mentioned in the post box and the Rules of the Road - - please do not post your email address in your messages. It benefits everyone when answers are shared in the forum, and it prevents others from using your email address for spam. If you wish for other members to be able to contact you, click the Preferenes link in the left margin and chamnge your email address from private to public - that makes your email address visible only to members logged in.

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  • Since a mechanic put in a new intake manifold gasket on my 1993 Chevy S-10, 4.3L, vin code Z, when I start the truck in the morning it sounds as if I just changed the oil: it rattles for a few seconds then sounds normal. Any ideas about what could cause this? Thank you!
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