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Mazda Protege5



  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    I had Falkens (ZIEX ZE-512) on upgraded ('tuner') wheels on my 95 Pro for nearly 10K miles, and was thoroughly impressed by their nearly perfect blend of the four important features : dry traction, wet traction, (some) snow traction (unexpected bonus!) and longevity (barely any visible wear in 10K, and warrantied upto 30K - longer if you get 60 or hgher profile versions!)

    I'd recommend those tires without hesitation.
  • Came out from a concert last night and found my driver's side window had been smashed and my stereo stolen. The stock lame. Luckily they did a pretty clean job of taking the stereo out, just a couple small gouges on each side. And I'm super lucky because my cell phone and billfold were in the glovebox and they didn't even touch that, nor anything else in the car.

    If anybody has had anything like this happen to them, is there any advice or suggestions you can give? I've already called my insurance company and they've got somebody coming to replace the glass and an adjuster to check out the damage. I figured I'd go get my car detailed after this to make sure the glass is gone but just was wondering if there was anything else I should do.

  • bluong1bluong1 Posts: 1,927
    I can't even believe someone wants to steal the stock unit. They probably thing it's an expensive one. Does the windows are tinted? If yes the insurance should take care for the cost.
  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    That is amazing. Who would steal a stock stereo, when you have to be able to ge them for almost free from people who have replaced them.

    I can't believe there is a huge black market for stock Mazda radios.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    But it sounds like they did a clean job of it.

    Sorry to hear about your damage.

    It's probably someone else with a P5 too cheap to get one off eBay.
  • icvciicvci Posts: 1,031
    No matter what the insurance company tells you, go where you want to have it done. I had a stereo stolen before and was duped into using the installer my insurance (AAA) recommended, they sucked.

    Stock head units are so expensive. I'd ask the insurance company to send you a check for replacement. Then, have a different (and better) unit installed.

    Consider yourself lucky, when I had mine stolen it snowed 6 inches, in my car.
  • Thanks for everybody's commiseration. No, the windows weren't tinted, so it'll be a quick and tidy replacement whenever the guy gets here today.

    Unfortunately I found out that my comprehensive deductible is too high ($500) to make it worth claiming the stereo, so I'm going with just the glass coverage ($100 deduct.).

    So unless somebody can point me towards a person who wants to cheaply sell me their stock stereo, I'll probably be checking out what they've got at Best Buy. Unfortunately the thief left a huge gaping hole because they took everything from that area and I'll need to figure out something to cover up the lower section where a new stereo wouldn't cover. Are there blank plastic pieces for that?

  • riopelleriopelle Posts: 132
    My moonroof has been taken apart for the rattle issue three times - apparently the inside door kept coming off its slide rail. It was adjusted, lubed, who knows what else, and still has a slight resonance sometimes when open but is basically fine. I usually have it shut anyway. Next time the shop said they'll replace the entire fixture - they've been really good about it. Hope this helps.
  • pciskowskipciskowski Posts: 155
    I'll sell you mine! Then I could justify the new one that I want. Just email me at the address in my profile if you are interested.

    Maybe you will be lucky like my friend in high school. He had a car stereo that was so bad that after 3 days the thief brought it back and left it on his porch.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    ...kind of how they left my '89 323LX's stereo alone when they broke into practically every other car parked outside on my street one night.

    Then again, at least I didn't have my car busted. I was still a little insulted. :p
  • icvciicvci Posts: 1,031
    Unfortunately I found out that my comprehensive deductible is too high ($500) to make it worth claiming the stereo, so I'm going with just the glass coverage ($100 deduct.).

    I was thinking about your situation on the way in to work today. I don't get it. Your glass alone will run you close to $500, especially if you go with factory stuff. Then factor in your stereo and installation and I don't see how you're not well over $500. Plus the detailing you talked about.

    Seems to me insurance is the way to go.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    If you have any insights to share on the Protege5 vs. Matrix XRS vs. 2.5TS Impreza vs. PT Cruiser, please join us in this new discussion. Perhaps you can help thenebean9 make a decision. Thanks for your participation.

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • Oh no, the glass was only $161, installed by Safelite. The stereo is going to cost under $200 if I go with something from Best Buy when they've got one of their free installation deals. The detailing though, that's my own choice and I don't think that would be covered.

  • icvciicvci Posts: 1,031
    Safelite is the cheapest, it's not factory glass. If you want to replace your factory stereo with a factory stereo, it will run you at least $432.00 plus shipping.

    Are you sure your deductible for comprehensive loss is $500? It's not the same thing as your broad collision deductible. If it is $500, I'd look in to lowering it. If there isn't anything in your car over worth over $500 why carry insurance with a deductible of $500? I suppose airbags are worth more. From what I remember, going from a $500 to a $100 deductible on comprehensive loss isn't that much more money. And it would have paid for itself right about now.

    Just a thought. Good luck.
  • icvciicvci Posts: 1,031
    FYI most of the time, it's not free. To get things to look how they should, you have to buy filler trim and harnesses.

    If you want it to look like it did, go to a good shop with professional installers.
  • bluong1bluong1 Posts: 1,927
    The 2003 half year sale is up +10% world wide. Most amazing gain is +34% sale in Europe. Shame for North America, it's the only market that doesn't contribute anything to the good overall result.
  • icvciicvci Posts: 1,031
    Mazda has cut way back on rental deliveries in N.A.. So the numbers aren't quite as bad as they look.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    It is really too bad. I would much rather rent a Protege5 or even an MPV when I travel than some Focus or Windstar.
  • icvciicvci Posts: 1,031
    Kill your resale value. It's a good move for Mazda to make.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    I remember when I get a good rental vehicle. Can make for good word-of-mouth press.

    But they do lower resale value, so I can see that. And why do it if you're selling them all anyway? Of course, I think a few Mazda6i AT will find their ways into fleets. Good car still.
  • icvciicvci Posts: 1,031
    I think a few Mazda6i AT will find their ways into fleets.

    As long as the numbers don't come anywhere near those of the 626.
  • I finally decided to sell my '91 VW, and purchased my first new car - a "base model" Protege5, which isn't very "base" at all! It's comparably equipped to other cars I was looking at with options. The only thing I didn't get (which I already regret) is the ABS/airbags. I didn't get it because my dealer was offering a great deal on this car only - $2500 off PLUS 0% financing for 60 months.

    Anyway, it's a 2003, black mica, and didn't come with the roofrack (is that normal now?) I've gotten nothing but positive comments on it so far.

    Not much else to say except that I really appreciate these boards and all of you wonderful people on it - I read many of your comments both before and after my purchase, and have learned a lot. In fact, I think I may be suffering from too much pressure in my tires now that I have read of others' experiences with it, and am going to investigate it tonight.

    Thanks for everything. I'll keep you updated.

  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586

    My PRO ES came w/40-42 PSi in the tires when I got it and I thought the car rode worse than my prev 93 Civic HB - until I looked at the tire pressure. So much for paying the mandatory PDI fee...

  • To piggyback on my last post, I just purchased a new P5. I am quite happy with it, but noticed how rough the ride is. I assumed it all had to do with the sport suspension, but now I think my tires may be overinflated, as well. I have seen several contradicotry posts about what PSI one should have them at - some arguing to go with manufacturer's recommendation, others stating to go by the recommendation printed on the tires. What have you all done, and how has it altered your ride/MPG/tires, etc?

    Thanks so much,


    black mica, AT, base model other than that (131 miles!)
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    If you want a good setup: F-34/R-32 (more on the front to take out the weight from the engine - the PRO has a 60/40 weight ratio)

    If you want the "standard" setup: F-32/R-32

    If you want the mushy setup: F-30/R-30 (if you end-up biting your tongue too often while riding in the P5)

    I sometimes run F34/R32, but more often than not I have 32/32 on the PRO.

  • bluong1bluong1 Posts: 1,927
    Internet is great but sometime you could run across some very bad informations too.

    The markage on the tire is the maximum pressure it can handle. Never inflate your tire close to this number, it's a serious question of life or death here. More death than life in this case I would say.

    Take the instruction of car manufacturer as guide line. Dinu resume pretty well.

    - Mazda recommends 32/32
    - Increase a little bit the front tires will limit the natural understeer tendency of an FWD car.
    - When I was in Houston, one of the big driving hazard is hydroplaning. This happens when the pressure of the build up water in front of the tire becomes greater than the pressure of the tire. The car loss the contact with the road and I don't need to describe the rest (I have seen a nasty one happens just in front of me, the nice Lexus just spins like Mickey on ice). Thus increasing the tire pressure is a way to go, in any case underinflated tires are very risky.
    - On the dry road, breaking is more efficient at lower pressure. But the reverse happens in the wet road.
    - Tire wear decreases and fuel economy increases when the pressure is higher.
    - Car as well as human bodies suffer if one run the car with harsh tires. If you decide to inflate above 40psi, don't complain then that your car have rattle everywhere after a year of ownership.

    I set my tires 34/32 most of the time.

  • smashersmasher Posts: 31
    I know the factory specs on the P5 are 32/32.

    Don't go with the sidewall rating. Get at least within a couple of PSI of the factory specs.

    Here's my theory (and I'm not an automotive engineer): Tire pressure specs have nearly everything to do with the loads on the tires on that car (weight, expected use, etc.). Different pressures are spec'ed based on what load the tires are carrying. So a tire of a given size (say 195/50-16) will need to be spec'ed at different pressures depending on which car it's mounted on. A slightly heavier load will require a higher pressure than a slightly lighter load. The more weight, the more PSI needed in the tire to compensate. I'm assuming the specs are based on average weight (including fuel and driver/passenger), to get the best possible compromise of ride, handling, fuel economy and tread wear at all loads (empty and full). Adjust to compensate.

    I don't know if the factory spec depends on OEM rubber; probably not, because there are probably industry-wide standards regarding stuff like sidewall stiffness and so on. (There's probably an ISO or ANSI spec somewhere dictating all this.)

    (Oh: Google search: "Tire Industry Association".)

    My old Integra was spec'ed at (IIRC) 28/28. I'm assuming that's because it was a light car for its tires. On a heavier car (say, another 200 lbs or so), the same tire size may be spec'ed at 32/32. The oil-change shop always defaulted to 32/32 in its checklist, though I doubt they ever checked the pressure, and they probably never looked up the factory specs for my car, either. I've often heard 32/32 used as a rule of thumb, as the "default" proper tire inflation. But it's wrong; start with the factory specs, and adjust depending on driving style, road conditions and loads.

    Any tire engineers out there? Anyone know for sure?

    (Obviously, the best practice to stop every ten miles to readjust tire pressure according to current driving conditions, loads, and mood. So be sure to bring a pump with you at all times.)
  • Thanks for your reply. I'm assuming you have the factory tires, and I was wondering how your gas mileage and ride is on your Pro5 (Thanks to others who responded, as well, but Dinu mentioned that he had a Pro5, so, since we have the same car, I wanted to compare.)

    I love this board!

  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    As one of my high school teachers useed to say: Don't assume anything.

    1. I have a 2001 PRO ES sedan - the Canadian version on top of that since I'm in Toronto

    2. I had the stock 195/55/R15 Bridgestone Potenzas but after less than 20.000 miles it became dangerous to drive on them and had to buy new tires last summer - I now have 195/60/15 Yokohamas AVIS Touring and just like with the Poortenzas, I use 34/32 for long trips and 32/32 for city driving.

    3. As for mileage I've usually get 8.5-9.5 l/100kms in the city and 7.5-8.0 l/100 kms for highway use => don't know the conversion to mpg (:

    4. It would be wise to discuss this with "REAL" P5 owners :) - not that I'm a fake, but you get the point :)

  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I get almost exactly the EPA ratings of 25/30 for my 2003 AT Protege5.
This discussion has been closed.