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Mazda Protege5



  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Anyone interested in comparing notes on car care?
    2002 P5 w/64k.
    1. How often do you wash and how often do you wax your car?
    2. How often do you clean / detail the interior including your CD unit?
    Weekly. Don't clean the CD unit.
    3. How often do you check the following: a) oil; b) other fluids; c) tire pressure?
    Not often enough. Probably every couple of weeks.
    4. Do you do anything special regarding winter care? For example, do you use a) winter tires; b) gasline antifreeze, or c) block heater?
    5. How long do the following typically last:
    a) wipers;
    Twice a year.
    b) battery;
    Original replaced last month at around 60k.
    c) thermostat;
    Original I think. Might have been replaced at 60k service.
    d) tires;
    Originals replaced last summer at around 50k. Don't ask me why the Dunlops lasted so long.
    e) brake pads;
    Originals are still good. Will need to replace them probably within the next 10k or so.
    f) brake rotors?
    Orignals, but fronts will probably need to be replaced when the pads are done. The fronts have already been resurfaced once.

    Conclusion. A great car. Very reliable. Would recommend the P5 to anyone.
  • 2002.5 P5 with 65K miles. it's my daily-driver for a 90+ mile round trip daily commute.

    1. How often do you wash and how often do you wax your car?

    once a month, if that. basically, whenever I can't see out of the side windows due to dust buildup, I'll wash the car.

    2. How often do you clean / detail the interior including your CD unit?

    see reply to #1.

    3. How often do you check the following: a) oil; b) other fluids; c) tire pressure?

    oil: every other fillup
    fluids: hardly
    tire pressure: constantly

    4. Do you do anything special regarding winter care? For example, do you use a) winter tires; b) gasline antifreeze, or c) block heater?

    what's winter? (I live in Southern California)

    5. How long do the following typically last: a) wipers; b) battery; c) thermostat; d) tires; e) brake pads; f) brake rotors?

    wipers: replaced all ONCE
    battery: still on original
    thermostat: still on original
    tires: swapped Dunlops with Bridgestone RE750's at @18K miles
    brake pads: still on original
    brake rotors: still on original

    with the exception of my front door locks 'sticking' intermittently, the car has been trouble-free and in all honesty, drives better than before.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Interesting comments. Here are some for my 2002 P5 (65K km / 40K miles)

    1. How often do you wash and how often do you wax your car?
    - Monthly for the wash; every second month for the waxing.

    2. How often do you clean / detail the interior including your CD unit?
    - Monthly. Don't clean the CD unit. My New Year's Resolution is to figure out how to clean the CD unit.

    3. How often do you check the following:
    a) oil: Hardly ever
    b) other fluids: Hardly ever
    c) tire pressure: Biweekly.
    My New Year's Resolution is to do all these biweekly.

    4. Do you do anything special regarding winter care? For example, do you use
    a) winter tires: yes
    b) gasline antifreeze: yes
    c) block heater: no

    5. How long do the following typically last:
    a) wipers: 18 to 24 months
    b) battery: using original with 40K miles (65K km); plan to replace at 50K miles
    c) thermostat: using original with 40K miles (65K km)
    d) tires: replaced with BF Goodrich at 28K miles (45K km)
    e) brake pads: using original with 40K miles (65K km); hope to last for another 10K miles or more
    f) brake rotors: using original with 40K miles (65K km); hope to last for another 10K miles or more

    So far the P5 has been a reliable fun-to-drive wonder.
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Forgot the wax part. Probably every 3 months or so.
  • ripcordripcord Posts: 23
    I installed Silverstars on my 02 P5 and the first one blew out in 3 months. I had the receipt and took it back to take advantage of the one year warranty at Canadian Tire. I have my fingers crossed but after looking at a few posts, I am concerned.
  • ripcordripcord Posts: 23
    Thanks, I opted for the Nordic Icetrac's. On both my P5's, I have Icetrac's on the front, and Firestone Winterfires on the back. What a difference having the ice tires on the car. No ABS coming on at each stop sign, I love them for handling too. Now all we need is some snow in good ole Bruce County (where the snow blows horizontal)
  • SporinSporin Posts: 1,066
    I've gone through quite a few low beam bulbs on my P5 in it's 94k miles. I'm on my 3rd D-side and my 2nd P-side if I remember correctly, it might actually be more.

    No moisture in housing. Still on the OE high beams. No DRL's here either.
  • SporinSporin Posts: 1,066
    My P5 is nearing 100k and just about paid off. I'm due for a timing belt change, my front struts are leaking and the back seems a bit saggy. (We're larger then average folks and frequently have the car loaded right up for camping and traveling.) The brakes are sure to be due again soon as it's been nearly 50k since I did the backs, and 30k since I did the fronts.

    My issue is that I don't know if I want to dump a big chunk of money into her if I'm not going to keep it. Our family has outgrown it and we think we'd like to move up to something a bit bigger like the new RAV4, upcoming Mazda CX-7, Mazda6 Wagon, or perhaps a midsize sedan or wagon.

    Thoughts? I did the brakes myself and it cost less then $100 per end with new rotors. How much have folks paid for the Tbelt change?? What am I looking at for struts all around?
  • Yes, definitely talking about headlight bulbs - not indicators. Since I was a kid my dad would always tell me to never touch the glass of a halogen bulb, so I'm very careful about that. Also, I just use the cheapest bulbs Canadian Tire can offer - nothing fancy. Considering how many other people have complained about this issue I would say that the Protege5 has a clear weakness in this area.
  • 2002 Protege5 - 92,000 kms

    1. How often do you wash and how often do you wax your car?
    Wash once every two weeks or so (DIY drive-in). Wax a couple of times a year - spring and fall

    2. How often do you clean / detail the interior including your CD unit?
    Once a year.

    3. How often do you check the following: a) oil; b) other fluids; c) tire pressure?
    Oil - Once in a while, especially before going on a longer road trip.

    Other fluids - same

    Tire pressure - almost every day - I'm religious about my tires!

    4. Do you do anything special regarding winter care? For example, do you use a) winter tires; b) gasline antifreeze, or c) block heater?
    No on all counts. Have a block heater, but currently don't need it since I live in high-rise with underground parking.

    5. How long do the following typically last: a) wipers; b) battery; c) thermostat; d) tires; e) brake pads; f) brake rotors?
    Wipers - 1-2 years. Typically change driver's side more often.
    Battery - still on original - no problems.
    Thermostat - same
    Tires - Just changed to new all-seasons. Original Dunlops lasted 90,000 kms.
    Brake pads and rotors - Original front pads and rotors lasted almost 90,000 kms. Changed two months ago. Rears were changed at around 20,000 kms after rear calipers got stuck. Bloody Ford parts! Only serious issue with the Protege5.

    Resolution? Wash inside of car more often and change trans oil at least once a year. This car will last forever - I'll never sell it!
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Ummm... just paid it off and you want another car payment?

    Don't think you're going to find many p5 owners who have changed the timing belt or struts yet. Mazda parts are kind of expensive. Check with your independent mechanic for a ballpark (parts and labor).

    Ask Terry on Edmunds Real World Trade in Values what your car is worth. Maybe $7.5 - $8k private sale.

    Personally, I'd put some $$ into maintenance, and keep the car for at least another 50k or so. P5 should last for another 100k or so, with no big issues. We are talking about a VERY reliable car here. I've got two teenage daughters, and the four of us do fine. Bought a Yakima Loadwarrior for the rack. Plastic bins on top. Works great on trips.
  • isseyvooisseyvoo Posts: 121
    I believe the timing belt change ran about $600 and change for us as part of a so-called 60K mi. service that totaled over $1,000.
  • SporinSporin Posts: 1,066
    The P5 has been great, but my boy's feet are firmly planted in my seatback and he'll be in a car seat for a few more years. More importantly, we are at a point with the grandparents that we HAVE to have room in the back for 2 adults PLUS the kid seat on a very regular basis. That just doesn't work in the P5.

    If neither of those factors existed, we'd be HAPPY to spend whatever and keep it for a while longer, but I just can't see dumping a grand or more into it when it really doesn't fit our needs anymore.
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Non-dealer prices will be a LOT less. Struts will be expensive though. Other maintenance is pretty straight-forward.

    Trade will be low, with the things you've mentioned. Lot's of reconditioning for the dealer. Better to sell it private party.

    Might want to take a look at the new Mazda 5. Seen the base stick going for about $15k.
  • SporinSporin Posts: 1,066
    Thanks for the basic maintenance numbers. I'll hit up my repair guy for more spcifics. I don't want to clutter this topic with "What next car for me" posts.

  • with all the money you have invested in the car, you should spend the xtra $$ and have it maintained correctly at a dealer.....dont take chances with outside independents
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Interesting perspective. Never heard that one before.

    I like things DONE RIGHT, the 1st time. My trusted independent hasn't screwed up like the dealer has, + they only do what NEEDS DOING and don't add profit fluff. I have NEVER had a good experience at a dealer, except oil changes. I don't like to waste $$$, so I'll stick with my trusted independent.
  • thats nice that you have a trusted independent. No need for the sarcasm though. It is my experience though, that certain independents occasionally are unable to do certain jobs corrrectly, and the owner pays twice after bringing the car to me to have it fixed right. Dealerhip experiences can be frustrating, but not all dealers are out to steal your money. I personally have a large base of loyal customers that come ONLY to me to have their cars fixed. Sorry that you cant find the same at your local. When Joe Public brings his protege5 in for a routine oil change at independent, did that ind notice that the A/C light didnt stay on all the time on fan speed 2 and replace the control head under warranty even after the car was out of the 3-4/50 warranty? Just an example of what I do for my customers. On behalf of Mazda North America, I apologize that you have NEVER had a good experience at the dealership.
  • Sorry to say this, Eric, but you're one in a million. In my experience, most dealerships are run like ruthless businesses. They have no interest in doing warranty repairs - certainly not AFTER the warranty has expired! If you leave your car with them for five minutes you can rest assured that you will end up with a nice long (and expensive!) laundry list of items that they recommend you repair. Also, do not expect them to get the job done right.

    I paid more than $300 to have my rear brakes replaced after less than a year. The brakes had overheated after hanging because of buildup of dirt. Not covered by warranty. This is a well known Protege5 weakness. When I had my independent look at it, he pointed out to me that the dealership had not lubricated the sliding pins. Most likely I would have had to go back there the year after to have my brakes replaced again. I guess this is how they retain their customers - get things to break so that they will keep coming back again and again and again...!

    Eric, I'm sure you are an exception, but to me there is an inherent conflict of interest in letting a dealership take care of maintenance. They will lose money by pointing out needed warranty repairs (Mazda pays them less than what they can charge a customer), so many of them wait until the warranty has expired. Some have understood that customer retention can not be built this way, but I am not making the gamble that I might have found such a dealer. Instead I take it to my trusted indie who charges less and has never recommended unnedded repairs.
  • not sure whom you are addressing, but I think it was my post and I am not eric. My name is Dan and I am a mazda tech of 18+ years. As far as dealer that would not warranty a known brake failure and blame it on "dirt buildup" is a shame. My own personal protege5 that I recently purchased with over 200k miles had the same issue you are referring to with the rear brakes. When I looked at the warranty history in my computer, mazda had taken care of the problem while the car had OVER 100k on it. I am not saying it is typical, but one shouldnt be so closeminded about dealerships. My goal is never to sell something that is not needed, but to repair correctly what is needed. Not expecting the dealer to get the job done right is a little harsh, and the human element is present at ALL places of business.
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    I'm Eric... and it's not just Mazda dealerships that I've had bad experiences at... I'd include Subaru and Nissan too. Warranty and non-warranty work.

    Look, I've had bad experiences at independents too. There are good techs and service advisors at dealerships, and bad too. Unfortunately, most of my experiences at dealerships have been frustrating. I'm pretty knowledgeable about cars. I don't pretend to be a mechanic, but I am pretty good about maintaining them. Look, I know what needs doing and I get ticked when the service folks push unnessary items. I've also had problems getting things fixed right at the dealer... simple stuff. Now, I've had independents do the same thing... push unnessary service and screw up. The key is finding someone you trust.

    If you have a good dealer you trust... GREAT. If you have a good independent you trust... GREAT too. I think the reality though... You're going to find more independents who charge a reasonable price, don't push unnessary service and don't screw up. My advise, ask around with friends who have the same make car. Maybe there is a good dealer, or maybe the best choice is an independent.
  • SporinSporin Posts: 1,066
    FYI, the Mazda dealer in Concord, NH (the closest to me) REFUSED to do cover the sticky, overworn rear brakes even when presented with evidence that this was a known issue. They wanted $400 to fix it and this was IN warranty. :mad:

    I did it myself and make a pint to lube the pivot points up when I change the wheels twice a year.

    That is the one and only time my car has been to a dealer. I have a trusted local mechanic for work I can't do myself.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    Kings Mazda/Suzuki has treated me well. Jake Sweeney has improved to the point where I'd use them. They were good when I first moved here, then they tanked for several years. I hear good stuff about Jeff Wyler, but I won't drive that far for service.

    I've had questionable or bad service done by some independents, and some OK work too. They may have to learn a bit, depending on whether they've worked on Proteges before (one ordered the wrong coil springs for my '89 323LX when I had the struts and springs changed - couple years later, one of the techs got himself a '00 Protege, so he probably knew how to work on them, but I never went back). One independent that a good friend recommended did a hack job on my brakes. They totally beat-up the rear drum covers.

    I do stuff like change oil, air filter, battery, light bulbs, wheel rotations, spark plugs & wires etc. For stuff that takes more time, or I can't responsibly dispose of fluids (like timing belt, brakes, coolant), I have the dealership service department do. Just a personal preference.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Just wanted to chime in and agree that we should question services provided by either dealers or independents. Since dealers have technicians that work on the same line of cars for years you would think they would have the most expertise to handle yours. On the other hand, independents are noted for providing services at less cost and without being beholden to protecting the manufacturer's reputation. The problems I've noticed is that if the management of either the dealership or the independent does not make customer loyalty its top priority, they end up treating us as a transaction that should be maximized by suggesting additional services whether they be necessary or not. The truly unscrupulous perform services at a substandard level or overcharge or charge for services not rendered. So does that mean all dealers and independents are part of demonic cabals out to rip your credit card out of your wallet? In an annual test using hidden cameras and bait vehicles, an auto consumer group (Automobile Protection Association) and a TV network has found that neither dealers nor independents are immune to these practices; the good news is they found trustworthy firms also. In sum, the only guarantee of good customer service is based on due diligence, some neighbourly advice and rewarding those with the right attitude to their customers. As we all know the lowest price is not always the best value.
  • Some great points are being made here, and I'm glad to see that Mazda owners are a level headed bunch! :)

    There are crooks in all kinds of industries, and our job as consumers is to take due diligence to avoid being ripped off. As has already been mentioned, this would include asking friends, family, and neighbours, checking Internet forums, questioning mechanics and inspecting work that has been done. Now, what must be said though is that those of us that partcipate in these discussions are probably less likely to be ripped off. We are mostly careful about shopping around, and we come in here to share our experiences. The average car owner on the other hand doesn't take the time to chack dozens of Internet sites and do lots of research before having a repair job done in order to check for a reputable shop to go to or find out whether an item should be covered under warranty. They will often rely on the shop where they bought the car, and thus set themselves up to be the victim of ruthless business practices. I'm not saying this happens all the time, as I'm sure there are lots of good dealers out there. But without prior knowledge it is easy to get sucked in by a dealer's warnings that taking your car elsewhere might not get your car repaired properly and might void your warranty.

    In my experience a dealer will always be more expensive when performing service and doing repairs. At the same time, I have never really seen anything that justifies the higher price. The quality of work is a gamble as it is no matter where you take the car, and all the extras they claim to perform (20-point inspections etc.) you can easily do yourself for free.

    Based on my own reasoning and experience I have come to the conclusion that dealerships will never be allowed to service my cars. However, I completely understand that other people might feel differently, and I'm sure there are lots of excellent dealerships out there. It's a matter of personal preference and comfort level, but just make sure you do your homework before deciding who gets to tinker with your baby! :)
  • Sorry about the Eric confusion earlier. I guess I responded to the wrong post!
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Very well spoken, well written. I agree, although I will use a dealer for some services where they are price competitive (like oil changes with coupons), and refuse the extras they push. Dealers can be more convienent than independents, such as drop-in oil changes.

    To be fair to dealers, the franchise 20-minute oil change places can be even worse when it comes to pushing unneeded parts and service. At least the service tech at the dealer has changed the oil on that make of car, and usually knows what they are doing.
  • ...and walked out with a $500 bill for the following:

    - 'lifetime' F/R pads
    - resurfacing of F/R rotors
    - brake system flush

    $500 is a pretty atrocious bill for a complete brake job, but the fact that the dealer offered a lifetime warranty (for the life of the vehicle) on the pads kind of sealed the deal for me...since from other experience with other vehicles (BMW, Mitsubishi, and Nissan), OEM pads don't last this long (original pads on the P5 lasted for almost 65K miles).

    most specifically, my wife's 2000 Nissan Maxima has had brake problems since day one and the dealers that we've taken the car to never seem to solve the problem and only offer a limited warranty for their parts and labor.

    Heritage Mazda in Tustin, CA may have cost me $500 for a complete brake job, but the peace of mind in knowing that the local MOCC (Mazda Owners' Club of California) recommended the dealer for service AND the lifetime warranty on the pads made the $500 worth it.

    I've performed all routine maintenance on the Protege5 myself but took it to two different independent service shops for the 30K and 60K service. I didn't have a bad experience with either of the independents, and surprisingly, I didn't have a bad experience with Heritage Mazda. They even gave me a rental car for free since they were out of loaner cars.

    Anyway, that's my two cents. Ask around and get opinions from local patrons before you dismiss the Mazda dealer for service. if I could only say the same for Nissan dealers for service...
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Same as Midas or many of the other big chains... lifetime warranty on the parts, but you pay the labor. My independent will resurface the rotors for free. I'll let you all know the total for my next brake job, which will include new rotors. It won't be what the dealers in this area charge.
  • New to this board. Very happy new owner of a 2003 MP5, 44K, manual, black. Being a novice however, I didn't realize that the car came with low profile tires/wheels (bought from dealer). I believe what I have on their are 205/35/18 Dunlop Sport tires on Enkei wheels. I think both the wheels & tires are very expenseive but very much not appropriate for my driving needs so I need to replace them with more standard tires/wheels. Based on board discussions, I have some good options to choose from - but it's going to cost me! Anyone know the best forumn to sell these tires/rims I currently have. The tires appear new, the wheels/rims a little bit scuffed but very nice looking. Who would be the market for these? (young racers living in AZ or CA?) Any idea what a decent asking price is? Thanks for any advice.
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