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Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance



  • dweston2dweston2 Posts: 1
    My 2001 Aurora will seldom, and at random times, shift with rough jerks. To correct this, I stop, shut off the ignition, wait perhaps a minute, restart the car and all is ok. The dealer changed a part once (what one ?) but this didn't correct the situation. This happens very seldom, but is disconcerting.
  • Blk97Aurora, Glad to hear your low pressure problem is gone.

    Hello everyone. My 97 Aurora's display reads "low oil pressure" along with a chime when the weather is over 85 degrees. Winter time there hasn't been a problem.

    My temp gauge goes above the mid-point after driving for about 20 minutes. Then when I stop at a light I receive the low oil pressure signal.

    Anyway. my question is this. I see alot of talk about the sending unit. Has any one had this problem with a consistant cure?

    Another site was telling me to over fill my engine with oil and rev it while in neutral.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573

    Over-filling any engine is bad advice, PERIOD. It may stop the symptom temporarily, but can cause additional problems.

    How many miles on your '97? What oil viscosity are you running? GM's recommendation is 10W-30. Stay away from 5W (except maybe in cold weather). I use 15w-50 Mobil 1 in the summer to try to reduce oil consumption; as the weather cools, I switch to 10W-30.

    I don't understand what you mean by, "I see alot of talk about the sending unit. Has any one had this problem with a consistant cure?"

    I have been monitoring this Aurora board and another for 5-6 years, and I do not remember ever seeing a post about a failed oil pump.

    Hope this helps.

  • carhammcarhamm Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Aurora that needs a new oil pan. Does anyone know of a repair shop in the Dallas, TX area (Richardson)that would be fairly reasonable. The quotes I have gotten so far are anywhere from $900 to $1200. I do not have a lot of money to spend, but I am still making payments on the car and want to try to keep it. It is also making a clanking noise, maybe a belt??? Has anyone else had problems like this? Thanks for any help that you can give me! :sick:
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    Why does your oil pan need to be replaced?

    Belts don't usually clank.

    Is the pan dented so that the crankshaft is hitting it? That would clank.

  • carhammcarhamm Posts: 2
    Les--Apparently, from what I have been told, there is a crack in the oil pan. I am wondering if it could just be welded or something, but three different places have told me the whole pan needs to be replaced. It drips continuously. Maybe the crankshaft is hitting the pan. It just started making that noise, and I'm afraid to drive it. It is actually my 19-year-old son's car. I am a single mom just trying to keep that car for a while until I can figure something else out. He has a job and is going to school, and we are down to one car now, mine! Do you think it is worth getting fixed? I have already had to have the transmission replaced and recently, the water pump. It is very expensive to get the car fixed, but I don't really think I can afford another car payment!

    Carmen... :cry:
  • ok, I was calling it unit but in your post you use the term switch.

    I use 10W-30 Synthetic blend from my service shop.

    My car has 120,000 miles.

    Sseveral post recommended the Oil Pressure sending switch be replaced for a Low Oil Pressure warning. Stating that the car was fine but possbile the switch had went bad.

    blk97aurora, "Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance" #421, 2 May 2006 10:26 am

    Your post said the switch looks like a roll of quarters. so did that solve the problem of the low oil pressure warnings


    "My 97 Aurora's display reads "low oil pressure" along with a chime when the weather is over 75/85 degrees. Winter time there hasn't been a problem.

    My temp gauge goes above the mid-point after driving for about 20 minutes. Then when I stop at a light I receive the low oil pressure signal."
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    Yes. That's what "goodbye low oil-pressure readings" meant.

    The unit is both a sender and a switch. It is a sender because it presents a variable resistance for the gauge which is translated by the PCM as a pressure reading. It is a switch because if oil pressure drops to zero, the switch will open the circuit that supplies voltage to the fuel pump, thus stopping it. This is a safety feature. There is a by-pass that allows the fuel pump to run while cranking the engine before oil pressure is high enough to close the switch.

    Hope this helps.

  • Thanks you BLK97,

    Do you know if your temp gauge would rise some before your "low oil pressure" messsage would display/chime as you would stop at a light?
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    I never received a low oil pressure message. My concern was that the oil pressure indication in the DIC would go as low as 7 psi. According to the service manual, the low limit is 5 psi; 7 was too close for my comfort. The warning message turns on at 4 psi and lower.

    I have never seen a rapid drop in oil pressure due to rise in temp. When starting up after sitting overnight, the oil pressure is in the 70-80 psi range depending on engine rpm. Then pressure drops gradually as temp goes up.

  • jesse01jesse01 Posts: 3
    My onboard computer reads RPM---,and the oil light remains on, even after getting the oil changed. Are these two items related. I have had this problem for over a year. The car runs fine, but I smell oil burning all time. Could anyone help me.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    By the way, I had my rusting break lines replaced. IT was not the fuel lines. I made a mistake.

  • phil95phil95 Posts: 30
    I just read a message but didn't see an answer. I would like to drain the radiator and refill with dex-cool. but I don't want a power flush (97k) I'm not looking for trouble. I. do have to remove the air low cover to get at the radiator petcock? and 2. is there enough room for what? 3 gallons of mix. and would you run it hot with a garden hose stuck in the overflow of just empty the radiator. Been a long time since I did a flush. I'm only good too -10 I live in Illinois should -30 of -40 to cool properly. and it has Zerex in it. I'm retired and haven't done a flush since my teens.I'm retired. I have newer cars and bought this autobahn as a hobby. I have always loved them and found this an older gent local who wanted a flexfuel car.This car is like new. when I bought it the only things wrong where a cup holder flapper (junk yard) and I had to re-dye the shifter. But I noticed it had carquest radiator hoses and the wrong coolant. The old man had a fast oil change place fix it. Winter comes up fast here. And I still want to put a new battery in it. Otherwish I had my mecanic go over the whole car and knock on wood he can't find any problems or error codes.
    I'm a streetrodder I have '40 Ford Deluxe 350 chevy ,305 turbo hydro ,mustang front end. It has electric windows ,air, all shaved, all eletric doors and trunk. Took many trophys. the reason I mention this is it's normally aspirated and doestn't have 100 miles of wires in it like the Olds. It's a striaght forward custom. that I can't drive in the winter. so I took on the Olds figuring it's halfway to a hotrod with some luxrury I can tool around in. The Olds is Champaige no matter how much I buffed it , it 's still not what you call striking. Plenty of high grade wax but........well it's Champaigne. Anyway it's needs coolant and a battery. and you guys know the tricks.
  • About four weeks ago when the temperature in NJ went over 100 degrees, the headlights of my '97 starting going on and off when it was parked and turned off --> the ol' multi-function switch problem.

    I had this problem in 2000. I was fortunate to be able to demonstrate this intermittent problem to the service manager where I bought the car. They replaced the switch with 320 miles left on my 50,000 warranty ~$500.

    This time I fixed the problem myself as has been well documented -- electrical contact cleaner and canned air.

  • Yesterday after working on my Classic with the doors open and ignition switch turned to accessory for about 10 minutes, the battery went flat dead. Battery charger brought it back to life, but I know from previous experience that I need to replace the battery, especially with colder weather on the way.

    I cannot find a vented group 76 battery. ACDelco has a group 79 as does Autocraft; both are rated at 880 CCA. The original battery in our Classics was 970 CCA. I am also considering the Optima redtop group 34/78 which has a 800 CCA rating. My concern with both alternatives is losing either 9% or 18% respectively in CCA rating.

    Does anyone know of an available vented group 76 battery?

    Does anyone have experience with Optima redtop 34/78 or yellowtop D34/78?

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Hi Les,

    Per /battery_search.html

    when I entered 1998-1999 Olds Aurora (for me), or 1995-1997 (for you), both times it came out with nothing matching the vehicle specs.

    I would probably go with the AC Delco replacement regardless (as long as it is vented)... up until my GTO, I had good luck with AC Delco batteries, but the one in my GTO started leaking almost immediately, and I accidentally dropped it when taking to to my dealer. Picked up a Red Top and it's worked exceptionally well on the GTO (lots of GTO Delco battery problems - maybe from the boat ride from Oz?).

    I replaced mine in 2002, so I'm guessing this will probably be my last winter with my replacement battery...

  • Robert,

    Thanks for your reply. Yes, I saw the no match. When I called customer service to verify, the guy told me the 800 CCA Red Top would be OK since weather in NJ rarely gets as cold as 0 degrees. I'm not convinced. He suggested the deep-discharge Yellow Top. But I checked its specs, and it is rated at only 775 CCA.

    Did the stock mounting arrangement work OK with your Red Top? Cables?

  • I bought this 97 Aurora about 2 months ago. It was running
    fine until yesterday, when i switched on songs and kept cleaning my car. The battery went down. Jumpstart worked but
    for replacement i am not able to find the 76 series battery.

    Which battery can i buy to replace this one. All this is
    very much new to me. Somebody please help me with this. I have
    seen messages from 97blkaurora but i am not able to understand which battery was used. Please explain me clearly. I would be very much thankfull.

    best regards
  • Rajsekhar,

    Group 76 batteries are no longer made by anyone I could find. I replaced my Aurora battery with ACDelco 79-72 ($110 plus core plus tx at PepBoys). It is one inch shorter than the 76. Battery and cables fit fine but the original vent tubing is too long. I have ordered vent tube for '98-'99 Aurora which came with group 79 battery.

    Whatever you buy, be sure the battery is vented (or doesn't need venting like the Optima).

    Hope this helps.

  • Thanks Les, that surely helps me......
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Most third-party batteries aren't made for/don't fit in the Classic. Your best bet is to go to a Buick dealer (where I got mine when it died in 2002)... since the Riviera used a similar battery.

    List price was $129 in August/September of 2002, I think I paid $114. As long as my battery shows no sign of decline this winter, I will not replace it until next fall...
  • I would like to change the spark plugs on my 2002 Oldsmobile Aurora 3.5 litre gas engine. How do I go about it? I can't seem to locate the spark plugs.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    The spark plugs are right in the top of the cam covers. But there are no wires to them because the car uses coil-on-plug ignition. You'll have to remove the coil pack from each cam cover to reveal the spark plugs. I'd post a link to the aurora club of north america where there's a writeup of the swap, but I'm sure my reply would just get deleted, as Edmund's frowns on that.
  • The camshaft sensor on my 2000 or 2001 Aurora started acting up, causing unreliable starting. An auto mechanic removed the sensor and found a small metal chip on the face of it. A new sensor was installed and car operation returned to normal.

    My first question is: Where did that metal chip probably come from and what, if anything does it mean? Is there a big problem lurking ahead?

    Second, unrelated (I think) question: A lot of grease was found under the car near the right front wheel. It was on the framework and nearby items. If this grease came from the car, what is the most likely source? The mechanic removed most of this grease. I will return to the mechanic in a day or two and we will see whether more grease shows up, and if it does, try to find the source.

    Thanks for any info on these items.

    Regards, George
  • I bought my 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora about a year ago. I recently sold it and now I am stuck with the stock wheels. They are in great shape and I must get these things out of my barn!
    Name YOUR price!
    Please email me and let me know if you are interested.
  • georgex5georgex5 Posts: 4
    My Aurora says it is low on coolant. I can turn the coolant cap about a quarter turn and then it seems to grab or bind. Is it okay to force it open from there, or is there some trick?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Press down on it as you turn.
  • ahotrodahotrod Posts: 1
    My parents have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora with an odometer that apparently reads in kilometers, while the speedometer reads in mph. Is there a way to change the odometer to read in miles rather than km? My dad says he's looked through the manual and can find no information on this. Someone suggested that perhaps the car had been manufactured for Canada delivery (distance in km and speed in mph) and that there is no way to change the odometer reading to miles.

    Any thoughts/ideas would be appreciated.

  • My Check Engine light goes off and on. I just recently got the car and wondered what options I have. The car seems to be running great and the light does not stay on all the time. Any suggestions would be helpful.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573

    One or more of the national chains (like Autozone, PepBoys, etc.) will read the codes for you free. I have my own code scanner, so I haven't tried this and do not remember which companies. Check around.

This discussion has been closed.