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Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair



  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Check fuses. How do you know the speedometer works?
  • Hi, my mp5 2002 150,000km is doing exactly the same as yours did last April. Could you please tell me how it did get resolve? My Mazda dealer just called me today, June 29th, to tell me they don't know what is going on. I had the EGR valve replace 1 year ago, but since the Check Engine light doesn't come on, they say it is not the EGR valve this time.
    Thanks for your time.
  • aerosimaerosim Posts: 3
    Well, I've been avoidind the problem by not getting jammed in traffic when it's more than 25celcius outside... I will bring the car to the garage in a couple of weeks to change the timing belt and i will let know my garagist the problem. Hopefully, he is going to fix the problem (which I doubt) or I will keep avoiding heat trap. Anyway, since April, it didn't really occur again, but I wasn't jam in traffic for more than 15-20 minutes on hot days. I'll give you an update after my visit for the timing belt. In the meanwhile if someone find a solution, let me know.

  • 03p5owner03p5owner Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 P5 with a 4-speed sport mode automatic transmission. The transmission suddenly began operating strangely. When the gear selector is in "D" the dashboard indicator shows "M" for manual mode. The transmission does not upshift or downshift when in "D" now. When I place the gear selector in the manual mode position the dashboard indicator still shows "M" and the transmission shifts fine manually. I'm wondering what might cause the automatic mode to suddenly malfunction.
  • 1bandit1bandit Posts: 1
    I have a whine coming from somewhere that starts at about 30 MPH, the trans seems to be shifting ok. When I take it out of gear and coast it still makes the noise.
    Any suggestions? 83,000 miles
  • Are you sure it's coming from the engine? Is it definitely mechanical? Not old wiper blades for instance? Or something else more cosmetic.
  • Realized, I didn't thank you for the tip. Feel like a bone-head I didn't see the diagram but much thanks nonetheless!

  • 2002 Prot5 - 125k Odo.
    Car is overheating when it's warm outside and on the highway driving at 70+ for 20min. or up a long hill. When it's cool, low 60's, there doesn't seem to be a problem. Water pump, thermostat, and coolant flush were all done in the last 15k.

    I'm beginning to think we might have a small hole in the head gasket?
    Mazda dealer here wants $100 to do a compression test.

    Any opinions?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Car is overheating ... Mazda dealer here wants $100 to do a compression test.

    As in your temperature gauge needle goes up into the red? Do you get any other warning signals? How are your hoses to and from the radiator?

    The compression test may not be a bad idea if it helps locate the source of the problem.
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    I don't feel that a head gasket leak would cause your engine to overheat unless you were losing tremendous amounts of coolent in the process. Are you losing coolent? Does your oil look contaminated or are you seeing white clouds of vapor coming out of your exhaust? Those are things to look for with a head gasket failure. A partially blocked radiator could cause overheating. That can be difficult to diagnose though. And as autonomous mentioned, are you sure the car is overheating?
  • autonomous, iamz,

    >>As in your temperature gauge needle goes up into the red? Do you get any other >>warning signals?

    This is purely judging the temperature gauge needle goes up. No other warning signals - no engine light. (We've joked, it's probably the gauge.) How else can we or a mechanic test this?

    We don't appear to be losing much coolant. It's not being eaten like I've heard tends to go hand-in-hand with head gaskets.

    There doesn't appear to be any coolant in the oil -- Looking for white film around the oil cap as well as smelling cap and dip stick.

    >>How are your hoses to and from the radiator?
    No idea, what should I look for, cracking? Bad connections? Anything specific?

    I'll look for the vapor out the exhaust, but nothing has seemed out of the ordinary.

    Partially, blocked radiator... hmm. There does appear to be radiator gunk in the coolant reservoir. Maybe another coolant flush would unblock things?

    Appreciate the replies. Let's keep this going if you guys have time.
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Sadly, coolant flushes can sometimes cause a partially blocked radiator. If there was any gunk anywhere in the cooling system prior to your first flush, it might have come loose and lodged itself in the radiator. If thats the case, they could try flushing it out in the reverse flow of the original flush. I personally would never do an actual flush. Just a drain and fill.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    >>How are your hoses to and from the radiator?
    No idea, what should I look for, cracking? Bad connections? Anything specific?

    Yes, checking for cracks is good; you may want to get a hand held mirror and flashlight to help see around tight spots. Also, I check to see if they feel solid and not mushy and check at the ends to ensure they are securely fastened and are not leaking fluid.
  • Hmph -- so the coolant flush 15k miles ago could very be what got us into this mess...

    Hoses will be checked.
    So my choices are to simply drain the system hoping the gunk will find it's way out, or reverse flush the system which could cause more gunk to loosen. Worse case with the gunk issue is we replace the radiator and hoses, yes? I see a replacement aluminum core Protege5 radiator runs around $150.

    Thank you guys. Appreciate the kind support and advice. I will let you know what I discover.
  • Checked hoses last night. Didn't see anything to be worrisome. Still soft, no decay or cracking. Coolant level is still okay. We may be losing a little but nothing shocking. I did find something else though...

    Drove home from work - 43mi - parked in the driveway, turned off the car. The coolant reservoir was boiling and the radiator fan was NOT running. I turned the car back on and the fan still didn't kick on. The engine room was obviously quite hot after the drive.

    Could the fan or related be the issue? After shut off shouldn't this fan kick on using battery power to cool the engine? I wonder if it's not kicking on during driving either.
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    If the fan is not coming on, that could easily be your problem. Check the fuse that operates the fan first. If that is good, the motor should be easy enough to check by disconnecting the fans motor electrical connector and wire it directly to 12 volts. Keep your hands out of the fan blades. If those two are OK, the relay or the temperature sensor that turns on the relay would need to be checked. I couldn't tell you how to check either of those since I'm not really an electrical guy. ;)
  • oldman15oldman15 Posts: 43
    Owners manual states replacement as BP13 or BP14 NGK MAZDA

    Dealers Parts dept show & stock as replacement BP01.

    Anyone have any insight on the differences? Performance based upon differences?

  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    My "Mazda" spark plugs are NGK and the code used on them is BP01-18-110. They have been fine for the last two years.
  • oldman15oldman15 Posts: 43
    That's what the dealership shows is the replacement.
    Wondering if they are different in any way to the OEM owners manual BP13/BP14.
  • jack159jack159 Posts: 3
    I, too, noticed the rough ride shortly after I bought my car. Didn't notice this during the average short test drive, but have since found out that all P5's are built with stiff springs and shocks. This, no doubt, is designed this way at the factory to offer superior cornering and handling. I have owned many cars, including sport cars, and believe that other manufacturers have designed better compromised suspension systems and that the P5 is just too stiff.
  • jack159jack159 Posts: 3
    (1) coolant level is ok (plastic coolant bottle level - check with temp. gauge showing normal or below)
    (2) check if engine temp. normal when driving on highway
    (3) If it only overheats in city driving or very slow driving, then cooling fans are not coming on.
    (4) turn on A/C....if fans come on , then fan motors are ok
    (5) Then problem should be with fan motors temp. sensor or relay
  • jack159jack159 Posts: 3
    I don't think my 02 P5 (45,000mi.) problems were the same as yours. However, I'll pass on the solution to the problems I had. Engine would stall at hiway speed or sometimes stall when idling. "Check engine" light would come on. By turning off the key and starting up again, it would be ok for maybe a day or more. Scaning at "Auto Zone" showed "multiple engine misfire". That could mean many things. Went to independant repair shop..........same code. Visual check showed nothing.
    Finally went to smog station (Cal.) AH..HA !! read out was "coolant temperature sensor not within specs". Replaced it about 2 weeks and problem is gone. (knock on wood!)
  • aerosimaerosim Posts: 3
    I've change the timing belt two weeks ago (166 000kms). At the sametime, we change the water pump who was getting tired and the thermostat (23$) to make sure that it work correctly. Since that, the car is running well & I hope it's going to last for a long time. I hope I can get this car up to 250 000 kms before letting him go... it's probably gonna give a hard drive over 200 000kms since it is right now.
  • Hi all. I'm new to this forum and was hoping someone could provide some insite for me. I just changed my rear brake pads. I've done this before on other cars but this is the first time on my P5 at 68k miles. I followed the mechanic manual directions and reversed the order after replacing the pads. Here's my question...Does the P5 require springs to hold the pads onto the calipers? My car did not have them but the instructions indicated they should be on there. If so, can I get generic ones at the local car parts store? Thanks for your help. :confuse:
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Does the P5 require springs to hold the pads onto the calipers? My car did not have them but the instructions indicated they should be on there.
    Although, I've never replaced the pads myself, I believe I remember seeing them on my P5. You could check the front brakes.
  • jrummerjrummer Posts: 1
    I took my car to my regular guy and they removed the rotors and machined them a little to reduce some brake pulsing. Well, I get my car back and noticed a grinding/whining noise I'd never heard before. Turns out the wheel bearings are bad in the left front. Thing is, there was absolutely no noise the day before they pulled the wheels apart. My question is, are the wheel bearings effected pulling off a rotor on a 2002 protege 5? I can only guess the answer is yes and now they wanna charge me to replace a wheel bearing that was fine a week ago. Thanks.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    are the wheel bearings effected pulling off a rotor on a 2002 protege 5?
    I would not think so, but I'd have to check. How many miles does your P5 have?
    If it's over 60K (100K km), the bearings could have been worn down as part of normal wear and tear. The fact that you did not hear anything earlier could be due to the noise created by the uneven rotors.

    BTW I replaced my rotors because I've heard modern rotors are cheap and thin (as in: they do not last long).
  • It's time for a clutch replacement.
    Anyone have any experience w/ P5 clutch replacement:
    OEM vs. aftermarket?
    helpful hints?

  • I recently replaced the rear calipers/rotors/pads on my '02 protege 5. Bled the brakes and I'm still getting almost no pedal feel and I can hear the pads rattling around in the back. Any insight please
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    I can't quite remember but, you might have to manually drive the brake pistons in using the allen screws on the back of the calipers until the pads contact the rotors, then back it off a quarter turn or so. Then try bleeding.
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