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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair



  • 2000 C230K MB metallic silver exterior/blk leather interior. 4 door sedan. I have a rust problem starting. Driver's door rust starting at middle of door along the trim about six months ago. Passenger door on same side has a nickle size rust spot in middle of door just below trim, Upper area of rocker panel. I had one auto body person tell me best to get a new door rather than do body work on that spot and paint. He said he has seen these type cars with rust problems and I'd just be chasing rust breakouts. Do these cars have alot of problems with rust? What is the best way to deal with rust on MB? Is replacing door best way to go if planning on keeping the car. I've had this car since 2003 and love it!! Bought it with 85,000 mi on it in 2003. Extremely reliable engine wise. Very few repairs I've had to have done even though it has 136,000 miles on it, these repairs were suspension related due to wear of mileage. Best car I've owned. So I want to keep it as long as possible. thanks for any suggestions.
  • kufukufu Posts: 14
    I had the same rusty spots on my C-230 1998 as you described. I went to the body shop where both spots was fixed. That was back in 2004. Even today nobody can say where the rusty spots were. Who ever told you to get a new door(s) is wrong, because it is cheeper to do a body work. The best way to deal with rust is early detection, which means you won't spend much to fix it. Every good body shop can do a good job on it. My suggestion is to start looking for body shops and compare the prices. Keep in mind that you can still make lot of miles on your car. Enjoy the ride.
  • thanks for quick reply on rust issue. That is great news. I will take your advice and check with other body shops. I plan to keep the car a long time. Best car I've owned.
  • notme1notme1 Posts: 2
    hey guys, am new here, just got a used 2007 c280, my first mb,

    still getting used to moving from compact hondas to german builds so getting accustomed to noises,

    its a great car because sometimes i have to check if she is even running,

    but sometimes she is temperamental, moans like an old lady,

    i have never known much about cars and having new ones does not help either,

    a first used car experience is sure educational
  • thanks, I did just as you described and it fixed the connection now the tail light works perfectly.
    I am glad for this website sure helps alot.
  • notme1notme1 Posts: 2
    the garage guy told me in sports drive it starts on 1st gear and on comfort 2nd gear. since driving in the city is slow, the first gear and sports drive may be a better option. any thoughts ?
  • joo8450joo8450 Posts: 2
    The ignition switch will not turn after fixing squeaky noise on driver side seat.
    I should disconnecting battery cable prior to unplugging electrical wires.
    I think that it has open circuit in feedback system had to reset.
    Anybody had a similar experience on this matter?
  • rnugentrnugent Posts: 8
    The driver's power seat stopped working, again, on my 2004 C240. This happened last fall and turned out that a fuse needed to be replaced. I suspect same is true now. I am wondering what might cause this to happen every 6 months or so? Anyone else having this issue? Advice?

    Thanks, Raymond
  • mlongarmlongar Posts: 1
    Have 1997 C230 which loses power for a few seconds at all speeds on an intermittent basis. Power returns by itself. Not a transmission problem, but seems like loss of fuel to engine? :sick:
  • Hey Raymond,

    I too have a 04 C240 and have had the same problem with the drivers seat fuse going out. I was told that the weight of the person in the seat was causing the seat motor to pull more current and that was causing the fuse to blow. I have an issue too, my A/C from time to time has a whinning noise that seems only to be noticable inslde of the car, to me its like a cat whinning noise. Ever experienced this with your C240?
  • kufukufu Posts: 14
    Possible cause:
    1. Fuel filter choked,
    2. Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low,
    3. Timing chain incorrectly fitted,
    4. Uneven or low cylinder compressions,
    5. Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs,
    6. Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold,
    7. Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault.
  • bgneumannbgneumann Posts: 2
    Replaced the xenon bulbs over a year ago (C320 2001) & was fine until a few weeks ago. Now seem to be aimed too low (both sides) & does not illuminate the road as well as before.

    Anybody had similar problem ? Are the headlamps self adjusting ?? Is there an adjustment screw(s) ??

    Any help appreciated ? Thanks. :)
  • bgneumannbgneumann Posts: 2
    One dealer said that each lamp has a sensing module that may be defective .... ie. both lights at same time ?? Another dealer said that there is only one sending module for both lights. Probably the module is defective .... costs $230 !! Read somehwere that maybe the modules may have been somehow have disconnected or came loose, but doubt that ?? Probably, after 7 years, may have to dish out $230. Any car deteriorates .... even an MB.

    Dealers no real help yet. Will have to go & see them & have them advise.
  • ouchieouchie Posts: 1
    The "headlining" surrounding the bonnet release under the dashboard in my C200K Coupe (2004) keeps dropping into the footwell. It is a shaped piece of trim backed with thick felt. Any ideas on how it can be fitted back in place I cannot see any obvious clips etc.
    PS Members might like to know that Haynes have just published an updated guide on the Mercedes C Class (up to 07) No.4780.
  • rnugentrnugent Posts: 8
    Tx, just noticed your message (!) and cannot say that I have heard the whining "cat" noise from the a/c. Since you only hear it inside the car and not outside, probably not a belt slipping. Could be something w/the fan. Good luck.

  • kumasikumasi Posts: 3
    Hi folks!
    Wow, I just bought my 1st Benz and would like to know how often it should be "tuned"? It's a 1998 and the previous owner took pretty good care of it and I would like to do the same. It currently has 145+k miles.
    Ouogahdo :)
  • mbainmbain Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out where the fuse box was located? I have the same problem only mine occurs now on a regular basis and I have to take it to the shop to have them fix it. I have read the manual and I can't seem to find the location. I would really appreciate any info you may have. Thanks, Misty
  • I was told the dealer invoice is $34,635.00. I was wondering how much lower can I expect to negotiate with the dealer? Thank you.
  • Ok guys, this sounds like a real problem, but wanted to check out with you all first. Earlier this week my "HOOD OPEN" started coming on and will go away when the car is at about 25mph, I checked the hood and it is latched and not open. Now on friday morning I'm going to work and it started to rain, got to the stop light and the wipers stopped working, when I took my foot off break and got to about 10mph the wipers came back on and will only come on when going 10mph or faster and the hood light goes off at the same time the wipers start to work. Anyone else experience this? HELPPPP
  • How old is your car? I have heard that MB's will exhibit odd behavior like this with a weak battery. If your battery is at the 5-year or more stage it may be worth replacing it as it will let you down eventually anyway. I always change mine a bit ahead of schedule so I don't end up stuck somewhere looking for a jump or tow.
  • Thank you for the info. this is odd, I just noticed last week that the battery is starting to get weak. Its a 2004 C-240. I'll make plans to have a new battery installed this week.
  • I bought my old C-230 Yr. 97 on 2006, and don't know how old my (original MBenz) battery is. But i'm having some problems like that.
    The turn signals and the washer+wipers control doesn't work (at a time) as well as the hazard ligths. I was thinking that could be the control switch or some control module somewhere in the car. Now the question is: are you shure is something wrong with the battery or that can be just part of the problem.
  • All I can say is that the electronics in these cars are sensitive to proper voltage and weak batteries can affect that. If you still have an original battery in a car of your vintage it would be wise to change it anyway.
  • I have a 2000 C230 MB with 141,000 miles.
    Two days ago the check engine light came on and stays on. I checked the gas cap and made sure it is on tight. The light is still on. It runs fine, engine is quiet and runs/idles smooth. What is the next thing I can check that I may be able to do myself before taking it in for diagnostics check? Can I still drive it while the check engine light is on?
  • If you go to Advance Auto, the AutoZone or the like they will give you the codes and a likely fix for free. I suspect a bad oxygen sensor, but the codes will verify it.

    Given the car is running well and not misfiring you should be OK to drive it for a short time to find out what's wrong. If the check engine light flashes don't drive it as you could ruin your catalytic converter.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Even one good burp (misfire) from less than wonderful gasoline can set the CEL. I'd try a tankful of premium, brand-name gas, and also a can of Techron fuel injection cleaner and see how it goes. You might have to reset the CEL with a scan tool before you do the gasoline switch and the Techron.

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  • thanks for your quick reply.
    I went to autozone an the code that their scanner stated:
    PO410 - secondary air injection system malfunction.
    So I then also took the other response posted today and bought techron feul inj. cleaner and poured that into the tank with a full tank of gas.
    I figure could not hurt. Feul injector cleaner had not been done in a good while.
    I will go back and have the scan redone. To see if it will reset the computer on my car. Otherwise if it does not what do you think ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    You might take a look at THIS DESCRIPTION OF P0410

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  • this article talks about the possiblities of air flow problems for this code.
    air pump
    one way valve
    air fuse

    where is the air pump fuse (I looked in the compartment under the hood and did not see a listing)
    could a faulty air mass flow sensor cause this code or would a specific code for that sensor come up?
    I called the MB dealership and they said that code is non specific and they'd just have to start changing parts to see what the problem is. $85 hr
    So I guess I could do the same thing myself.
    Where is a good website that shows locations of these parts on the MB ?
    I should be able to replace the air pump, air pump fuse, air hose,one way valve.
    this is a great website, everyone has always been very helpful.
    (side note: this is the first time I've had any engine type problem, anything else was always very minor so am very impressed with MB. I've owned my car for 6 -almost 7 yrs and it is 9 almost 10 yrs old)
  • Could some one tell me where the Air Conditioner Evaporator Sensor is located?
    Also is it complicated to install myself?
This discussion has been closed.