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Hyundai Azera Audio and Entertainment



  • My salesman hinted at me that there is a way to bypass the issue with the DVD player only working if the car is in park, but would not elaborate. I see the safety reason for it, but if I am traveling with children (or adults for that matter) I would want it to play.

    Is this possible? :confuse:
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    I haven't dealt with the factory nav/dvd players in the Azera. I know with aftermarket units it can be done. I would think that it could be done with an OEM unit, it's a matter of finding the wire that you would need to "short" to make the unit think the car is in park. However, with aftermarket units, they have the ability to operate in dual zones...meaning the unit in the dash won't allow you to see the movie playing, but the monitors in the back will get to view.

    It has been said...anything is possible, question far are you willing to go to make it happen. You would have to find someone that knows how to do it and do it on the side. No reputable shop will do it because they don't want that on their hands should an accident take place, then the owner of the car sues them.
  • About to have 30,000 mile service. Dealer service offers the "minimum" recommended at $385 and "superior" at $465. Any advice/experience with these choices will be appreciated. :confuse:
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    only thing i can think of...conventional oil vs. synthetic oil.
  • rance2rance2 Posts: 39
    Nope. The lady who booked my appointment rattled off a number of additional services, e.g. lube door hinges, engine additive and other stuff I didn't make a note of. Starts to sound like an upsell with minimum value to enhancing the performance/durability of the car ... but I remain open to other comments. :confuse:
  • elrlawelrlaw Posts: 20
    Doesn't sound worth it to me. From what I've read, one should be suspect of the value of "additives" & "flushes." Some may even hurt your vehicle and can void warrantees. Be careful to distinguish between the dealer's "service pack" and what's in fact required by the manufacturer to maintain warranty. Ask the dealer to point out where, specifically in the owner's manual, the service they want you to buy is expressly required by the manufacturer to maintain the warranty. Eric
  • Definitely sounds like an upsell. I hate this about dealerships, they always seem to be looking to cheat the customer.

    Tell them that you ONLY want what is recommended by Hyundai be done. No 'flushing' or 'additives' BS. Get quotes from other dealerships Infact, Hyundai SPECIFICALLY tells you not to get some of these bogus flushing or additives & you'd risk warranty being voided if something untoward happens. Why would you believe the dealer over the manufacturer (you know, the people who designed, engineered & built the damn car)??

    Also, I'm sure that they would have quoted like $50 for Cabin Air Filter replacement & some $60 for Air Filter change. Buy these two OEM Hyundai parts from the parts department & change them yourself. These parts aren't all that expensive & are very very very easy to change. (You don't need any tools or even need to get your hands dirty. The user manual has step-by-step instructions with pictures. It's easier than even putting gas in your car!!). Takes 5 minutes max.

    Why can't dealership service departments be honest? Do they always have to be so deceitful?? Do the manufacturer recommended service & stop trying to BS about upsell.

    Is there something wrong about earning a honest day's work & not cheating people?? (Sorry, I get a little irritated when I hear stories about people getting screwed at dealerships)
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Wow...that's crazy. I know my dealer hates me, I never take it in for the extra stuff they advertise. The only thing I take mine to the dealer for is to get the transmission & radiator flushed & filled. Everything else, I take care of myself. When I hit 100k miles, I'll go buy my own spark plugs and have them put them in for me. I did this with my Sonata, and the dealer wanted to charge me $13/plug for the champion plugs that I paid $2.75/plug for.

    In my opinion, go with the cheaper option as it will take care of everything that needs to be taken care of. With what gasolines have in them these don't need any engine additives, I've driven my Azera for over 77k miles and the door hinges haven't been lubed yet with no squeaks or anything.

    Like Wobbly can get an oil filter for under $10 and the cabin filter is around $20...from the dealer. sells the cabin filter for $10, and it's VERY easy to change out, as is changing the oil.
  • 101649101649 Posts: 192
    Amen...Had plugs changed on my Santa Fe and it was close to $400..Platinum plugs for $16 each...labor unreal...they had to remove the intake plenum to change
    the plugs.....Cabin air filter on the Azera...go to Wally World and get a disposable AC filter for a home unit....cut it to fit the Azzy....Usually less than $5 and you have enough left over or about 2 additional filters....
    Check the maintaince schedule (little folder with mileage and months of service) and you will get a good idea of what is required....
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    I guess I was lucky...I got them changed when I had the timing belt replaced, so all I had to do was pay for the plugs and they did it while they were in doing the timing belt.

    I actually did what you described with the cabin filter just recently. I'm embarassed to admit that this was the first time I changed my cabin filter...simply because I didn't know how until seeing the posts on how to do it. Then I simply got lazy until I started getting a musty odor every time the a/c was turned on.
  • rance2rance2 Posts: 39
    Much appreciate you all taking the time to chime in on this. You've confirmed my concerns and the dealer will be instructed to do only what the manufacturer recommends. :)
  • First off, gentlemen and ladies, would you please limit discussions about your service experiences to some other topic than the Audio and Entertainment one? It WOULD be practical and give you more exposure, one would think, right? :)

    Okay, on to the relevant topic. I had my 2008 Azera Ultimate with Premium Nav/Infinity Speaker stereo in to Alexandria (VA) Hyundai yesterday for an oil change, transmission flush and other 15,000 mile service stuff and was provided with a complete reflash update of the Radio and Nav System Software free-of-charge which had been issued under a Hyundai factory TSB. It did NOT give me a free mapnsoft update (which would have been nice and I will only get around to when I start seeing too many non-existent roads it doesn't know). However, I guess there have been enough problems reported to warrant a new software update. I presume it's non-critical and only comes up as an issue on a regular service call since I never got an actual recall notice.

    IMHO, it's probably got something to do with the two or three times my radio/nav unit has totally locked up for no apparent reason but been fine again after turning the car off. Not a giant complaint for me in 16 months now of owning the car, but still nice to have addressed. I think the sound quality is better now too...but that might just be wishful thinking. Not that a 13 speaker Infiniti unit needs a heck of a lot of improvement anyway!

    Thought you'd like to know.

    Cheers and :shades:
  • Uh... you do see that this particular forum is about the audio and entertainment for the Hyundai Azera, right????? Why are you complaining about limiting discussions in this forum to other areas when this is what this one is about????

    There is a service forum. Maybe YOU should post your service issues there.
  • megarockmegarock Posts: 16
    I have always felt the OEM tweeters are on the weak side and even after replacing all of the speakers I still did not get a satisfactory result. Quite naturally I hooked up my new tweeters to the wires where the OEM used to be. This weekend I finally found some time to fiddle around the tweeters only to realize that there is HUGE improvement when the same tweeters are wired in paralel to the mid-bass 6.5" speaker. Suddenly they came to life and the imaging and clarity of the front scene has dramatically become better. I can only guess that the reason for that could have been that the OEM wiring of the tweeter is in series which boosts the 2ohm 6.5" speakers ahead of the tweeters. Please share your observations if you have had any experience in that particular issue!
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557 did you have the tweeters wired up to begin with?

    Oh...and running the tweeters off the mid-drivers doesn't boost them ahead, it just take the power and splits it between the mids & tweets. Initially, you had a 2 ohm driver hooked up and then 4 ohm tweeters seperately...the tweeters didn't perform as well because less power was going to them. By wiring the the tweets with the mids you've taken a total of 6 ohms and split it in half so the amp sees a 3 ohm load which equates to more power going to them.

    Now you're starting to understand what I've been saying all along with my set up. ;)

    Did you ever change out your center channel speaker?
  • justinrwjustinrw Posts: 18
    Not sure which category is best for this post, but I see there is some action in here today, so I will post here.

    Does anyone have trouble with the climate control buttons in the winter? When it gets below freezing here (Ohio) and I hit the down button on the temperature area, the button will sometimes stick - which means it turns the thermostat to 60, which is not desirable during sub-freezing conditions. This has happened to me two winters in a row.

    I was just wondering if anyone has had similar experiences. I think I am going to complain to the dealer and see if I can have them snap in a new climate control panel.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    I don't have this issue in my Azera, but my wife's Audi A6 does the very same thing. It's a headache sometimes, especially when you're trying to make temp changes while driving.

    In regards to the Azera climate control unit, if your car is under warranty...I would think that the warranty should cover that. If may want to pull it out (rather simple task quite honestly), take it apart and possibly clean it out. Be careful as it is a digital unit. I think a brand new one would cost you somewhere around $400 (if I remember correctly).

    It's not quite as easy as snapping in a new one, but it's not difficult to replace either. I have posted a guide that explains how to remove the radio in an Azera. Which, if you follow those steps (sans removing the radio), you would have access to the climate control unit.

    Azera Factory Radio Removal Guide

    Good luck!
  • megarockmegarock Posts: 16
    Thanks Allmet33, I perfectly understand what you're saying! However I have no explanation for the difference the tweets sensitivity changed as compared to the mids. Previously the mid-bass speakers were prevailing over the tweets and now they are more equalized. Give it a try next time whenever you have a chance, I'll be interested what you've heard then!
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557 me, I have no need to play around with my system just to see what would happen if I wire my tweeters differently. I can tell you, that your whole problem to begin with was NOT wiring them off the mid-drivers to begin with. By hooking the tweeters up the way you did, it's the same as wiring them in parallel which doubles the impedance load seen by the amp, in turn...cutting the power output of the amp, which equates to lower performance.

    I still feel it odd that you would swap out all of your speakers except for your center channel simply because of the "narrow" range it operates in. You can rest assured that an aftermarket driver in that location will perform better than the OEM. You've also got a situation where that OEM driver will distort before any of your other speakers in your set up as well. Just something to think about.

    In my case, the only factory component I left in place were the factory tweeters because they function very well with the coaxials I installed in the lower door location. Plus, with the swapped out center channel speaker...I now have 5 tweeters in my front sound stage and it is just so crystal clear.

    At any rate, glad to hear you have finally got things in such a way that you can really enjoy your sounds now.
  • megarockmegarock Posts: 16
    Thanks Allmet33 for the lengthy reply! Well the change is here and it is big, believe it or not, after I wired the tweets off the OEM cable. Logically speaking you are absolutely correct - the only thing supposed to change is the impedance but in reality it is a different story. I even begin to suspect there might be some resistor/ or hi pass filter/ of some kind in the standard wiring for the sake of the OEM tweets, god knows only. Fact of the matter is that even the wife noticed the improved clarity and overall performance and that means a lot. I leave the explanation to you as it does not really matters any more.

    I swapped the center channel long time ago, but haven't used it due to the poor volume adjusmtent possibility. Will have to find time soon and make it to my liking.

    If you feed the center channel speaker through the oem amp how do you make use of the tweet since there is a LPF above 6-7kHz? I am thinking of hooking to it the right channel directly from the CD player internal amp and pass it through HPF 80Hz. Of course that means no monoral signal but still the sacrifuce could be well worth it for the complete mid and high spectrum. What do you think? Do you still keep the oem sub (with HPF as well), does it rattle?
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Megarock...between the front mid-woofer and the tweeter, there should be a high-pass filter installed to only allow the higher frequencies thru to the tweeter.

    The tweeter on my center channel speaker works fine. The OEM amp has a high-pass filter on it for that channel set at 200 Hz (info directly from the Infinity OEM division techs), so there is a signal usable by the tweets. The OEM speaker up there was just single cone driver with a broad frequency range. I like the two-way speaker I have up there now because it allows the sound to be separated for more clarity. What speaker did you put in the center location, is it a 2 ohm speaker?

    The other channels on the OEM amp are as such:

    Front & rear doors...60 Hz (high-pass)
    Subwoofer...(80 Hz low-pass)

    I don't like the door speakers playing down that low, they really aren't designed for it. So with my head unit, I'm able to cross the door speakers off at 80 Hz high-pass and my subs are crossed at 80 Hz low-pass for a sweet transition from front to back.
  • Hello all, I would like to get some ideas as to what may be going on with my car stereo...

    A while back, the battery went dead and the guy who tried to help jump it, crossed the cables and caused many of the electronic systems to go out. I had it fixed at the local Hyundai dealer, but, they forgot to check the stereo...the stereo is obviously "on" (display works) and the CD changer as well. However, there is no sound. Is it possible the speakers were fried or could it be a contact or wiring? I know I'll have to take it to an audio place to have it fixed--but, since "knowledge is power"--hoping it keeps me from being overcharged or talked into replacing what may not have to be replaced if I have an idea of some of the things that might have gone wrong. I'd really appreciate anyone's input!
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    In order to give some feedback, I need to know which sound system you actually have. One has an outboard amplifier, which, if that's the system you's highly likely the amp was fried or if not the amp...the fuse to the amp. Not sure why you have to take it to an audio place to have it fixed, if it's the factory stereo...Hyundai should be able to fix it.
  • Thanks allmet33! The sound system is the Infinity for the Azera Limited 2006 (factory stereo). It has an MP3 CD changer/cassette tape player and radio--hope this is what you needed to know. I didn't take it back to the Hyundai dealer because I wasn't real happy with their work--I called the Honda dealer where I bought the car used and they told me they use an audio place who does their service work. If you need any more info, I can get the manual for the car--thanks again!!
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Ok...I can assure that you do have an outboard amplifier, so you would want to have that looked at. If the amp is working, then it's a possibility that the output from the stereo to the amp was fried, but I would almost put my money on the the amp or the fuse to the amp.
  • Try not to laugh, but, what is an "outboard" amp? :blush:
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    edited October 2010
    Nah...I won't laugh at all. Outboard vs. built in...the amplifier takes a signal that the speakers can't do anything with and boost it to a level to make it audible. A lot of lower end car stereos have a built in amp so you can connect the speakers directly to the stereo. Then, there are the upgraded stereos like the one in your Azera that does not have a built in amp. so the signal is sent from the stereo to the amp, then the speakers are connected to the amp. VIOLA!!! :shades:
  • Sounds good--do you know where the outboard amp is located in my car, i.e., behind the radio? Just wondering how much effort it will take these guys to get to it--as in manhours since they charge by the hour...
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    edited October 2010
    The amp is located in the trunk of the car behind the rear seat on the passenger side. In the trunk there's a liner and the amp would be behind that. To get to the amp, it should take much less than an hour if they really know what they are doing.

    One thing you can do yourself before taking to them is check all the fuses (located in the side of the dash in the driver's side). You'll have to open the driver's side door and you'll see a panel with a pull on the side of the dash. Give it a firm tug and it will come out revealing all your fuses. On the inside of the panel cover is a list of the fuses and what they are for...go through them and see if any are burnt out. If so, simply replace with a fuse of the same spec. It could very well be as easy as that.
  • You are awesome! Can't tell you how much I appreciate all this information!! I will check those things out as you explained--praying that is all it is! And, I pray you will be helped as much as you've helped me when you need something! :)
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