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Ford Windstar Problems



  • 75birdman75birdman Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Windstar, and I fixed the problem by replacing the rear air control switch in the dashboard. The system is run by vacuum, and when the switch starts to leak, it isn't able to port the vacuum to the correct side. :lemon:
  • joel6joel6 Posts: 1
    Have 2 brand new twin boys so I bought a used MiniVan. I just bought a used 2000 Windstar SE with 75,000 miles on it. Registered it and even got it inspected.

    BUT, I can't open the hatch!! Grrrrrr!! The key doesn't open it, and there doesn't seem to be a button up front to open the thing. If I hit the unlock button on the key fob a couple of times I can hear the latch unlocking, but the latch doesn't seem to work in back. All the other doors seem to operate just fine. I had my mechanic look at it for 10 minutes and he couldn't figure it out.

    Anybody else have a similar experience and/or advice? Any help is much appreciated.
  • My Mom Owns a 2000 Ford Windstar LX Earlier Today My Mom Tried Rolling Down the Passenger Side Window From The Driver Side But then She asked my sister to try her switch it worked Just Now it wont go back up and All The other Windows Work Just fine it has Nothing to do with the fuses Because If it was all the windows would be out. So Can Some one help me out with this delma. Please
  • mcrockermcrocker Posts: 3
    The fuse that controls the PSD (Power Sliding Doors) is fuse #6 in the fuse box on the driver's side. This fuse (15 amp) also controls the radio, the rear radio controls, Remote door entry, and CD changer (if you have it). Once you replace this fuse you will have to reset the PSD (resetting instructions are in the 1999 Owners Manual on page 89). If you don't have the manual you can download it FREE from the Ford website (
  • bgillinbgillin Posts: 1
    Where do I begin! I took the wagon to Autozone and got the following codes. P1537 Idle speed control or connector, P0171 Too Lean Bank 1, P0174 Too Lean Bank 2, P0153 Bank 2 o2 sensor, P0455 Evap Leak. Now all of these codes were shown but I'm not sure if the problem name is correct. Before I go buying a bunch of parts I hope someone might be able to shed a little light on what might be going on that would cause all of these to occur together. If they seem independent of each other, which should I tackle first to see if fixing one fixes others. Thanks to anyone who may help.
  • mhawesmhawes Posts: 1
    I needed to know about fuses for my cruise control - there is a listing and map of all your fuses in your user's manual for your car - if you were like me and bought used and did not get a manual ... go to, find the "owners" link and under resources you can get a pdf file of your owner's manual. ;)
  • mcrockermcrocker Posts: 3
    A friend of mine, who works on cars, found the problem with the windows. It seems that some of the wires from the control box (on the driver's door) had worked themselves loose.
  • jasonajasona Posts: 2
    Do you know a funny thing.......the dealership did not know which of the fuses were blown and I had to tell them what I found out from Autotire. Once they talked to me about it, they confirmed that Autotire was correct. Only then were they able to detect the rest of the problem. I would think the FORD dealership would know the Windstar better than Autotire. They still have my Windstar at least until tomorrow. The service dept has been kind and got me a loaner car, but I think I'm through with Ford. Old Henry Ford would be pissed and rolling over in his grave if he knew all of the crappy ill-functioning vehicles his namesake was producing.
  • I have a 96 Windstar and my front A/C Vents are stuck on defrost all the time. When i turn AC switch to ac, max ac, front, floor, front+floor combo, it always stay to defrost. Turning to off does work.

    Is my switch bad, or the flap inside the vents not flapping to switch air directions ? I heard these things are vaccum hose driven. Could i pull the hose out and start pluggin them up to see if the flap inside the vents move around ???
  • haulthault Columbus OhioPosts: 126
    I traded my 2000 Windstar w/46000 miles in on a Freestyle. I never had many problems with the Windstar, but it was 5 and it was our main family vehicle so I wanted something newer. Best wishes to all of you.
  • kitch4kitch4 Posts: 5
    Would anyone know if a lean condition on bank #1 would cause a misfire on #6 cylinder, or are they two separate things?
  • jdoudneyjdoudney Posts: 1
    I hope that I am putting this message in the correct spot. I have a 95 Windstar, that until the other day has never givin a single problem. But, I came out of the house started this thing and noticed a very strong fuel smell. The shop said that the # 2 injector was stuck open, probably because of a head gasket failure. Well, we replaced the injector, didn't get any water out of the cyl. and it is still just puking gas stright out of the exhaust. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
  • jjkuestjjkuest Posts: 1
    Sometimes the automatic doors on my WS does not close all of the way. When this happens, the dome lights remain on and by morning the battery is dead. In all of the previous cars that I have owned, the battery never died from leaving the dome lights on over night :confuse: . Today I did some checking. When the dome lights (and floor lights) are on, my battery is putting out 6 amps to the vehicle. When the ignition, lights and all accessories are off, the current draw from my battery is 0.70 amps (this seems high also). So I have 2 questions. Does anyone know of the adjustments that I need to make to the doors so that they close all of the way everytime? (I am always on the level surface of my garage when this happens) and Is a 6 amp current draw from the battery nominal (or acceptable) for the interior lighting of a car? This seems like a lot to me. If my calculations are correct, that is equivilant to a 72 Watt light bulb.
  • aforceaforce Posts: 2
    Try cleaning the contacts on the doors. I had the same problem with my '96 WS and thought the doors weren't closed, or that the door latch was bad. Apparently lubricant gets on the contact that tells the car the doors are open/closed, and it sends a faulty message that the door(s) is/are open, when they are not. Use contact cleaner spray that is used on electronics. Easy fix! I did this 2 years ago and haven't had a problem since. Most of my hair has grown back from where I pulled it out, prior to finding the cure, too!
  • aforceaforce Posts: 2
    Try cleaning the contacts on the door latch. These contacts get dirty with grease from the latch and send faulty messages causing the lights to stay on inside the car. Use contact cleaner that is used on electronics. Works like a charm!
  • beth59beth59 Posts: 1
    I am having problems with my odomether, Speed Nometer and my air condition just went out and my ABS light is on. I don't have my manual book so I don't know what fuse it would be, any help.
  • msmacymsmacy Posts: 1
    Recently a friend of mine had brake work done on her Windstar. Initially was charged 797.00 to replace front rotors and th epads. Subsequently the rotors proved to be defective & were replaced free of charge by the dealer - while there she was given the invoice that was to be given to Ford by the dealer for the replacement work of $330.00 which included labor. So the question is - is there any law about extreme markup in the service area - In other words, what they originally charged me $797.00 for compared to the amount they submitted to Ford of $330.00. Is this excessive mark-up - is there any recourse?
  • wanewbeewanewbee Posts: 1
    Had the same problem, twice. Ford replaced CPM, no more problem. Having read further, i understand they could have re-programmed it instead. $350. each time for replacement.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The speedo, odometer, and ABS light are probably related to a speed sensor circuit problem. You'll have to have an ABS capable scanner hooked up to retrieve the stored diagnostic trouble codes.
  • I was wondering if anyone can offer advice for my transmission problem on my 2003 Windstar. I seem to be having some sort of "hunting" problem as when I am driving and reach between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpms the rev counter flucuates between these to values and the care jerks as if it cant decide what gear it should be in. The car also seems to lag on upslope roads and seems to hesitate to change down unless significant throttle is applied. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
  • tecnobobtecnobob Posts: 1
    Well, I've been through all the messages and I seem to have two "common" issues with my 2000 SEL(78,000 mi). Check engine lights been on about 9 months (I gave up after several unsuccessful attempts by dealer to keep it off) - now I went in to Ford for a power sliding door that opens halfway and stops, then has to be closed manually. While there, I talked them into checking the engine light again without charging me the hookup fee. The sliding door repair will be $800.00 (new motor) and the engine light has now been pegged to a manifold gasket vacuum leak. The repair will also be around 800.00 - less if they don't have to replace the manifold with the "new, redesigned" manifold, which they'll know when they get in there and shake the old one. I guess something rattles if its bad?
    FYI - they also tried to replace my steering pump and assembly some months ago ($1300.00) to cure a bad squealing and burnt smelling fluid. GoodYear found that two end caps or joints in the steering assembly (forget the proper name- some kind of joints) were shot - they replaced them, changed out the power steering fluid, and I've been fine with that since.

    Anyway, does anyone have info on the door and manifold issues - maybe suggestions or info, or an idea for a cheaper alternative? Unfortunately, we didn't take the extended warranty.
  • ontarioontario Posts: 1
    Greetings Everyone

    The driver's side front wheel bearing has gone on my 1996. I have a 1995 I that I use for parts. I am trying to change entire spidle\knuckle assembly from the 95, which still has a good bearing, to the 96. I am having trouble with the pinch bolt that secures the bottom of the strut in the knuckle. I broke three wrenches on the weekend and tried heating it up an eventually rounded the head of the bolt. I want to take the assembly off and drill out the bolt. Here's my question... Is the bootom section of a Macpherson strut pressurized at all, or can I cut the bottom 6 inches or so off safely? Thanks for any help you can provide.
  • icatsicats Posts: 1
    My 2000 ford Windstar engine makes a rattling noise when driving on
    ruff or bumpey roads, it almost sounds like something going to fall off.
    Any advise on what this might be?
  • bljonesbljones Posts: 2
    My wife is having the exact same problem with her 2003 Windstar. She has had transmission problems starting at about 30,000kms. She now has around 70,000kms on it. She has had the transmission rebuilt once and replaced twice. Luckily for us all at Ford's expense. After the transmission was replaced the second time, she still had problems. She took it to a different dealership and when the technician understood the problem, he said he knew exactly what the problem was. He said there was a coolant leak from the rad into the transmission. He said that the rad had to be replaced. So we had the rad replaced and the transmission flushed, but still have the problem. Tomorrow (July 19th) two people from Ford in the United States are coming up to the dealership in Ontario to look at my wife's van. My wife's intention is to have Ford replace the transmission again at their expense, or take her van back (she leases it) early without any penalties. My guess is it will take Ford a couple of days to investigate the problem and then a few more to figure out what to do about it (and more importantly who will pay). I will let you know what happens.
  • Thanks for replying...i look forward to the outcome of inquiry.
  • icechic71icechic71 Posts: 1
    I have been having this problem for over a year now and the dealership can not figure out what is wrong. They have had my van three times and keep changing out fuel and air parts. When I drive more than a few miles with the A/C on and then come to a stop, the car shudders and then dies. It starts right up again, but as soon as I come to another stop, it dies. If I don't run the A/C then I don't have a problem. Anyone else have this issue? Any help is appreciated!
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    not sure what you can do about this, its like hospitals/doctors and contracted prices, its not that your price is "excessive", they will say the price paid to Ford is discounted!!
  • luccalucca Posts: 1
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,221
    Welcome to the Forums, lucca! Someone here is likely to have an answer for you. By the way, typing in all caps makes it look like you're shouting, so it's best to take your caps lock off.


    Need help getting around? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • jimwoodjimwood Posts: 1
    Hey that sounds like my car. I dont know about the manifold gasket, but the sliding door probably just needs adjustment. This is done by grabbing the bottom of the door and lifting. I was told by a Ford tech that they seem to bend when people are going in and out and hanging on the door. I would try it before spending $800
This discussion has been closed.