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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions



  • I bought a 2004 impala (base model), used, a couple of months ago and I have noticed a couple times that the speedometer will read 0 from the time I start the car untill the time I turn it off. As soon as I restart it goes away. but it is still a concern.
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    Does anyone have the part number for the transmission oil cooler used on the 9C1/9C3? Thanks...
  • i have a 01 impala just lookin for advice and warnings for installing resistor switch
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    Go to message 1284.
  • shotzyshotzy Posts: 1
    I have recently changed the alternator in my 2001 impala 3.8 engine. Haven't been able to reset battery warning light, keeps beeping when starting car, then goes out then I get a quick cal err message on the radio display which does disappear. Does anyone know how to reset this?
  • I bought the 2006 Chevy Impala new and that day noticed a vibration while driving as though I was traveling over a bumpy road. It is constant. After 10 days, at 2400 miles, I brought it back to the dealer. He said he tested it, felt the vibration and checked the tires for balance - perfect, checked the alignment - perfect. The steering wheel does not vibrate, just the whole car - though slightly. The steering doesn't pull to the side. The effect doesn't change when braking. The dealer said he went out in another 2006 Impala on the lot - a brand new one - and it vibrated too. So am I stuck with the vibration for life?
  • revjim64revjim64 Posts: 78
    Did you reset the "Security" code on your radio?
    I think most Chevy Dealers will do it for free.
    If its not the radio anti-theft device than it is probably an engine code that needs to be cleared. Of course you will need to buy an expensive scan tool or go to the dealer.

    Good luck, let me know how you make out.
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    I haven't noticed any vibrations in my 06 SS. Is the vibration speed dependent or in the powertrain? I've had issues with bad tires in the past and that's something that could affect your car and another similar car on the lot. Any other specific info about the vibration will help isolate the cause.

    As for your service representative, sounds as if he's trying to pass the buck. You may need to go over his head to a sales or business manager.
  • I notice the vibration more at 30MPH and above. It doesn't really seem to get worse as I go faster than that. The car I got was received from a dealership 200 miles away but still probably the same items on/in the car. Just a different color. Or maybe one has ABS/traction control and one not.
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    Sounds a bit unusual, especially since the other car has the same problem. Experiment with it and see if you can figure out more details.
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    Possibly one or more tires out of balance.
  • brian444brian444 Posts: 3
    I recently bought keyless remote fobs on e-bay for my 2006 Impala LT 3.5 and would appreciate if anyone knew the codes or sequence to reset them to match my car. Thanks.
  • Not off hand but I know I read the answer in the owner's manual.
  • brian444brian444 Posts: 3
    Guess I'll have to buy an owner's manual since the car didn't come with one. Thanks though.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I think if you register your car at you can download a pdf of your owners manual for free.
  • larconelarcone Posts: 9
    Correct. You can download a PDF document of any and all GM Owner's Manuals for free after registering at

    Good stuff and Adobe PDF allows you to search the entire manual for keywords.
  • deanoedeanoe Posts: 1
    I also have a Impala SS 2006 and at 21,000 miles the transmission gave out. They said I think that it was the main transfer clutch or something. The result was that trans was slipping so much that I could'nt go up a hill. They told me that It was from driving car hard. Which I know how hard I drove it and thought that they were wrong. Okay the reason I am responding is after they supposedly fixed it. I noticed that there is a vibration when you try to hold a steady speed up a grade. Also you can see the tach vibrating up & down at same time. Plus it seems like trans is not down shifting when you try to acclerate slowly and is slipping instead.
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    You rock. I'm a user but never found the Owner's Manual PDF. I much prefer the electronic copy both for searching and for the fact I don't have to go out to my glove box to look something up. Thanks a million!
  • having problem with the #3 spark plug it keeps cracking the porcelin every two or three months any solutions :( :(
  • bena8837bena8837 Posts: 26
    I too am having problems with my ISS and have had it in the shot 2-3 times. The 1st time it lasted about 3 months and then it was back again. I have taken it back and I don't believe the guys know what they are doing, or doing anything to it. The fact of the matter is that it's still the same. I read a answer where they just installed a grease fitting and pumped grease into it. Did they take the part off or did they do it in place, and if so, where abouts did they place the fitting. Also, what type of grease is recommended? Thanks, alot.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Turn on your hazards. Get out and see if all hazard lights are on steady, not blinking. If any of the bulbs aren't on, you need to replace them. If on, not a bulb issue. Next try and replace the flasher, it is cheap and nestled under the dash. You may have to look in a Haynes manual for exact location. If all this fails, it's the multi-function switch inside the column, and will cost you a few hundred to get fixed.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Balance might be fine, but how do you "check tires"? Did he x-ray them for pulled or broken radial belts? Happens more often than you'd think.

    I would first do a tire rotation, and see if the vibration changes in nature. I'm betting it does, and that you will find 1+ tires are defective.
  • Slight correction. I had a 2001 and a 2004 Impala. The flasher is actually part of the Emergency Flasher (4-way Flasher) Switch. About $45.00 for the part.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    Which section of the porcelin? Above or below the threads of the plug? (In the head or outside the head?)
  • Last year I had my thermastat and temp. sensor replaced on my 2001 impala. The problem I was having is it kept trying to run hot (up past the middle mark). Anyway, the motor fan kept running after I shut the car off. Then it started squealing when it was cranked after sitting for awhile. It stopped for a few months but it has started again. Can anyone tell me if it could be something easier and cheaper than the fan motor?

    P.S The fan works it just makes a terrible squealing noise..
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    If the noise is definitely the fan, then unfortunately it's got to be the fan motor. It shouldn't be terribly expensive, this might be the kind of job to have your local garage work on instead of the dealer. Not complicated.

    Sounds like last year, whoever worked on the car chose to just replace two parts instead of fixing the actual problem. You can diagnose a thermostat problem versus a sensor problem. Of course if they did the work cheap, and good, I guess you can look at it as maintenance.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    Well, this week I got tired of the daily dentist drill sound and took the car into the dealer service department. There is a technical service bulletin on this sound which the bulletin describes as a whistle, and it is known to occur on Impalas and Monte Carlos. The sound is coming from the throttle body. Today they replaced the throttle body, under warranty, and no more dentist drill sound. Yaaa!
  • lodtcd4lodtcd4 Posts: 7
    Hi there, I had the same problem and spent same huge amount of money investigating. It turned out to be the Body Control Module which costed me $550 to replace and reprogram it. It all had to do with electrical things. It started with the car not starting (if you wait 10 minutes it will start) and then it was different signals going off and clicking in the dashboard. See if that's it.
  • I just had my car at the Chevi dealership for the past two weeks. I think they tested every electric part and the Body Control Module ended up being replaced as well. My Husband drove it home from the dealership, it stalled once at a light while to start it again and drove it home without a problem; parked it in the driveway and let it idle a while longer and it never stalled again. He has been driving it all day without a far. I am hoping it was just working out the kinks and signals and we no longer have an issue! I am pretty depressed over the whole thing and really want my car to run!! :confuse:
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    The stall that happened on the way home is, believe it or not, normal, and won't happen again.

    When any electrical work is done on a car and the battery is disconnected, the ECM looses all of its learned air/fuel maps, along with a thousand other operational parameters. As you drive the car, the ECM re-learns the correct amount of air and fuel to give the engine so that it idles smoothly, with low emissions, at the right RPM. (It's learning other things too, but lack of idle re-learn is what caused your stall.)

    You'll find it runs better and better in the next days. Just how long does it takes to get back to normal? It's a fancy formula on just how long it takes to 100% re-learn and for every sensor to reach "ready" state... based on time, miles, speed, A/C operation, temperature, and more. Just be patient. If a while goes by and the problem comes back, then raise it up at the dealership.
This discussion has been closed.