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Toyota Camry Brakes



  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Wouldn't be unusual to get 30K on a set of brake pads. Sounds like the brakes need bled however, to get air out of the line. That should get rid of the sponginess. Take it back to the dealership, they should bleed it for you.
  • cb14cb14 Posts: 1
    I had new rear disc brakes installed at 200000 miles. I now have 234800 and need new rear disc brakes again. Both times the mechanic remarked that the front disc brakes look like new. The front brakes haven't been touched since I owned the car at 199200 miles. I asked the mechanic if maybe the front brakes aren't working. The rotors do appear shiny like the pads have been rubbing on them. Maybe the rear disc brakes are doing most of the work though. I would have thought it should be the other way around and replaced the front brakes twice as much as the rear, but its the opposite.

    The mechanic doesn't seem interested in finding out why this is occurring. Should I press for further investigation before any repair work is done? Any advice is appreciated.

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Typically I've found over my 40 years of driving, that I would go thru front brake pads (shoes in the old days) about twice as fast as rears. Makes sense, when there is more traction available in the front you can proportion the brake pressure higher to the front, which keeps the rears from locking up and skidding.

    Prior to buying our first Camry in 2007, I did read on the forums somewhere that rear pads would typically wear fastest. That is exactly what happened, I've replaced the rear pads as they were wore down to the warning tab. The fronts still have a lot of wear left on them, I would estimate approximately half worn.

    More pressure in the rear allows the vehicle to stop straighter and not dive into the corners when braking (with the added weight of front drive transmissions). I guess as long as the rears don't lock up and the ABS keeps control of that problem, it makes sense to have the proportion the way they do.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    For quite some years now I have spoken out for the rear brakes to be the primary braking resource for light to moderate braking. The idea was to rely on rear braking, only, as long as rear ABS didn't detect impending lockup or until a preset high brake pressure was reached.
  • cmk033cmk033 Posts: 3
    This is unusual for Camry to burn oil. If you replace oil every 3000 miles, this would not be too much of a problem but the fact the new engine burns oil is a problem. I have to add a quart every 3000 miles and I change them every 6000 miles. I complain about this problem to the dealer and they claim they have to do the oil change and see how frequently the oil had to be added to be able to determine if I am actually burning oil. I have 2.4L engine. I though because of thinner oil that this vehicle recommends may be the reason and I am actually using 5W30 grade (bit thicker than what is recommended). Let me know what you find out about this problem.

    -- Mike [email protected]
  • cmk033cmk033 Posts: 3
    My 07 Camry brake is same way. It now has about 50,000 miles and I figured the front pads are due for replacing. I bought them from an on-line dealer and I took it apart and the pad is only 1/4 worn. This is very unusual.

    The other day, I had to replace the tire bit early (I usually replace all tires at about 60,000 but it was due for replacement on about 40,000 miles. It is V-rated softer rubber tire the manufacturer put on) and notice the rear pad were worn considerably. I brought the car home and took the rear wheel out to have a closer look at the rear pad. They are worn about 80% at 50,000 miles. Now I have to prepare to replace the rear pad. This is very unusual. From my experience, the first rear pad is replaced after 100,000 miles or so.

    This must be new design of Toyota and I think, as you've mentioned, it make sense. But then question is about what mile, the rear pads are due for replacement? Looking at the current were of pads, I think rear one can still go about 10,000 to 20,000 more miles and front will be due after 100,000 miles.

    Funny thing is thought, if the Toyota have designed the brake system to were out the rear faster than the front, they should have mad the rear pad larger than the front. Their design for the size of pads has not changed.

    Any thoughts, anyone?

    -- Mike [email protected]
  • cmk033cmk033 Posts: 3

    One question about the rear pad. I am not sure what a warning tab is for pads as you mentioned in your post. Is this some type of warning system that the pads are worn? If so, how does this work?

    Although I still see this type of warning device on the pads, that when it is worn down, the squick, squick sound of warning when wheel is turning, which works pretty well. Not too many pads come with this warning device anymore and I do not know why.

    It would help me to determine the time to replace if this warning tab is an indicator. Last time I check brake pads, they were worn very very evenly. All four wheels.

    Your reply post or an e-mail would be appreciated.

    -- Mike [email protected]
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Given that in an overall effort to improve FE all weight lessening possibilities are being considered. Reducing the weight of the "little" relied upon rear braking system might be high on that list. In the past I have expected to only replace the rear brake pads every third time I do the fronts. Could the weight of the rear brake assembly be reduced enough, narrower rotor, etc, to equalize pad wear without sacrificing braking ability??
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sorry for delay, have been on extended vacation and just returned home. The warning tab is just a metal tab that hangs off the brake pad facing the rotor. As the pad wears, that tab gets closer and closer to the rotor. When the pad wears down further, right before it's down to nothing, then the tab starts to touch the rotor and make a screeching sound. The tab is softer than the rotor so it wears instead of the rotor. If you replace the pads before it squeaks, or immediately when you hear the first squeak.....your rotor will undoubtedly still be fine.

    If people continue to drive and the pad wears further until the pad metal backing is exposed to the rotor, then the rotor is toast.
  • mgchiumgchiu Posts: 1
    I just got back from a Toyota dealer in Middle Island, NY, and they charged me $479 for the front rotors and pads, and $316 for the rear pads. Gee... I have to find me a good independent shop.
  • Re message from mic2011- My daughter just had her brakes stop working while driving yesterday - the pedal got too hard to push- miraculously she rolled to a safe stop. She was told today by the Toyota dealership that it was an electrical issue and that the amp for her subwoofer/stereo system was pulling too much power from what runs the brakes- which is really scary that her life was endangered because the brakes can glitch like that- and she wasn't running her stereo then-
    It sounds like whatever your fix was would be what she needs.
    Will you please tell me what was done to fix your brake problem so I can advise her properly?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 62,396
    WHAT?!! :surprise:

    the problem is the power brake booster. Get the car out of there and to someplace competent.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • I agree with Mr Shiftright! The problem is the Power Brake Assist Module is bad and must be about a $1200 job.

    Your situation is very close to mine. The brake pedal would get so hard to push and it would be would drive it and say I was just a weakling female. The first time I took it to the dealer, they bled the brakes and the problem went away. I drove it for a couple of weeks and then it happened again.... Before I finally convinced Toyota I had it in the shop two or three more times. I had to get really serious about the safety issue ... when I took it in one time and the mechanic drove it and said no it was fine but the Assistant Service Manager (thanks be to God) asked him to drive it one more time. Lo and behold the mechanic comes back in with a funny look on his face and agreed, it had happened to him.

    Toyota paid for the whole job.
  • zalmyczalmyc Posts: 1
    Hi. I'm wondering whether I screwed something up in my 2001 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder (2.2L).

    I went through the process of replacing some wheel studs on the front passenger side. I removed the calipers, the caliper bridge, pads, etc. At one point while everything was disassembled (the caliper was detached and away from the rotor and the caliber bridge and the rotor were removed), I went inside the car and pressed almost all the way down on the brake pedal. I've been told in the past that this should never be done, but it slipped my mind at the moment cuz I was trying to shift the car into neutral. Anyway, I put everything back together, except that I had a tough time getting the caliper back on. I had to force it on (hand force only) until it went around both brake pads, and then it slid over a little easier (although not very easily). I later read that I should have pressed the caliper piston in before putting the caliper back on.
    With everything back on, I drove the car. It seems to brake okay, I didn't hear any unusual noises, and the only thing I think that may be different is that when the shifter is in drive, on a flat surface, and I release the brakes, I think it may not move forward as much/fast as it did before this whole repair.
    Finally, my question: could I have screwed up something? from my results, does it sound like something has gone wrong, or do the brakes automatically readjust or something?

  • when adjusting the parking brake of a 2005 Camry with drums can i do it by lifting one side at a time and adjust it or do you have to lift the entire back end and remove both wheels at the same time.
  • mrkempmrkemp Posts: 1

    2007 Camry Hybrid, brakes work great, problem is when I turn the car off. The High Pressure Inside Brake System keeps pumping itself up, hours or even days after it’s been parked? Anyone know why it does that?

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