2003 Toyota Camry Exterior
camrysev6owner
Member Posts: 66
I've dented my 03 Camry after putting a bike rack on it. I have one of those trunk bike racks. The upper bar rests on the trunk's surface and the lower bar has to rest just below the license plate. The lower bar does not rest on the rear bumper because of clearance needed for the rear spoiler.
I was carrying at the rack's full capacity of 3 adult bikes that day. I guess it might have been the pressure given to the lower bar when going over bumpy roads that gave the trunk lid a dent under the license plate.
Does anyone have an idea of how to fix dents properly? Can I push the dent back out from the inside of the trunk lid?
Looking forward to any replies.
I was carrying at the rack's full capacity of 3 adult bikes that day. I guess it might have been the pressure given to the lower bar when going over bumpy roads that gave the trunk lid a dent under the license plate.
Does anyone have an idea of how to fix dents properly? Can I push the dent back out from the inside of the trunk lid?
Looking forward to any replies.
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Anyone else experiencing anything similar?
Mark
Should I have a TEFLON service for a new car or wax it instead?
I'm curious because I may be interested in the Camry but would want to change the mirrors. I recently got a new Camry as a loaner and I put it in my garage just to check space and you have to be so careful because these mirrors stick out so much...plus it's hard to get around the car once it's in the garage.
I remember that when I bought the car in November last year I was told that I could get a transparent plastic film for the hood (not at the dealer though). It can prevent stone chips, and will not affect the looks of the car because it's transparent.
So I've done some research on the net about such plastic films. There are quite a few companies that make them now. Actually, it has been around for ages, just not used on vehicles. It was used on helicopter blades during wartimes. So I called up the detailing shops nearby and got some price quotes. Ranged from 50 dollars to 185 dollars. I ended up getting the 185 dollars one made by 3M (the Scotch Tape company). The guy tells me that it is thicker than film plastic made by other companies. Also, it can be peeled off with some heat if you need to in the future. That was a great concern for me because I was afraid that a sticky film would be left on the hood if I were to pull it off.
I will be getting it installed today. If anyone wants to see it, I will post a picture somewhere.
Anyway, most dealers cost little over $400 (painted) plus the cost of the cover which covers your third brake light, unless you want your brake light on the spoiler and the one at the rear window at the same time. But it doesn't look good.
Also, when you go to those express car wash, the trunk area underneath the spoiler may be not wash. I got no problem because I wash mine by hands.
However, I found the rear spoiler is taking some rearview when you do the back up. It doesn't brother a lot. I just pretended that I have a high trunk. I do put a tissue box and some small stuff animals near the rear window. It is for my baby. I don't see any problem when parking or backing up.
You can try www.camelbacktoyotaparts.com I think your local dealer would charge you $100 more for the spoiler plus a ridiculous labor charge. Some auto stereo and alarm places would charge $60-$80 for the installation. My brother just added a spoiler for his Civic. He bought it from ebay and it was actually a dealer overstock with nothing wrong.
for a 1997 Camry. I need to replace as I backed
into a tekephone pole, corner got squashed in.
Are aftermarket bumper covers as good as orig?
Thanks!
Years ago when I lived in Florida (a one-tag State) I wanted to add a bracket to my 76 Ford LTD (I always had some kinda goofy message plates I wanted to show off) and bought one OTC at the dealership. That's ALL they sold me...no bolts to attach it with, JUST the bracket.
Deke
Tinter2 does not remove the windows, however, he bakes the windows after installing the tint. I'm not familiar with what is involved in baking a window during the tint installation process. I'm concerned of them doing this from the interior of my cars. Then again, he mentioned that once your remove a window, they don't go in as original by the auto manufacturer. Also, a concern of mine.
Tinter1 uses exclusively Madico. He says Madico is one of the best currently, in terms of their customer service and produce performance and warranty. I asked about 3M. He said 3M is a little behind of the times in the auto window film industry. However, still good tint, but not as good as Madico.
I used Tinter1 once in the past (1998) to replace my rear window with a new one with tint after it was shattered. I selected them from the yellow pages one Sunday morning because they were the only shop open on Sundays and I needed to fix my rear window immediately.
Tinter2 uses 3M and Solargard. He said he would install 3M in my cars. He also does tint installations for 20 dealerships in the South Bay area. He was referred to me by a local body shop.
Tinter1 and Tinter2 owns their respective companies.
Which company would you go with?
I read a lot of good feedback with 3M window film. However, limited personal comments on Madico.
I would appreciate any comments.
Tinter1 quoted:
$289 for 5 windows on 04 Camry SE
$90 for 2 front windows on 04 Sienna LE
Tinter2 quoted:
$200 for 5 windows on 04 Camry SE
$50 for 2 front windows on 04 Sienna LE
You're right regarding the privacy glass on the Sienna LE. Therefore, I only need the two front (driver/passenger) windows tinted there.
It would be nice if Camry came with a privacy glass option.
Thanks for your comments on 3M.
So which tint shop would you select?
From my research, baking the window after installing tint is a common step in the process.
They don't remove the back window. Only the door windows are removed.
My concern for removing the glass from the doors is whether there will be problems down the road in terms of automatic window performance or rattling because it will not be the same compared to the manufacturer's installation.
Did you have any problems with your windows after they removed and reinstalled the windows with your doors?
I can't decide how 50% front and 35% back would look like, the legal limit in my state..anyone have an opinion? I'm leaning towards the uniform look 50%
2003 camry
Anyone who even considers having their '02 or newer Camry windows removed and tinted are brave souls indeed....I mean the car comes with enough rattles, creaks and buzzes off the lot....I can only imagine the cacophony of noises that emerge when it gets when ripped apart and re-assembled. GOOD LUCK.
PS: I have never seen a non-factory window tint that did not bubble where the rear defroster is...do they just replace the entire back window or apply a film over the defroster or what?
I am not thinking this for my 03 Camry since my wife is not comfortable with that.
I think the auto manufacturers don't offer the factory tinted windows (privacy glass) on cars due to the operation safety and public safety concern. On the other hand, SUVs and minivans have more open space in the passenger and cargo area. They probably think you can't really put stuffs out of sight except with the privacy glass, unlike cars have trunks. Plus, it helps the A/C run more efficient on these vehicles with large interior space. Well, this always makes the folks at the auto glass shop busy.
The worst area is under the rear license plate..always the dirtiest part first since the water just sits there and when it dries, you see the dirt..not a good design IMO.
1. Front and rear under body spoilers
2. Side rocker panel moldings
Check a Los Angeles Toyota Dealer and they said it's known as ground effects. They have them in their catalog w/ picture but no price and don't know where to get them.
Thank you for the help.
TRY THIS WEB SIGHT WWW.VIZAGES.COM
GREAT LOOKING KIT I ALLMOST BOTH FROM THEM, BUT AT 48 YRS OLD, I BACKED OFF...MAN THAT WAS TUFF...HAHAHAH
GOOD LUCK
Talk to the folks who replaced the engine, but for the most part follow 30K miles, except for plugs and oil changes. I assume they gave you new plugs and nothing else ... but ask. Everything that wasn't repaired will continue to wear at the normal rate.
Dents - If the metal is pushed in, but not creased, you may be able to pull it out with a toilet plunger. Also, there are dent removal kits, that you may get from a hardware store. In fact, you might try talking to a local hardware store, or someone like AutoZone, and ask what they have to take out dents. If the metal is folded or creased ...Oh, oh, better Get Maaco
(reference to US TV commercial) ... you probably need a professional service, but you may not need to go to the dealer.
Please add to our knowledge after ya'll determine the best approaches.
-Hank2
Well, I guess I would just have to live with the dent, or get one of those kits from a local hardware store. Not sure if it would work, but it's only $30. Even if it doesn't work, I wouldn't feel ripped off.
I had two concerns regarding hitches though. The first one was that there would be potential rusting that acts as a substrate which promotes rusting onto the car's underbody. This was only my assumption because I've seen it happen to older cars on the road.
The second concern was that the looks of the car would be affected because of the hitch that must be attached at all times (another assumption). I didn't like the look of the car with the hitch on it when the bike rack is detached.
I had been wondering if my assumptions were correct for a long time. Maybe you could give me some input on that.
Hitches are generally powder coated these days and protected from the elements.
Deke
It doesn't work of the metal is creased or the paint is "broken". If the dent is very close to the edge of the panel, the paintless technique is less effective.
If you are very talented and use the right tools you can do it yourself, but you could make it worse.
I have found that most paintless shops will be candid about their ability to fix the problem. The shops I have used guaranteed their results (if I wasn't satisfied, I get my money back).
In my opinion, few collision repair shops can precisely match the factory paint color and texture, so paintless is the way to go.
gearhead4
Years ago, you weren't supposed to wax a new car right away. With advances in paint technology, clear coat, etc., I'm guessing that no longer apllies. I'd like to put a coat of wax on as soon as it is advisable.
My last car was a '98 Buick which I bought used. I got the longest lasting "beading" effect using good old fashioned turtle wax, in paste form. It would last about 4 months -- with the car kept outside.
The Camry owner's manual makes no recommendations as to type of wax that I recall. Are there any standard waxes that shouldn't be used on a new car?
Thanks, in advance, for any help.
I used to used Turtle Wax also, but it's a pain.
Now I use Eagle One's "Wax as you Dry" spray wax.
You simply spray it on the car after you wash the car, but before you dry it. Spray on the wax (on a section of the car at a time), and then use a chamois (real or synthetic) or a soft cloth, and voila, the car is waxed in a jiffy.
Maybe it won't last that long, but it's so easy to use that you can do it every time you wash the car.