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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions



  • my door locks (driver and passenger side) don't work unless i have the key in the ignition (ON).

    on the driver's side, i have to use two hands to open the door. this is what i have to do to open my door: put the key into key hole, turn it, then with my left hand i use to open the door. when i turn the key to unlock it, it does not unlock, it gets jammed. i sort of have to "jimmy" it. i do the same thing when im inside the car; i put my thumb on the lock as if i was going to unlock it but as im doing this im holding it back then with my right hand i open with the door handle. and when i try to unlock it, the lock from the inside does not move. this is the most inconvenient issue because i always have to use two hands :[.

    also my driver's power window work but when i want to put my window up i have to use extra strength to put the window up.

    i know these are a lot of issues but i will greatly appreciate it if someone can help me then going to a shop and being charged big money when it might be possible i can fix it my self. thanks you.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    For the window problem, you have to figure out whether it is a mechanical problem, or an electrical problem. In a vehicle your age, the window hardware can just be plain worn out, and have binding in the track. Or, you could have an electrical switch problem with a resistance which isn't proving the full voltage (or 'power') to the electric motor. Or, the problem could be the electric motor itself.

    If you disconnect the electric motor from the window mechanism, you can work the window track by hand and feel whether the window moves smoothly, or has binding and the cause of the needing the manual 'extra strength. If a bind, buy a replacement track mechanism, or adjust/grease as needed.

    With everything connected and while the motor is engaged and moving the window up, measure the voltage at the window switch. If the voltage drops substantially due to the window current draw, then it's likely that either the switch is bad or you wiring to the switch across the door jamb has deteriorated and you have a resistance there from some possible frayed wiring.

    If voltage is okay, and track mechanism is okay, then replace the window motor.
  • I replaced the 10 amp tail-light fuse and 2000 camry still want start, must be another fuse because radio won't play, windows won't move, fans and door locks don't work and taillights don't work (and maybe other things) . Horn and front lights work.

    All fuses under hood looks good. Does one of these control the smaller fuses in the inside (at about left knee)

    Would a code reader help? Please give directions on its use
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Does your engine starter engage, crank and turn the engine?

    What year and model is your camry?
  • did i mention, whenever i try to put my driver's window up i have to use a lot of strength to put the window up?

    and my door locks work only when the key is turned to "ON". and the door locks still work when i take out the key but only for a few minutes. and when a they dont work, it can only lock all the doors, it cant unlock.

    im not sure how to use a voltage meter.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    did i mention, whenever i try to put my driver's window up i have to use a lot of strength to put the window up?

    See says you have to take the window motor off, and move the window manually to see whether the problem is mechanical where the window and track are binding....or electrical.
  • meaning i have to take out the door panel correct?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Yes, you have to take the door panel off, to get inside the door. You have to disassemble the electric motor from the window, so that you can manually lift the window up and down to see how the mechanism works....and see how smooth it moves. You will probably find a bind, or something loose, or something bent.

    Figure out where it is binding, and do whatever it takes to fix it.

    Be careful of fingers and sharp edges.
  • My Toyota 4 cylinder will crank but won't start. The door locks, the windows, the radio, the clock, heater /ac fan, wipers,and tail light don't work It appears that the fuses are bad, but the fuses looks good on inside of car at drivers left leg. The horn, dome light and headlights work fine. Does one of the hood fuses control the inside fuses. Would a code reader help to solve my problem. Would there be
    a security code that is contributing to the problem
  • okay i tried a while back. i took out all the screws but i cant seem to take out the panel. im not sure if its a screw or i have to pop it out hard. its holding the middle of the panel i dont want to pull it so hard it might brake.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Lowertwin....don't despair, we should be able to figure this out ...

    Can you tell me whether each of these work:

    - Stop Lights
    - Cigarette/Power Outlet (when ign key turned on)
    - Wiper (when ign key turned on)

    Code reader of no value.
  • oh my! is this a camry? if it is its a great source. its almost the same as my 93 camry. your the best! now i can run my wire directly to the speaker instead of my stereo's wire harness. thanks!
  • Stop Lights
    - Cigarette/Power Outlet (when ign key turned on)
    - Wiper (when ign key turned on)

    none of these work
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I suspect your 100 Amp alternator fuse. It's actually a fusible link.

    Up in the engine compartment, on the left driver fenderwall. There is a fusible link block, forwardmost section. This is connected to the battery, take care in replacing.

    What did you do that caused this problem? Jumping a dead battery? This is a very major fuselink to blow.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    If that alternator fuselink is blown due to jumping a battery so are the 6 rectifying diodes in the alternator.
  • You were right, the 100 amp fuse was blown. Replaced it
    and all things seems to be working, except it will not start. Do you have any other suggestions?

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Good, making progress.

    Undoubtedly some other downstream fuses from that 100amp might be blown as well. Let me look at the schematics, and give you a couple things to look at to determine what else might be blown.

    How did you have this problem in the first place....what triggered that to blow?

    Okay, please check the following things to see if each item is working or not. That should allow to zero in on the problem area.
    - does the cigarette lighter have power? (with key on)
    - does the wiper work? (with key on)
    - does the starter engage and crank the engine?
    - Does the stop/brake light work when you put foot on brake?
    - when you turn on the headlights, do the running lights in the back turn on?
  • I assume the cause for the 100 amp fuse to blow was jump starting a dead battery.

    cigarette lighter works
    wipers works
    engine cranks, but will not srart
    stop/brake light work Tail lights work
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Good, all of the main distribution legs have power now.

    Now I need you to pull actual fuses, and verify that they are okay.
    10 A Gauge fuse - Instrument Panel (IP)
    5 A IGN fuse - IP
    15 A EFI fuse - Junction Block on left fenderwall engine compartment
    7.5 A OBD fuse (IP)
    5 A Starter (IP)
    15 A ECU-IG fuse (IP)

    Let me know what you find. Hopefully you have an ohm meter that you can check to see that there is continuity thru the fuse.
  • Good News.... The 15 amp EFI fuse was blown, replaced it and it started. One note thought that the alternator diodes would be bad,but it seems to be charging.

    Thanks for your assistance
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666

    I would watch it carefully for a week or so. You could have an alternator problem, or even some relays that don't work correctly (like turning your headlights, or radiator fans on).

    I also didn't check all of the fuses, just the key ones needed to you may find that something else doesn't work (a/c, defrosters, electric seats, etc, etc, etc).

    Good job, saved yourself some $$.
  • some times my backup lights work some times they dont also noticed when applying the brake clock on dash dims clock does the same when headlights are on
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You need to verify first that you have a good battery, that the connections to the battery are tight and free of any corrosion (which adds resistance thereby dropping voltage), and that your alternator is okay and charging the battery back up to the right voltage.

    Most auto parts chains will do a complimentary test of battery and alternator for you.
  • i do have some corrosion on battery had auto parts store check battery and alternater they said they were ok should go ahead and clean pos cable also when problem stared with my running lights fuse blowing, replaced fuse no problem with those lights or brake lights
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666

    Put a little water on it, then pour some arm and hammer baking soda on it to neutralize the acid. It'll fiz for a while, and then you can wash it off. All corrosion needs to be gone, and connectors tight. Wire brush everything to get nice clean metal to metal.

    I usually put a dab of petroleum jelly over the terminals and connectors, helps the corrosion from coming back.
  • i have to do tomorrow morning ,what volts does this alterater put out i think the tester said 14.4 volts ...
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    That would be good voltage
  • will let you know tommorow what happens thanks for help, iam getting ready to go on trip..
  • I am blowing the turn signal fuse on 95 Camry. Left turn signal works fine, right turn signal blows the fuse. Bulbs have been replaced, sockets/contacts are clean, wires do not have any visible issues. Not sure what else can be causing this issue besides the turn signal switch. Looking for other things to check before I turn to the dealer.
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