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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions



  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Usually a battery or alternator problem.

    Take your vehicle to an autoparts chain (Pepboys, Autozone, etc) or dealership. Ask them to do an on vehicle alternator and battery check under load. At the autoparts chains, this is usually a free service. They have a machine which they will connect to your battery and alternator, which will check that the alternator is putting out the correct maximum amount of current at the right voltage, and that the battery doesn't have a bad cell and delivers the power it is supposed to.

    Also inspect your battery terminals for corrosion, and that they are tight.
  • Reference Post #787 - Quote of problem

    "After my car sit all day at work, I got in it to drive home and my power windows didn't work or my dash instruments. Found 10 amp gauge fuse blew after I got home. replaced it and after driving for a few minutes , it blew again. And the battery died after a while and it is affecting the shifting in the trans now. I am sure it's all related by a ground or something. Any ideas? 1999 Camry CE with 145,000."

    I have the same problem - 95 Toyota Camry SE. Except the first fuse melted and didn't blow - I removed the melted fuse and I think the fuse slot is fried. Before I start going through all the "Excellent" troubleshooting you have outlined, should I replace the fuse box. I haven't replaced it because I wanted to find the real problem first, but I fear it will be difficult to find the problem without closing the circuit at the fuse. Where should I start?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    It would be difficult to replace the fuse box. Why is it exactly that you believe the fuse box is bad? Do you think you could put another fuse in the slot as replacement?
  • Well, the slot for the fuse also melted and deformed. Also, even though the fuse wasn't blown, the circuit opened up. I assumed it was because the slot was fried. Should I try and reposition the slot (move the connector back into position) and replace the fuse? Then trouble shot from there. Or should I connect wire into the connectors and use an inline fuse - so if it melts again - it melts the inline fuse instead of the box?
  • i just put a new bosch universal oxygen sensor on my 2002 camry, unfortunately check light came on, i made sure the colors matched properly ( 2 whites to 2 blacks, 1 white to 1 gray, 1 black to 1 blue ) . Any help will be kindly appreciated, thanks in advance.
  • Of course, I guess I should test the fuse slot to see if it is good, eh?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I would suspect it is good, but if you want to check you can check is with a DC voltmeter, plus probe in the fuse slot, negative probe on a piece of metal frame somewhere.

    One of the legs where the fuse plugs in should have 13 volts on it (assuming the battery is good), and the other should have 0 volts.
  • Thanks!! I will get the fuse working again and go from there. I avoided putting another fuse in because it melted, but the more I avoid it, the more unnecessary work I do.
    You are awesome - kiawah!! Thanks again@
  • Kiawah,

    Tested the fuse slot, it was good, a new fuse wouldn't go in because it was deformed - I inserted two blades connected to an inline fuse. I began your check list starting with the trunk. There they were - bare,melted wires. I cut, cleaned, reconnected and put some extra protection on them. Started the car and drove for about 15 minutes. Everything seems to check out. Fuse wasn't warm, no symptoms. I must say - you seem to know your Toyota's very well. I thank you for all your help. I have a few things to work on, so I hope to talk to you a little more.

    Let me know where to send a six pack, bottle of whiskey, my thanks on the back of a $20 bill, whatever. You saved me days of aimless toil and money. You're great - thanks again!!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Super, congrats.....glad it worked out. I think the fix you did with the inline fuse should work just fine, rather than trying to replace the fuseblock. Hard to imagine that it actually melted before blowing the fuse...I don't understand that. (Unless this was a used car, somebody before you had the blowing fuse problem, couldn't figure out what was wrong, so put a higher fuse that supposed to be, and hence the fuse never tripped when it should have).

    Hope you soldered the trunk wires, or used some permanent wire connector....given that they will flex back there and work loose if you just twisted wire and put tape on it.

    Next time you walk past a charity of your choice at Christmas, throw an extra buck in their bucket.
  • The fuse never actually blew - it melted and one of the blades popped out. It was a red fuse (that's 10amp isn't it?). Maybe the fuse wasn't seated properly at the same time and the loose connection and extra amps caused heat. But, not enough amps to blow it.

    I did use permanent connectors. I don't like tracking down electical problems I already fixed - so I tend to over do repairs.

    I will add and extra $50 to the scholarship this year and give extra cash to the food bank this Christmas. I will also help somebody else with their car problem. Thanks, again.
  • ronl2ronl2 Posts: 1
    The power windows, seat belts, backup lights and gauges will not work on my 1990 Camry. It keeps blowing the 7.5 fuse. I checked wires going to door. Could it be the backup switch on the brake pedal? What is going on here?
  • Kiawah has helped many of us to a similar problem. First, you backup light circuit has a wear point in the trunk you may want to check out. My 95 blew a similar fuse (10A though) and screwed everything up (windows, charging system, shifting out of first, etc). I checked the wires that go to the back up lights (in the 95 it was on the drivers side going from the top of the trunk up the hatch. What I found were bare wire and melted insulation at the hinge (that's probably not the right term). This seems to be a common problem. Repair those wires with a permanent connection with lots of protection if they are worn. Then replace your 7.5 A fuse. If that isn't the problem then check out post #787. Good Luck and thanks to Kiawah I have a reliable Camry again!

    AND HE BEAT ME TO IT - SEE Post #847
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    +1 to pathfind response

    Please verify that it is the "Gauge" fuse that you are blowing, and not something else.
  • My 2000 Camry LH headlight was intermittent so when I went to replace the bulb, found the white wire covering and bulb housing connectors melted. Now, there is no power to the headlamp and the fuses are all good. Have checked the wires back 6" and found no additional melting. Advice?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Can you tell me whether you have daytime running lights, or not. There is different circuitry depending upon whether you have DRL.

    There are three fuses in this circuitry, make sure all are good.
    - 40A Main
    - quantity (2) of 15A Headlight fuses

    Also let me know whether you have a little portable DC voltmeter that you would know how to use to check some voltages. We can definitely prove where the problem is if you have one of those. They're about 15 bucks.

    If you are asking for advice on the connector, you need to buy a replacement socket, and solder the wires in. Make sure you get the correct wires to the correct socket position. You have a high and a low beam wires, as well as a ground.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Not altogether unusual, especially so if someone has substituded "brighter" aftermarket bulbs in place of the factory recommendation.

    55 watt Halogen light bulbs run on the HOT side. If at one time someone was not careful enough at fully seating the connector this is what happens. or you may have simply encountered a factory manufactuering defect, the electrical connection of the socket was somehow compromised.
  • i just got a switch for my power windows on my 92 toyota camry and i cannot get any power through the switch or my sunroof could it be something wrong with the fuse or the power window relay. i cannot even find the window relay
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check two fuses:

    - 10 A Gauge Fuse, and
    - 30 A Power Fuse. This 30A is on the fuse block by your left knee, but it is a big fuse over on the right hand side. On the right edge of the fuse block, the top fuse is the Power Fuse.

    Let me know what you find.
  • I own a 2003Toyota Camry xle. Two lights on my heating system do not come on. Is it a fuse problem or do I need to remove the unit?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Are you talking about the tiny illumination lights at night, that light up the dash and all of the accessories? Like the lights that illuminate the cigarette lighter, radio, etc?

    If you are, this circuit has one fuse that powers all of these lights, so if one is powered they all would be powered. It's the 10A Gauge fuse.

    If only one or two are out, then most people would probably just ignore it, otherwise it'll be a trip to the dealership to let them take your dash pieces apart, at whatever their labor rate is.
  • bmw65bmw65 Posts: 1
    My keyless entry keyfob has decided not to work! After two days at the dealer, during which they were unable to re-program the existing key or a new one, I was able to get it working (though not as well as previously). The doors unlock/lock but none of the lights go on like before; also, I need to be right up on the car for it to work! The remote starter is on the key as well, but I have not been able to get that to work! Any ideas? I should mention the car was hit earlier in the year, however, there was no apparent need for any repairs othyer than body damage.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Is there a year, make, model, trim for your vehicle?

    And is that remote entry and start system a factory unit, or a dealer/other add on?
  • i get a code 14 = bad igniter,short in wireing,bad ecm. Q: if i jump the igt wire with the igf wire and bipass the igniter will this mess up the ecm or the ignter ? And yes my head herts from tring to read the wiring diagrams
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The ECM is just the trigger for the igniter. You need the igniter for ignition to work.

    I suspect you'd blow the ECM's output to the igniter, if you connected directly to the coil.
  • I just noticed that my right headlight stopped working. I didn't even bother to look closely at the bulb before buying a replacement. I just assumed that it was burned out. I replaced the light, and the problem continued. I checked the old bulb with a volt meter and it checked out fine. I checked the 20A fuses, for both left and right lights, and they are both good. There is a relay that I have not checked yet, though I was tempted to swap it out temporarily with a similar but not identical relay in the fuse box. I am wondering if the relay could actually effect just one side rather than two. What else can I check before taking it to the garage?

  • Problem solved! No comment. LOL
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    "No comment" what does that mean? user error?
  • Both the automatic transmission selector switch light in the center console and the driver-side seat warmer switch light in my wife's 2006 Camry XLE have suddenly stopped working. Is it really likely that two separate bulbs have burned out, or could there be a different problem? I'm not anxious to start removing the center console to check the bulbs until I'm sure.
  • Update: 99 Camry. Fuse would blow at different times while driving.
    After spending alot of time and effort, I took my car to a electric shop for cars. After 2 weeks and 350 dollars they found that after I had the engine rebuilt , they did not secure the wiring harness behing the engine and after driving it for 6 months, which is how long it took for this problem to come up...the wires melted and 3 wires fused together and would rub on the pipe only when I drove the car and hit a bump. So there you have it. Thank you to Kiawah and everyone who tried to help..
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