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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions



  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    Your symptoms are exactly the symptoms one would expect, with a bad bulb where the filaments are crossed.

    I still believe you have a bad bulb, and aren't looking closely enough at the filaments to see the problem.

    What I'm betting is happening with a bad bulb, is that when you turn on the turn signal, the power goes thru the light switch to the flasher, to the bright filament of the bad bulb. There it shorts over to the 2nd filament, thereby powering the 4 corners and they all flash (should be dimmer than a normal flash). The flashing period might be faster than normal, or it might be the depends on the type of flasher that is in your vehicle. Cheap flasher units would end up flashing faster. Heavy duty flashers that are made to handle vehicles with trailers, would flash with the same timing.

    In your other situation with the headlights ON, the dimmer filament is lit on all bulbs, and in the bad bulb the filament is now feeding over to the flasher circuit. I have to digress a little to explain how the flasher module itself works, and this might be a little confusing to you. It's a little can like device, that monitors the current in the turn signal circuit. When it lets enough current thru, it turns off, which opens the circuit, and your turn signal bulbs turn off. It cools a little, closes again, turns the turn signal bulbs on, which makes the bulbs flash.

    Now the reason it doesn't flash when your headlights are on, is because there is voltage bleed from the headlight circuit, thru the bad bulb, over onto the flasher circuit bulbs. Because of that, there isn't enough current drawn thru the flasher, to allow it to flash. The result, the turn signal bulb turns on bright, but never flashes correctly.

    Please go back and recheck those dual filament bulbs. You have to look at the bulb itself, where you are looking at the two filament wires inside the bulbs, and noting that one of those filaments is a bright filament, one is a dim filament, and they cannot in anyway touch each other.

    It is possible that socket corrosion can also cause this problem, but it is much more likely a bad filament in a bulb.
  • After adding a little brake fluid the brake warning light stopped appearing.

    Next week I'll be able to have the brakes checked out and will report back. Last complete brake job was at 64,000 miles. Car is now at 102,000 miles.
  • My dad took his 97' Camry in a few years ago to get his tires rotated. After it was done, he drove home and the ABS light came on. It has stayed on ever since. He never went back to ask them why it came on. They must have done something. I didn't know the car had ABS until this light came on. Anyway, forward to now, he is giving this car to me since he got a new car. I know the brakes are good and recently that the pads were replaced. I don't want to pay a mechanic extra $$ each year for him to pass the car's inspection which my dad did since the light came on. Is there a way to turn or disable this light off myself? Or maybe when i go get it rotated again, i will ask a mechanic to clean it since i've heard some ABS sensors are just dirty and needs a good old cleaning. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well the easiest time to have figured out what happened was years ago. The problem might have been caused by the tire rotation, or it may only have been a coincidence.

    Why didn't the mechanic figure out the problem, when they put new pads on? Did they flush and refill the brake fluid, or ignore that as well?
  • Ahhhhhhh! You know I have had scant few issues with my 02 Camry. An o2 chip went under warranty. A gasket job when I noticed a puff of white smoke out the pipe...I was not too thrilled with that one. A door lock repair for a sticky lock which I did not think much about but was told would have cost $600! These were under all my 7/75K warranty. Well I now have 88K and my starter went…$350 and now another door lock is sticking. They told me last time I was lucky I had the warranty because it was a $600 repair. I am NOT getting it fixed this time at that cost.

    Anyone familiar with this problem. The lock sticks. It opens when it wants to. Today its stuck. It rained last night...wonder if that has something to do with it. I recall someone telling me the door guts on Camry's were no adaqautely sealed from weather...

    When I click OPEN on the fob you hear the normal unlock sound and all doors unlock except the passenger rear. You hear a secondary click but the lock does not open (or close) .There are a lot of posts on the internet but not many solutions.

    Anyone know where you get something like this fixed by a non dealer? Sure the dealer is better but they get $225 just to take the door apart and put it back together. I just saw a video on youtube…they guy had the door apart in less than 10 miniutes…they wonder why folks do not want to go to the dealer. Any ideas…thoughts?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    If you have a video of someone taking the door apart, why don't you consider doing the repair yourself?

    Just be careful not to damage the interior door panel (or get dirt/grease on it), or cut/pinch yourself on the sharp metal edges inside the door. If the problem turns out to not be the part you bought for replacement, you can save it for the next time or sell it on ebay as used.

    That's a reasonable repair to tackle for a handy do-it yourself-er. Haven't had to do our Toyota, but I've done a number of our previous vehicles (a Chrysler twice, couple different Chev's). As long as you don't damage other parts, or cut yourself, you should be able to beat the price you have. Shouldn't take you more than a couple hours, plus parts running time.
  • tempted but I am unsure what could be wrong, what the part costs and to be honest I am a bit intimated by electronics....
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    That's the value you're getting then, for your $225. Somebody with the expertise and knowledge to diagnose the problem, and fix it.

    If you have the skills, then you can save some money by doing it yourself. If you don't, then you pay for someone who does.....and use your expertise/time making money in whatever business/profession you are in.
  • Not quite, they charge $225 to take the door apart then must dx the problem then must get the part. I am paying $80 and hour to dx the problem and and then stuck with their inflated parts costs. The fact they charge 2.5 hours of labort for 20 minutes work taking the door apart and putting it back together just adds insult to injury.

    My point is I am willing to pay for an expert just not an expert who lies about the time it takes and doubles the price of the parts. The trick is finding that person...which is was what I was asking. Anyone know of a company or such that might be an alternative to the dealer; or a more specific how to on this fix?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Well the dealer is paying a mechanic very good money to do the job quickly and correctly. The mechanic can't spend 4 hours doing this job or he'd be fired no doubt. Slow and methodical is not rewarded in this business. The dealer has enormous overhead and the technicians have to "beat the clock" whenever they can.

    Everything looks easy if you know how. Our only alternatives when dealing with our modern, complicated cars are:

    1. Do the learning curve and figure out how to fix it ourselves, buying the information and tools we need

    2. Pay an independent shop to do it for us, counting on their (somewhat) lower labor rates to ease the pain.

    3. Pay the dealer whatever it costs to do it fast and correctly and with a warranty on parts and labor.

    As for the parts, if no aftermarket parts exist, then Toyota is the only source, and you know what that means. It's either them or a wrecking yard to find the part.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I think my point is that they will do it quickly and hoepfully correctly (I've had mixed luck in that dept) BUT only they are aware they did it quickly. The book says it takes 2.5 hours to remove and reassemble a door so thats what they charge. Nevermind it takes less than 1/5 that time. Plus, do they give me my car back after an they hold it 3 hours. Personally if they halved their labor rates I bet thir business would quadruple. I''ll look for an indy shop or if I can find a video or procedure, try it myself I guess. Otherwise it remains broken I guess.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    I say go for it!

    If you have the video, and it will only take you minutes, then within 1/2 hour you'll know whether you're in over your head, or you can most likely handle it. What's the worst that can happen, a back door that won't open?

    Well actually now that I think about it, perhaps it's a door that won't shut, or one where the window won't go up anymore, or a short where none of your door actuators work anymore.

    I still say go for it, nothing ventured, nothing gained. Have faith in yourself.
  • I had a similar situation on an old Chevy. To unlock the driver's door, you would click the unlock button on the fob once. To open the other three doors, you would click it a second time. The passenger's door lock wouldn't always unlock. The lock slide would go about halfway as far as it should have. I found out that by clicking a third time, the lock would travel the rest of the way to unlock the door. Total cost was zero. Granted, it was not a "fix" because the door would not unlock when it was supposed to (after two clicks), but it became a habit where I would always give three quick clicks on the fob, and all four doors would open. I drove it that way for another four years with no problems. See if this might possibly help in your situation. It's worth a try, because it's free! Good luck.
  • that did not work. Funny though it started working last night but stopped again this morning....
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    You're going to need to get that door apart, to diagnose/find the root cause of the problem.

    - Bad/binding locking solenoid.....solenoid bad, and not able to move good linkage
    - Bad/binding locking linkage....solenoid good, but not able to overcome problem with bad linkage
    - loose/corroded electrical connection...electrical power not getting to the solenoid
    - frayed/broken wire in the door jamb area, providing intermittent connections (although I would doubt this is the cause of your age vehicle on a back door)
    - or something else
  • I got tricked about 2 years ago buying a used 1999 camry , they reset the engine lights and right before I got home the speedometer starting acting crazy and tranny slipping..Replaced the vehicle speed sensor which seemed to help..Speedometer would go wacky during heavy rain with puddles or if I ran the air..But car ran good..
    3 days ago , I didnt really pay attention but I plugged a iphone charger into my cig lighter , I coulda swore i saw it light up but not 100%..But now I look at the charger and the nipple is missing , but the cig lighter still heats up but there are some burn marks on the inside of the lighter..
    Problem im having is that the 10amp Gauge fuse keeps blowing , sometimes on startup , sometimes when I put in reverse , or sometimes when I drive about exactly a quarter mile..Seems to be that I can drive the quarter mile after the car has been sitting , but right after if I try to change the fuse it blows on startup..If its in between , the car will start but fuse will blow upon shifting from park...
    There was kind of a loose bulb in the trunk light that I disconnected , looked thru all the wiring in the trunk and it looks fine..Disconnected and pulled fuses for the trunk and the Gauge fuse still blows..Disconnected an old alarm system and tried pulling various fuses still same thing...
    Where would be next place to look??..the wiring behind the Cig lighter that still works but possibly got shorted?? or the vehicle speed sensor that has been kinda wacky from time to time??? Thanks!!!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    Well unfortunately, the 10A gauge circuit is one of the more difficult circuits to diagnose a problem with, since it is wired into so many different things and powers many of the 'control' circuits, for other devices.

    I'll make up an analogy, which is not quite technically correct, but hopefully you'll understand the concept. Your house thermostat is a control circuit, and it needs power to run. It monitors the temperature of the house, and then closes a switch when needed, thereby telling the furnace or air conditioner to turn on/off, and the blower fan to turn on/off. The furnace and airconditioner may use it's own much larger power sources, but the 'control' circuitry can be powered by it's own circuit. (The reason my example is not technically accurate, is because in most furnaces, the thermostat is directly powered by the furnace power, not it's own power source). However, the way Toyota has these circuits built is as I described. The gauge circuit is involved with:

    ABS system and traction control
    backup light
    charging circuit
    dash combo meter
    cruise control
    door lock controls
    auto tranny
    engine control
    key reminder and seat belt warning
    auto turn off light circuit
    moon roof
    power window
    stop light
    tail light.

    Thus the 10A wire runs all over the place and connects into a lot of different control circuits.

    There's a couple of things that are easy to check and do, the rest would be too difficult, particularly without a set of electrical schematics.
    - Go check that loose bulb, bulb fitting in the trunk,
    - Also check VERY carefully, and re-insulate each wire if necessary, the bundle of wires that rub against the trunk hinge.
    - Disconnect that alarm system, I am always very suspicious of aftermarket devices that people add into the wiring. Cut/insulate the power source to it, if need be.

    Beyond that, diagnosing the problem is going to be a bear. You'll need the electrical schematics, a wire routing diagram, volt/ohmmeter, and a lot of patience and determination. You'll need to unplug as many of the control circuit devices as possible, until you can get the fuse to stop blowing yet is still driveable. Even then however, the problem could be in the wiring itself, and with unplugging everything, the fuse still blows.

    If this was my vehicle and I couldn't immediately find it, I might consider wiring in my own new 10A circuit. Wire in a brand new 10A circuit, and then begin using that new circuit to feed the power to all of the other different control circuits. One by one, move the device over from the old power source, to the new power source. At some point when cutting the device off the old 10AGauge circuit and connecting into the new, the 'problem' will shift over to my new circuit, and I'd prove exactly what the problem was.
  • I needed front brakes replaced and also had brake fluid flushed. Problem solved. Thank you.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Super, it's great when a warning light does what it is supposed to do!
  • The alarm button on my smart key sometimes gets pushed when the keychain is in my pocket. Is there a way to disable that button on the key? Or disable the alarm itself? I don't think I would miss it - who pays attention when an alarm is going off?
  • mwj32mwj32 Posts: 1
    Is there a fuse for the Fuel Pump? When I turn on my ignition switch I don't here the normal sound from below my back seat. The car turns but will not start.

    Where would that fuse be located?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Two fuses associated with the fuel pump and pump control.

    15A EFI (electronic fuel injection)
    10A Gauge
  • I have a Toyota 2001 Camry, the front driver side door lock not working by remote
    I were told to check on fuse but have no clue which fuse is for door lock
    Any help will be appreciated.

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Can you clarify your symptoms please, you may be going down the wrong path.

    1. Verify that your door locks work by the door switches. Try both the driver side, and the passenger side, and make sure all the locks open, and all the locks lock from both doors. If these are not working correctly, then it has nothing to do with the remote key fob. Tell me what you find when you do these tests.

    2. If everything is working correctly via inside the car, then click the remote keyfob to lock and unlock the doors. Tell me what you find.
  • aces24aces24 Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Toyota Camry. The insturment panel lights do not work, as does the power outlet under the cigarette lighter. When I checked the fuse (fuse #29, behind the change holder), I noticed there was no wire running behind the port, and therefore the fuse either sits in there loosely or falls out. It still does not work even when I tape the fuse in. My manual says this fuse is for the power outlet, but I do not see which fuse is for the panel lights (I am assuming it is the same one, unless someone knows differently). I am not very electrically inclined, and do not want to replace the whole panel, but I would like to see the speedometer at night. Is an in-line fuse the only solution (and where would I attach it to...the wires behind the stereo?)?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited January 2011
    The instrument panel illumination, get's it's power from a 7.5Amp "Panel" fuse. Behind lower finish panel.
  • aces24aces24 Posts: 2
    Thank you! There is definitely a short somewhere in that fuse, as it blows immediately upon ignition. The audio system, window defogger, cigarette lighter, etc. all continue to work b/c they run off multiple fuses, but I would like to see my speedometer at night. I'll probably get led lights that plug into the cig lighter, as I imagine that will be cheaper that getting an electrician to look at all that wiring...
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    That fuse handles basically three things: clock, combo meter, and the little illumination lights (goes to dimming rehostat first) that are all over the place.

    Try unplugging the clock, and then see if you can get to unplug the dimming rehostat. That may help you break the circuit apart, to see which chunk is causing the fuse to blow.
  • Hello. I have been digging through this site a bit trying to solve my problem. Based on what I have read, I understand that several components are on the 10A gauge circuit. I have followed some diagnostic steps laid out by kiawah and I am pretty sure I have isolated my problem to the AC system.

    Here is my current status: If I replace the 10A fuse and start the car with the AC off the fuse remains fine - gauges, windows, etc. operate. When I turn on the AC by pushing the AC button the fuse blows immediately.

    As a test, I replaced the 10A fuse with a 15A fuse to see how the AC would function. The AC does indeed work and blows cold air. Of course, that was just a temporary measure.

    So, what is the likely cause? I do not know enough about automotive AC systems, or cars for that matter, to be able to deduce what is faulty.

    Thanks in advance for any feedback or guidance.
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