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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions



  • My generous school snow plowers pushed snow into my car (right under the hood). snow covered radiator upto right in front of battery. I cleaned snow out using a random stick. Driver's side head light was out so I bought 2 pairs of brighter light bulbs for both low and high beams. After replacement, I tested all lights. Only driver's side low beam does not work. How can I approach this problem?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sorry, been off the system for a couple days.

    First, let me say do not ever replace the fuse in a circuit with a higher rated fuse. The wire is only rated for the fuse, and the fuse keeps the wire from burning up. If your wire burns, you will have one heck of a time trying to rewire that circuit, having to tear everything apart. It would be an extremely expensive repair.

    The 10A circuit, when it gets into the A/C area, powers a couple of things:
    - Heater Relay
    - A/C Magnetic Clutch Relay
    - Heater control switch
    - Air inlet servo motor
    - Air vent servo motor

    You have to try and find a way to isolate those things, and figure out what is drawing too much power. If after replacing the fuse, with no A/C you can adjust air inlet and vents, then it probably isn't those. I'd then pull both the heater relay, and the clutch relay, and try flipping the a/c on. If it blows, then I would lean to the heater control switch being bad. If it doesn't blow, then shut evertything off, and put the heater relay back in. Try it again, see if it blows. If that works, then put the magnetic clutch relay in, and if that blows, then you have it isolated down to that circuit.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Need to figure out whether the problem is the bulb, or the circuit to the bulb.

    Take the bulbs out, and measure resistance of the different filaments. You have two bulbs, so should be able to compare them. If you find them different, then one of the bulbs is bad. If they are the same resistance, then put the bulbs back in different side. Switch the drivers with the passenger side.

    If the problem stays with the driver side, you know the problem is in the circuit feeding the bulb, and both bulbs are good. If the problem moves to the passenger side, you know definitively the bulb is the culprit.
  • allen200allen200 Posts: 2
    edited February 2011
    hello, none of the lights on my trunk hood works. these include the license plate lights and parking lights. first i replaced them, but no good. then i examined the fuse box (behind the coin storage, under the steering wheel). nothing looked out of the ordinary. im guessing the fuse in question is the 15A, the blue one 2nd from the bottom on the 2nd column. i dont have extra fuses at the moment to replace it, but just to test, i used a different 15a fuse and plugged it in just to see if the lights would come on. they still didnt. all these lights worked about a month ago.

    dont know what to do!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited February 2011
    You're mucking with the wrong fuse. You don't want the 15A Stop fuse, you want the one directly below that, which is a 10A Tail fuse.

    If that doesn't fix it, or it blows again, let me know. There's some other things to diagnose where the problem may be.
  • Hazard lights are working and flashing, all running lights are working and headlights are working. Dash lights are working but we are unable to get the front and back, left and right turn signals to work. They do not turn on or flash. It is a 1993 Camry XLE
  • This forum is great, I kept reading posts and found the solution and found the resolution it was a fuse and I found the location it was not in the fuse box which was throwing me.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Excellent, congrats.
  • nika2011nika2011 Posts: 2
    Hi everyone! I had this camry (it is a great car, runs like a gazelle!) since jan 2000, and have never had any problem 'till now. It started a couple of weeks ago, after I washed my car at the carwash station. 10 A fuse was blowing out everytime i start my car. this fuse controls window power on driver side, dashboard lights, windshields and maybe something else I forgot to mention. Fuse blows everytime I try to move my car from parking position to neutral or reverse. What could be a problem? it is obvious to me that my cat has shorting in electrical wires.. but where could it be? My car passed emission and inspection test day before it happened. Where to look at?
  • nika2011nika2011 Posts: 2
    Hi everyone! I had this camry (it is a great car, runs like a gazelle!) since jan 2000, and have never had any problem 'till now. It started a couple of weeks ago, after I washed my car at the carwash station. 10A fuse was blowing out everytime i start my car. this fuse controls window power on driver side, dashboard lights, windshields and maybe something else I forgot to mention. Fuse blows everytime I try to move my car from parking position to neutral or reverse. What could be a problem? it is obvious to me that my cat has shorting in electrical wires.. but where could it be? My car passed emission and inspection test day before it happened. Where to look at?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I don't have time right now to pull out the schematics to investigate further, but off the top of my head, I would say you either have a bad electrical switch on your transmission, or some wiring in the trunk hinge (specifically the wiring feeding power to the reverse/backup lights) is shorting.

    Crawl in the trunk on your back, be careful not to get locked in, and while on your back look up at the wiring on the trunk lid hinge, on the driver side. You are looking for whether the insulation has worn thru and the wire is touching metal, when the trunk lid opens/closes. "If' this wiring on the reverse circuit was shorting out, when you took it out of park and moved it thru reverse, the transmission switch would power the reverse lights, instantly shorting out the fuse.

    If no wiring problem, then I'd suspect the transmission switch, and you can check that with a meter.
  • IM having the same problem with my 92 camry were you able to fix your problem?
  • I have a 1995 Toyota Camry LE 4 cyl, 4 door, close to 214,000 miles and runs great.

    Couple of weeks go, all 'power' items stopped working. The power locks wont work, even for the driver side. Each door have to be locked and unlocked manually. The power windows do not work, luckily, the windows were closed when it all stopped working. The sunroof open/tilt/close do not work either.

    I assume this is because a fuse for the power system went off and I cannot figure out where the controls are. I opened the fuse box on the left hand side of the driver above the hood release, and it doesn't look like none of them are for power door or locks. Where else is it controlled from ?? Thanks in advance for your response.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2011
    Common to all three of the windows, doorlocks, and moon roof.......are the 10A Gauge fuse (powers control circuitry), and the 30A Power fuse (powers the motors).

    Both are in the fuse box by your left knee.

    10A Gauge is a little fuse, which you would typically recognize as a fuse.

    30A Power is up in the right hand corner, just beneath a cable connector.

    Let me know which you find blown, and if the replacement fixes your problem.
  • kribbiekribbie Posts: 2
    Hello, new here. I recently purchased a 1994 toyota camry. The headlights and high beams do not work, all other lights work,running and tail. I know the bulbs are good from bypassing the relay and they work. i have replaced the headlight relay and the complete switch on the steering column. the fuses are good and I believe everything else works as far as I can tell, I haven't noticed anything else not working. I have looked at a wiring diagram and see the integration relay in the system. Would that be the problem, if I had changed everything else. And also the high beam indicator doesn't even come on when lights are switched. Thanks for your help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595 said you bypassed the relay and then the headlights worked, but replacing the relay did nothing? This doesn't seem possible, unless you bypassed the relay by taking voltage from some other hot wire than the one that comes from the headlight switch----if the headlight switch sends power to one side of the relay, and then you hop over the relay and the lights work, then it has to be the relay.

    But if you took power from some other source than the circuit from the headlight switch, then it's possible that it's not the relay but rather that the relay is not being activated by the headlight switch.

    Which means, (phew) that you have something open between the headlight switch and the relay, or that the headlight switch is not getting any current itself.

    How 'bout fusible links? Check any of those?

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  • kribbiekribbie Posts: 2
    edited March 2011
    I dont see any fusible links in the wire diagram I have. Do you have any idea where they are located? I have the 2 hot wires at the relay butdo not have anything from the switch. like I said I have replaced the switch and the relay and now the integration relay. I do not know what the problem could be now. I am getting frustrated with it.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2011
    Take out the headlight relay, and note where the relay socket numbered pins fit within the socket itself.
    - Pin 4 is the +Power, coming from the 40A main fuse
    - Pin 2 is also +Power, coming from the 40A main fuse
    - Pin 3 is the ground connection which goes to both the integration relay, and the headlight switch.
    - Pin 1 is the wire that runs out to the headlight fuses, and then to the headlights themselves.

    So, a couple checks to figure out what is happening.
    1.) With a digital voltmeter, verify that you have a +13ish volts on both pin 4 and pin 2, with the black voltmeter lead on engine ground. This will verify that you're getting the main power to the relay. If correct, move on.
    2.) With a wire, in the socket, jumper pin 2 to pin 4. This will provide a constant ON voltage to feed down to the low beam headlight fuses, and then to the low beam headlights themselves. Verify that they are working. If correct, move on.
    3.) With the above jumper in place still, now flash the high beam switch, the high beams should also come on. Now also turn on the high beam switch, and verify that the high beams are on. If all correct, you would have verified that all the fuses are good, all the bulbs are good, and that 'dimmer' piece of the headlight switch is good. Then your problem is either in the relay itself, the integration relay, or the 'light control' piece of the headlight switch .
    4.) Remove the above jumper wire. You can test the headlight relay, by 'carefully' attaching jumper wires from the socket to the relay...using only wires to pins 1,2, and 4. On pin 3 "of the relay" (careful, not the socket), connect a wire from pin 3 of the relay and ground it to engine ground. Take care to make sure the ground wire on pin 3, does not come in contact with any of the other pins 1,2, or 4 (or you'll either blow the 40A main fuse, or the the relay secondary points). You should hear/feel the relay primary energize, and the headlights should come on. These headlights are high current draw, so make sure your connections are sound, wire strong enough. If correct, the relay is good.

    Let me know what the results are of above, because it gets more complicated if we have to go further.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    the way I'm reading his posts, he's getting no power to the relay.

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  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2011
    If #1 test above does not have power, then pull and check the 40A main fuse. That is what supplies power to pins 2 & 4 on the relay socket.
  • tobias1tobias1 Posts: 1
    wow thanks alot i was having the same problem ,now if i only had a fuse box cover that would be great
  • I am having a problem with my 1990 Camry. The dome light doesn't work. I have tried replacing the bulb and fuse that is under the hood.

    My dash lights are also dim when the car is idle, they brighten up when I press the gas.

    The dash gear lights are strange also, when in park the P and R light up at the same time. The R and N lights will light up at the same time when in reverse and the Neutral light goes out when in Neutral. The drive, 2 and 1 lights are fine.

    I am assuming all of these issues are tied in together somewhere, but I am not sure. I have tried replacing most of the fuses under the hood, but that didn't fix the problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    How old is your battery?

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  • The battery is about 2 years old. The altenator is about 5 years. This problem has been going on for quite a while, since before I changed the battery and altenator. In the past year, I changed out the negative battery cable and the ground. I have had both battery and altenator tested within the last month or so at Advance Auto and both came back fine.

    There are other things dash related that might help diagnose the problem. The cruise contol doesnt come right on. When I hit the button, it takes about 10 or so minutes before it activates.

    When I turn on the A/C or heat, the first 2 fan speeds do not work, I can only use the 2 higher speeds. The air and heat also seem to dont blow the way they should unless my foot is pressing the gas, same reaction as the dash lights.
  • danspinelldanspinell Posts: 10
    edited April 2011
    I'm wondering if the problem could be the underhood fuse box itself or the wires connected to it. It seems like that is what everything has in common.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Yeah I was also thinking maybe a corroded fuse box (behind the box) or some bad grounding...maybe engine to frame ground strap?

    And I have to say I don't have a lot of confidence in Advance Auto diagnostic reports regarding the alternator/battery situation. On the other hand, I don't think the alternator/battery per se are the issue here. But you shouldn't have such voltage drops at idle.

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  • When I replaced the negative battery cable, I also replaced the engine to frame ground wire. I have tried searching the web for the under hood fuse box but have had no luck, any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    All fuse boxes, relays, etc are located on the left side under the dash. I don't see anything underhood on this year and model.

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  • My under hood fuse box is bolted to the frame between the battery and the air filter housing.
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