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Chevrolet Cobalt Electrical Problems



  • Hi, I'm having a very similar issue on my 07 Cobalt.
    After Dealership replaced Fuel pump Twice! It ran badly and would stall out.
    Then the Windshield wipers would go into Insanity mode.
    The dealer said "Replace the Fuse Box."
    $500 dollars later, Im broke.
    I want my money baack!!
    Did you have any luck?

  • andra4andra4 Posts: 2
    Did you ever get any response? I am having the same problems and response for my 2006 Cobalt.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    Hello Andra4,

    I'm sorry that you are experiencing an issue with your vehicle. May I be of some assistance to you? If you would send me, your full name, address, phone, VIN and the name of the dealership you are working with to (attn: Marlea) I‘ll do my best to research your concern and find a resolution.

    Marlea Wilson
    GM Customer Care
  • andra4andra4 Posts: 2
    I tried to go to this site but it shows it as a URL that is available for purchase. Is there another way to reach you?
  • I have an 05 Chevy cobalt. Was driving it on the freeway and as soon as I got off it shut off on me. It turns over but will not start. It is throwing no codes at all. But it has no power to the fuse box under the passenger side by the radio. Any ideas why its doing this? Anyone know? Please help. I have been without a car for over two weeks and even the mechanic has no idea.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    Hi - it should be socialmedia at Replace the word "at" with the "at" sign in email addresses. Our graphic for that isn't working at the moment.


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  • Your sputter and start issues are exactly what was happening to ours around 60K. We did the plugs, took good car of the cobalt. Anyway really scary one day pulling out of a parking lot, making a left and gave it some gas and sputter sputter (cars approaching, ahhh!) then it kicked in and went. So, that was it for us, we sold but not before finding the cause. Here is what it was, the issue was the coil packs, they deliver the charge to make the spark plugs fire. As explained to us the part the generates the charge was ok but it runs through a plastic holder and given the proximity to the block the plastic can break down and cause a short (so the associated plug will not fire or fire intermittently). Dealer showed us the old parts, it is bound to fail for everyone at some point. Fix was about $170 dollars and as explained should be good for many miles to come. Ran the car for about 2 months after that until sold. Also had the stereo speaker issue others here have noted, never looked into that.

    We have a grand cherokee now, it has issues as well. These static plastic blocks in the power window mechanism, no joke with a metal cable running over them,,, yeah that will last, they are failing one at a time. Transmission issues all well documented here on Edmunds. Neighbor runs a late 80's F150, manual 4 speed, has some rust issues but the thing has out lasted our last 2 modern vehicles. We've pretty much thrown in the towel on getting any type of reliable life out of any modern vehicle. Good Luck!
  • bktom2bktom2 Posts: 1
    My wife's 05 Cobalt's stereo stopped putting out sound. The radio lights up and appears to be working fine. (I can switch stations, insert cd's, etc but NO sound) I found a blown Amplifier fuse in the passenger side console fuse panel and when I replaced it, it immediately blew. Obviously a short somewhere, but where? I checked another site that mentioned the amplifier power wire leaves the back of the fuse panel and over a metal bracket that can, in time wear through the wires protective coating causing a short. Has anyone else ever heard of this? If so, where exactly is the bracket, and how do I gain access to it?
  • I have a 2005 chevy cobalt and I would greatly appreciate any advice I can get. When it is really cold outside my car don't want to start or it will die once I start to slow down and then the other day the gas pedal got stuck to the floor. I took it to auto zone cause the engine light was on but it wouldn't read anything. It has also locked up on me where I couldn't open the doors. I had to go to the window. In order to get it to start I have to smack close to the CD player near the passenger side.
  • This car has been a piece of trash. It has had recalls, problems upon problems. A/C problems which somehow repaired tehmselves with the steering coloumn recall. Which the dealership said had nothing to do with it. Of course they also broke the part the turns my blinker off after you turn. Then it had the fuel pump leak which the dealership said was the worst one they had seen. They were amazed it had not caught fire. Funny cause I had taken it to them 3 times because my gas mileage had become so bad being told all 3 times nothing was wrong. Yeah that was the horrible gas leak. Now the last 3 months it has started trying to die when i pull up to a stop sign. Hmmm after researching the other problems of Cobalt owners figured it was the throttle controller. NEEDS A RECALL AGAIN! Sure enough coming home the other night my6 engine light came on. Guess what the code said. engine throttle controller. Oh did I also mention I just had a $450 bill to repair an a/c line that just cracked into. The car that keeps on sucking money. When is Chevy going to give us $10,000 off a new car? Can I apply it to a FORD? Signed so very disappointed
  • Oh i also forgot to tell you about the radio sound. How one or two of the speakers will go on and off at will. how the lights on the dash dim at will even at night. So you know there are electrical issues also
  • I have 2005 Chevy Cobalt, original owner that has had many problems with the electrical on this make and model. The comments from other owners are spot on, the analog gauges have on numerous occasions gone from min to max all on their own, the brake dashboard light and abs lights come on at off at the same time as the gauges needles going left and right. Now the radio won't turn off! Even with the key out of the ignition! In order to try to fix this I have been reading all of the complaints from similar owners and this is appalling to have GM not stand by the obviously recall-able electrical issues! For some reason I was able to turn the thing off after tapping/smacking close to the CD player. Now I am concerned that the next issue will be safety related. Anyone know what is causing these electrical glitches?
  • my 2007 back right backup/brake light comes on and goes off at will. also, there has been several mention the spearkers going on and off at will so does mine, but that is a 2007 cobalt
  • WEll I wrote this message the other day and posted it but apparantly it did not get to the queue. First, this car is a bust. How many recalls??? How many more are needed??
    The car has been hesitating for a few months when you pull up to a stop light it tries to die. I am not using some cheap gas I run Shell. WEll, I did some research on this site and have come up with the new Cobalt problemn:Throttle body/sensor. Sure enough on the way home the other night the engine light came on. Error reading Throttle body. ugh. First recall, took my car to Chevy dealer told them my gas mileage had dropped significantly. they told me that there was nothing they could find I took it in 3 times before the recall came out and then that same dealer told me that my car was the worst fuel leak they had seen. Hmmm it was a wonder I had not caught fire. Well then there was the problem of the heater going out, blinkers not working I was told it was the steering colomun. Thank God the recall came out on that, at first they told me it did not pertain to my car. Well when they fixed that my heater started working??? the blinkers started working but now they won't turn off. just a minor irritaion on that. Then the a/c line broke and I had to pay $450 to have that fixed. NOw the throttle body error. Too much Chevy give us a new Ford car!
  • i have had many of the same problems i have read about on here. mine is a 2008. my power steering has been out for a while. i did file a complaint and tried to research more information. my car was not covered under the recall for power steering problems. the only recall i have received is for the ignition locking up, which is about the only thing i havent had a problem with so far. i read a post someone had made on a site about being able to clean some of the parts in the steering column and that it helped. i havent been able to find that post again though. it burns me up that we pay notes on a vehicle that has the potential to get us killed. i cant afford to have the stupid thing fixed. with the wide range of year models having so many similar problems, there should have been recalls on the car itself, give us what we have paid for it and let us move on instead of pouring good money into these horrible deathtraps.
  • well now my key has started sticking the throttle body light has come on twice since the first time. UGH Wonder why Chevy doesn't reply to mine. Cause I have had so mnay problemms with the dang car.
  • Thank God I am ok, But I don't have to worry about this piece of crap any longer. Someone hit me last Monday night and it is TOTALLED! I am going back to FORD! I did not have any problems with the 9 new vehicles out of 12 that I had with them. Yipeee no more CHEVY!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,319
    So the Chevy protected you well enough that you didn't get hurt in any way yet the car was totaled. Sounds like it did a good job in the accident.

    Good luck with your Fords.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • writerwriter Posts: 121

    Ignition Switch Parts

    I am driving a 2010 Cobalt XFE (a cheap model with manual transmission designed for high mileage).

    Early in March, 2014 I my ignition switch broke. The car was running and I could not turn the key far enough to shut it off. Eventually, by carefully moving the key around (avoiding strain that might bend or break the key), I found that I could at least get the key out. But there was no way to shut off the electrical system.

    I eventually found that if I let the car run down to its slowest idle, I could put it in 1st gear and
    carefully let out the clutch to stall the motor. The electrical system was still active, but at least fuel was not being wasted.

    Luckily, I was at home in the underground parking (another reason to stop the engine from running unnecessarily), so I called the dealership and arranged to bring it in for repair, and then prepared the car by unloading as much of my property as possible.

    Putting the key back into the ignition switch and re-starting the car were not problems. I drove the car to the dealership in the early afternoon and explained the problem. We expected that it would be done early next day, and it was.

    It was billed as a warranty repair with $100 Cdn deductible.

    Warning signs: I can remember at least once that I had difficulty shutting off the ignition in the car. I had decided to look into it, but I eventually forgot about it. That had happened probably around a year earlier. It might have happened a second time, but I am not sure about that. I would call that, at most "infrequent".

    The invoice lists the work as follows:

    Complaint: "Check and report on unable to turn off ignition - GMPP T/P $100.00 deductible - $114.95 Diagnosis plus tax if not GMPP."

    Cause: "(2F) Jammed Ign Cylinder...Tumbler bar fell apart... and key badly worn 5430040"

    Correction: "Replace ignition lock cylinder and recode to key code. Also cut new key. Free-up and remove jammed cylinder...unable to rotate cylinder...Auth by GMPP"

    "1 x 20869121 Cylinder 111K2 $117.26
    1 x 15824471 Key KeyS2C $24.28"

    My final billed cost was the agreed $100 Cdn + taxes covering the deductible.

    I can see this is clearly related to the ignition problems other people are having. Ironically, I have always kept the ignition key I use on a separate key tag because I live in a Condo and need to have the car key separate from the key to open the garage door (which is locked at night). So even without knowing about that advice I had complied with the recommendation.

    I have no particular complaint about the handling of the situation overall. I do have one question. Does anyone know about the replacement part? If it is no better than the one that I had before, does that mean that I can expect problems, say in another four years?

  • brian1993brian1993 Posts: 1

    My car has had this problem since 40k miles. It now has over 70k miles. Ill be driving down the interstate and the power steering will go out. This isnt safe, but when I called GM they said "tough luck". Report your problem to NHTSA at 18883273246 if they receive enough complaints GM will be forced to issue a recall.

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025

    A reporter would like to speak to an owner of a GM car who has had a recent experience with a dealer service department during recalls. If you own a GM car, even one that was not included in the recent recalls, and you've been able to make a service appoint with no problem, or if the recalls have complicated your ability to make a service appointment, please send your daytime contact info to no later than Wednesday, Aug 6, 2014 at 4 p.m. PT/7 p.m. ET.


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  • While I'm sorry that so many people have had problems with your Chevy Cobalt's, I am relieved to see that I'm not the only one that is having issues with this model. I drive a 2009 Cobalt with 96K on it and after reading all of the issues that people have had with this car over the years I feel lucky that I've gotten 96K out of this car without more problems.

    The main issue that I have with this Cobalt is on occasion it stalls at stop lights and stop signs. It doesn't happen all of the time but it happens enough of time to make me think that maybe one time it will happen and I won't be able to re-start the car, or maybe the engine will stall while the car is moving and I won't have any power. Within the last 3K miles I changed the spark plugs myself and cleaned the air intake with aerosol cleaner and q-tips, being very careful that I didn't touch the metal flap that controls the air intake. I had my wife push down the gas pedal so the air intake flap would open up and I was able to clean it very good. That remedied the problem for the past couple of months.

    The car is having the start and stop problem intermittently. There are no other problems associated with the car as other people describe, such as the radio, door locks or AC.

    I read in another forum that an owner had the exact same problem that I'm describing and the dealer said that it was ECM, and that even though the car was out of warranty Chevy was required under federal law to replace the part at no charge to the owner. I'm wondering if anybody else has heard of this or had their Cobalt's ECM replaced under this program?

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    A reporter is looking for owners of Cobalts, G5s and Ions who have not yet gotten their ignition-switches replaced. Please email before 11/21/14 to share your story.


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  • So my Chevy's engine decided to shut off while i was driving home today from the store with my 6 month old daughter. Never been so scared in my life.! Lost all traction while going down the hill near the bogs and swerved into the oncoming lane while there was a Ford truck headed right towards me. Thank goodness he had turned in time. Then i had to let all the cars behind me go around because my car was just sitting in the middle of Old Barnstable. When i finally got my car to turn back on the engine was super loud and was shaking the whole front end of my car. I turned it off and then restarted it. Blinkers wont ding when i turn them on but the arrows still flash, hazard lights wont stay on unless i literally hold the button down while driving, engine check light is on, and front dash says ENGINE POWER REDUCED. Does anybody on here know anything about cars? I went to Auto Zone and they told me that i need to replace my throttle position sensor. What does this mean? Troubleshooting P2135 Definition: Throttle position sensor (TPS) 1-2 correlation Explanation: The ECM has detected that TPS 1 and TPS 2 disagree more than 4.5 percent for less than 1 second Probable cause: Poor electrical connection or Failed TPS. My friends husband said it could also be the alternator though. Somebody please help me! I need to get the right thing fixed the fist time and done as soon as possible. I'm still currently on maternity leave and don't have much money to spend. And now I'm terrified to drive anywhere with my baby.
  • briannapbriannap Posts: 1
    I have a 2010 cobalt and I absolutely hate it! After all the recalls have been "fixed" I'm still having problems. About a week ago my car wouldn't start and we figured out that the transmission fuse had blown. Once we replaced it worked for a little bit until we had to replace it again. Until today we went to the grocery store came back out and it started fine. Stopped at the gas station and started fine. As we were leaving the gas station it died and we replaced the fuse but as soon as I turned the key the fuse blew. Now it won't start and keeps blowing every fuse we put in. This is our only vehicle and now it won't start. Someone please help!
  • I am at my wits end. My 2008 Cobalt has become dangerous to drive. I will be driving down the road and all of a sudden my gauges start flicking, my display flashes "power steering" "low fuel" "traction" randomly. The steering wheel jerks. I can barely keep it on the road. I cant tell how fast Im going or how much fuel I have. I've read lots of reports online that people have similar problems, but no solutions. My car guy cant figure it out, and the Chevy place wants $500 to look at it. This is my first, and definately my last Chevy. Help!
  • I have had all these electrical problems for the past 3 years in my 2009 cobalt. I initially took it to the dealer while it was still under warranty but they couldn't find anything. My power steering goes out, the gauges start freaking out, the steep goes up and down, the ac goes out, the engine and my security light goes off (and I don't have a security system in my car)Now that it is no longer under warranty I have been paying out of pocket trying to figure out what is wrong. The dealerships have not been any help. I have gotten all of the recalls done (the ignition switch twice!) and have always gotten regular oil changes and maintenance. They just tell me that I have to pay for a diagnostic again which is $100 an hour! I wrecked my car 6 months ago very bad. The only reason is was not totaled out was because the airbags did not go off but once my mechanic (not a Chevy dealer mechanic) looked at it he showed me the airbag sensor and it was completely moved and demolished! I even took pictures of it and everyone I have talked to has said the airbags DONT EVEN WORK! I told this to the dealer and he said that my mechanic is lying but obviously he and all the others I have talked to are not lying. This cobalt is incredibly dangerous and I would not recommend anyone buy one! After all of the problems and rude and expensive dealers I've delt with I will never buy another Chevy again. I don't even want to trade it in because I would be afraid that someone else would get injured from this dangerous vehicle. 
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