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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Problems



  • subhisubhi Posts: 1
    My Nissan quest 2000 does not heat. AC also does not work. I do not worry about ac now. But heating does not work atall. Any suggestions about what should I check. Appreciate your help.
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    Please provide a little bit more information - does the engine get up to normal operating temperature? If not, you may have a thermostat that is stuck open, not allowing enough heat to build up to heat the interior.

    Do you have an electronic heat control (this may be a dumb question if all Quest models have electronic heat / AC) or manual control? If electronic, it may be the control unit. If manual, it could be a control flap that is stuck open or closed.

    Have you had heat in the past (since you have owned the Quest) and no longer have heat? If yes, see above. If no, are you operating the heat control properly (another dumb question, but some problems are user error - I'll give you the benefit of the doubt, though and assume that you are using the controls properly).

    My bet is that it is a control unit problem since you have no heat or AC. Does the fan blow air out of the vents OK?
  • I have read with much interest the problems you were having as I was experiencing the almost identical problems with my 94 Mercury Villiger LS. It has 185K on it and when running 20-30 minutes (either on hiway or idle) it would cut out, stammer and die (or run like a clogged cat conventer for a few miles then die. After cooling down 40 min or longer it would start up until warm and do same thing.

    On a 94 the OBD1 reader interface is inside the engine and guess what, even the biggest Mecury dealer in the area did not have a connection for it. So using Haynes manuel made a jumper wire to read code on dash, It gave a 32 (egr control soleniod). Took to Ford and they said that was bad so order new one for $107 and ended up paying 20% restocking fee as the old one in fact tested good. Dealer said fuel pump was prob, bought at Autozone for 132 and installed it, not the prob. Finally after reading post #1566 I called junk yard to see if one I could test with as Ford stated remanufactered distributor at 755.83 and O'reillys/Autozone was 189.99 reman w/ lifetime warranty. When talking to the ol timer at the salvage yard I told him about the post John wrote and he said one way to test it was to get the van warm until it started acting up again, then very slowly pour luke warm water over it and see if it smooths the idle back to normal (or if it will start normally if it has already died) and if it does and then warms back up and you redo the test then either your distributor is bad or the ignition control module located near the dist. is bad. In most cases it would be the ignition control module which is about $65 aftermarket w/ lifetime warranty.

    In my case I tool the ICM off and to O'reillys and they tested in good about 4 times until it warmed up and then it would test bad. It would cool off, test good 3-4 times and then when hot it would be bad. I changed it out and have driven about 150 miles without any problems. So if anyone else has simular problems it may be worth looking there first as the dist & the ign control module does somehow regulate the timeing/fuel injectors and when malfunctioning it dumps more fuel making it run lean and causing the above mentioned problems. To late to save me or John much money but maybe it can save you. PS..After I cleared the intial code (32) it came back on with a 21 (ignition system fault)which is when I checked the dist. & control module.

    Of note: I also replaced the rotor cap ($6) on the dist. as the lil metal tab was not rivited in place anymore, (i didn't figure it boucing around helped and who knows that may have been the problem?) Good luck all!
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    All my cars and trucks have to pass emissions testing. I discovered the hard way that ignition caps and rotors can be at the root of emissions problems stemming from contact and post surfaces that need to be debrided and thoroughly cleaned, if not replaced.
  • carzzzcarzzz Posts: 282
    1997 Mercury Villager was sort of unwilling to start! As i tried to start the engine, it could not turn on. I tried again, i floored the gas pedal, and then it revs under 500 for 1 sec and then it revs up slowly. The battery was replaced 2 months ago! Is it the spark-plugs problem? they have another 6K miles to go! any ideas or advice? Thx
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    It sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Unless you have a lot of tools and equipment, you might want to take the van to a shop.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Faulty ground, perhaps related to the maintenance work done? Maybe check the battery cables at the battery and at the cable ends that you can get to.


    Try stopping by an auto parts store that checks engine codes for free and see if any codes are stored.


    Try asking in the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion too.


    Steve, Host
  • Steve, thanks for the reply. I cleaned the battery terminals, they were not really that bad. I replaced all the ignition parts after this engine dying problem started. I will try to get the codes checked, is there a way to check the codes without special equipment?


    Thanks again,
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    There may be a trick with turning the key on and off and counting the flashes or something, but someone with a '98 or earlier will have to address that.


    Steve, Host
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    Autozone auto parts stores-- In my location, they gladly read stored codes when requested. You might give them a try in your area.
  • wtd44, Thanks! I will give them a call.
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    A while back, Autozone read the codes for me on a Nissan Pathfinder I owned, and helped me track the problem to a faulty gas cap. I bought one from them, and the problem was solved. It took a couple days for the light to go out after the cap was changed.
  • Just an update on the codes, Atuozone did read the codes but no codes were found. :(


  • mn_patmn_pat Posts: 67
    My Quest is have issues at startup. It is getting progressively worse. The crank time is getting longer and when it starts the driver must tap the accelerator to get it running smoothly. Also, on the occasions that it starts extra hard there is an odor of gas. Gas mileage is also down, the last tank was 14.83 mpg. This isn't that much lower than the 17-19 mpq winter avg, but WOW that is bad.

    My mechanic said it sounds like a fuel pressure regulator. Does that sound reasonable? Have other quest owners seen this type of issue. The mechanic said the fuel pressure regulator is a 4.2 hour job, or in other words $386. DANG!!!!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Does it help to turn the key to on and let it sit for ~30 seconds (to pressurize the fuel system) before you crank it?

    Steve, Host
  • mn_patmn_pat Posts: 67
    Steve, We have not tried that. It is primarily my wife's cars, I will suggest that to her.

    Are you suggesting that if the hard starting dosent happen if I/we/her give the system time to pressurize and then the vechile starts normally that it is a bad fuel pressure regulator? In your experience have you seen this costing almost 400 bones to replace?

    I am trying to be proactive, as this is my wife's car, I shutter to think of the phone call I would get if the car strands her somewhere with 3 kids.......

  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I'm not a wrench turner, but some cars seem to start easier if you wait a short while after turning on the ignition, but before you crank it. Ten seconds should be plenty.

    I'm not sure if anything will be proven by testing it this way, but it may trigger some help by someone who does know. I'm curious as to why a bad pressure regulator wouldn't cause roughness driving around (the gas mileage seems to be your only other symptom after it cranks, eh?). I'm guessing your mechanic ruled out a bad injector, fuel pump, cracked fuel line, etc.?

    It certainly looks like a dinky part :-):


    Steve, Host
  • mn_patmn_pat Posts: 67
    I hope its not a bad injector, we already had injector work done under warrantee. I know that dosent mean that it cant be broken again, but it sound like an expensive repair.

    Other than roughness at startup and bad mileage there is an occasional odor of gas. The mechanic did mention the possibility of a cracked fuel line.

    I'm bringing it in on Friday night. I trust my mechanic, but I like to be informed before I bust open my wallet for a huge car repair. Thanks for you advice.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Try asking over in Got a Quick, Technical Question? too. Some real techs hang out there.

    Steve, Host
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    I have a 2000 Villager. I would suggest making the uncomfortable effort to go over "every inch" of the gasoline lines from engine to tank, looking for a split, or bad junction. Do it also with the engine running and perhaps another person standing by for safety. I don't get under running vehicles without somebody helping me! You just may find a leaking gas line. Get a copy of the Haynes manual. It might make finding things far easier. I always start with the manual, then go to the car. Good luck.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Hey, we smoked out a real tech in here too. Thanks, Wtd. (although I'm not excited about crawling under my running Quest, especially since there's so little clearance under there to begin with).

    Steve, Host
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    Major good point! Maybe a set of ramps for the front wheels, or a couple of hydraulic floor jacks would be in order. Safety should dictate the procedure, at any rate. No sense getting hurt.
  • mn_patmn_pat Posts: 67
    I got the diagnosis from the mechanic....

    It was the fuel pressure regulator. So, $354 later I can rest easy that my wife wont be stranded somewhere with the kids.

    The van has 54K on it this is the 2nd repair I've had done, both have been on the fuel system. I had a fuel injector replace under warranty and now the fuel pressure regulator.

    Thanks for all the help- Pat
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Thanks for letting us know Pat.

    Maybe you need to try a different service station!

    Steve, Host
  • tsnyder5tsnyder5 Posts: 1
    GREAT GUESS .........probably the power transistor (ign. module)
    common problem with villager/quest
    "runs good cold, craps out as it warms up"
    usually trips no codes in obd1 systems
    usually costs around $40.00
  • I hope someone here has an idea.
    It is a 1995 villager and the only way to start the vehicle is to pump the gas repeatedly during cranking. It is especially worse during cold weather becomeing progressively better the hotter it get. In the winter here in Ohio it nearly kills the battery at times. Allowing and waiting for the fuel pressure to come up does not help.
    It has been to a dealer as well as 2 non-dealer machanic's. With no improvement at all. (unless you count my loss of money as thier improvement)LOL
    The injectors have been cleaned and no one has found any other problem at any of the shops.
    I have checked all the codes with none stored. All sensors have been "back probed" and all voltages are in range and the voltages vary with thottle change.
    I am out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks in advance.
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    It almost sounds to me like a fuel pump issue. Have you had that tested to see if you have adequate pressure? IIRC, I had the fuel pump replaced in my 1993 Villager for the same reason.
  • Thanks kymike, did you also have a good running engine after it was started? Mine runs fine after it starts. :)
    I am not sure if the fuel pump was ever checked.
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    Yes, it ran OK once started.

    Please report back once you confirm that this was the issue or you find another solution.
  • gmiquelagmiquela Posts: 2
    I don't know if anybody have a similar problems that I experienced. Initially whenever I started the engine and put it in reverse/drive the car will not move and just shake. I have to turn the ignition OFF and restart so that it will move until such time that the car will just stalled and the check engine will lights ON. I brought the car to vespia and technician told me that the transmission and solenoid are bad. Agreed to replace the transmission and solenoid that cost me 1650.00. After driving the car home and test it for an hour power starts to degrade and stalled. Brought it back to vespia and tech do the tune-up, replaced the distribution cap but that didn't fix my problem. Decided to bring the car to the dealer and recommended to have the shaft sensor and fuel injector clean up that again gonna cost me 400.00 to my Nissan Quest GXe 1996. Any advice is appreciated.
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