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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Problems



  • Might need a fuel pump. I just bought a '95 Villager with 187K on it and it was hard to start. Also started hearing a humming noise coming from underneath van, which I found out was a sign that the pump was going bad. Replaced it and the van starts immediately now.

  • :sick: We have had the worst summer ever with car issues. Please help. It all started with a mechanic that needed money and created problems we did not have for our car. We brought it to him for a shifting/power problem. He determined it was lack of fuel getting to engine and replaced the fuel pump/fuel filter(we never had starting problems), spark plugs/wires(had just been done!)for about $600. We left his shop and the van was hesitating horrible shifting up from 2nd to 3rd. We took it back and he said he really wanted to change the timing belt for another $400. We left not to return. We ended up eventually after a bunch of mechanic guesses determined the shifting problem was from the MAF screen was clogged with debris. We had the $10 screen replaced and it drove good as new.

    The van has 87,000 miles on it. This is now 2 months after the first mechanic ripped us off. It was never fuel pump/filter, plugs and wires from what we can tell. Now we are having a starting problem. We found a great mechanic but he says he has ruled everything but the fuel pump out. What do we do? Have any of you had a bad fuel pump? Not to mention one that was just put in for no reason? We are sick over it and just don't know where to turn. The fuel pump he put in was a Master E2067.

    :confuse: The symptoms are it just cranks and cranks and eventually turns over. There is definitely a buzzing noise that happens under the van when you turn the key.

    :cry: We did contact the original mechanic but the warranty on the part is only good if he replaces it which he won't do for free. He also says since other mechanics have touched the engine since him, how can we prove it is his work?

    :mad: After investing $1400 worth of useless work trying to find a clogged MAF screen, do we keep this vehicle? It has 87K and we have loved it otherwise. It is that hard to figure out what goes wrong with these? We know we have a timing belt to do soon and with the money in it, we just are not sure.

    So, if any of you have any fuel pump experience or at least starting problems, please let us know.
  • stigmatastigmata Posts: 10
    My fuel pump went out on my 95 villager. I was stopping and it began to hesitate and then just died. My 99 fuel pump is also going. It almost never starts on the first time. I wouldnt wait, because when it goes, you're stuck.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 1,003
    I had starting problems on my 2001 Villager. Very hard to start, would start then die, unles you kept your foot on the gas. The problem ended up being the fuel pressure regulator.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • I recently bought a '95 Villager with 187K on it. After the first week, I noticed a humming noise that grew louder and louder and sounded like ti was coming from underneath the vehicle on the driver side. Turned out to be the fuel pump. The van had been hard to start as well. Replaced it and all is well now.
  • The following has happened to me twice: I park the car. When I come back a short while later, the engine does not turn over AT ALL, as if the battery is totall dead (no sound at all), however, the radio and lights are fine. I try this a few times over the next 1/2 hour, no luck. I come back a few hours later and it starts fine, no problem whatsoever.

    Exactly the same sceanior has happened twice over the last 2 weeks. The only other time the engine did not turn over at all like this was a few years ago when the alarm was triggered (no alarm was triggered this time).

    Any ideas as to what the problem is? Thank much for your help.
  • We had a similar issue on our 95 Villager a few years ago. Turned out to be a relay (under the hood). There are two identical relays. The dealer swapped them until the ordered one came in. Some other items did not work during this time, but I forget which. It was things like radio and wipers.
  • Wow, wasn't expecting anyone to have been through the same experience. Thanks a lot for the information!
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 1,003
    Well our Villager is up to it again. Cranks and starts but then dies unless you keep your foot on the gas. Same problem we had before they replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I think that was about a year ago, I wonder if the new part is bad already?
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 1,003
    Well, put the fuel pressure regulator in last night. The screws were hard to get at, but it's in. Van is running fine. BTW, the part I ordered online (, ended up being a genuine Nissan part. $90.00 including shipping compared to $210.00 at the dealer.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • When I start the van it starts sputtering... the rpms go up and down and as it gets low it starts to die... unless i hit gas....

    what could be the issue?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Need more info like year, model, miles, etc.
  • This is what mine is doing! Mine is a 2000 Nissan Quest GXE, approx 75,000 miles. Any guidance would be appreciated.


  • 1997 Nissan Quest...

    142,000 miles
  • wolf1469wolf1469 Posts: 1
    Well folks, seems mine has joined the list of vehicles with the same problem. Starts while cold, runs up to about normal operating temp then spits, sputters and dies. So far, have replaced cam sensor, O2S sensor, and plugs. BTW for those not getting accurate codes, the plugs are very specific with this model engine. (Found that out the hard way). I have been told there is a TSB that covers the issue recommending the fuel pump check valve be replaced. Any others already done this? :mad:
  • rparrottrparrott Posts: 1
    We have just purchased a 1993 Mercury Villager LS with 65000 miles on it. Front or rear air was not working and I found the solder fix and my husband and I fixed that. It does not have any sound coming out of the speakers. I bought a replacement unit for the rear but it did not do anything. I will wait on that. I have a 2000 Isuzu Trooper with 110000 miles on it until 120000 miles on it . So while it is still in warranty so we thought we would go ahead and sell it. I have had to put a new transmission in the Trooper at 80000 miles and it did not cost me a penny. That is the only time it was in the shop. So at this point I'm not sure I want to sell it. My new problem started yesterday when I had the over drive turned on it started acting like it was trying to jump out of gear or stalling. When I turned the over drive off it cleared up. Today on the way to breakfast it did the same thing along with a miss ever once in while at idle. I was concerned I would not get it back home but we did. Only after turning off the over drive again. Please let me know if any one has had this problem. Watch for a Villager fully loaded for sale in Texas.
  • sb4774sb4774 Posts: 3
    I was backing up and the driver side door was left open. Next thing i knew, it caught on a fencepost and was bent backwards like it wasn't supposed to be. So now the door is bent on its hinges and it will not shut. My question is about the engine. For some reason when I bent the door the engine shut off, and now it will not start. The starter is working, so there is no battery problem, but the engine will not run. Could this have something to do with an "auto shut off mechanism" built into the car? If someone would offer advice on how i could get this thing started it wouldbe greatly appreciated.
  • haropharop Posts: 59
    Nothing to worry about, here is the "copy-paste" from 97 Quest User's Manual :

    Inirtia Fuel Shut-Off Switch

    The switch can be triggered on accidents or even on bump.
    If the vehicle cranks but does not start, then:

    1. Turn the key in the ignition OFF.
    2. Check Under the vehicle for leaking fuel....
    3. If you do not see or smell fuel, push down the red reset button on the fuel pump shut-off switch.
    4. Turn the ignition key ON (not start) for a few seconds then turn it off.
    5. Check for fuel leak or smell, and if no problem then
    START the engine.

    Now you wander where is the "Inirtia Fuel Shut-Off Switch".
    It is next to the parking brake pedal, on the left side,
    and is visiable from drivers seat.

    The above 5 step procedure is safe and important to follow.
    If you skip 4, then it may not start, because you need to
    run your fuel pump for a few seconds to get fuel pumped
    into engine. In fact you may need to do this more than once.
    You will hear fuel pump running.

    Good Luck,
  • Hi All,

    I have a 99 Quest with 130k miles on it. It pretty much runs fine except in the last year or so things are just starting to "go" on it. The speedometer would act up after tons of rain by jumping from 0 to 90 while driving. Then, after a few days it was fine. Now it completely stopped working and my OD light flashes when I first start it up and my CEL is always on. It used to come on and off eventually (i really think it's gas quality related). Anyway, the one thing that it does which is troubling as I'm driving around with 3 kids is that it will suddenly start to act as if it's going to stall or not getting gas. I can be driving along and the gas pedal feels spongy and the car does not respond to my giving it more gas. It just starts to sputter and shake like it's going to die but it doesn't. I pull over, it recovers, and when I start up again it does it again. Eventually, it stops altogether and the car runs fine.

    I've called the car repair shop and they tell me that since they can't replicate the issue it's hard for them to fix it. I don't understand this--what happened to the days when you said, "it makes this noise whenever i do x" and the mechanic said, 'oh.. it may be a zippy doodle.." and that was that???

    We are at the point where we are wondering if the car is not reliable and if we should buy a new van. I like this one but can't be wondering if I'm going to stall out somewhere and the car certainly isn't worth tons of money for repairs (right??). Any help is greatly appreciated.

  • I have had the same problem. 98 Mercury villager 269000 kms. I spent 1600 dollars from a less than repetuable nation wide store/garage. Changed plugs wires, rotor/cap,fuel injection throttle body flush, nothing worked out. Told to change catalict convertor, still not right, finally took to ford dealer and put on a oxygen sensor, still not right, finally paid for a ford diagonstic, came up that i needed a knock sensor, still not right, ford had to call the ford hotline for answers, ford paid for a rental for 3 days before they figured what the problems was- a ground wire was loose on the ecm (computer) ford fixed it for free. symtoms were - started fine when cold ran fine until it warmed up, them it shook and sputtered, rpm gauge started to dance no power at all, never died on me but couldnt get up hills , so if this sounds familiar, check ground wires to computer. best of luck.
  • aseitzaseitz Posts: 5
    We are having similar problems with our 00 Villager. Once the car is warm, the OD light will flash 16 times when you start it. It does not do this the first time you start it in the morning. The check engine light is on with a code P0500 (VSS). The speedo works just fine. Every once in a while, it will do the stalling/hesitation thing as well. If you put it in neutral when it does this and then back in drive, the problem goes away. To date, we/I have changed the VSS and have spent a bunch of time using a high dollar scanner which will let us reset the check engine light but it always comes back on right at 50 miles. It is currently in the shop for the second time. The first shop (one that I do trust) could not figure it out after 4 days. We're stuck at this point. It needs a state inspection but it will not pass with the check engine light on or with it cleared as it'll show "not ready" in the state system. Any ideas greatly appreciated! :sick:
  • aseitzaseitz Posts: 5
    Just got the car back from the second shop - who also put up the white flag. Went and changed out the transmission control module yesterday when I got home from the shop. No go. Same symptoms. The check engine light has not reappeared (YET) so maybe we'll be able to get it inspected. Will try the cruise control module next, I guess. Anyone have any suggestions? Please?
  • Well, here's what's happened. The computer was showing a "knock" code and also a speed sensor code. We changed the fuel filter which was very gunked up. TOok the car home and it still hesitated a few times. Hesitate is really not the right word. It acts exactly as it would if it ran out of gas. They checked the fuel pump and said that it was putting out the correct amount of pressure. The stalling effect is only when I'm accelerating. If I let off the gas when it acts up, it stops doing it. But, the entire episode can last several minutes. It never completely stalls.

    I just had the speed sensor replaced and it's been 2 weeks with NO issues. Crossing fingers!!!!!
  • aseitzaseitz Posts: 5
    Had to replace our battery Friday. When we replaced it, the CEL went off and actually stayed off for 271 miles. Thought we were home free and then it came back on. Drats!

    Sounds like the VSS was your issue. We replaced ours but still have the same problems. Will try yet another shop this week. Can anyone diagnose vehicles any more?
  • pegkemppegkemp Posts: 1
    did you ever get the relay's switched, and did it work?
    we have had this phantom starting problem for the past 6 years, and have replaced everything "electrical"... and I was stranded today for 3 hours... then I get in, and it starts right up... have had it towed MANY times, but it always starts for the mechanic, with no indication of a problem. If I go to the shop, and say "replace the two identical relays under the hood" will they know what I mean?
    other than that, this car has been GREAT. 213K miles and going strong.
  • My villager just started doing this this summer. And really only when we run the air conditioner. I figured it was the fuel pump but haven't got it replaced yet. Let me know what you end up finding out.
  • Hello,

    I had my 2001 Nissan Quest in the dealer service shop for 3 full days and kept going online to give them all the info out here we could find on the same exact problem. My speedometer dances or goes to 0 while I am driving and the car hesitates and sputters as if I am running out of gas as you described. I thought it used to be related to every time I had my air conditioner on. But I have turned it off in the last week and it doesn't recover like it did a month ago when this problem started happening.

    When Nissan service checked the ground wire and the speed sensor (and every other sensor) it all tested fine. They said it would have to completely fail before they know exactly what it is.

    How is your car doing now after replacing the speed sensor? Still no recurrence of the sputtering? I am ready to tell them to replace it and see how it goes.

    Thanks a lot.
  • Well, since the SS was replaced there have been NO instances of the problem again. I think it's been almost a month and I've driven several hundred miles on it. (we went on a trip, and no problems at all) I don't know if it was a combination of the SS and the fuel filter being replaced, but I think the SS did it.

    You should know that the SS when it first started going was always acting up and didn't throw the CEL on until it completely died. When I had taken it to the shop, the CEL had gone back out so they were unable to get a reading. It wasn't until the SS completely failed (stopped working at ALL) that the CEL stayed on and they told me to replace it. Your symptoms though are classic for SS. It's a relatively cheap fix, so why not go for it and hope for the best??

    Hope it works out for you!!
  • When you were having the sputtering problem, did your van also shift hard from 1-2? My uncle has a 96 with 174k and it has recently developed this odd problem. Runs fine up to full operating temperature, then the first symptom is the idle becomes erratic. After idle goes erratic, the hard shift starts. So far, he has replaced the throttle position sensor, which did not resolve the issue. And, to clarify, when I say hard shift, I mean it would make the whole van "jump" when shifting. Any help appreciated.
  • I have a 1999 Mercury Villager with 123K miles. No problems until yesterday. 3 times the motor quite, clock reset and all power seemed to be lost. The vehicle keep going after this 1-2 second kill. Looked under the hood and could not see anything on cabling that was shorting. Looking for help.
    Don Larson
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