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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Problems



  • From the electrical diagram that I read. It appears that the inhibitor relay is the problem. this relay is what energizes the seleniod and the starter. I replaced it last week ($32 from a Nissan dealer). I have not driven it very much to be 100% sure. I will update in a couple weeks.
  • Well I figured out the problem with the 95 villagers start when it whats to. Its in the ignition switch its the positive wire to the starter coil we by passed the ignition switch. Replaced it with a seperate starter switch. A little old school but it works, untill you can afford to pay $100 hr to a automotive electrical specialist . It will get you by, good luck.
  • Change the distribuitor ,after spend my time changing everything posible .ingnition wires,sparkplus, distribuitor rotor etc I change the distribuitor and ruuuunnnnn fine after 2 years now the car stop and don't start . ;)
  • Im looking for a electrical diagram, from the ignition switch to the starter coil. anyone know where i could get one?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    The Auto Repair Reference Center has Villager wiring diagrams for the '96. There's three for the starting/charging circuit (depending on whether you have anti-theft).

    I access that database online free through my public library; see the links in the Online Repair Manuals guide.

    If you can't get access, shoot me an email and I can send the diagrams to you via pdf files.

    This link has factory manuals for free download, but I didn't check to see if wiring diagrams are included.
  • bigmark1bigmark1 Posts: 5
    hi i have a 96 villager when its cold it runs flawlessly but when it warms up to normal operating temp it begins to jerk and buck and the problem gets progressively worse QUICKLY 5 min. or less it will eventually stall it can be restarted but idles very rough and the exhaust smells like rotten eggs i have pulled the trouble codes and the only one i get is a code 34 as flashed on the check engine light i am completely stumped can you please help ....thank you in advance
  • Bigmark1 I have written a lot about this very same problem. I made the mistake of spending thousands trying to fix this problem. The very best advice i could give is take it to the nissan dealer (NOT FORD) ! Ask them to do a diagnostic , and tell them to check ( the distributor photo sensor ) ask them to check for dirt build up on it! Like im said i spent tons of money from other technitions/garages before i had it towed to the nissan dealer (they found the problem in 15 min) Hope this helps.
  • My 93 Villager doesn't always want to start. If I turn the key to the on position sometimes I can hear the fuel pump(then it will start) and sometimes I can't(then it won't start). Is my fuel pump toast or is it an electrical problem? or something else?
  • If you don't hear the pump initially then there is a problem with the pump or it could be a simple wiring issue but more likely the pump is on its way out.
    I changed mine on my 97 Quest last year because my engine dogged when I first started it in the morning.(for about 3 seconds)
    Didn't cure the dogging down so I'm thinking the pressure regulator maybe stuck open a little...anyone?
    It drives fine although the it idles a tiny bit rough when warmed up to normal.
    nae borrah.
  • So was it the distributor?
  • wormdadwormdad Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Villager that has had a bad hesitation for some time now. I replaced the ignition coil, fuel pump, plugs, and wires. I thought it might be a blown head because it started overheating but I figured out the fan was not running. As for the no heat inside I changed the thermistate and it did not help. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • graham66graham66 Posts: 13
    Hey, I have a 95 villager that I'm trying to fix for my kid to drive,
    Last year I was trying to fix this same problem and thought I had it fixed by replacing the distributor with a rebuilt one.
    I had the van running fine, and it sat all winter because it was our third car, needed a brake line and rear brakes,,,and the kid did not have his liscence yet, Well I'm making sure the engine is running fine before I spend the money on the brakes.
    Though I had it but here is what is happening now.
    I ran the van for at least 40 minutes, to make sure the stumbling problem went away, and it seemed ok, The next day repeated this process.... My son noticed that the heat inside was not working.
    So , I decided to replace the thermostat, since it had been a while and the van sat all winter.
    I replaced the thermostat, and while I was at it went ahead and replace the water pump too.
    Fired things up, Still no heat, Air locked line.
    Had to remove the top and bottom hose from heater core, fill with some water, not heats ........ During this I found a very small leak in the rear heater core line, that I plan to fix.
    Ran the van like this for several hours on and off to test the engine function.
    The next day repeated this and now when the van gets up to temperature, it just stalls out.
    There check engine light comes on... If I try and start it will not start. I pulled the codes.... and got an Ignition code and cam shaft sensor.... which is in the distributor.
    I unhooked the negative side of the battery, to clear codes...( I know bad cause it clears all drivability stuff)
    The Van starts for a second with no engine code,,,,then stalls back out and sets the code.
    I gave up and let the van set over night, Morning it starts up fine,,,,ran for about 1 hour, no problems, Shut off let sit for 1 hour, Repeated started run with hood shut
    van shuts off ...
    This problem does not seem to be the same as the one I had when I replaced the distributor.....The distributor is still under warantee and I may send it back to be checked. I can't open it to check the optics, it is sealed.....
    I think there is a component that gets warm and is causing this to happen, I am at wits end with this..Just about ready to send it to the junk yard..... but I am really determined to figure this out.
    Tonight I am going to double check the grounds to the CPU, and a Relay that I read about on another forum...
    I do not want to keep buying small parts to try and solve this, I may need but a TPS
    DO you know if I can run the van with the TPS Throttle Position Sensor disconnected?
    When I have measured individual components resistance and stuff like that,, all seem fine when components are cold....Not sure what my next move might be.
  • l_sriraml_sriram Posts: 1
    I bought my 2004 Quest minivan 4 years back. Since August I have been experiencing this Starting issue. My van won't start in the morning. But after some hours if i start it will start with out any issue. I have given it to the dealer but he could not find. they even asked me to drop the vechicle for some days. Like Murphys law, during those periods it worked. When it happened last week, I went and dropped it at the dealer, he asked me to changed the battery and it worked at that time. Now it did not start today 5/5/2008. Does anyone has any suggestions where to start?
  • yca2vsyca2vs Posts: 1
    efitzgerald....I'm experencing the same problem with a '99 Nissan Quest, could I have the same problem. Also only because money can be an issue, do you know where to find the Distributor Photo Sensor, and can it be checked by another mechanic or myself.
    Can you or anyone else help me?
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Posts: 62
    These villager/quests are notorious for this, especially when they get 7-10 years old. The photo sensor is deep in the distrubutor. I could only access it when it has been taken out by a mechanic. I wouldnt recommend taken yours out. I would recommend going to a scrap yard (as a new one is $600) and have a mechanic take your old one and replace it. I paid 60 for a used one, and another 75 for a install. The van runs fine now, like i said, i spent thousands trying to find the problem from Ford, Candian tire, midas muffler after being told it could be your catalitic convertor, then finally i had it towed to a nissan dealer and in 15 minutes they said it was a dirty distrubtor, cleaned it up and it ;lasted about 9 months then it started to act up again. Went to a scrap yard and replaced it ...runs great now. By the way mine is a 98 villager with over 300,000 kms on it and running strong.
  • My 2000 villager w/ 160k miles is doing the same thing. Limped into the Nissan dealer today after replacing multiple parts myself (fuel filter, spark plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, TPS) and trying an independent garage and the Mercury dealer. The Nissan dealer said my distributor is "coming apart" down inside the engine. I am assuming a bad bearing, gear, or something. They have not replaced yet. Quoted a replacement price of $575.

    Why does it only start idling rough and stalling after it has reached normal operating temperature? What could that have to do with it?
  • shadow31shadow31 Posts: 1
    I have a mercury villager 98 with 3.0ltr. Just starting doing this, hard to start when hot. When cold she starts fine and runs fine, but when warmed up and sits for 5 min after being warmed up, she starts hard, have to depress accelerator to get going. After that she runs. I replaced plugs, cap, rotor and even the ECT that a friend suggested could be a problem. Still does the same, can it be a bad ground??

    Any help would be appreciated.

  • Found out why the van only misses when warm and gets worse the warmer it gets. The bearing was bad on the distributor. As it warmed there would be more and more play in the distributor and the timing would not be right.
  • I have a 2000 Nissan Quest that starts fine when the car is cold. But after running for twenty minutes or so if I shut it off and return in an hour it is very hard to start. And when it does start I can smell gas fumes as if too much fuel had been injected. Once the car is running it runs well it only has 95,800 miles. Can anyone help.
  • I had the exact same problem with my 2000 Nissan Quest. I took my car into my local Nissan dealership on 8/25/2008 and they diagnosed the problem as leaking fuel pressure regulator. Total cost for the repair $400.00 parts and labor.
  • The problem turned out to be a bad fuel pressure regulator. $125.00 for the part and $275.00 labor = $400.00 total parts and labor.
  • :confuse: Hello,
    Searched though this site and did not see my exact "problem". I have a 97 Villager I bought a year ago and it's run fantastic ever since. Except now. I have discovered that if it is parked with the nose lower than the rear it will not start and I can smell gas outside the car. Pump runs like a champ, fuel pressure is spot on. How on earth can a fuel injected engine flood out tike this? The only way we found to get it started was pushing it into the street and waiting an hour or so and she started up but of course belched out a cloud of smoke due to being flooded. Otherwise runs and drives just fine. I'm thinking it has to be the pressure regulator leaking. Anyone found this issue before? Thanks in advance for your time.
  • My 2000 Villager recently had both ac hoses replaced, new tires, fuel pump, brakes, the list is endless. Driving the expressway it just stalled. It would turn over, but not remain started. Mechanic couldn't find the problem. It drives rough now and I am sure it will happen again. It has under 85000 miles an been pampered. Over $2500 in repairs in the last 2 years. I can't afford to keep it, or let it go!
  • I found this same problem with my 97 Quest (except for the gas smell)
    when parked nose down on quite a steep hill.
    I found that less than a quarter of a tank caused this problem especially when it was cold.
    The pump is situated near the back of the tank so thats easy to figure.
    my 2 cents.
  • Ummm,
    Anyone else have an idea on this issue? As stated in my orginal question, the pump and pressure check out fine. It just floods if left sitting nose down at even the slightest angle, with any amount of gas in the tank. I also noticed this week that milage has gone down the tubes on this van but the engine seems to run fine and no blue or black smoke either. Throttle response is fine as well??????
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Are you sure it is flooding? I never heard of fuel injected engine flooding before?

    since you are smelling gas and losing gas mileage, you should have your mechanic look at your van.
  • eewayeeway Posts: 5
    My 1999 stalls out after about an hour. Just had a tune up done, problem persists. Local mechanic stumped. Fuel pressure is ok, new battery installed. The rear window wiper was doing crazy things when he started it up. I relayed the distributor information posted in this thread, but haven't heard back yet. Any other suggestions would be most welcome.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Since you just had it tuned up, I'd suspect the wiring. Ask your mechanic to check all the grounds. I've seen reports of the throttle position sensor getting intermittently flaky due to a bad ground. Maybe that's related to the flaky rear wiper.

    But who knows - these kinds of problems can be hard to figure out. If it's been unseasonably cold there, maybe you have a bit of water freezing in a fuel component somewhere. A bottle of gas-line antifreeze would be a cheap thing to test.

    And I've also read reports of the torque converter locking up and stalling the engine. Maybe put a transmission fluid change and pan cleaning on the todo list?

    Steve, visiting host (and lousy mechanic :))
  • First, the problem. on my 97 Villager I drove about an hour to work. Just before I arrived, the RPM started to drop and recover every 5 seconds or so. It got faster until it RPM was down up down up. It tried to stall, but I gave it gas and made it to my parking spot. After work it started like nothing wrong. I made it 45 minutes and the issue returned. This time it bucked severely until it stalled. Felt as if trying to shift 2nd to 3rd back to 2nd... jerk jerk jerk. Done. No start. I waited about 5 minutes and it started, but VERY rough and bucking. I made it about 50 feet and stalled. Let it sit this time for 15 minutes. Started but rough, though less than last try. Made it about 100 feet, and died. Left it overnight then no trouble getting it home.

    I changed the PCV valve, fuel filter (fuel pump is less than 2 weeks old). Took a test drive and after about 20 minutes it started to chug again. RPM down up down up. Made it home without stall by keeping the gas down a bit more than usual. Changed the (much needed) distributor cap and rotor. Ran fine over a week. On my way to work, fine. After work it made it 20 feet across the parking lot and... RPM down up down up stalled. VERY hard to restart. Let it idle for about 15 minutes, the drove home with little noticable issue. Only a slight dip in RPM then back up when decelerating around corners or at lights. I'm going to check the distributor photo eye tomorrow, and maybe the Idle Control valve/relays. If neither, off to the shop. I'll post what I find when I find it.
  • Search this forum for the word "relay" or "will not start" and you will see some references to relays under the hood that cause similar symptoms
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