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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Heating / Cooling



  • Hello. Is it possible for me to get an email of the Vacuum Diagram & instructions also?? Please & Thank you!!

    [email protected]
  • Hello All. My 98 Chevy Astro was not heating up front for some reason(rear was heating). So I replaced ALL the vac lines
    (which did work a few years ago) and still no heat. I even replaced the 6 port coolant valve plus the the rear vac control 2 port coolant valve (for the rear heat) and still no heat. Then I remember the events from last winter / spring leading up to it not working. (1.) we had to turn the temp control knob almost all the way into the blue (cold for the a/c side) because it was so hot in the van. (2.) We could hear a slap noise under the passenger side floor board if we turn the temp control knob to far in the blue. (3.) Then it took awhile before the heat would come back almost 5 min. It was either hot or cold no warm. So I removed the cup holder/glove box and the engine cover to gain access to the BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR mounted right under the passenger side dash between the black plastic heater core cover and the engine cover. It was lockup in the closed position(for a/c mode) The actuator is held in with (2) 5.5mm screws with a 3 wire plug. It was a $45 part at my autozone. Now the heat is working again on any temp setting. Hope this helps someone else.
  • bil253bil253 Posts: 2
    Okay, I have read numerous posts here about this heater/AC blower problem and I have changed the blower motor and fan, replaced blower resistor (twice) and the pigtail to the resistor, unit worked for most of summer, then one speed, (again!) now it does not work at all again, and it seems like the same 2 connectors on the plug going to the blower resistor are always cooked. Any suggestions? At wits end and it will be cold soon in Illinois. Thanks.
  • sortofsortof Posts: 3
    edited October 2013
    It could be (possibly not probable) Your fan could be laboring with erratic speeds that also would mean that either shorting out in the motor ( Brushes,barrings ect,)or That the fan isn't grounded well enough??/ A simple ground strap to firewall will take care of that??/ Simply that some of those fan shrouds are fiberglass and it doesn't allow the screws to do the grounding and even with the metal ones they put so much foam sealant in between the fitment area between the fan And to the firewall??/ Sometimes the that amount of resistance will send the current looking for alternate routes??/ Isolation between wires (connections at terminals) will also affect the current direction??/ Or if you only replaced the resister once since you started hunting the problem it could have been a bad resister right off the shelf ??/ Its been known to happen??/ Was it a generic ??/
  • bil253bil253 Posts: 2
    Yes, believe it was generic, purchased from Pep Boys, will try the grounding idea, being as that seems the only thing I have not tried, also seem to remember someone on another post mentioning something about soldering the connections from the pigtail rather than crimping. About ready to try and bypass with a relay and have only high speed on fan.
  • I have a 97’ GMC Safari. I have replaced the water pump, Radiator, thermostat. But what the Problem is. If I turn on the heater (to hot) I can hear the door, blend door open and close but there is no heat. And if by chance it starts blowing hot I have to fill up the radiator .

  • srdzfsrdzf Posts: 1
    I have a 95 chevy astro I changed all the vacum line blower motor blower motor resistor the condencer now my problem is that I when I put it on a/c or max a/c little air pressure is coming through the vents but it is cold what can cause this problem? Help!!!
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