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Buick Regal Electrical Problems



  • lautamalautama Posts: 1
    So, Did you ever find the solution to this problem? My Regal is doing the same thing and it's driving me crazy. The left blinker occasionally shuts the car of and other times the car wont start for 5 or 10 minutes.

    Has ANYONE found the solution to this problem?
  • after searching the internet forever, i found the resisters no where, my local radio shack gave me a name of a place, i sent my boyfriend in there, who works in the area about 60 miles from where i live, and they had them. i dont know where you are located, but i think you can go to there web site or call and have them shipped, they are in a pac of 4 for $1.37 ,thats with tax, and theres a guy on e-bay fixing them for $150.00, I soldered them in there, and my odo. is as bright as can be,the four that work the odo are the ones in the top right corner,(the 4 right in a row,i dont know what the others operate, maybe replace all 10 for that price. Abel Electronics 27201 Harper Ave., St. Clair Shores, MI 48081. the part # on my recept is, 1/4 W 150 OHM 2%,# 768249047520, hope this helps
  • no i have not checked it out , i've been working on the odo. light, which i fixed...but i have heard check the ground to the sending unit or the float is not working properly, and will have to replace the whole sending unit. i'll let you know if i figure it out , if you figure it first let me know, and if your odo light does not light up, let me know i know how to fix that for $1.37 and about a half hour of your time, simple fix.
  • regal99regal99 Posts: 4
    let me begin about the ordeal...i had the towed to the dealer..they had the car 3 and half weeks..finally they called and said it was a SHORTED RELAY STARTER....Then the car started cutting off they replaced the IGNITION car started and cut off just fine. i was out of $686.89 for all that...basically i paid for LABOR:(........had the car for 2dys the darn trans started acting funny...i could hardly get it out of park...i was so feed up with the dealedrship ordeal..i sold the car to carmax.....i hope this info help you...
  • thanks for the info, mine don't have a problem with not coming out of park or any trans issues, but i've owned it for only a few weeks.but i have heard about the shift lock on the side of the shifter going bad, maybe that was your issue. the guy that owned it before me did take it to the dealer and have the ignition switch done for $700.00. i guess all the lights come on and eventually will not hopefully i'm good on that for awhile. I dont go to the I fix it myself, just takes time researching somethings and patience.
  • You can get the resistors at Radio Shack. They are 150 ohm. There is a very good video on YouTube showing how to make the repair. I did mine start to finish and it took about 45 mins. ;)
  • Sounds like that is what I'm looking for. Do you have the link on youtube? I can seem to find the one I need.
  • I just found this forum and read a number of posts. This is my situation. My son bought a 1999 regal with 100,000 plus miles. Alot of electrical things don't work, like the horn, fog lights, ac clutch and electric cooling fans. All the fuses are good and I have replaced the micro relays and still no luck. I ran a feed from the fuse box to the cooling fans so they run when the car is running, and that was ok. But, the next day, the car wouldn't start. When the key is turned to the run position, everything comes on, but when you turn it to start, everything blanks out. You have to mess with it for awhile till it decided it wants to run. THEN, while driving, if I put the left turn signal on, it kills the motor. Now I have had problems turning the ignition switch back to the off position, so I am wondering if it isn't a combination of the ignition switch and a faulty turn signal. Has anyone CORRECTED these problems, as I have read alot of issues that are the same?
  • Same thing just happened today. I bought a 1999 regal new; has 112000 miles on it; my son drives it now. We just spent $500 on a new sending switch so that the gas gauge reads properly.

    Have you figured out what is wrong yet? My son was on the highway and used his signal to change lanes and the car just shut down.
  • Yes I also found a web sight that explains how to fix this problem. I got resistors at radio shack. Very easy fix. Hardest thing to do is to get the instrument cluster out.
  • i've heard replace the turn signal switch
  • al3xal3x Posts: 1
    Whilst installing a custom cd deck, I had to take off the dash panel. During the installation, there may or may not have been a spark but currently neither my air conditioning control deck or the entire instrument panel works (no fuel, odometer, spedometer, rpm, etc...) but the dimmer, blinker lights do work on the dash. All of these things stopped working even after I had finished the deck install. Any ideas? I'm hoping there are some fuses that need to be replaced. Thanks for any ideas.
  • Hi all, I own the Regal's twin, the Century, but there seems to be more activity here than over at the Century forum.

    My Century has some issues that you may know how to resolve. The twin cooling fans will not kick on, I checked the battery because of the low voltage safety feature, had a dead cell in a <2 yr old battery, replaced, but still no fans. I can jump straight off the positive to the white fan on the right side, the second fan will not kick on even with a hot feed.
    See next posting for the rest.
  • The A/C will not engage, the odometer and (PRNDL) will not display, intermittent failure of the "lock" feature on the door and via remote keyless access. is there a relay, ground or inline fuse between the power supply and fuse panel for these lines that I should be looking for?
  • no current on either side of the 10 Amp fuse located at Rox 4 & 5 of Column A on the fuse panel( Crank Signal, Cluster, BCM), same with the fuse located at Row 5&6 of Column A ( Heated Mirror)
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,505
    Try "Ask the community".
  • All the warning lights came on and then the car died. I was able to crank it right away. Took to the garage and nothing was found when they scanned the computer. I did get a much needed tune up and the wheel bearings were replaced. Drove the car yesterday and the same thing happened again. Only this time it wouldn't crank right away. I looked through the posts but didn;t find the answer to this. Please help!!
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    When you say "it wouldn't crank" do you mean when you turn the key the engine would turn over but it wouldn't start or when you hit the key there wasn't any response like the battery was dead?
  • on my 1999 buick sat at the dealership for a whole month..they couldn't figure outwhat was going..bit FINALLY...its running now..they replaced the relay switch ran a lil..then would continue to cut off..then BINGO...they replaced the ignition switch...i have gotten rid of the car needed a trans....hope this helped...and i had the car brand im been thru some of everything with that was my BABY!!!
  • It turned over but wouldn't start. After it sat about 30 minutes it did crank.
  • not sure if u fixxed problem yet but i had the same problem and just fixxed it today. The ignition switch had a short in it and caused car to die when i would turn blinkers on. bought steering colum from wrecking yard{ lot cheaper } and replaced switch and car runs great. not the key cylinder the little black box under key cylinder with all the wires that run under dash.
  • The intake gaskets where replaced about 3yrs ago I put aprox. 50,000mi on it and they r going again. Why? Could it be the dex-cool If so can you flush the system and put green in? I did the whole ignition switch thing, it seems the engine light is always on. Now its throwin a p0128 code- coolant level,thermostat defective, ect sensor. The heat works good,coolant is full. I disconnected the battery light didnt go off. With the coolant full is it at all possible that havin a small leak (about a gal. a month) From the intake gaskets throw a sensor some how?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    If the intake gaskets are leaking on the outside its not that big of a deal. If they are allowing antifreeze to leak internally it could be catastropic. You would think with all the class action law suits against them because of their lame product GM they would learn. However, I guess now with the government take over of GM, law suits are a moot point.
  • YES, get the dex - cool out,flushed at a shop,put the green back in.And Change the coolant temp sensor part #WT3024 @ o'reilly's for $12.99(after the flush).the Dex-cool eat's the gaskets. as for the intake gasket you can try something to seal it, like alimua seal liguid, etc..keep a eye on the level and dont over heat it..I just flushed my dex-cool out of my 2000 regal @ 135,000 miles and replaced the sensor, after the flush it poped the light on and it was the sensor p0128,I replaced it, now it's off, i never had a heat problem, always worked good,and heat guage works correct.Good luck
  • As far as I can tell the coolant is only leaking outside it pools up on the intake around the injectors. Its not getting in the oil. It did the same thing before slow leak at 1st then got worse. Its seems to be leaking in the same spot. Is this a common problem with this car? Could the heads be warped? Can It be tested on the car. By no means am I a master mechanic I just hate paying for [email protected]&% I might be able to do myself. Thanks 4 the response
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Leaking coolant into the oil is bad enough, but leaking coolant into the combustion chambers is even worse. Either way, if left un-check, will cause a catastrophic failure and require a new engine.

    My wife&#146;s car did that and they had to put a new engine in. Fortunately it was still under warranty.

    What happens over time when coolant leaks in the cylinders it causes the wrist pins to bind up which in turn causes the cylinders to egg shape. Other nasty things occur also. The end result equates to new engine.

    I assume by now you flushed out the original GM stuff. I don&#146;t understand why when a car company knows they have a faulty product they still stick with it until they don&#146;t have any more customers or a class action law suit is brought about.

    After they replaced the engine in the wife's car and I wanted to check to see if I had an internal leak of the head gasket I would:

    a)Take a cue tip and tape it to a drinking straw. Make up as many as needed.

    b)After engine has cooled down overnight take out some of the spark plugs, preferably ones that are easy to get to.

    c)Using your cue tip and a flashlight gently swab top of piston being careful not to drop anything in the cylinder. If any metal or gravel get into the cylinders it will cause major damage.

    You have to do this after it sits overnight because even if it is leaking, when the engine has been running, it will burn off any trace of coolant. After it sits overnight any coolant vapor will condense in the cylinder.

    You don&#146;t have to be a master mechanic to be pro-active in your cars well being. White collar, blue collar, it doesn&#146;t matter. Tell Santa you want a few tools and a droplight.

    I know this is a long answer to a short question but you asked.

    Good luck and happy motoring.
  • I recently pulled my Regal into the garage and shut it off. The next day went to start and there was nothing. I replace the battery thinking it may be dead and needed replacing anyways~ still nothing, no lights or any sign of electical activity. Car is deader than a door nail. Anyone have an ideas??? Thanks
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Sounds like it might be a bad ground connection or a bad ground cable. Start with unbolting the cable where it bolts to the block.

    I had a problem with my Buick where the starter wouldn't do anything but I did have lights. Come to find out the chip in the key was bad. Unfortunately, I replaced a good starter at $175. before I discovered the key was bad.

    good luck.
  • After replacing the catalytic converter on my daughter's 2003 Buick Regal, the car would stall whenever the left turn was on. We went to a local dealer and their answer after putting it on the computer was to replace the battery. The problem continued and another dealer finally solved it by finding a shorted wire in the fuse box where all the wire connect. We also had to replace the ignition switch. This all at a cost of approximately $1500.00.
    The original dealer contents that his work on the converter and battery was not a factor in the wire shortage.
    Does anybody out there agree that these issues are not related or am I being fleeced ??
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